Building a 5513 - Tutorial

[Hec]

I'd like to know how you got that effect on the dial @369mafia very nice.

I imagine using different varnishes, but of course I don't know exactly how...

I've thought about using pigments to get that aged look, I don't know if it's a good idea... and what did you use to paint the markers?

I'm waiting for the m4 x 0,35 so I can continue my 6538 ... project in which I spend many hours thinking, looking at pictures ... comparing different dials to try to "get as close" as possible ...

 

[369mafia]

@369mafia
how would you compare the build experience of using Raffles parts vs a JKF base?
The Raffles dial being bigger, does that affect the watch proportions? or is the extra diameter "hidden" ?

I was thinking of using a 5513 dial from Raffles in a JKF case, but shaving 1.5mm on the perimeter looks like it would eat into the markers

I have not worked on a JKF based sub yet , I believe one member is sending a few my way so I would be able to give you a more hands on experience once I have done my thang. however the raffles dials are 29mm so machining the edge down that much would take quite a bit . Arent the jkf dials more gen size at 26-27mm? dial surface?
1 to fit the dial seat in the case
2 not disturb the print on the dial surface.
3. need to possibly enlarge rehaut

I recently did this to a dial to fit into a case and it did damage the dial surface around the center hole. I mounted it to Dremel shaft bit designed for holding cutting wheels and then ran it on low against some sand paper. went smoothly , pushed a bit too much then the dial spun on the shaft marking the dial only noticeable up close but mostly hid by the hand stack. so not the end of the world but not ideal will be more mindful and careful next time.

mochacha and yuki offer decent dials in those sizes for fair prices , but then again you might just nail it with the 35 dollar raffles dial. he who dares, wins!!

 

[369mafia]

I'd like to know how you got that effect on the dial @369mafia very nice.

I imagine using different varnishes, but of course I don't know exactly how...

I've thought about using pigments to get that aged look, I don't know if it's a good idea... and what did you use to paint the markers?

I'm waiting for the m4 x 0,35 so I can continue my 6538 ... project in which I spend many hours thinking, looking at pictures ... comparing different dials to try to "get as close" as possible ...

its like the 11 secret herbs and spices at KFC...its a secret lol

it really depends on the look you are after Ive done water damaged dials in a few ways and its all on how much damage you want.

however on this specific 5513 I used a very diluted water based paint in black and applied with a brush , then took a tooth brush dabbed it in the same solution and flicked it at the dial surface to create an organic spray effect on the dial that create water spots on the dial when It dries. Its not so much what I use but the techniques ive developed. Anybody can splash paint on a surface, but I happen to have a knack for it. its all in the wrist lol

building watches is alot of work and time consuming. I just just start modding parts for watches and start offering them to the community. .. aged dials, matching hand sets and faded tropical inserts.

 

[Singapore9]

Is the JKF a 26mm GEN-spec dial size? I had it in my head they were a bit bigger, maybe the 26.5mm of a 1680?

 

[Karbon74]

I never measured it myself, but I think I read somewhere they are 26mm

next time I will

 

[Karbon74]

its like the 11 secret herbs and spices at KFC...its a secret lol

it really depends on the look you are after Ive done water damaged dials in a few ways and its all on how much damage you want.

however on this specific 5513 I used a very diluted water based paint in black and applied with a brush , then took a tooth brush dabbed it in the same solution and flicked it at the dial surface to create an organic spray effect on the dial that create water spots on the dial when It dries. Its not so much what I use but the techniques ive developed. Anybody can splash paint on a surface, but I happen to have a knack for it. its all in the wrist lol

building watches is alot of work and time consuming. I just just start modding parts for watches and start offering them to the community. .. aged dials, matching hand sets and faded tropical inserts.

You make a great point.
Given exactly the same ingredients, a veteran chef will turn out a very different dish than a newbie.

Add to that, the chef will have better equipment and experience using them

 

[buslor66]

A quick question guys...

I recently received the 5513 from Marvellous Replica and upon questioning the movement designation (A2836-2); to which he confirmed to me it was...now

Once i have all the items to begin my mod of the piece, can anyone tell me categorically what the stem is? - Is it the square or helical (twisted) stem type?. I need to get this right because i don't want to make purchases in advance if it's wrong.

I was informed by @Megahz1 that now i've purchased the Athaya 702 crown and tube, i might have to purchase a new stem as it 'MAY' be possible it's the wrong size i already have as standard.

