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Decal printed dial
- Thread starter Bart Cordell
- Start date
Probably made it worse, but I switched from the Milk v1 to a Milk v2 since the dimensions are so much better (I love the v1 sharp edges, but I didn't want to reshape a case when I was on the final step of a build.Very, very minor update... I reshaped a dental cleaning tool to apply paint and get rid of the unsightly scratch I accidentally put in the center of the dial, installed a sweep hand, new crystal, barely reshaped a few edges of the Milk V1.0 case with those amazingly fat crown guards (need the correct crown in place to finalize), just barely aged the bezel, and I'm thankful for the progress!
All she needs is a proper length stem, a case back gasket, and some sort of band.
And finally, an adjusted picture to show the what the actual colors and contrast look like in person...[url=https://clickpix.org/image/FE22366E-BA8F-4F43-89F6-A7943AB2E64F.hL5CTv]
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I also weathered the insert a lot more and installed a gasket so it's actually waterproof.
I'm pretty happy with the results, but I'm also disappointed that I have 2-3 better dials I could've used.
Let me know your thoughts.
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Personally, I can think of two others that are a little more glossy and look nicer, but that's my opinion and it doesn't count. On the wrist without phone zoom It's you who has to face reality and your taste that counts.Probably made it worse, but I switched from the Milk v1 to a Milk v2 since the dimensions are so much better (I love the v1 sharp edges, but I didn't want to reshape a case when I was on the final step of a build.
I also weathered the insert a lot more and installed a gasket so it's actually waterproof.
I'm pretty happy with the results, but I'm also disappointed that I have 2-3 better dials I could've used.
Let me know your thoughts.
I thought I was the only one who had this strange idea, but no
.I did try them today and it's actually not bad. I'm still struggling with the texture and when it's going to dry but I think that's the key to success.
Had an attempt at a 'radium damaged' 6205 gilt dial'
Just waiting on some pencil hands from Raffles
Just waiting on some pencil hands from Raffles
That's awesome! Did you use the new lume kit and nail dot tools to get the lume a nice and round puffy shape? Looks great, and I'm loving the shape too.Had an attempt at a 'radium damaged' 6205 gilt dial'
Just waiting on some pencil hands from Raffles
Bravo, nice dial and well done for the lumeHad an attempt at a 'radium damaged' 6205 gilt dial'
Just waiting on some pencil hands from Raffles
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Yep, I got myself some nail brushes and those nail-dotting things after reading about them on here. Best $5 I've ever spent. Definitely improved my luming.
Do you find those better than the standard luming pins?The dotting pen doo-dads
Looks like you got used to the doo-dads pretty fast! I forgot to ask... If you don't mind sharing, what did you use for your lume and "varnish?"
I was using oiling needles before, but I found the dotting pens were better for the dots and the fine nail brushes better for the batons and triangle marker. Could never quite get the point on the triangle sharp with oilers, or to stay inside the line. With a decent and sharp white base to the markers you can dilute the lume paste more and build up several lighter even coats.
I was using Kilabitzzz lume powder from ebay, but that ran out, so I bought a random cheap $5 vial and used it with the Kilabitzzz binder.
When polishing out the clear lacquer before with 3000 grit, I thought I'd try cutting compound liquid to get a finer finish. It reacted with the Rustoluem clearcoat and the varnish became matt and started softening up and became tacky. Not what I wanted as it pretty much ruined what I was trying to do. I thought I could use that mistake to patina a radium burn to the finish. (the finish re-cures after a while and doesnt stay tacky)
I put some cutting compound liquid onto one of the larger nail brushes from the kit and stippled it over the dial trying to get a decent texture.
The compound also leaves a dusty residue when it dries, and you can brush off as desired.
I was using Kilabitzzz lume powder from ebay, but that ran out, so I bought a random cheap $5 vial and used it with the Kilabitzzz binder.
When polishing out the clear lacquer before with 3000 grit, I thought I'd try cutting compound liquid to get a finer finish. It reacted with the Rustoluem clearcoat and the varnish became matt and started softening up and became tacky. Not what I wanted as it pretty much ruined what I was trying to do. I thought I could use that mistake to patina a radium burn to the finish. (the finish re-cures after a while and doesnt stay tacky)
I put some cutting compound liquid onto one of the larger nail brushes from the kit and stippled it over the dial trying to get a decent texture.
The compound also leaves a dusty residue when it dries, and you can brush off as desired.
Great results. Sometimes it just happens, and you have another trick in the arsenal. Some of my favorite lume powder for vintage stuff was something like $3-$7 for a huge bag of (strontium aluminate?) on EBay; I can relate to cheap products outperforming expectations!
Also sounds like your cutting compound is the good stuff that turns rubber into cardboard.
A couple more questions before I quit bothering you though:
1) Did you do a white base coat first on the lume plots?
2) Is the binder waterbased?
I've used everything from acrylic paint, matt medium, uv glue, lacquer, and whatever binder costs more than gold from the Super-LumiNova folks. I love to hear what others use when I see great results like yours.
The binder looks/smells and has the consistancy of wood glue/Elmer's.
The white base I used was some waterbased Vinyl Silk wall paint I had in the garage.
Thanks to @aphmars13 and @janneau , I decided to switch out my dial to a glossier one, and test the nail brushes for a slightly more uniform texture (but still leaving it pretty crappy). Just wanted to add some more shades without ruining the lume.
