McDuck888
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@TonyMontana Are you able to make a sales page in the sales section dude? Or not ready to commit to selling it just yet because it's super
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The Ladies' Rolex thread...a guide to assembling a nice Franken (thread will be updated periodically)
- Thread starter dpd3672
- Start date
Hard to tell from the video and photos, do you have better pictures of the case from different angles? Right off the bat, the rehaut looks SUPER deep on that one, although it might be the angles or the "proudness" of the bezel.
Will upload better pics later, these I hade taken a while ago. I'll put pictures of the whole set with hands.
Anyone interested in genuine 26mm rolex dials?
McDuck888
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Just ordered 5 minute epoxy to secure the datewheel thoroughly. Raising it up on dial dots just wasn't cutting it. I need it to sit lower really on epoxy. But will making it low mean that I hit the rim of the 2671..... all will be revealed, I'm sure. Doh!
seems like you making progress, which dial are you going with you have picture?
McDuck888
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This one https://streamable.com/87zquz
McDuck888
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That was the video of some diamonds @TonyMontana but it has some crazy colours in it's dial it close up too.
McDuck888
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Tomorrow I shall try to beautifully apply the DWO on a new swiss ETA with epoxy and hope it clears the 2671 movement's rim.
Either that or I'll need to epoxy a shim and epoxy sandwich to raise the datewheel overlay up high enough to clear the movement rim with success. - but I think that'll make the hands have a too-short base to be applied well and things might be just getting ridiculous. And I've not yet experienced any problems with this rim that one of you guys found difficult. Mines seems to be dial dots being too malleable and too little space under the dial for all the racket I placed below it.
Previously I'd been trying to apply the DWO to an asian 2671 and although every date fits beautifully, it was constantly shifting out of place from the crummy dial dots I'd bunched up and used. I'd even removed the a2671 lip/rim from the movement with a dremel (absolutely crazy. I would not have done that had the movement been a1, but the date function was useless on it even before I'd touched it).
Dremelling the rim off became a thing when I'd decided that my movement was too shoddy/ heading for the bin/ me wanting to get experimental.
Either that or I'll need to epoxy a shim and epoxy sandwich to raise the datewheel overlay up high enough to clear the movement rim with success. - but I think that'll make the hands have a too-short base to be applied well and things might be just getting ridiculous. And I've not yet experienced any problems with this rim that one of you guys found difficult. Mines seems to be dial dots being too malleable and too little space under the dial for all the racket I placed below it.
Previously I'd been trying to apply the DWO to an asian 2671 and although every date fits beautifully, it was constantly shifting out of place from the crummy dial dots I'd bunched up and used. I'd even removed the a2671 lip/rim from the movement with a dremel (absolutely crazy. I would not have done that had the movement been a1, but the date function was useless on it even before I'd touched it).
Dremelling the rim off became a thing when I'd decided that my movement was too shoddy/ heading for the bin/ me wanting to get experimental.
Intresting, seeing that you have used both China 2671 and eta 2671 what are the similarities and differences you experienced?
McDuck888
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Guys, I have a really amateur question. Ordinarily, I'm used to asian movements and me having a loose hour wheel that sits on the canon pinion, right?
But today I'm working with a genuine eta 2671, there is -no loose golden bronze hour wheel piece(?) that I am used to seeing.
I checked pics online of other's movements and none of the gen eta's seem to have that loose part. Do I not need to put an hour wheel on it please? or is it normal to not have that part going on?
But today I'm working with a genuine eta 2671, there is -no loose golden bronze hour wheel piece(?) that I am used to seeing.
I checked pics online of other's movements and none of the gen eta's seem to have that loose part. Do I not need to put an hour wheel on it please? or is it normal to not have that part going on?
McDuck888
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That picture I attached is of a random 2671 movement online to show what i'm working with similarly (my camera quality would have been terrible had I taken a photo of my own movement). And it looks 'without the kind of hour wheel i'm used to seeing'. I think I'm being very thick and perhaps it is not needed.
McDuck888
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I would like to add, if anyone's adding a DWO to their build, my goodness the joy of using a genuine ETA compared with the a2671. I spent as long as 4 hours trying to add the DWO to an asian movement. The date change was just unreliable. I just put the DWO on a genuine eta and I have a well-functioning datewheel instantly. The date change feels worlds apart from the asian movement. I feel very lucky. And highly recommend to anyone who's struggling to go gen ETA on the movement. World's apart!
McDuck888
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I've got a new hour wheel for ETA on the way to me. That should be a good start..... LOL!
I've got the datewheel overlay on beautifully but I'm really worried about the height of the hands being too short now. I know Riyi does some 'long post' hands that would probably suit the job great, but I wanted the hands to have some gen-like look. And I know riyi's hands are only with lume (i need plain ideally) and only quite short in their length on the dial in not making it to the minute markers/diamonds.
Massive respect to all you guys who've completed similar projects. Because it just feels very difficult for me.
I've got the datewheel overlay on beautifully but I'm really worried about the height of the hands being too short now. I know Riyi does some 'long post' hands that would probably suit the job great, but I wanted the hands to have some gen-like look. And I know riyi's hands are only with lume (i need plain ideally) and only quite short in their length on the dial in not making it to the minute markers/diamonds.
Massive respect to all you guys who've completed similar projects. Because it just feels very difficult for me.
respect
McDuck888
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I'm thinking about buying Riyi's longer (taller) post hands, removing the length of the hand so I'm just left with a stumpy post on the minute and hour hand, and then epoxying non-lume plain golden hands that are long enough in length to look genlike on the dial, into place. This is one crazy ride 
McDuck888
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Yikes, riyi no longer sells long post yellow gold 2671 hands for 26mm dj. HA!
I think I've 90% given up with this project. I've never had a tricky time modifying watches before. But this is terribly difficult without a good 2671 movement holder. etc.
I think I've 90% given up with this project. I've never had a tricky time modifying watches before. But this is terribly difficult without a good 2671 movement holder. etc.
McDuck888
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@dpd3672 Hi dude, Sorry for gatecrashing your lovely thread so much recently while I fell into difficulty with my 2671 plans. I'm half thinking about moving to NH05, but have a silly question. (as you can probably tell by all my posts, I'm not the sharpest tool in the box hehe)
Could you have used the NH05 stock movement holder with NH05, and somehow fitted that inside you 26mm case, or was there something wrong with doing that that made you instead create something yourself that would house the NH05 better in some way please?
Could you have used the NH05 stock movement holder with NH05, and somehow fitted that inside you 26mm case, or was there something wrong with doing that that made you instead create something yourself that would house the NH05 better in some way please?
No apologies necessary, your contributions certainly add to the body of knowledge, and the 2671 might ultimately be a better choice...I just passed on it because of the cost difference...it's about 3-4 times more expensive than the NH05, and at the time I started this project, I had no idea if it would be successful or just throwing money into a hole that ultimately wouldn't work.
Are you referring to the grey plastic ring around the NH05 movment, or the white plastic movement holder that comes with some of the NH05 cases?
I think I initially used the grey plastic holder, with modificaitons (I had to drill holes to accommodate the dial feet), but the movement needed to be moved in the case to line up the stem hole. Eventually, I just scrapped the grey plastic holder and 3D printed a movement holder from scratch, which wound up being a bit more secure.