• Tired of adverts on RWI? - Subscribe by clicking HERE and PMing Trailboss for instructions and they will magically go away!

Dogwood's Watchmaking Journey

dogwood

I'm Pretty Popular
Patron
Section Moderator
Certified
7/9/21
2,350
5,030
113
Canada
Over the past few months, I've had many (many!) requests to install Deep crystals onto watches. Deep crystals are a nice upgrade if you're into the "invisible" crystal look. However, there have been several reports of watches failing pressure tests after Deep crystals have been installed. I was recently asked to install a Deep crystal on on of the new CF GMTs. The watch failed the pressure test after installing the Deep crystal, so I thought I'd try using a little bit of UV glue around the lip of the crystal to help seal any potential gaps.



This is my first time using UV glue to try to seal a crystal, and maybe I'm not using enough... but I still couldn't get the watch to pass a pressure test even with the UV glue around the edge of the Deep crystal.

I decided to take a look at the lip profiles of both the CF stock and Deep crystals, and noticed that they have very different profiles where they connect to the crystal gasket.



I suspect that I might be using too little UV glue to fill the U-shaped channel in the Deep crystal profile. I also don't have a gen GMT crystal to compare (if anyone does, please post a pic of the profile). I'm also curious if @xingpatrick or @xing_david can comment on the decision to have the sharper profile above rather than the smoother style of the CF crystal?
 

cotti-rottie

Renowned Member
Supporter
Certified
1/4/23
972
3,185
93
uk
really impressed with your set-up, your work and you post some really cool pictures (y)
 
  • Like
Reactions: dogwood

Oascom

Respected Member
DO NOT TRADE WITH ME
Patron
Certified
19/1/16
4,408
5,066
113
Over the past few months, I've had many (many!) requests to install Deep crystals onto watches. Deep crystals are a nice upgrade if you're into the "invisible" crystal look. However, there have been several reports of watches failing pressure tests after Deep crystals have been installed. I was recently asked to install a Deep crystal on on of the new CF GMTs. The watch failed the pressure test after installing the Deep crystal, so I thought I'd try using a little bit of UV glue around the lip of the crystal to help seal any potential gaps.



This is my first time using UV glue to try to seal a crystal, and maybe I'm not using enough... but I still couldn't get the watch to pass a pressure test even with the UV glue around the edge of the Deep crystal.

I decided to take a look at the lip profiles of both the CF stock and Deep crystals, and noticed that they have very different profiles where they connect to the crystal gasket.



I suspect that I might be using too little UV glue to fill the U-shaped channel in the Deep crystal profile. I also don't have a gen GMT crystal to compare (if anyone does, please post a pic of the profile). I'm also curious if @xingpatrick or @xing_david can comment on the decision to have the sharper profile above rather than the smoother style of the CF crystal?
Nice holder;)
 

xing_david

Known Member
Supporting Vendor
14/3/23
198
421
63
California
Over the past few months, I've had many (many!) requests to install Deep crystals onto watches. Deep crystals are a nice upgrade if you're into the "invisible" crystal look. However, there have been several reports of watches failing pressure tests after Deep crystals have been installed. I was recently asked to install a Deep crystal on on of the new CF GMTs. The watch failed the pressure test after installing the Deep crystal, so I thought I'd try using a little bit of UV glue around the lip of the crystal to help seal any potential gaps.



This is my first time using UV glue to try to seal a crystal, and maybe I'm not using enough... but I still couldn't get the watch to pass a pressure test even with the UV glue around the edge of the Deep crystal.

I decided to take a look at the lip profiles of both the CF stock and Deep crystals, and noticed that they have very different profiles where they connect to the crystal gasket.



I suspect that I might be using too little UV glue to fill the U-shaped channel in the Deep crystal profile. I also don't have a gen GMT crystal to compare (if anyone does, please post a pic of the profile). I'm also curious if @xingpatrick or @xing_david can comment on the decision to have the sharper profile above rather than the smoother style of the CF crystal?

I replied to you in messenger earlier but from multiple watchsmiths all DD3285 leak.

They all fail, every one, and glue is the only solution anyone knows of.
 

dogwood

I'm Pretty Popular
Patron
Section Moderator
Certified
7/9/21
2,350
5,030
113
Canada
I replied to you in messenger earlier but from multiple watchsmiths all DD3285 leak.

They all fail, every one, and glue is the only solution anyone knows of.
Thanks David.

