BP Re-Releases 5-Digit Submariners with VR3135

[muiramas]

You are correct. But still better than the very big and visible LEC on the BP crystal

But for a 5-digit the clean crystal works better than on a 6-digit

BP LEC is actually one of the better ones. I can’t see the one on mine without a loupe. Sorry, but a Clean xtal is a downgrade on pretty much everything outside of Ali.

 

[Nur-Uhr]

BP LEC is actually one of the better ones. I can’t see the one on mine without a loupe. Sorry, but a Clean xtal is a downgrade on pretty much everything outside of Ali.

OK. On the one 16618 from BP I had, it was absolute visible.
Also the two other BP (1x 16610 and 1x 16613) was the LEC sooo visible and big that it was an abolute tell.

I can only speak for these 3x I have seen. And for these also my mentioned "alternatives" are all better (inlc. the Clean )

But as we know, BP is using different parts for their batches. So it seems that the crystal is now better.

 

[KJ2020]

One more Problem one of you may be able to solve. I installed gen hands, Hour and second hand caused
No Problem, but when I have installed the second hand the movement stops. As soon as I take it off the movement starts running again. Any idea ? @KJ2020 ?

So we know the gear train is being halted by a blockage when the second hand is installed. First the obvious things:

Is the second wheel pinion centered in the canon (minute) pinion? Bent second wheel pinion?

Are you installing the hand onto the pinion and not wedging the hand collar alongside it?

Is the gen hand collar large enough in diameter to scape along the inside of the minute pinion wall?

If none of those is the issue, try reinstalling the stock BP second hand and see what the result is.

Next considerations would be:
If you are having to press the second hand down really hard to get it installed, you may be dislodging or binding the second wheel gears with the third wheel gears in the gear train. It's also possible to break (separate) the second wheel gears from the pinion shaft by pressing a hand too firmly.

If the gears are dislodged, it's possible for them to be re-engaged while the hands remain installed. This would require the train bridge to be removed. Make sure to let the power down first or the gears (and the hands) will fly freely and rapidly and can be easily damaged if there is still power in the mainspring.

Another thing to check is the jewel for the second wheel in the train bridge. It may have gotten chipped or cracked during a hard press. Both sides of the jewel should be inspected so again the train bridge needs to come off.

 

[Dizzy]

BP LEC is actually one of the better ones. I can’t see the one on mine without a loupe. Sorry, but a Clean xtal is a downgrade on pretty much everything outside of Ali.

Couldn’t even see the LEC on my 16618 From BP. They definitely must have different batches of parts. The crystal wasn’t very good though. I swapped on a single side AR Clark’s. Much better.

 

[johnchpark]

Put in an order for a Deep 40mm Sub crystal. $50 vs $49 for Clark's (Shipping is like $25 to Korea).

Are ppl using the stock BP crystal gasket (2.7mm) or upping to 3.0mm?

 

[Dizzy]

Put in an order for a Deep 40mm Sub crystal. $50 vs $49 for Clark's (Shipping is like $25 to Korea).

Are ppl using the stock BP crystal gasket (2.7mm) or upping to 3.0mm?

If you get one of the new case versions then yes you want to go to a 3.0mm gasket as discussed before. I unfortunately got an old BP and it’s got the wire held on bezel and the 0.8mm tall gasket. I’m going to order a 1.5mm tall gasket and try that on mine.

 

[flashu]

So basically I was about to open the caseback of my second LN received, wanted to check the mvt VR or not
Anyway, caseback got stuck and cannot go more to open, it is open but not quite ))

 

[KJ2020]

So basically I was about to open the caseback of my second LN received, wanted to check the mvt VR or not
Anyway, caseback got stuck and cannot go more to open, it is open but not quite ))

I've had a couple of casebacks like this over the years bro. Sometimes they can get cross-threaded so you can re-tighten and loosen, rinse and repeat.

But both of mine had machining flaws (burrs) inside the thread grooves. One I was able to force off with extreme effort using the usual lever handle pro type removal tool. Putting the case in a caseback holder is a big help, then the caseback holder can be bench mounted or held in a vise. With extraordinary force it would move about 1mm so I kept at it and finally it came off.

The other one wouldn't budge in that manner no matter what. So I had to epoxy a socket to it. The longer leverage of the strong thick wrench handle did the job with little effort. I used a quite generous glob of JB Weld epoxy. You have to soak it in acetone to release it and clean it up. Acetone evaporates quickly so it has to sealed in a ziplock bag overnight or a couple days.

Once off, the threads can be grinded free of burrs nicely with the sharp prongs of a stout springbar tool. It can be slightly tedious but its safer than a dremel cutting blade if you're not surgically handy with tools.

