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Decal printed dial

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  • Bart Cordell
    started a topic Decal printed dial

    Decal printed dial

    Hi !

    This weekend I achieve to print a nice 6538 dial on decal paper.
    Dial photoshoped pixel by pixel and printed in high quality.

    Drawing and test print




    Decal print





    Test on dial plate








    Tried to print red line depth without success


    Hole cutted


    Hands on



    Test on my spare silix case






    Thanks for reading

  • Briteling
    replied
    I've seen some adverts about 'ghost toners' laser toner cartridges and software that has white toner, that ought to be interesting! But that aside, laser printers will never achieve the resolution of an inkjet, like I already said several times, it is not the dpi that makes a laser printer more refined, it is the toner quality. I'm looking for a HP or Canon myself.

    Don't forget the film free method will only start to look decent after the final bake, then the toner will melt and become a fluid, which irons out all the minor resolution issues..

    Leave a comment:


  • n0bby
    replied
    Originally posted by itgoes211 View Post
    ...it turns out that the Xerox software/drivers don’t allow the level of customization to get better prints than my inkjet! It’s hard to believe that high end 2400dpi Xerox printers don’t offer detailed adjustments more than “Standard”, “Photo”, “Presentation” options.
    itgoes211 Unfortunately I made the same choice as you and went for the Xerox because of the low price and stated high resolution... But hit a wall thanks to their lousy software, same as you. So my wife now uses that printer as a simple workhorse and I've gone back to using the inkjet.

    Leave a comment:


  • itgoes211
    replied
    Originally posted by Briteling View Post
    You can't use that paper with ink, the glue will dissolve the ink 100%. Also beware of the fact Sunnyscopa has two types of glue. W2 for porous surfaces, which needs no heat to dry, this is useless for dial printing. Then there is W1, which is as thin as water and has the most peculiar smell. This is barely a glue, but it does help to make the decal adhere to the surface.

    I use a heat gun/blower for everything. I blow hot air from about 1 foot away to dry the glue for about two minutes. The let it cool down and peel away the film. Then it is just toner on metal basically, still very vulnerable and unsmooth. Then I apply a lot of heat with the heat gun really close by. I use the second highest setting as the air speed is then low, you don't want the dial to lift off. I use a small slab of steel to install the dial on, got a few little holes drilled in it to let the dial feet rest in. The slab sits on four "feet" so I can place it on amy surface without burning it.

    At one point the toner will become fluid and the surface will turn kinda glossy, that's when you stop. If I want flat black, I gently push down a slab of a silicone baking mat on top while still hot and remove that when everything is cooled down...
    Britelingn0bby : What laser printer(s) do you recommend?

    After tons of research, I bought a Xerox Workstation (LED/Laser) and a Xerox Phaser (Laser) - specifically because they have 2400dpi resolution and are supposed to be great for high-res printing. ... But of course, the first test prints are worse than my old Canon inkjet. After fiddling with every setting I could find, and then 3 hours on the phone with Xerox L2 Tech Support, it turns out that the Xerox software/drivers don’t allow the level of customization to get better prints than my inkjet! It’s hard to believe that high end 2400dpi Xerox printers don’t offer detailed adjustments more than “Standard”, “Photo”, “Presentation” options. Even the Xerox tech support was surprised. So, I’m going to try again more this week to find settings and get better prints. I might returns these and buy a Canon laser printer even if the max dpi is 1200dpi or even 900dpi. I’m dying to try the film free decal method!

    But if you have suggestions on a laser printer, I’d love to know them.

    Thanks and cheers!

    Leave a comment:


  • itgoes211
    replied
    And here’s a Super Precision version where I took the aging too far again. Just testing different techniques. 369mafia


    ​​​​​​​

    Leave a comment:


  • itgoes211
    replied

    here are some others... (I hope the pic loads)369mafia

    Leave a comment:


  • itgoes211
    replied
    Yes, I made the albino dial. I’ve been working on a bunch of different albino dials as well as the usual blacks, tropics, and different blues as well. 369mafia

    Leave a comment:


  • 369mafia
    replied
    Originally posted by itgoes211 View Post
    See if this works now via Tapatalk.