I should be clear here… the problem appears to be that the CF DD3285 GMTs aren’t waterproof to start with — almost all of them leak like a sieve. So the issue has nothing to do with the Deep crystal edge profile, and more to do with the Clean factory crystal gasket and retaining ring. I heard from @WatchSmith.US that the Deep crystal edge profile is more gen like than the stock CF crystal.

I’m attempting the install again. This time I’m using. Much thicker bead of UV glue. And, I’m going to let the watch sit for several hours to allow the UV glue to fully cure before I pressure test. The UV glue package I have says that it cures “instantly” after exposure to UV light, but I’m guessing what they mean is that the glue “sets” after exposure to UV light, but it probably takes hours or days to fully cure to full strength.
 

dogwood

I'm Pretty Popular
Patron
Section Moderator
Certified
7/9/21
2,350
5,030
113
Canada
I managed to get the Clean GMT with the deep crystal to pass the 60m pressure test. This time I used a foam q-tip to paint a bead of UV glue into the u-shaped trench of the Deep crystal. I made this bead quite thick — painting only 60 degrees of the perimeter before reloading the foam tip with UV glue and painting the next 60 degrees. Then I seated the crystal in the gasket and rotated the crystal a little bit left and right in the gasket to ensure that the UV glue was touching both the crystal and the gasket all the way around the perimeter. Then I hit the crystal + gasket combo with the UV curing light. Then I placed the crystal + gasket combo on the case and pressed the retaining ring down into place. Then I hit the crystal with the UV light again and left the watch in the sun for several hours to allow the UV glue to fully polymerize and cure. After several hours I pressure tested the watch and it passed at 60m pressure.
 
Last edited:

dogwood

I'm Pretty Popular
Patron
Section Moderator
Certified
7/9/21
2,350
5,030
113
Canada
While working on the CF GMT from the posts above, I had finished the service on the movement, but noticed that the date wheel didn't change cleanly at midnight. I found that the issue was that there was quite a bit of rough friction as the date finger rotated. I had noticed that the date finger was quite tough to remove when I disassembling the movement, so I think that we're dealing with a tolerance issue on the early versions of these Dandong 3285 movements. While everyone is quick to sing the praises of the VS3235 today, keep in mind that when it first came out it did have some issues.

My solution was to use my broaches to open up the hold in the date finger slightly so that it would be more free to rotate. I also decided to open up the hole in the date finger spring, since it was also a little bit stiff.






After broaching I cleaned all the parts and reassembled the date works, and things now snap through nicely at midnight.
 
Last edited:

indy430

Getting To Know The Place
21/12/09
89
220
33
Thanks David.

I should be clear here… the problem appears to be that the CF DD3285 GMTs aren’t waterproof to start with — almost all of them leak like a sieve. So the issue has nothing to do with the Deep crystal edge profile, and more to do with the Clean factory crystal gasket and retaining ring. I heard from @WatchSmith.US that the Deep crystal edge profile is more gen like than the stock CF crystal.

I’m attempting the install again. This time I’m using. Much thicker bead of UV glue. And, I’m going to let the watch sit for several hours to allow the UV glue to fully cure before I pressure test. The UV glue package I have says that it cures “instantly” after exposure to UV light, but I’m guessing what they mean is that the glue “sets” after exposure to UV light, but it probably takes hours or days to fully cure to full strength.
What gasket did you use? Did you use the CF gasket and retaining ring or use a different one?
 

dogwood

I'm Pretty Popular
Patron
Section Moderator
Certified
7/9/21
2,350
5,030
113
Canada
What gasket did you use? Did you use the CF gasket and retaining ring or use a different one?
I used all the stock CF except for the crystal which I replaced with a Deep crystal.
 

zerodreamy

Getting To Know The Place
29/6/23
51
60
18
Canada
Do you know if any of the recent DD3285s have been V2s yet? I have heard from TD that V1 had this water issue and that CF's V2 has supposedly fixed this. Whatever "this" is.
 

dogwood

I'm Pretty Popular
Patron
Section Moderator
Certified
7/9/21
2,350
5,030
113
Canada
Do you know if any of the recent DD3285s have been V2s yet? I have heard from TD that V1 had this water issue and that CF's V2 has supposedly fixed this. Whatever "this" is.
I’m unaware of any updates to the dd3285 movement (eg better tolerances for date finger).

