The Ladies' Rolex thread...a guide to assembling a nice Franken (thread will be updated periodically)

[MS00012]

And as an update, after lots of minor tweaks, this is the movement holder that I'm using for the NH05 in a gen case with date:

3D design 26mm NH05 date 0716 - Tinkercad

3D design 26mm NH05 date 0716

www.tinkercad.com

Mostly the changes were to make the opening for the date wheel a bit more precise, so it's free to turn and has enough space to not interfere with the back of the dial.

Awesome write up! How did you get the DWO to attach to the existing Datewheel? Did you glue it or use a spacer?

For the two tone bracelet, here is what I recommend... Used gen bracelets are very expensive and are usually stretched quite a bit. I have one and it is far too floppy and screeched to be a daily wear for the wife. You can buy an aftermarket bracelet for $40 that is imitation gold color, but I spent a little more for the 14K gold plated one. This can be found on ebay or through raffles. I think it was $160 bucks. You can then add a gen clasp to it. I used the gen one I had with the floppy gen band on my origial build. But I actually just bought a better condition gen clasp on ebay through firery gems for $50ish at auction.

 

[dpd3672]

Awesome write up! How did you get the DWO to attach to the existing Datewheel? Did you glue it or use a spacer?

For the two tone bracelet, here is what I recommend... Used gen bracelets are very expensive and are usually stretched quite a bit. I have one and it is far too floppy and screeched to be a daily wear for the wife. You can buy an aftermarket bracelet for $40 that is imitation gold color, but I spent a little more for the 14K gold plated one. This can be found on ebay or through raffles. I think it was $160 bucks. You can then add a gen clasp to it. I used the gen one I had with the floppy gen band on my origial build. But I actually just bought a better condition gen clasp on ebay through firery gems for $50ish at auction.

I just used 30 minute epoxy, so I had plenty of time to get it exactly right before it set.

And yes, I'm going to probably go with a Raffles bracelet for this one, although I'll try a black leather or crocodile band to see if that looks good. I'm kind of a purist, and prefer dress watches on leather and tool watches on steel, but every watch is unique.

 

[MS00012]

I just used 30 minute epoxy, so I had plenty of time to get it exactly right before it set.

And yes, I'm going to probably go with a Raffles bracelet for this one, although I'll try a black leather or crocodile band to see if that looks good. I'm kind of a purist, and prefer dress watches on leather and tool watches on steel, but every watch is unique.

So no spacer needed?

My wife has (2) 69173 watches. I have one on 13mm brown leather crock band I got on ebay that you might like. I'll take a pic of it when I get home.

For 3d printing, I am about to order your design on craftcloud.com to get it printed. Should I just do PLA? They also have Nylon as the top choice with different textured finishes. What do you recommend?

 

[dpd3672]

So no spacer needed?

My wife has (2) 69173 watches. I have one on 13mm brown leather crock band I got on ebay that you might like. I'll take a pic of it when I get home.

For 3d printing, I am about to order your design on craftcloud.com to get it printed. Should I just do PLA? They also have Nylon as the top choice with different textured finishes. What do you recommend?

I mostly use PLA. It's plenty good for this application. I'd imagine whichever is cheapest is fine, since it's not really going to be subject to extremes of heat, and it's not really stress bearing.

 

[MS00012]

I mostly use PLA. It's plenty good for this application. I'd imagine whichever is cheapest is fine, since it's not really going to be subject to extremes of heat, and it's not really stress bearing.

Thanks! Did this not need a spacer between the dwo and the datewheel? I remember you said it was sunken originally.

 

[dpd3672]

Thanks! Did this not need a spacer between the dwo and the datewheel? I remember you said it was sunken originally.

No, I tweaked the dimensions a bit and it's a much better fit now. I tend to come up with the design, tweak it a dozen times until it works, then endlessly refine it until it's perfect. The last one I posted was probably the 20th revision or so, lol.

 

[MS00012]

No, I tweaked the dimensions a bit and it's a much better fit now. I tend to come up with the design, tweak it a dozen times until it works, then endlessly refine it until it's perfect. The last one I posted was probably the 20th revision or so, lol.

You are a legend man! Thanks so much for your hard work. I'm gonna print this spacer and build mine as I think I got all the parts in the mail now.

 

[MS00012]

Here is the 13mm crock strap I got on eBay. It is kinda short in length, even for my wife's small wrist.

 

[MS00012]

I just used 30 minute epoxy, so I had plenty of time to get it exactly right before it set.

And yes, I'm going to probably go with a Raffles bracelet for this one, although I'll try a black leather or crocodile band to see if that looks good. I'm kind of a purist, and prefer dress watches on leather and tool watches on steel, but every watch is unique.

When you glued the DWO to the date wheel, did you do that and let it set? Or did to put everything together and then try to adjust the overlay alignment after?

For the dial dots. Where exactly did you use those on the movement and holder? Was it on the sides of the holder and side of the movement?

 

[dpd3672]

When you glued the DWO to the date wheel, did you do that and let it set? Or did to put everything together and then try to adjust the overlay alignment after?

For the dial dots. Where exactly did you use those on the movement and holder? Was it on the sides of the holder and side of the movement?

For the DWO: I glued it, adjusted it until it was right (multiple test fits of the dial) then let it cure overnight before final assembly.