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
    did you make that dial? Albino 6610

    Leave a comment:


  • itgoes211
    replied
    Apologies to everyone - my picture posting skills apparently suck. I won’t post any more until I get this figured out. Sorry

    Leave a comment:


  • itgoes211
    replied
    Originally posted by itgoes211 View Post
    See if this works now via Tapatalk.


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
    And yes it’s the wrong case, hands, bezel, etc. :-) It’s just a fantasy build. Here’s another fantasy T-R that I experimented with different different applications for moisture-indicator.


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

    Leave a comment:


  • itgoes211
    replied
    See if this works now via Tapatalk.


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

    Leave a comment:


  • itgoes211
    replied
    n0bby : good point, sorry. I apply decal to the dial after the waterproof & triple thick multi-layer spray “sandwich” is completely dry. (Painful to wait). But it really gives the decal some rigidity when applying wet.

    Off-point side note: Depending on what I’m making or the effect going for, I will sometimes apply other sprays or paint or matte after the decal is dry on the dial. I’ve even tried a special mixture of thick coffee, a vinegar-based concoction, bleach-mixes, paints, and more - almost anything I can find just to see what happens and learn.

    Heres a sample of some hard-core ageing I tried. I was going for a “found on the reef after 20 years under water - and it still works” look. I think it was some combo of dehydrated coffee and soy sauce, bleach, salt, and maybe hydrogen peroxide. Let’s see if I can get the pic to load...

    Leave a comment:


  • n0bby
    replied
    Originally posted by itgoes211 View Post
    I’ve solved the wrinkling problem with my slide decals. I’m happy to chat if you want to pm me. Here are the basics though:
    1) After printing it, let the printout dry for a day if possible. Really, it made a difference for me. It also keeps the ink from running.
    2) After printout is completely dry, spray a thin layer of waterproof krylon.
    3) When that is dry, spray another thicker layer of waterproof Krylon. Let that dry as well - even if it’s the quick dry type. (waiting is the hardest part).
    4) Then again more layers of Kylon - spray and walk away - let it dry.
    Thanks itgoes211
    Something you don't mention in your checklist is at what point you actually apply the decal to the dial. Is it at the end of this entire process, or at the beginning, or at some point during all those clear coat layer applications?

    Leave a comment:


  • 369mafia
    replied
    Originally posted by manodeoro View Post

    Problem is that you can't print white on decal.
    The only way is to put a black printed decal on a white sprayed dial plate nut the writings won't have no 3D effect.
    Everything will be "flat" ... like that 6429 dial

    I want that dial!!

    Leave a comment:


  • Briteling
    replied
    You can't use that paper with ink, the glue will dissolve the ink 100%. Also beware of the fact Sunnyscopa has two types of glue. W2 for porous surfaces, which needs no heat to dry, this is useless for dial printing. Then there is W1, which is as thin as water and has the most peculiar smell. This is barely a glue, but it does help to make the decal adhere to the surface.

    I use a heat gun/blower for everything. I blow hot air from about 1 foot away to dry the glue for about two minutes. The let it cool down and peel away the film. Then it is just toner on metal basically, still very vulnerable and unsmooth. Then I apply a lot of heat with the heat gun really close by. I use the second highest setting as the air speed is then low, you don't want the dial to lift off. I use a small slab of steel to install the dial on, got a few little holes drilled in it to let the dial feet rest in. The slab sits on four "feet" so I can place it on amy surface without burning it.

    At one point the toner will become fluid and the surface will turn kinda glossy, that's when you stop. If I want flat black, I gently push down a slab of a silicone baking mat on top while still hot and remove that when everything is cooled down...

    Leave a comment:

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