Usually the v1, v2, v3, etc versions we hear about from TDs are aesthetic corrections. Although in the case of the new CF GMTs the v2 allegedly fixed a mechanical issue (the waterproofing). I haven’t pressure tested a CF GMT v2 yet, so I can’t say if they are indeed better now than before.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Gnomon

zerodreamy

Getting To Know The Place
29/6/23
51
60
18
Canada
I’m unaware of any updates to the dd3285 movement (eg better tolerances for date finger).

Usually the v1, v2, v3, etc versions we hear about from TDs are aesthetic corrections. Although in the case of the new CF GMTs the v2 allegedly fixed a mechanical issue (the waterproofing). I haven’t pressure tested a CF GMT v2 yet, so I can’t say if they are indeed better now than before.
Gotcha. Thanks very much, and here's hoping it does fix it.
 

dogwood

I'm Pretty Popular
Patron
Section Moderator
Certified
7/9/21
2,350
5,030
113
Canada
I've been working on a faster technique to improve bracelet feel... I've mentioned this before, but I decided to video the process this time so I could share it here. It's well known that removing the bracelet from your rep and soaking it in mineral oil overnight is a great way to improve the sound and feel of the bracelet. I was thinking about that process and I decided to try to use my watch pressure tester as a way to accelerate the process.

The reason you want to soak the bracelet in mineral oil overnight is to give the oil time to penetrate into all the little spaces between metal parts within the bracelet. However, if you put the bracelet in a ziplock back with some mineral oil, and then submerge it under the water inside a pressure tester, and then increase the pressure, the oil will be forced into the tiny spaces much more quickly than if you let time (read: entropy) do the work for you.

Furthermore if you cycle the pressure up and down a few times you'll find that all the tiny air bubbles in all the tiny spaces of your watch bracelet will eject themselves as oil displaces them during decompression (see the 1 minute mark of the video below for a satisfying display of this).


This seems like it works very well and means I can enjoy my new reps a few hours sooner :)
 

dogwood

I'm Pretty Popular
Patron
Section Moderator
Certified
7/9/21
2,350
5,030
113
Canada
I use the kitchen vacuum sealer... just don't tell my wife 😁
That would be another great hack! being able to pull a vacuum would be another great way to draw the air out of the small spaces and allow the mineral oil to better penetrate into the tiny metal on metal nooks and crannies.
 

dogwood

I'm Pretty Popular
Patron
Section Moderator
Certified
7/9/21
2,350
5,030
113
Canada
A very interesting project crossed my bench this week... The rep community has recently been blessed with two new GMT movements: the SH3285 (based on the VR3235), and the DD3285 (based on the VS3235). I have no qualms stating that the VS3235 is one on the best clone movements I've ever had the pleasure of working on (the other being the Dandong 4130 Daytona movement).

Unfortunately, there is currently no large date plate version of the DD3285... this means that for all the Explorer II lovers out there, there's no DD3285 powered Explorer available. However, there is a large date plate version of the SH3285 which is found in the new GMF v5 Explorer II. So this week I had the pleasure of trying to build a hybrid movement with an SH3285 date plate on top of a DD3285 movement. It turns out that it's possible, but not without a few mods to make things fit together snugly.

So where do we start? Well, we'll start with the GMF v5 and the CF GMT from which we'll be pulling the donor DD3285 movement. The stuff on the left of the photo is the GMF v5 and the SH3285 movement. The stuff on the right is the CF GMT with the DD3285.



Unlike the VR3235 which has a 3135 style dial side, the SH3285 has a 3235 style dial side, so at this stage I was hoping that it would a simple case of part swapping to get the movement I wanted. Looking at both the top and bottom of the date plates, it certainly seems like they're very similar. NB: they both have exactly the same thickness too.



Looking at the movements themselves on the dial side, the SH3285 (left) and the DD3285 (right) do look like they're the same design. But that just means that any differences we run into will be small and potentially hard to find.



At this point it's probably a good idea to name all the parts we're dealing with here:
  • Date plate (green arrow pointing to the different styles of date wheel retention clips... I actually the prefer the style on the SH3285 on the left).
  • Hour wheel (purple arrow)... these appear to be identical between the SH and DD 3285.
  • Hour jumping intermediate wheel (yellow arrow). These are functionally similar, except the DD version has smaller pivots than the SH version. This means that we have to use the SH version of this part in the hybrid since the DD version will flop around in the larger jewel hole of the SH date plate.
  • Date intermediate pinion (red arrow)... these parts appear to be identical between the SH and DD 3285. Nonetheless, I used the SH version of this part in the hybrid.
  • Date plate bridge (cyan arrow)... Due to the larger pivot on the SH Hour jumping intermediate wheel, we need to use the SH version of this part in the hybrid.
Summary: we're using all the SH 3285 date plate parts for our hybrid since the DD versions of some parts have the wrong sized pivots, and swapping jewels doesn't gain us anything.



