Tutorial: How to fix the Bezel on a CLEAN GMT Master 2

[Tobbe994]

Thank you all for your help. I have been to quite a struggle Now. I even bought 0.64mm and 0.7mm fishing line to replace the hyrtel Ring. 0.64mm is too small, i have not tried 0.7mm yet. But today I have Managed to make it work again thanks to your help and to some reddit Users: it was just the wrong grease!! I read in a thread that some Kind of Silicon grease may be better than the Clean (i think oil based) grease. But someone on reddit mentioned that he would recommend Molykote DX Paste. So i degreased the silicone grease, put in my Clean hyrtel Ring and greased with the new Paste. Now it is Perfect, clicks Like gen and is way sharper. The bezel Play is still there but way better now. I am planning to Sand the edges of the Pin bases on the Clickspring (I Heard this is the reason for Bezel wiggle). But After this struggle, i will give this a Pause

 

[derjenigewelcher]

Thank you all for your help. I have been to quite a struggle Now. I even bought 0.64mm and 0.7mm fishing line to replace the hyrtel Ring. 0.64mm is too small, i have not tried 0.7mm yet. But today I have Managed to make it work again thanks to your help and to some reddit Users: it was just the wrong grease!! I read in a thread that some Kind of Silicon grease may be better than the Clean (i think oil based) grease. But someone on reddit mentioned that he would recommend Molykote DX Paste. So i degreased the silicone grease, put in my Clean hyrtel Ring and greased with the new Paste. Now it is Perfect, clicks Like gen and is way sharper. The bezel Play is still there but way better now. I am planning to Sand the edges of the Pin bases on the Clickspring (I Heard this is the reason for Bezel wiggle). But After this struggle, i will give this a Pause

The reason that the bezel wiggles is that the spring has not got enough tension

 

[Justin_thyme]

I am using fishline for hytrel rings whenever I have an issue with a rep one. I bought about 12 spools of fishline when I first started doing this, having no idea what diameter would be best. Now I use only 0.56mm, 0.61mm and less frequently 0.64mm. Even then sometimes the fit isn't perfect so I fold over a piece of 400 grit sandpaper, hold the line in a pin vise and pull the paper down the straightened line to thin it a little. Then put a thin coat of silicone grease on the line. It works well, no vertical or lateral play once you find the right diameter. Use Monofilament, NOT Braided

It has also been reported that 0.70 mm nylon jewelry making thread works well as a substitute for the hytrel ring.

Once you have the correct size diameter, the line can be wrapped around your finger or a Sharpie for example to give it a curved shape. It should stay in place during the install if you haven't sanded the ends narrower than the body.

Start small and work up to a thicker size if it's too loose. If you force a bezel down with too big a line it won't rotate and it can be very difficult to get it back off. There's always a way but it can get complicated. Think nylon melting point and ovens, haha.

Fishline is incredibly tough. I daresay a properly sized (in diameter) piece of fishline will never exhibit play unless the bezel groove or retaining ring lip it rests under has defects like burrs or sharp edges.

But, if you put a piece in place that is too big, the bezel can be pressed on with extra effort and then it may not rotate. It can happen that afterwards the bezel will not come off the case. This is because the fishline is so dense there is hardly any give to it. The only solution then is to remove the movement and any other O rings and gaskets you can, then heat the watch head in an oven to 500° for 20-30 minutes.

This does not leave a mess - the fishline will melt, turn black and shrink or crumble allowing for easy removal and cleanup. It will also melt a crystal gasket if present and it can stink a bit so best done with open windows and other family members gone. Note that there are precautions about nylon fumes being toxic, so proceed at your own risk. This is a tiny bit of melting taking place whose danger can be deemed negligible IMO. I have had to do this twice, due to using too big a piece of fishline. You will know beforehand if this is going to happen - if the bezel is crazy hard to press down, the line is too big in diameter!

The point of this discussion is to attest to the near indestructible nature of fishline. With normal use in a bezel it should never be compromised.

Hi, im having trouble finding a monofil line with those specs mentioned. Which brand & lbs test line are you using that has .56 and .61mm diameter?

 

[KJ2020]

Hi, im having trouble finding a monofil line with those specs mentioned. Which brand & lbs test line are you using that has .56 and .61mm diameter?

