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Tutorial: How to fix the Bezel on a CLEAN GMT Master 2

JTB16635

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derjenigewelcher

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KJ2020

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ok I replaced the hytrel ring. Not it... Still pretty hard to move and almost feels like its rough/scratchy when turning... Maybe its the lube im using? Can anyone advise.

Im linking the lube below:


Silicone grease is silicone grease so that's not it.

Take all the bezel parts off the case. Take the hytrel ring out of the bezel groove.

1. Have you had the crystal retaining ring off?

2. Has the crystal gasket been replaced?

3. Does your replacement hytrel ring have a stair-step outside edge profile? If so is the larger diameter "bottom step" oriented UP, toward the insert?

Examine all your parts carefully.

- does the flat washer fit onto the case without touching the crystal retaining ring? It may need its inner, outer or both perimeters sanded to make it narrower.

‐ does each pin on the 3 pin click ring move freely back and forth in an oval pin hole where it fits on the bezel underside? A pin circumference or an oval hole interior may need to be carefully sanded or filed slightly to make this happen.

- when you place the 3 pin click ring on the case (no washer installed), does any part of it other than the oval pin bases touch the retaining ring teeth? The lengths of the spring between the oval pin bases may need to be manipulated (squeezed or straightened) to keep them from touching the retaining ring teeth.

The next steps will be much easier to do with the insert removed.

After making sure and correcting all the above, place only the 3 pin click ring on the case (no washer installed). Leave the hytrel ring out of the bezel and place the bezel onto the case, the click ring pins properly fitted into their holes.

Test the bezel rotation. This is the bare minimum number of parts needed so if there is a problem now, it will be easy to identify the cause. If the rotation is stiff or gritty, add some silcone grease to the insides of the retaining ring scallops and try again. With particularly troublesome parts I tape a correctly sized crystal die into the bezel well to give me a giant "wheel" to turn the bezel with. Sometimes with repeated forced rotation, rapid back and forth movement, you can wear the parts down to eliminate burrs and rough edges.

We'll add parts next but I need your answers to questions 1 and 2 above before proceeding.
 
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m5750

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ok I replaced the hytrel ring. Not it... Still pretty hard to move and almost feels like its rough/scratchy when turning... Maybe its the lube im using? Can anyone advise.

Im linking the lube below:

As someone who has screwed up a lot of bezel install attempts, KJ's advice and now this - https://forum.replica-watch.info/threads/kjs-useful-links.11003373/ - have helped me tremendously. I can't guarantee, but am very, very certain that the answer you're looking for is in the previous post and/or the link/sub-links I posted.
 

argv12

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How do you line up the crystal retaining ring relative to the dial? Does a scallop bump line up with 12?
 

KJ2020

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How do you line up the crystal retaining ring relative to the dial? Does a scallop bump line up with 12?
There is no correlation between the dial and a retaining ring's rotational position. An insert is installed last, after the bezel so the retaining ring's orientation doesn't matter.

If you are reinstalling a bezel that already has an insert attached, it is unlikely you will achieve the same insert alignment with the dial that it had previously. It is possible to intentionally position a retaining ring in such a way as to achieve proper insert alignment. But that is a frustrating trial and error process that will take multiple attempts of pressing the retaining ring on firmly enough so it will stay put while you fit the bezel and click ring over it (at an elevated postion) and try to ascertain alignment. I did this once and will never attempt it again.

The way to avoid this is to make about 3 Sharpie curve marks on the case, inside 3 bezel scallops 120° apart BEFORE removing the retaining ring. Then press the retaining ring back on in the exact same random orientation it was in to start with. If this isn't done you can try your luck a few times but it usually ends up with an insert removal from the bezel. Install the bezel, then align and reinstall the insert.
 
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argv12

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There is no correlation between the dial and a retaining ring's rotational position. An insert is installed last, after the bezel so the retaining ring's orientation doesn't matter.

If you are reinstalling a bezel that already has an insert attached, it is unlikely you will achieve the same insert alignment with the dial that it had previously. It is possible to intentionally position a retaining ring in such a way as to achieve proper insert alignment. But that is a frustrating trial and error process that will take multiple attempts of pressing the retaining ring on firmly enough so it will stay put while you fit the bezel and click ring over it (at an elevated postion) and try to ascertain alignment. I did this once and will never attempt it again.

The way to avoid this is to make about 3 Sharpie curve marks on the case, inside 3 bezel scallops 120° apart BEFORE removing the retaining ring. Then press the retaining ring back on in the exact same random orientation it was in to start with. If this isn't done you can try your luck a few times but it usually ends up with a insert removal from the bezel. Install the bezel, then align and reinstall the insert.
Got it, thank you. And for putting the bezel insert back in a clean it's just an adhesive ring? Is there any quality difference among these?
 
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KJ2020

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Got it, thank you. And for putting the bezel insert back in a clean it's just an adhesive ring? Is there any quality difference among these?
Yes a double-sided tape ring. I've used a lot of different ones and never had an issue. When I buy them I choose 3M. You can also use GSHypo cement for this task. I prefer the tape rings because I take quite a while sometimes to get it aligned perfectly and GSHypo cures very quickly.
 

argv12

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Thanks got mine all situated. FWIW, I did a bunch of trial and error with my bezel. I found better results using white lithium grease instead of silicone grease. Apparently silicone isn’t good for metal-to-metal. I have a gen bat and was able to get my clean bezel pretty close, although still with maybe half a mm of play that the gen doesn’t have. It’s pretty smooth now. When I used silicone it felt like metal grinding on metal
 
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KJ2020

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Thanks got mine all situated. FWIW, I did a bunch of trial and error with my bezel. I found better results using white lithium grease instead of silicone grease. Apparently silicone isn’t good for metal-to-metal. I have a gen bat and was able to get my clean bezel pretty close, although still with maybe half a mm of play that the gen doesn’t have. It’s pretty smooth now. When I used silicone it felt like metal grinding on metal
Glad you got it sorted bro. Thanks for the feedback. I might try some lithium grease next time.

Good article here describing the differences:

 
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JTB16635

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Lucas Oil Extreme Duty Gun Grease is the way.