The first fitment issue we come up against is that the SH date plate has dial foot holes, and eccentric screws to grab the dial feet. Unfortunately the DD movement mainplate doesn't have the necessary clearance for these eccentric screws, so we'll have to remove them. This means we'll have to secure the dial with dial dots or glue, but that's not unexpected in a build like this. These locking screws are easy to push out using a staking set.



The next clearance issue is with the hole in the SH dateplate for the hour hand jumping mechanism. I'm not sure if the spring is larger on the DD movement, or if maybe it's just placed in a slightly different position, but for some reason the dateplate sat high on the arm of the hour jumping spring when I placed it on the DD movement (red arrow).



Also of note, the pivot on the DD hour jumping mechanism is smaller than the version on the SH movement (green arrow). This will mean that there will be a small amount of play in the hour jumping mechanism. I didn't end up replacing the jewel in the SH date plate with one that had a smaller hole because the slop was very minimal and everything functioned properly. But this might be something that's wroth doing if there are issues in the future.

For reference here's the SH dateplate on the SH movement. You can see how the date jumping spring clears the hole in the date plate easily (red arrow). And you can see the larger pivot on the SH version of the hour hand jumping mechanism (green arrow).



My solution to the date plate clearance issue was to simply hold the SH date plate in soft jaws of my vise, and use a file to open the hole up slightly. When I was done with the file I used some 1000 grit sand paper to remove any burrs that the file might have left. And obviously I washed the date plate to remove any debris from the process before every test fitting.



Here's what the SH dateplate looked like after the hole was opened:



With the additional space for the hour hand jumping mechanism in the SH date plate, everything fit together nicely.



I secured everything down and made sure that the teeth on all the wheels and pinions where meshing nicely.



One final modification that was necessary was that the dial feet on the GMF v5 dial needed to be trimmed down by about 1mm in order to not protrude through the SH date plate so far that they hit the DD mainplate.

The final test was to glue the dial into place and press on the hands to ensure everything fits together properly... and it does...



There have been rumors of a DD3285 with a large date plate that we might see in a Clean Factory Explorer II... but for anybody interested in a DD3285 powered Explorer II today, there is a solution -- albeit a hybrid where you need a donor movement from a CF GMT.
 
Last edited:

wilsonpepper

All of Them !
Patron
Certified
19/8/21
96
43
18
Hawaii
A very interesting project crossed my bench this week... The rep community has recently been blessed with two new GMT movements: the SH3285 (based on the VR3235), and the DD3285 (based on the VS3235). I have no qualms stating that the VS3235 is one on the best clone movements I've ever had the pleasure of working on (the other being the Dandong 4130 Daytona movement).

Unfortunately, there is currently no large date plate version of the DD3285... this means that for all the Explorer II lovers out there, there's no DD3285 powered Explorer available. However, there is a large date plate version of the SH3285 which is found in the new GMF v5 Explorer II. So this week I had the pleasure of trying to build a hybrid movement with an SH3285 date plate on top of a DD3285 movement. It turns out that it's possible, but not without a few mods to make things fit together snugly.

So where do we start? Well, we'll start with the GMF v5 and the CF GMT from which we'll be pulling the donor DD3285 movement. The stuff on the left of the photo is the GMF v5 and the SH3285 movement. The stuff on the right is the CF GMT with the DD3285.



Unlike the VR3235 which has a 3135 style dial side, the SH3285 has a 3235 style dial side, so at this stage I was hoping that it would a simple case of part swapping to get the movement I wanted. Looking at both the top and bottom of the date plates, it certainly seems like they're very similar. NB: they both have exactly the same thickness too.



Looking at the movements themselves on the dial side, the SH3285 (left) and the DD3285 (right) do look like they're the same design. But that just means that any differences we run into will be small and potentially hard to find.



