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BP 16710 with VR3186

radomguy

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"nice, where did you get the insert?"

Firstclassdials.com
Sounds great. I got my 16710 this week and wanted to swap the dial with a coke inlay. But I'm a bit confused tbh. Somewhere I read it has not gen specs for the inlay and a gen inlay will not fit. Did you sand it down a little or did it work without any modifications?
 

Timmer

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Sounds great. I got my 16710 this week and wanted to swap the dial with a coke inlay. But I'm a bit confused tbh. Somewhere I read it has not gen specs for the inlay and a gen inlay will not fit. Did you sand it down a little or did it work without any modifications?
To reiterate from my post above (#158) - no, I did not have to sand the gen insert - it seated / "popped in" with a little force.
 

bowtiefanatc

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Sounds great. I got my 16710 this week and wanted to swap the dial with a coke inlay. But I'm a bit confused tbh. Somewhere I read it has not gen specs for the inlay and a gen inlay will not fit. Did you sand it down a little or did it work without any modifications?

Did you get a gen insert? Some people have had success just popping in a gen insert. I had to sand down my 16600 gen insert to get it to fit. The WSO insert I got for my old 16710 popped in with zero issues.
 

alligoat

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I think gen inlays have to be sanded down some to fit.


This is the 16710 BP I got this week- VR3186 movt. The chamfers aren't too bad- lower left lug is the most pronounced but overall they're not bothering me. Crown guards could be straightened up on the inside but overall I think it's a nice watch OOTB.
 

cheeewsoap

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The bp gmt cases seem really hit or miss. I’ve seen some where there outer/inner crown guard is decent, then some with horrendous shape (too fat). It’s making the case for a viet build easier.
 

bowtiefanatc

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The bp gmt cases seem really hit or miss. I’ve seen some where there outer/inner crown guard is decent, then some with horrendous shape (too fat). It’s making the case for a viet build easier.

I really wish the German case would make a come back
 

alligoat

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So you can figure that a Bivintage 16710 case will run $650.
I'm happy with my BP case and recognize the short comings.
The weak link to all of this is the VR3186- will it work and keep on working?
 

bowtiefanatc

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VR isn’t necessarily a weak link. It takes gen parts so if anything goes out it can be repaired.

The SA is definitely the weak link.
 
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Lokkenzulu

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Good morning guys... a pepsi is hanging around my head to install a faded bezel in it.

I have question about the new case... How thick is it? I think I have read about 13mm ( i can't find the info...maybe reddit?), so the back cover has to be shaved anyway.

Is there a place where you can buy the back cover with the correct thickness or is it mandatory to shave the BP one? Because I can't think of how to do it.

Thank you!!
 

tripwire759

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what was wrong?
The dial is off center. Easy fix but then the insert is wrong. I don't feel like pulling it apart, sourcing a new insert, and getting it right. If I wanted to put this much work into it, I would have ordered just the case and built it myself. BP can has done better and I just got a one that should have been rejected. Awaiting a new QC.
 

radomguy

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The dial is off center. Easy fix but then the insert is wrong. I don't feel like pulling it apart, sourcing a new insert, and getting it right. If I wanted to put this much work into it, I would have ordered just the case and built it myself. BP can has done better and I just got a one that should have been rejected. Awaiting a new QC.
Good eye my friend. I wouldn't have seen it if you didn't pointed it out. I ordered a 16710 Pepsi and the dial is centered properly. Now when I see your Coke bezel I want one too :D I will look after a good aftermarket bezel and try to swap it.

Just out of curiosity can any of you guys tell me if the bezel click of this BP is like gen or different? Unfortunately I never had a gen 16710 in my hand and can't compare it. I'm asking myself if it is worth changing the click spring to a better one or is the stock click spring good enough compared to a gen. What do you think?
 

alligoat

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The BP bezel assembly is the old style with the wire in there- nothing like the gen assembly. You could check around- KJ2020 has posted some pics as I recall. But getting a click spring for this bastard assembly probably isn't going to be worth it. And converting to a gen like assembly- I'm not sure what would be required- it's similar to the 16610 assembly so you'd need a crystal retention ring, flat washer, click spring with a bend at the end to allow the bezel to turn in either direction and a new bezel (and bezel insert). Also, a gen like crystal and it might entail turning the case on a lathe so the crystal and crystal retention ring fit properly. At that point, you might as well get a gen like case, but then the BP dial might not fit. Sometimes it's better to leave well enough alone and be happy with what you have.
 
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TerryRobot

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Bezel is the silly wire method for sure with a couple of little spring clickers sat in the body (see further back in this post for my images. the clickers are not all that bad the bezel retention spring it is the part that is week, seems a bit too much play when switching directly and its not the clickers I think its just the bezel spring tension isnt strong enough. I hear about getting gen like cases where is everyone ordering these from?
 

TerryRobot

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On another not the dreaded chamfers on the BP's Ive had a little play and will try and take some pics when i get time.

The chamfers are better than some but still more pronounced than they need to be, some like it I just think they catch the light a little too much. So I thought id give toning them down a go.

The aim wasnt to remove them as such by grinding and taking material away and trying to blend, which can work well but still looks a bot odd to me. So I got some 1200 wet n dry sanding disks and used them dry. (I practice on an old shitty thing from years back first and the brushing finish is very close to the brushed top section of the lugs.

So I just put the disk round a pencil and lightly scuffed the shiny surface of the chamfered part only going away from the watch down the lug. The pencil made it a bit awkward so i then just folded the disk into like a little point.

I gave a pass on one lug at first then wipe off with a thumb and then another pass until the polished surface had been sufficiently dulled where it almost blends with the top section finish.

The chamfers are still visible under close scrutiny but as the polished edge is no longer there they catch no longer catch the light, attracting the eye to them.

Now the case looks a whole lot better when being worn , this is not the same as grinding a case or trying to remove the chamfer this is really just trying not to highlight them by taking away there sheen, I reckon if i tried a higher grit maybe a 1600 i could blend them in much more.

Here are some quick pics but its hard to get a good angle so apologies! In person it does make a big difference as the edges dont bling in the light. Still haven't sorted the dial alignment yet or the bezel insert!

 
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hollywoodrollie

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12/12/23
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Just got my QC pics. Dial seems well aligned but date seems to sit a bit high... it could be the pic angle though. The insert font seems to be a bit too bold but I don't know if that's supposed to be the "fat" font version or what...
Is there anything I missed?

 
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