The dial dots were placed in the movement holder, on the side. There’s enough room that they should fit. I used one opposite the crown and on just a over it (like 9:00 and 2:00) but anywhere that isn’t near the balance wheel or stem should work.

This is still a work in progress, so there might be better ways, I just haven’t got there yet.

 

[dpd3672]

This one’s been stalled for a while now, finally got it finished. All Gen but the hands and movement. Now she has a “1016” of her own, lol.

 

[MS00012]

For the DWO: I glued it, adjusted it until it was right (multiple test fits of the dial) then let it cure overnight before final assembly.

The dial dots were placed in the movement holder, on the side. There’s enough room that they should fit. I used one opposite the crown and on just a over it (like 9:00 and 2:00) but anywhere that isn’t near the balance wheel or stem should work.

This is still a work in progress, so there might be better ways, I just haven’t got there yet.

Thanks man! Do you think Dial strips will work or will they be too big? That's what I currently have on hand.

I just got the 3d printed movement holders in the mail and will be starting this project soon.

Last question: the NH05 datewheel didn't have any raised lips around it that interfered with gluing the DWO directly to it did it? On the ETA 2671 there was a lip around the datewheel that you had to use an extra datewheel as a spacer to clear the lip before gluing the overlay to it.

 

[dpd3672]

Thanks man! Do you think Dial strips will work or will they be too big? That's what I currently have on hand.

I just got the 3d printed movement holders in the mail and will be starting this project soon.

Last question: the NH05 datewheel didn't have any raised lips around it that interfered with gluing the DWO directly to it did it? On the ETA 2671 there was a lip around the datewheel that you had to use an extra datewheel as a spacer to clear the lip before gluing the overlay to it.

No, it seems to be ok without any modifications

 

[MS00012]

No, it seems to be ok without any modifications

Just finished. Im not gonna lie. This project sucked! It was so damn hard. I also already had my crystal installed, so I had to put the hands on outside of the case. Maybe it was just my setup, but these hands didn't wanna go on! Took me several hours to get these things in correctly. They did not snap in too easily.

After putting it together, there is definitely some play in the movement holder in the case. Unless I did something wrong. Even taking out the crown to change time makes the movement flop around a bit. I also had my datewheel shift left once I installed the crown. Might have to play with that by cutting the stem shorter.

Hopefully the didn't mess up the movement with all this maneuvering. I got it on the watch winder and will see how it performs the next several days.

 

[dpd3672]

Just finished. Im not gonna lie. This project sucked! It was so damn hard. I also already had my crystal installed, so I had to put the hands on outside of the case. Maybe it was just my setup, but these hands didn't wanna go on! Took me several hours to get these things in correctly. They did not snap in too easily.

After putting it together, there is definitely some play in the movement holder in the case. Unless I did something wrong. Even taking out the crown to change time makes the movement flop around a bit. I also had my datewheel shift left once I installed the crown. Might have to play with that by cutting the stem shorter.

Hopefully the didn't mess up the movement with all this maneuvering. I got it on the watch winder and will see how it performs the next several days.

That looks great!
FWIW, in my experience, the tolerances for 3D prints are not super tight, so often, the dimensions of the movement holder sometimes need to be tweaked.

 

[MS00012]

That looks great!
FWIW, in my experience, the tolerances for 3D prints are not super tight, so often, the dimensions of the movement holder sometimes need to be tweaked.

This sounds horrible, but I might wrap a thin strip of duct tape around the holder. The slight thickness and grip might keep the holder in more securely. Let me know if you can think of a better ideas. Bc I am NOT gonna take off these hands again unless they fall off

 

[dpd3672]

This sounds horrible, but I might wrap a thin strip of duct tape around the holder. The slight thickness and grip might keep the holder in more securely. Let me know if you can think of a better ideas. Bc I am NOT gonna take off these hands again unless they fall off

Sometimes, little shims can help when fitting a movement into a case it wasn't designed for. I know a couple here have used zip ties, or aluminum foil, or something similar.
I sometimes have to print a few different holders, tweaking the dimensions, until one fits perfectly. 3D printers aren't super precise, sadly...or at least the low end ones that I use.

 

[MS00012]

Sometimes, little shims can help when fitting a movement into a case it wasn't designed for. I know a couple here have used zip ties, or aluminum foil, or something similar.
I sometimes have to print a few different holders, tweaking the dimensions, until one fits perfectly. 3D printers aren't super precise, sadly...or at least the low end ones that I use.

Thanks! Is your holder designed to be held in place by the caseback as well? I don't think mine has too much contact with the caseback.

 

[dpd3672]

Thanks! Is your holder designed to be held in place by the caseback as well? I don't think mine has too much contact with the caseback.

Yes, although it also needs some tweaking for each caseback...some are deeper than others.

 

[Yellowhammerwatches]

I’ve done a few of these myself. The all stainless for a customer looking to replace the same watch in gen that was stolen from her late mother. The other two for my wife. I’ve tried the date wheel overlay and it always ends up being more trouble than it’s worth. Would need a spacer of some sort to clear the dial I wager. The crystals aren’t typically well aligned with the date window either, but the beauty of these watches is THEY’RE TINY! Things that bug me under the loop I can’t easily see with the naked eye. I haven’t gotten around to adjusting the crystal alignment yet. I’m not even sure I have an appropriate die with my press anyway. Fun little watches. Super cheap Frankens to build.