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The Ladies' Rolex thread...a guide to assembling a nice Franken (thread will be updated periodically)

dpd3672

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I love that the caseback in your cheap aliX cases could be used with a gen case. What a score!

I manage to ruin the keyless works in a big eta 2824, so I'm not wild about using a tiny a2671 -haha- but could a 20mm width rollie dial (for 26mm DJ) fit on a a2671 well in theory please?
I believe a gen dial can be used with a 2671, someone did that early in this thread, alhtough there were some issues to solve to make it work.

I chose the NH05 over the 2671 because it's a LOT cheaper (like $20 vs $80-100), just as reliable, and a lot less prone to issues during assembly, expecially with the keyless works.

I actually have a nice gen Tudor with a 2671 that's running well, but the click spring is missing (the watch stopped and I found the click spring floating around loose in the case). I'm actually afraid to try fixing it, because Google suggests the 2671 is a pain to work on, lol.

My impression is that the 2671 is basically a 2824, with all the same pros and cons, just roughly half the size, with a few quirks of its own (odd positioning of the click spring, for example). I think the 2671 is probably a better movement overall, but potentially a little harder to build a watch out of.
 

dpd3672

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This thread was such a huge pleasure to read. Thank you for making it!
I have a little scratched and missing some dial text 26mm DJ dial with diamonds that I really enjoy despite it's imperfections.
You putting a 26mm dial on an NH05 movement and it being a lovely fit got me thinking about how I could reuse my dial
(or whether I should give up and turn it into a keyring)
I noticed that a bigger sized 28mm DJ is being made by -little known to me- ASP factory. It has an NH05 movement. And wondered if I could attempt a dial swap on one of the 28mm ASP watches to put my 26mm dial in. It might fall through the rehaut for being too small. The dial also has a small step that surrounds it that might show, but I don't mind anything like that.

My query was whether or not a datewheel might line up. Notice how ALL the ASP factory DJs have a left-justified date. I wondered if my 26mm being smaller would mean the date window will shift to the left by 1mm, and show a more centred or right justified date.
I know the datefont would be wrong, the dial might have it's edges showing, the case will be based on the wrong model, etcetc. These things don't bother me. But I just wonder if it would be possible...!


My thought is you'd probably be better off using the 26mm dial you have in a 26mm case, using the AliX hands and either a NH05 or 2671 movement. You'd need a movement spacer, like the one I linked early in the thread.
 

dpd3672

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Also, an update that's come to mind.

With these builds, I use a 3D printed movement holder of my own design. Be advised, that 3D printed items are not the same as something machined out of metal to very precise tolerances, like a movement holder you'd get from Raffles or Helenrou...the material, printer, settings, etc all affect the final dimensions, so unless you're super lucky, the movement holder I shared here will almost certainly require some final fitting, as at least one member has found. The dial side might need to be sanded to move the stem into the right position to line up with the case...the opposite side might require some sanding to allow the case back to screw down fully. It's a bit of trial and error, so know what you're getting into.

I'm constantly tweaking the CAD model, so the most recent one might differ quite a bit from the last one I posted. Also, be advised that gen cases use different case backs as they evolved, so some might require more fitting than others.

This is the most recent design for a model with the date:

This is for no date models:
 

fnfalguy

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I tried my hand at building up one for the mrs., and after I started looking at 3d printers and squinting repeatedly at the 2671 movements, I sort of gave up for now. She will have to work with this one that came in today. From 1973. Is it too big for my hand? Have some replacement fat spring bars on order to see if that can tighten up the end links a bit.


 

McDuck888

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I'm not nearly half as smart as you guys. I'd not know how to print off spacers. I tend to make my own from gaskets and things - haha.
Oh yes, of course, thanks for reminding me - i'd read the whole thread very thoroughly but had forgotten one of you guys used a 2671. Thank you!
I'm not a fan of the aliexpress sourced cases for their very deep rehaut. And I'd be worried I'd not find hands without lume for the diamond dial, or get a nice little crown to fit etc. Everything else is great fun.

I'm considering trying to put a gen 26mm dial, in a GMF 28mm, with an a2671. I don't mind about the dial being too small to suit the watch by 1mm each side at all. I could remove any DWO that doesn't line up correctly and instead place a riyi 2671 overlay for 26mm case on the movement. Then I have the benefit of having correct length and style hands already, Holders already, ready made winding crown etc and won't have to source them, like you smart guys did. The watch will be totally out of character and style. It will look mental. But design chops are great fun! :) I wonder if it'd work or if I've lost my mind. Only time will tell.. I could make the dial into a small keyring for keeps instead, yet. ;)

Thank you so much for all of your really helpful, brilliant replies! I'll stop crashing your franken build page with my rubbish info now haha. Thank you!
 