 

[flashu]

I've had a couple of casebacks like this over the years bro. Sometimes they can get cross-threaded so you can re-tighten and loosen, rinse and repeat.

But both of mine had machining flaws (burrs) inside the thread grooves. One I was able to force off with extreme effort using the usual lever handle pro type removal tool. Putting the case in a caseback holder is a big help, then the caseback holder can be bench mounted or held in a vise. With extraordinary force it would move about 1mm so I kept at it and finally it came off.

I used a caseback retainer holder, this one, but no avail, will try next days after cooling off my nerves

This is the caseback holder I have , its a decent and sturdy one

The other one wouldn't budge in that manner no matter what. So I had to epoxy a socket to it. The longer leverage of the strong thick wrench handle did the job with little effort. I used a quite generous glob of JB Weld epoxy. You have to soak it in acetone to release it and clean it up. Acetone evaporates quickly so it has to sealed in a ziplock bag overnight or a couple days.





Once off, the threads can be grinded free of burrs nicely with the sharp prongs of a stout springbar tool. It can be slightly tedious but its safer than a dremel cutting blade if you're not surgically handy with tools.

I really hope not to be forced to use this option, lets see

 

[johnlogan]

 

[flashu]

Blue's for the money

 

[KJ2020]

I really hope not to be forced to use this option, lets see

Haha, I know, right? It's not so bad if all else fails. It became an obsession at that point, that bitch was comin' off dammit.

Another option of course would be to get a modder or jeweler to use a real bench mounted remover on it. But I like to do things myself if there's any way.

 

[M.Jules]

I got mine a few weeks ago and i really love it!

Movement is smooth, winding is smooth

Only thing that bothered me is the date wheel colour that is a tad too orange so i replaced it with a champagne one wich is a much closer match!

 

[k0hr]

I got mine a few weeks ago and i really love it!

Movement is smooth, winding is smooth

Only thing that bothered me is the date wheel colour that is a tad too orange so i replaced it with a champagne one wich is a much closer match!

May I ask which date wheels overlay you guys are using? raffles?

 

[M.Jules]

I did use the raffles one for the 3135 movement. Direct fit

 

[flashu]

Another option of course would be to get a modder or jeweler to use a real bench mounted remover on it.

Did the easiest part, just screw it in back for now to enjoy the watch

Here are some photos where you can see how the caseback sits uneven ....






For now all good

BP LEC is actually one of the better ones. I can’t see the one on mine without a loupe. Sorry, but a Clean xtal is a downgrade on pretty much everything outside of Ali.

I agree, cannot see with naked eyes even with glasses but is there as you can see

 

[johnchpark]

I'm still waiting on my BP 16610LN order, but I had to order parts for a different build, so decided to order some extra stuff to Franken my 16610.

Ordered gen date wheel, VS 3135, Deep Crystal, gen LN bezel, ARF Bezels from Sillian (this was before ordering a gen bezel).

Since my BP order hasn't come in, i guess i could still change it to ARF.

Do yall think BP is still the way to go considering these planned modifications?

 

[Dizzy]

Thx bro, clarks is only available from US and shipping is rather expensive. Does anyone know an alternative in the EU ?

I have looked and not found another source for a single side AR sub crystal. These have AR on the entire bottom and not just the cyclops. They are very similar to what you would find on the newest 2022+ gen Rolex OP, Daytona, day-date and 41mm submariner. So technically it’s not incorrect. Makes the dial looks 10x better. shipping to canada costs me $25 and that’s sure excessive. If anyone finds another source let me know. I’m sure eventually they will be on AliExpress.

 

[Dizzy]

I'm still waiting on my BP 16610LN order, but I had to order parts for a different build, so decided to order some extra stuff to Franken my 16610.

Ordered gen date wheel, VS 3135, Deep Crystal, gen LN bezel, ARF Bezels from Sillian (this was before ordering a gen bezel).

Since my BP order hasn't come in, i guess i could still change it to ARF.

Do yall think BP is still the way to go considering these planned modifications?

You really don’t need to replace the new VR 3135 with a VS. I’d wait until the VR dies, if it ever does. The new VR’s are good from what I’ve seen. Deep crystal will be a good upgrade. Gen bezel won’t fit unless a 116610 bezel will fit but then the ceramic insert is wrong. I guess you coukd do a Genuine bezel with retaining ring and click spring that you would have to drill a hole for. I’d just do a genuine insert on the BP and thats Prob good. The crystal and insert and are the two things that need to be replaced.

 

[Dizzy]

Did the easiest part, just screw it in back for now to enjoy the watch

Here are some photos where you can see how the caseback sits uneven ....

Don’t press down so hard. As soon as it breaks loose and turns slightly, use very light pressure or use your fingers or it will cross thread. My noob Daytona did the same thing.