At this point it's probably a good idea to name all the parts we're dealing with here:
  • Date plate (green arrow pointing to the different styles of date wheel retention clips... I actually the prefer the style on the SH3285 on the left).
  • Hour wheel (purple arrow)... these appear to be identical between the SH and DD 3285.
  • Hour jumping intermediate wheel (yellow arrow). These are functionally similar, except the DD version has smaller pivots than the SH version. This means that we have to use the SH version of this part in the hybrid since the DD version will flop around in the larger jewel hole of the SH date plate.
  • Date intermediate pinion (red arrow)... these parts appear to be identical between the SH and DD 3285. Nonetheless, I used the SH version of this part in the hybrid.
  • Date plate bridge (cyan arrow)... Due to the larger pivot on the SH Hour jumping intermediate wheel, we need to use the SH version of this part in the hybrid.
Summary: we're using all the SH 3285 date plate parts for our hybrid since the DD versions of some parts have the wrong sized pivots, and swapping jewels doesn't gain us anything.



The first fitment issue we come up against is that the SH date plate has dial foot holes, and eccentric screws to grab the dial feet. Unfortunately the DD movement mainplate doesn't have the necessary clearance for these eccentric screws, so we'll have to remove them. This means we'll have to secure the dial with dial dots or glue, but that's not unexpected in a build like this. These locking screws are easy to push out using a staking set.



The next clearance issue is with the hole in the SH dateplate for the hour hand jumping mechanism. I'm not sure if the spring is larger on the DD movement, or if maybe it's just placed in a slightly different position, but for some reason the dateplate sat high on the arm of the hour jumping spring when I placed it on the DD movement (red arrow).



Also of note, the pivot on the DD hour jumping mechanism is smaller than the version on the SH movement (green arrow). This will mean that there will be a small amount of play in the hour jumping mechanism. I didn't end up replacing the jewel in the SH date plate with one that had a smaller hole because the slop was very minimal and everything functioned properly. But this might be something that's wroth doing if there are issues in the future.

For reference here's the SH dateplate on the SH movement. You can see how the date jumping spring clears the hole in the date plate easily (red arrow). And you can see the larger pivot on the SH version of the hour hand jumping mechanism (green arrow).



My solution to the date plate clearance issue was to simply hold the SH date plate in soft jaws of my vise, and use a file to open the hole up slightly. When I was done with the file I used some 1000 grit sand paper to remove any burrs that the file might have left. And obviously I washed the date plate to remove any debris from the process before every test fitting.



Here's what the SH dateplate looked like after the hole was opened:



With the additional space for the hour hand jumping mechanism in the SH date plate, everything fit together nicely.



I secured everything down and made sure that the teeth on all the wheels and pinions where meshing nicely.



One final modification that was necessary was that the dial feet on the GMF v5 dial needed to be trimmed down by about 1mm in order to not protrude through the SH date plate so far that they hit the DD mainplate.

The final test was to glue the dial into place and press on the hands to ensure everything fits together properly... and it does...



There have been rumors of a DD3285 with a large date plate that we might see in a Clean Factory Explorer II... but for anybody interested in a DD3285 powered Explorer II today, there is a solution -- albeit a hybrid where you need a donor movement from a CF GMT.
Fantastic build and great report !
 
  • Like
Reactions: dogwood

Timmer

Known Member
Patron
Certified
17/1/22
137
104
43
Just catching-up on the "Journey" thread and noticed the template you use to accurately position a new crystal (post #121 above) in a case - is this something you created, or is it something that can be purchased? Also, what would you recommend as a template for positioning a new crystal on a case without any rehaut engraving? I've done a few to date, but just relied on "eyeballing" the cyclops in the right orientation...
 

dogwood

I'm Pretty Popular
Patron
Section Moderator
Certified
7/9/21
2,350
5,030
113
Canada
Just catching-up on the "Journey" thread and noticed the template you use to accurately position a new crystal (post #121 above) in a case - is this something you created, or is it something that can be purchased? Also, what would you recommend as a template for positioning a new crystal on a case without any rehaut engraving? I've done a few to date, but just relied on "eyeballing" the cyclops in the right orientation...
The template is part of a set of dies that @Oascom makes. I highly recommend it — it makes crystal installs a breeze.
 
Last edited:

j2k

Getting To Know The Place
9/2/23
99
42
18
Canada
A very interesting project crossed my bench this week... The rep community has recently been blessed with two new GMT movements: the SH3285 (based on the VR3235), and the DD3285 (based on the VS3235). I have no qualms stating that the VS3235 is one on the best clone movements I've ever had the pleasure of working on (the other being the Dandong 4130 Daytona movement).