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McDuck888

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(a total fantasy piece would come of it, IF it's possible to put together. So much would be 'wrong' about it, but I wonder if technically its possibly to physically put together. But mostly I don't know what on earth I am talking about and I just see how things go when the pieces are in hand)
 

McDuck888

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@MS00012 Hi, do you have any pics of your 26mm dial sat in a watch using the raffles overlay please? I'm asking for a big favour please, if you wouldn't mind too terribly. I'm sorry to read that the watch didn't feel like a total success for the eta being a fussy movement, and that you're seeking an NH05 though. That sucks.
 

MS00012

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@MS00012 Hi, do you have any pics of your 26mm dial sat in a watch using the raffles overlay please? I'm asking for a big favour please, if you wouldn't mind too terribly. I'm sorry to read that the watch didn't feel like a total success for the eta being a fussy movement, and that you're seeking an NH05 though. That sucks.
The raffles overlay is the correct size. It does not work well for the 2671 since there is a metal lip around the outside of the smaller original date wheel. I would advise not using a 2671 as it gave me nothing but problems. You basically have to make a spacer between the originoal date wheel and the overlay in order to clear the metal lip.
 
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MS00012

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Also, an update that's come to mind.

With these builds, I use a 3D printed movement holder of my own design. Be advised, that 3D printed items are not the same as something machined out of metal to very precise tolerances, like a movement holder you'd get from Raffles or Helenrou...the material, printer, settings, etc all affect the final dimensions, so unless you're super lucky, the movement holder I shared here will almost certainly require some final fitting, as at least one member has found. The dial side might need to be sanded to move the stem into the right position to line up with the case...the opposite side might require some sanding to allow the case back to screw down fully. It's a bit of trial and error, so know what you're getting into.

I'm constantly tweaking the CAD model, so the most recent one might differ quite a bit from the last one I posted. Also, be advised that gen cases use different case backs as they evolved, so some might require more fitting than others.

This is the most recent design for a model with the date:

This is for no date models:
Any chance you can add a lip that is the same circumference of the outside of the dial? RIght underneath where the dial snaps in? The current setup fits snugly on the dail, but is not as wide as the dial. I had to add that strip of duct tape in an earlier post to get more friction against the case.

Also, it might be a good idea to make the stem hole smaller. there really is not a good way to prevent the dial from rotating since the dial snugly held by the spacer. I added dial dots to the sides of the dial to try and keep it in place, but it still moved. Maybe a smaller stem hole would keep it more stable.
 

McDuck888

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Thank you for the advice @MS00012 .

Maybe a smaller stem hole would keep it more stable.
Also this, your words on maybe creating a smaller stem hole to make a movement move less in the case is a really cool/ interesting idea.
I like your ideas man.
 

MS00012

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Any chance you can add a lip that is the same circumference of the outside of the dial? RIght underneath where the dial snaps in? The current setup fits snugly on the dail, but is not as wide as the dial. I had to add that strip of duct tape in an earlier post to get more friction against the case.

Also, it might be a good idea to make the stem hole smaller. there really is not a good way to prevent the dial from rotating since the dial snugly held by the spacer. I added dial dots to the sides of the dial to try and keep it in place, but it still moved. Maybe a smaller stem hole would keep it more stable.
*EDIT there really is not a good way to prevent the MOVEMENT from rotating since the dial snugly held by the spacer.
 

McDuck888

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@MS00012 Yes, maybe not appropriate. BUT it is ingenious in the short term! And it sure made me smile. :D

I'm still tempted to see the unavoidable lip on the 2671 for myself. Against all advice. Surely I can dremel it off or something crazy in order to get a DWO in place. Or shorten the height of the original datewheel to support the DWO. Or does the DWO become an issue because the DWO is too wide to pass the lip? I'm not sure. Hold my beer... I want to try out all of the things! :p
Sorry guys. You're genuinely sharing good information and I just want to try these things out. I'll surely get some answers for myself soon. I will stop talking to myself in this thread heha! :)
 

McDuck888

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With GM Factory (datejust 28mm) adding a DWO to their asian 2671 movements. An overlay is possible, we know this at least.
 

McDuck888

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Right fellas, I've decided to thoroughly re-read this fabulously put together thread. Man, you cleaned up and left no crumbs when you detailed how you were going to attack a new build - it's fantastic! I'm so grateful for it and the one or two people who also contributed to it too.

I've also decided to attack my own thing from all angles because I love the real diamonds that sparkle in this slightly damaged dial too much to turn it into a poxy keyring just yet.
I also was gifted a free modern crystal for 26mm with AR behind the cyclops one time when I bought a big used sub crystal too so hopefully I could use that.