The thicknesses can vary a little from one manufacturer to the next. The three I've come to rely on exclusively are 25LB 30LB and 40LB.

 

[JTB16635]

Hi, im having trouble finding a monofil line with those specs mentioned. Which brand & lbs test line are you using that has .56 and .61mm diameter?

Justin, if you are in the US look at the Reaction Tackle monofilament line on Amazon 30, 40, 50, and 60 lb line. they show the exact diameter in the descriptions.

 

[Justin_thyme]

The thicknesses can vary a little from one manufacturer to the next. The three I've come to rely on exclusively are 25LB 30LB and 40LB.

thank you, i will look for those test lines

 

[Justin_thyme]

Justin, if you are in the US look at the Reaction Tackle monofilament line on Amazon 30, 40, 50, and 60 lb line. they show the exact diameter in the descriptions.

amazing, i was looking on amazon!

 

[Tobbe994]

The reason that the bezel wiggles is that the spring has not got enough tension

The reason that the bezel wiggles is that the spring has not got enough tension

Interesting! How do you thighten the spring? Or do I need to buy a new clickspring? thanks btw you helped a lot here

 

[Justin_thyme]

you bend the spring inwards to create a tighter circle. a new spring wont necessarily help :/ if you tighten it too much, itll get rid of the bezel play/wiggle at the cost of not being able to turn the bezel freely. gotta find a good balance... plus if its too tight itll kinda sound clicky (although stock parts make it sound clicky already)

 

[Tobbe994]

you bend the spring inwards to create a tighter circle. a new spring wont necessarily help :/ if you tighten it too much, itll get rid of the bezel play/wiggle at the cost of not being able to turn the bezel freely. gotta find a good balance... plus if its too tight itll kinda sound clicky (although stock parts make it sound clicky already)

Thank you bro! I already read that you have to bend the spring between the pin parts a little outwards. But how do you do it most efficiently. Would you to it when the clickspring is assembled in the bezel or freely by hand?
I also have one more thing i noticed: while the bezel action and sound is superb now, i kinda have the feeling, that the bezel is sitting not as strong on the watch as before. I think this is because the Clean Hyrtel i inserted again my be a little damaged. But i will try with 0.7mm monofile and the aliexpress hyrtel soon.

 

[Justin_thyme]

Thank you bro! I already read that you have to bend the spring between the pin parts a little outwards. But how do you do it most efficiently. Would you to it when the clickspring is assembled in the bezel or freely by hand?
I also have one more thing i noticed: while the bezel action and sound is superb now, i kinda have the feeling, that the bezel is sitting not as strong on the watch as before. I think this is because the Clean Hyrtel i inserted again my be a little damaged. But i will try with 0.7mm monofile and the aliexpress hyrtel soon.

freely by hand, itd be really hard to do it while installed imo. although bezel action feels much more crisp and tight+tactile, my only gripe is that its not really like gen bc gen has a smooth-snap feel to it vs clicking into place. but gen rings are so expensive....

 

[derjenigewelcher]

freely by hand, itd be really hard to do it while installed imo. although bezel action feels much more crisp and tight+tactile, my only gripe is that its not really like gen bc gen has a smooth-snap feel to it vs clicking into place. but gen rings are so expensive....

I would never buy a gen speing anymore, those 100 bucks are too much for what you get since you can improve to almost this level with the rep parts.

 

[Justin_thyme]

I would never buy a gen speing anymore, those 100 bucks are too much for what you get since you can improve to almost this level with the rep parts.

Im convinced gen spring doesnt do anything by itself other than better proportions with the nubs. Although the gmt bezel fix really improves the feel, i notice a big difference compared to my uncle’s gen pepsi. I remember seeing a modder post a comparison video between a stock/rep gmt bezel parts vs gen parts and i am almost sure the difference comes from the retaining ring’s teeth shape.

 

[2841]

Im convinced gen spring doesnt do anything by itself other than better proportions with the nubs. Although the gmt bezel fix really improves the feel, i notice a big difference compared to my uncle’s gen pepsi. I remember seeing a modder post a comparison video between a stock/rep gmt bezel parts vs gen parts and i am almost sure the difference comes from the retaining ring’s teeth shape.

You are right, a gen click spring will do pretty much nothing, it’s the combination of gen parts that gives gen that smooth motion