I've made a basket on CousinsUK for items but i need to know about the stem type the Marvellous JKF a2836-2 (allegedly) the movement has.

Any info would be greatly appreciated!

 

[Yellowsubmarine]

I believe this stem from cousins should work for you - ETA28012401G.

 

[Karbon74]

I never even thought that ETA 2836/24 stems had different types

 

[buslor66]

@Yellowsubmarine - Right thanks for that . I had that one in my basket anyway.

I did message Marvellous but he hasn't responded yet about confirming the stem type, but nevertheless, if i'm not mistaken, i read that the helical ones (twisted) were mostly used on previous cals of movement; even the a2836 and a2836-1 had them - but i read that the a2836-2 moved to mainly the square type.

I can place the order now anyway and given the length too of 20mm, there's more than enough to accommodate the Athaya crown and tube mod.

I'll place the order and see how things go! - Thanks a million friend
P.S. I'll be doing a little tutorial as @Megahz1 did; not as in depth but just to show my progress and what i've done with end result images.

Looking forward to it

 

[buslor66]

I never even thought that ETA 2836/24 stems had different types

Never did i till i viewed the parts catalogue - I think it was for specific cals though...but not entirely sure myself.

 

[Singapore9]

If the JKF does take a 26.0mm dial... I wonder how much stem offset it could take? Could make a nice, cheap case for a Tudor Snowflake replica as the 2836 has a 2.25mm stem height and the (Tudor or other) ETA 2784 has a 2.00mm steam height, which is actually closer to a 2824 (1.80mm)... hmmm... how much stem offset is too much? Could use a 0.25mm spacer, I guess, but would the hand height still be ok?

 

[buslor66]

If the JKF does take a 26.0mm dial... I wonder how much stem offset it could take? Could make a nice, cheap case for a Tudor Snowflake replica as the 2836 has a 2.25mm stem height and the (Tudor or other) ETA 2784 has a 2.00mm steam height, which is actually closer to a 2824 (1.80mm)... hmmm... how much stem offset is too much? Could use a 0.25mm spacer, I guess, but would the hand height still be ok?

I can tell you categorically that the JKF takes the exact 26mm dial size as genuine - One of the great aspects to the JKF case i think. ``i certainly will be finding out in time anyway

 

[Singapore9]

I can tell you categorically that the JKF takes the exact 26mm dial size as genuine - One of the great aspects to the JKF case i think. ``i certainly will be finding out in time anyway

I shall look forward to the build thread then!

To be fair, if I was junking most of the JKF; probably just easier to start with a Milk case!

I have GEN dials, hands, crystals, crowns, tube, bezel, inserts, bracelet, etc. going spare - just need to pull my finger out on a case!

 

[Karbon74]

yeah, milk case seems better in your situation

 

[Megahz1]

@buslor66 just to be clear I meant that the stem that comes in the jkf could be too short, not different. That’s why there is a possibility that you would need a new stem.

 

[Karbon74]

@buslor66 just to be clear I meant that the stem that comes in the jkf could be too short, not different. That’s why there is a possibility that you would need a new stem.

@Megahz1 you almost gave me sleepless nights dreaming of hexagonal stems

 

[Megahz1]

@Singapore9 you could do it with a spacer but the the date would be sunk. Additionally you need to buy higher hour wheel, pinion wheel and seconds wheel. I do not know how easy it would be to source all of that. At that point you either swap movement (I used an eta 2873) or opt for another case. I personally would go with either Bivintage or phong.

 

[Singapore9]

@Singapore9 you could do it with a spacer but the the date would be sunk. Additionally you need to buy higher hour wheel, pinion wheel and seconds wheel. I do not know how easy it would be to source all of that. At that point you either swap movement (I used an eta 2873) or opt for another case. I personally would go with either Bivintage or phong.

Yeah, good shout on the date or go with a 2484/2452 (1.85mm stem height) and go with a 7021 REP! The reports of the BiVintage bezel issues are offputting... but all cases seem to have issues e.g. Milk crystal fitting.

 

[Megahz1]

@Singapore9 yeah honestly milk’s case is a no go for me as the rehaut does not allow for a tight seal iirc. Another alternative for the movement is to convert a 2824 into low beat (I think I’ll do a tutorial in the near future). Oh and finally you should consider case back engravings!