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The Vintage DateJust Thread
- Thread starter 1016_idiot_savant
- Start date
Yes, I have the version with the case "circle recess" slightly wider than the crown. I have been considering ordering a new one to try my hand at reshaping the end links; thanks for your progressive step photos above!
TheAmazingMrZ
Getting To Know The Place
Ok so that’s the newer one. My VS3135 fits perfect in it with no rotor issues. Sorry you’re having issues!
Not much of an issue - just had to dremel material from the inside of the caseback to allow adequate space for the rotor to spin.
johnchpark
Active Member
Does anyone know if a Clark or Sternkreuz crystal is worth the upgrade from stock Raffles?
From my memory, the Raffles was more or less fine, but it did have quite a bit of glare
From my memory, the Raffles was more or less fine, but it did have quite a bit of glare
TheAmazingMrZ
Getting To Know The Place
aeroxmhr46
Getting To Know The Place
Gen 16233 case
Gen 16200 Caseback
Gen Crystal
Gen Crown
Gen Hands
Gen Tube
Gen Tapestry Dial
Gen champagne DW
Vs 3135
Raffles 14k bracelet
Gen 16200 Caseback
Gen Crystal
Gen Crown
Gen Hands
Gen Tube
Gen Tapestry Dial
Gen champagne DW
Vs 3135
Raffles 14k bracelet
johnchpark
Active Member
To answer my own question for progeny:
Compared a stock Raffles (30.4mm x 29.5mm x 2.0mm) to a stock Clean (Daytona 116500) (30.5mm x 29.5mm x 1.8mm) crystals and it’s a huge difference. And the Deep vs Clean was a big enough difference for me to have had it swapped.
Plus, the 116500 fits in the Raffles gasket and Raffles 36mm case. But need to widen the ID of bezel to fit slightly larger crystal OD.
johnchpark
Active Member
To answer my own question for progeny:
Compared a stock Raffles (30.4mm x 29.5mm x 2.0mm) to a stock Clean (Daytona 116500) (30.5mm x 29.5mm x 1.8mm) crystals and it’s a huge difference. And the Deep vs Clean was a big enough difference for me to have had it swapped.
Plus, the 116500 fits in the Raffles gasket and Raffles 36mm case. But need to widen the ID of bezel to fit slightly larger crystal OD.
Sorry, correction.
Both crystals are 30.4mm OD. 30.65mm when mounted on Raffles stock gasket. Raffles 30.5mm ID bezels should fit; but gen-spec 30.4mm ID bezels will need widening
johnchpark
Active Member
Sorry, one more update:
I just realized it’s easier to sand down the outside of the stock Raffles crystal gasket by 0.1~2mm, which then fits gen-spec 30.4mm ID bezels. Much easier than grinding the ID of the bezel.
The Raffles case is reasonably accurate for 5-digit DateJusts, so I chose not to reshape the case for my 16030 Franken build. Instead, I drilled out the lugs to accept gen-spec 2mm shoulderless spring bars (cousins #S52544), using a cheap hand drill and Ø1.3mm bit (cousins #D49923) I McGyvered into a drill press:
I also replaced the Raffles crown and tube with an Athaya 24-600 by drilling (Ø2,8mm) and tapping (Ø3.00 x 0.35) the tube hole:
The Athaya 24-600 crown takes about 6 winds to close, compared to the Raffles, which takes about 3 winds and generally feels more robust while optically looking more correct. Also, the Athaya crown is more grippy:
And that's pretty much all that was needed...
I also replaced the Raffles crown and tube with an Athaya 24-600 by drilling (Ø2,8mm) and tapping (Ø3.00 x 0.35) the tube hole:
The Athaya 24-600 crown takes about 6 winds to close, compared to the Raffles, which takes about 3 winds and generally feels more robust while optically looking more correct. Also, the Athaya crown is more grippy:
And that's pretty much all that was needed...
