Currently building a 9411. I just need to sort out the case back and I am done! Will post pictures asap!
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Building a 5513 - Tutorial
- Thread starter Megahz1
- Start date
Currently working on a 5513 based on a milk case.. I’m still looking to replace the plexiglass, insert and possibly crown.. also have new 580 end links on the way..
Annoyingly the flatter sternkreuz 305.451 is a bit too wide which means you need to sand the inner diameter of the insert to fit..
Annoyingly the flatter sternkreuz 305.451 is a bit too wide which means you need to sand the inner diameter of the insert to fit..
I have an idea for a 5512 - but have to save money. Does anyone know a source for the JKF case only? I don't need the dial, bracelet an movement. That would save some money.
Not sure you’ll be able to get hold of a JKF case on its own, you could always reach out to marv and ask, or keep an eye on m2m..
Failing that, the milk case or bivintage case would be your cheapest options. Unless you want to use a raffles case..
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Build thread please!Currently building a 9411. I just need to sort out the case back and I am done! Will post pictures asap!
"Does anyone know a source for the JKF case only?"
I do not know where to find JKF cases now, but I have one from a few years back and it is pretty good (accepts oem spec crystal etc.) except for one thing:
On mine, the spring bar holes are too close to the tops of the lugs, and one is almost into the bevel (all the bevels are fairly shallow). Many cases are made this way, not just JKF.
When looking at a case for sale, I always check this because if the lug holes are to be bored out to 1.25mm or 1.30mm for oem spec spring bars, you can get in a mess if the holes are too high or low to begin with.
Back in time...
Otoh, all five of my MBK cases have holes in the correct location and look fine after boring the holes out for oem spec spring bars.
About 15 years ago, I bought about ten DW (David Wong) 5512/5513/1680 cases (low prices back then compared to now) and only one case had one spring bar hole too high. Not too bad considering the price.
Before I bought the DW cases, I bought some 5512/5513/1680 watches from an internet guy called 'Paul' (Abay.com back then) and the cases had oem spec case necks (accepted oem crystals) and oem spec case tube threads with properly located lug holes. The cases were a little bit out of spec because they had 'spring wire' bezels, all were made for 26.5mm dials, and the case back gasket groove was cut in the case instead of in the case back, but it did not show. Still have a '5514' from back then and they came with oem spec helium valves.
The lug hole placement defect is small to many and easily ignored, but it bothers me because it takes away from the overall appearance of a watch.
Btw...this same problem is present in many cases used for '1016' projects and they have thinner lugs making it harder to bore the holes properly.
Lug holes too high or low makes them look 'over polished'.
All imho.
I do not know where to find JKF cases now, but I have one from a few years back and it is pretty good (accepts oem spec crystal etc.) except for one thing:
On mine, the spring bar holes are too close to the tops of the lugs, and one is almost into the bevel (all the bevels are fairly shallow). Many cases are made this way, not just JKF.
When looking at a case for sale, I always check this because if the lug holes are to be bored out to 1.25mm or 1.30mm for oem spec spring bars, you can get in a mess if the holes are too high or low to begin with.
Back in time...
Otoh, all five of my MBK cases have holes in the correct location and look fine after boring the holes out for oem spec spring bars.
About 15 years ago, I bought about ten DW (David Wong) 5512/5513/1680 cases (low prices back then compared to now) and only one case had one spring bar hole too high. Not too bad considering the price.
Before I bought the DW cases, I bought some 5512/5513/1680 watches from an internet guy called 'Paul' (Abay.com back then) and the cases had oem spec case necks (accepted oem crystals) and oem spec case tube threads with properly located lug holes. The cases were a little bit out of spec because they had 'spring wire' bezels, all were made for 26.5mm dials, and the case back gasket groove was cut in the case instead of in the case back, but it did not show. Still have a '5514' from back then and they came with oem spec helium valves.
The lug hole placement defect is small to many and easily ignored, but it bothers me because it takes away from the overall appearance of a watch.
Btw...this same problem is present in many cases used for '1016' projects and they have thinner lugs making it harder to bore the holes properly.
Lug holes too high or low makes them look 'over polished'.
All imho.
I ran into similar issues with my milk 5513 build, mine was slightly different as I used the more domed Sternkreuz t19 crystal (303OD vs 305OD) I did have the same issue though of the insert binding on the crystal.Currently working on a 5513 based on a milk case.. I’m still looking to replace the plexiglass, insert and possibly crown.. also have new 580 end links on the way..
Annoyingly the flatter sternkreuz 305.451 is a bit too wide which means you need to sand the inner diameter of the insert to fit..
To address this I removed some material from the outer edge of the crystal, I did this by slowly walking the crystal around the flap wheel the tool was set at a very low rpm to give a bit more control and manage the heat
I used some heatproof tape on the lower half to maintain the OD for the retaining ring
I kept testing the fit throughout once I was happy I sanded the entire side of the crystal with various grades of wet and dry paper and finished with some polywatch
Thanks for the hint. I asked marvellous replica for the offer. But currently (and in the feature) he do hot have a 2813 movement, so the cheapes watch ist 170US + 45 US (shippment) = 215US - Still a lot of money!
- 8/8/20
- 2,076
- 3,208
- 113
if you need just case You can still sell some leftovers, bracelet, dial hands etc
Hello, I'm sure this question has already been asked. But I would like to know about a 5513 milk base. How did you proceed with the glass? For me by placing the bezel with the insert and the spring ring. The glass doesn't attach to the case. I guess I have to glue the glass. Not sure...
I found.
A touch of patina - Rolex 5513 & Tudor Snowflake 9401
Down the rabbit hole I went again :) The first replica watch that brought me to RWI was a 9411, it didn't have much character so it was a catch & release - but that got me into building my own watches! I wanted to revisit the idea of a Snowflake, the clean lines of a no date version this time...
forum.replica-watch.info
work in progress.
Now, two super wierd things.
1. the hands are not oxidizing
2. the bezel assembly is wierd
see next post
That looks like the retaining ring is still in place with the bezel ? Maybe ? And the spring washer/spacer sandwiched in the middle too..
My jkf 5513 was much harder to separate than the jkf 1680.
Really give it a good press with the thumbs.
Can you take the same picture from underneath to confirm ?
My jkf 5513 was much harder to separate than the jkf 1680.
Really give it a good press with the thumbs.
Can you take the same picture from underneath to confirm ?
Yeah the retaining ring is still attached with the bezel.
I nearly gave up with mine but it did come apart in the end.
I nearly gave up with mine but it did come apart in the end.