Unfortunately, there is currently no large date plate version of the DD3285... this means that for all the Explorer II lovers out there, there's no DD3285 powered Explorer available. However, there is a large date plate version of the SH3285 which is found in the new GMF v5 Explorer II. So this week I had the pleasure of trying to build a hybrid movement with an SH3285 date plate on top of a DD3285 movement. It turns out that it's possible, but not without a few mods to make things fit together snugly.

So where do we start? Well, we'll start with the GMF v5 and the CF GMT from which we'll be pulling the donor DD3285 movement. The stuff on the left of the photo is the GMF v5 and the SH3285 movement. The stuff on the right is the CF GMT with the DD3285.



Unlike the VR3235 which has a 3135 style dial side, the SH3285 has a 3235 style dial side, so at this stage I was hoping that it would a simple case of part swapping to get the movement I wanted. Looking at both the top and bottom of the date plates, it certainly seems like they're very similar. NB: they both have exactly the same thickness too.



Looking at the movements themselves on the dial side, the SH3285 (left) and the DD3285 (right) do look like they're the same design. But that just means that any differences we run into will be small and potentially hard to find.



At this point it's probably a good idea to name all the parts we're dealing with here:
  • Date plate (green arrow pointing to the different styles of date wheel retention clips... I actually the prefer the style on the SH3285 on the left).
  • Hour wheel (purple arrow)... these appear to be identical between the SH and DD 3285.
  • Hour jumping intermediate wheel (yellow arrow). These are functionally similar, except the DD version has smaller pivots than the SH version. This means that we have to use the SH version of this part in the hybrid since the DD version will flop around in the larger jewel hole of the SH date plate.
  • Date intermediate pinion (red arrow)... these parts appear to be identical between the SH and DD 3285. Nonetheless, I used the SH version of this part in the hybrid.
  • Date plate bridge (cyan arrow)... Due to the larger pivot on the SH Hour jumping intermediate wheel, we need to use the SH version of this part in the hybrid.
Summary: we're using all the SH 3285 date plate parts for our hybrid since the DD versions of some parts have the wrong sized pivots, and swapping jewels doesn't gain us anything.



The first fitment issue we come up against is that the SH date plate has dial foot holes, and eccentric screws to grab the dial feet. Unfortunately the DD movement mainplate doesn't have the necessary clearance for these eccentric screws, so we'll have to remove them. This means we'll have to secure the dial with dial dots or glue, but that's not unexpected in a build like this. These locking screws are easy to push out using a staking set.



The next clearance issue is with the hole in the SH dateplate for the hour hand jumping mechanism. I'm not sure if the spring is larger on the DD movement, or if maybe it's just placed in a slightly different position, but for some reason the dateplate sat high on the arm of the hour jumping spring when I placed it on the DD movement (red arrow).



Also of note, the pivot on the DD hour jumping mechanism is smaller than the version on the SH movement (green arrow). This will mean that there will be a small amount of play in the hour jumping mechanism. I didn't end up replacing the jewel in the SH date plate with one that had a smaller hole because the slop was very minimal and everything functioned properly. But this might be something that's wroth doing if there are issues in the future.

For reference here's the SH dateplate on the SH movement. You can see how the date jumping spring clears the hole in the date plate easily (red arrow). And you can see the larger pivot on the SH version of the hour hand jumping mechanism (green arrow).



My solution to the date plate clearance issue was to simply hold the SH date plate in soft jaws of my vise, and use a file to open the hole up slightly. When I was done with the file I used some 1000 grit sand paper to remove any burrs that the file might have left. And obviously I washed the date plate to remove any debris from the process before every test fitting.



Here's what the SH dateplate looked like after the hole was opened:



With the additional space for the hour hand jumping mechanism in the SH date plate, everything fit together nicely.



I secured everything down and made sure that the teeth on all the wheels and pinions where meshing nicely.



One final modification that was necessary was that the dial feet on the GMF v5 dial needed to be trimmed down by about 1mm in order to not protrude through the SH date plate so far that they hit the DD mainplate.

The final test was to glue the dial into place and press on the hands to ensure everything fits together properly... and it does...



There have been rumors of a DD3285 with a large date plate that we might see in a Clean Factory Explorer II... but for anybody interested in a DD3285 powered Explorer II today, there is a solution -- albeit a hybrid where you need a donor movement from a CF GMT.
Insane work again P. I always admire your intricate work!
Do you know if you are able to remove the ghost date from the vsf op 36, in a similar fashion? Been wanting a tiffany op 36 for a while now, but the ghost date is really a deal breaker for me.
 
  • Like
Reactions: dogwood