I bought a 26mm case not yet documented here to try out that takes 2671. We'll see if I can do anything with it at all.
I also have a very vintage (too old in style for my build but i'd love to use it anyway) Rlx bracelet.

SEPARATELY - I'd like to also like a GMF 28mm and see if I can work a DWO for 26mm (the 26mm raffles/riyi dwo is wrong font for 26mm it's more like 28mm font but i don't mind that) into the place of it's stock 28mm DWO. And see if anything will become of that for a nice little 26mm watch.

We shall see. If I finish anything soon, I'll update with pics. If I fail miserably, i'll have had a blast trying things out all the same. Thanks guys.
 

McDuck888

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Date discs causing you both problems makes me wonder if it's possible to build down rather than up. I wonder if I could take the 2671 date disc off. Grind off all the numbers on it's surface so it becomes just a thin metal shim effectively. Then thin the back of the DWO a little, and glue the DWO to the metal shim I will have created. Ver' unlikely, but I'll have to see. Looking forwards to getting some bits and pieces to try things out.
 

McDuck888

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I think all of your datewheel alignments and fonts are just fine, however they come. They're so tiny, in the flesh, that they can afford to be a bit different from gen and it still look mighty fine to me.
However, I've just noticed a 2135 date disc has numbers in the same direction as an ETA. I wonder if one of these could be reshaped and all the centre of it removed to work as a DWO. Will have to play with one.

 
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automatico

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I have a GEN vintage Rolex that my wife never wears. I bought it in 2010 on eBay for $570. Given how unpopular these small watches now are, I'm not sure it makes financial sense to build a Franken.

Yep, that's what I thought until I started on one after a 10 or 12 year space between the last one and now.

My condensed lady Rlx story:
My wife bought a new steel/jubilee/acrylic crystal lady quickset DJ from a Rlx AD years back by mail from another state (to dodge sales tax). It arrived in a few days and was a referb (!!), not new as it was supposed to be.
I called the AD and they said they were sorry (yeah, sorry that I caught it) and to send it back for an exchange.
The exchange watch arrived in a couple days running and on time. I did not examine it, just sized the bracelet, and away she went...until the 30 day month ended and I found the date to be SLOW SET. It was sold as a new acrylic crystal QS model (the referb was QS) but this one was a leftover slow set. There were a LOT of leftovers back then.
I called the dealer and told them about it. They said 'Sorry Charlie'' (like in Charlie the Tuna TV ads) but you have had it over two weeks so there is NO exchange. We had been screwed, glued, tattooed, steam rolled, and dry cleaned.
Time rocked on and the watch was (to put it mildly)...damnjunk. Two pro c/o and it still would not run overnight most nights. A pro watch watch mechanic in the local Rlx AD said "those things are junk, get rid of it." He was right.

I swapped it over to tutone using a genuine bezel, dial, hands, crown, and aftmkt SS/14K jubilee because my wife wanted a tutone by then. It looked better but it was still damnJunk...had to hand crank it every evening to get it through the night.
I finally swapped it to a jewelry trader friend for a tutone DJ oysterquartz (Junk for Junk Ha!) I thought I sold it to him but I looked it up and it was a trade.
He sold it 'as is' to a lady to wear while gardening and going to flower shows. She did not care if it ran or not, she just wanted it for jewelry.
A fine ending to that POS imho.

Time rocked on and I bought a new sapphire tutone NO DATE lady OP (from an honest AD) for my wife. She wore it for a few weeks, put it away, and it is still in the bank box years later, looks like new.
She wears an Apple watch.

In between her 'college watch' and the Apple watch, I bought her a couple Raymond Weil watches, a SS\18K quartz Lady Omega dive watch, three steel TAG Heuer lady divers etc. with NO trouble at all with any of them...all quartz.
Oh yeah...a replica steel Lady DJ with ETA 2671, sapphire etc. also no trouble at all.

Still have a few of the leftover (now nos) ETA 2671 powered SS lady DJ. All the case specs are OEM...dial diameter, bezels, case tubes etc. and I even bought a like new 18K bezel and new Italy made SS/14K jubilee to make a tutone out of one but never stuck it together. The SS/14K bracelet is the model with heavy (thicker, not solid) center links and the gold color is the same as the 18K bezel.

It never ends...
In a fit of stupidity, I bought a used genuine Rlx 69173 with cal 2135 in January 2020 just in case 'The Boss' wants another tutone Rlx with a date.
I heard the 2135 is Ok.
So far, So good, have not heard a peep about wanting another one.

Typos are free.
Rlx Lady watches, not so much...