@1016_idiot_savant
FYI
Gen silver linen dial
Gen 16000 case and case back
Gen steel engine turned bezel
Gen hands
Gen bracelet, clasp
Rep end-links
Gen plexi
Rep DWO
Gen Swiss ETA 2836
FYI
Gen silver linen dial
Gen 16000 case and case back
Gen steel engine turned bezel
Gen hands
Gen bracelet, clasp
Rep end-links
Gen plexi
Rep DWO
Gen Swiss ETA 2836
A beauty - how did you get the gen hands to fit? Interesting to see what appears to be a misaligned coronet - I had the same on my gen 1603 linen dial and found several examples online. If these had been a rep series, they would probably have been rejected@1016_idiot_savant
FYI
Gen silver linen dial
Gen 16000 case and case back
Gen steel engine turned bezel
Gen hands
Gen bracelet, clasp
Rep end-links
Gen plexi
Rep DWO
Gen Swiss ETA 2836
Exactly mate LOLA beauty - how did you get the gen hands to fit? Interesting to see what appears to be a misaligned coronet - I had the same on my gen 1603 linen dial and found several examples online. If these had been a rep series, they would probably have been rejected
Bought the watch like this, just serviced the movement and upgraded the bracelet a bit. Supposed to be for my wife but ended up wearing it an d sourced her another option
johnchpark
Active Member
The Raffles case is reasonably accurate for 5-digit DateJusts, so I chose not to reshape the case for my 16030 Franken build. Instead, I drilled out the lugs to accept gen-spec 2mm shoulderless spring bars (cousins #S52544), using a cheap hand drill and Ø1.3mm bit (cousins #D49923) I McGyvered into a drill press:
I also replaced the Raffles crown and tube with an Athaya 24-600 by drilling (Ø2,8mm) and tapping (Ø3.00 x 0.35) the tube hole:
The Athaya 24-600 crown takes about 6 winds to close, compared to the Raffles, which takes about 3 winds and generally feels more robust while optically looking more correct. Also, the Athaya crown is more grippy:
And that's pretty much all that was needed...
Hey, quick question about the Athaya crowns.
I saw on the 1016 forum, there was some back and forth between using a M3 x 0.35mm vs 0.30mm.
Is there a reason you went back to the 0.35mm instead?
Thanks
johnchpark
Active Member
And btw, does the Athaya crown need countersinking to fit the Raffles case?The Raffles case is reasonably accurate for 5-digit DateJusts, so I chose not to reshape the case for my 16030 Franken build. Instead, I drilled out the lugs to accept gen-spec 2mm shoulderless spring bars (cousins #S52544), using a cheap hand drill and Ø1.3mm bit (cousins #D49923) I McGyvered into a drill press:
I also replaced the Raffles crown and tube with an Athaya 24-600 by drilling (Ø2,8mm) and tapping (Ø3.00 x 0.35) the tube hole:
The Athaya 24-600 crown takes about 6 winds to close, compared to the Raffles, which takes about 3 winds and generally feels more robust while optically looking more correct. Also, the Athaya crown is more grippy:
And that's pretty much all that was needed...
I think i saw Esslinger crowns needed countersinking
Although I had my doubts, I used the M3 x 0.35mm as confirmed by Athaya for multiple builds, and had no issues. While the Athaya tube could benefit from a countersink, I did not countersink to fit the Raffles cases, which have an indentation (easy to see in my photo) that essentially acts as a kind of countersink for the whole crown.
johnchpark
Active Member
Here’s the rest of the build. There used to be a debate on fitting a clone 3135 in a Raffles 2824 case, many people have proven it fits perfectly (as you’ll see below). Only trick is fitting a movement spacer. My solution was trimming (nothing thinning and shortening) a black zip tie I had. I ended up cutting that in two pieces to fit in the case. Seems to be the trick! Also are pictures from the rest of the build for fun:
Does a 3135 fit in Raffles 2824 case without needing to adjust the crown tube?
I thought 2824 and 3135 have different crown stem heights
The raffles crystals are very cheap quality. Clark’s are a big upgrade for sapphire and sternkreuz are one of the best plexi crystals. The Clarke’s single side AR for the submariners are really really nice. Makes the dial look way better.
5.3mm crown tube is m2.5x0.25
6mm crown is m3x0.30 but 0.35 will also work because a 0.30 tap is hard to find.
7mm crown is m3x0.35
8mm crown is m4x0.35