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The Ladies' Rolex thread...a guide to assembling a nice Franken (thread will be updated periodically)

McDuck888

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I have a lovely 6517 case with bezel, tube and crown etc. Small query for anyone who's built with one of these older watch cases.. Is it normal for the tube to come into the inside of the case slightly? I don't see this with modern cases I've used. But with my 6517, the tube extends into the inside of the case? I don't imagine it being a problem though :/ Cheers!
 

dpd3672

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I have a lovely 6517 case with bezel, tube and crown etc. Small query for anyone who's built with one of these older watch cases.. Is it normal for the tube to come into the inside of the case slightly? I don't see this with modern cases I've used. But with my 6517, the tube extends into the inside of the case? I don't imagine it being a problem though :/ Cheers!
As long as it doesn't interfere with the movement or the rotor, it shouldn't be an issue.
 

McDuck888

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Thanks a lot bud!
I just took a look at it rather than writing from memory and it’s the crown itself that goes within the case. All is well.
 
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dpd3672

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Been working a LONG stretch of LONG days, so all my projects are withering on the bench, lol, but hoping to get back into building after the Holidays and knock out some 26 and 31mm builds, along with some other odds and ends.
 
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McDuck888

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I’ll be watching the thread. very excited to see even more of your super creations! I can’t believe the size difference between a 31mm and 26mm watch today. 26mm is a totally different beast! - looking forwards to trying to put this together in the coming days although I know it will be very tricky :)
 
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McDuck888

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@Sunry What are you going to use instead of the Deep crystal idea (because deep don't make a 31mm crystal) please? I hope you get a gorgeous crystal because it really makes the watch.

Also with your waterproofing plans are you going to get it with new gaskets to become above 5 bar or waterproofing? - The standard 3 bar is pretty useless that some people call 'waterproof', rainproof really.
 

dpd3672

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@Sunry What are you going to use instead of the Deep crystal idea (because deep don't make a 31mm crystal) please? I hope you get a gorgeous crystal because it really makes the watch.

Also with your waterproofing plans are you going to get it with new gaskets to become above 5 bar or waterproofing? - The standard 3 bar is pretty useless that some people call 'waterproof', rainproof really.
Is anyone really scuba diving wearing a 31mm Datejust?

We sometimes forget the purpose of these things, I think. I wouldn't go swimming even with a gen watch, since the chemicals in a pool, or the salt in an ocean, can destroy gaskets regardless of the depth rating.
 

McDuck888

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Is anyone really scuba diving wearing a 31mm Datejust?

We sometimes forget the purpose of these things, I think. I wouldn't go swimming even with a gen watch, since the chemicals in a pool, or the salt in an ocean, can destroy gaskets regardless of the depth rating.
:) I agree with you to the max. for sure. But when people pay their money to a modder for 'waterproofing' I think they deserve to get gaskets that are thick enough to have your watch worn in the shower if needed.
 

McDuck888

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@dpd3672 I've only once chosen to waterproof a datejust. But its not a priority for me because realistically I'd never wear it in water either :) I'm with you brother.
But when the customer requests waterproofing specifically, I just hope they get their money's worth, that's all I meant to say. A lot of modders seem to count 3 bar rating as waterproof - in my mind that is a rip off haha.
 

dpd3672

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To be honest, a watch would probably be safe to shower with even without any gaskets at all...the tolerances of the screw down crown and case back are probably enough to withstand splashing. Immersion to depth for extended periods of time is probably more of a concern, and even the deep end of a swimming pool doubles the pressure from sea level and can cause a watch to fail if there's any weak links in the water resistance "chain."

That said, I'm of the opinion that most reps of the quality discussed on these forums would handle day to day use and abuse, not including water sports of any kind (swimming, diving, etc).

As assembled from the factory, the tolerances are close enough, and the gaskets provided are of enough quality, to make most reps water resistant out of the box, probably even to recreational scuba diving limits. I've said this before, but a watch is just a fancy "box" that protects a watch movement. The only places where water can intrude is the crystal interface with the watch case, the case back, and the crown (assuming no complications like chronograph pushers, etc)...it's not going to permeate the steel itself.

So as long as the crystal isn't defective, or has gaps between it and the case, generally a gradual application of pressure would only actually it MORE watertight, until the point the crystal fails catastrophically. The pressure actually seals it to the watch body as pressure increases.

The case back and crown are tight enough (if screwed down) that the pressure is highly unlikely to defeat them.

In the real world, however, the reason gen watches fail water resistance at the crown or case back is usually due to damage, wear, or improper installation. Damage can be from dust, hair, sand, or dirt, or exposure to a harsh chemical. Salt water dries and leaves a salty, abrasive residue, and even the simple act of unscrewing the crown to set the time can cause a lot of damage to the crown/tube interface. A case back can pick up dust or dirt or hair every time the back is removed, which is why most places won't guarantee water resistance after a battery change unless it's tested again.

The reason that rep watches fail is all of the above, plus the chance that the crystal, back, or crown is installed improperly or missing pieces, especially the gaskets or whatever glue they might use for the crystal. I've had a few come without case back gaskets...one of the things we pay for with a gen is extremely high quality control. One of the reasons reps are so cheap is because their QC is probably just a guy giving a hundred watches an hour a quick once over, lol.

I'm willing to bet that most of the aftermarket "waterproofing" we pay for is just a pressure test to ensure there's nothing from the above going on, and/or the correction of whatever errors they find (like a new or undamaged case back gasket, for example).
 
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McDuck888

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I'm willing to bet that most of the aftermarket "waterproofing" we pay for is just a pressure test to ensure there's nothing from the above going on, and/or the correction of whatever errors they find (like a new or undamaged case back gasket, for example).
Absolutely.
I just want the lady to get her money's worth out of any modder who specifically agrees that "yes" they will do a waterproofing treatment on the watch, whatever that may be because I know it's unlikely that they will do a darn thing.

Thank you for so many words and all of your time DPD! :)
 
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McDuck888

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Practice run with a cheap spare dial is lining up beautifully. I don’t yet know whether I should use the mixture of different gen hands that I found to fit the 2671 movement, or whether I should shorten the length of the 2671 GMF (for larger 28mm watch) parts that I ordered. My gen ones just about fit in height but I wonder if the Gmf ones will have slightly taller posts since the Gmf whole watch uses a date wheel overlay, just as I am in this watch, and both need room for hand clearance when installed.

Hoping to have a complete watch to show you all in a week’s time from now.
 

dpd3672

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Practice run with a cheap spare dial is lining up beautifully. I don’t yet know whether I should use the mixture of different gen hands that I found to fit the 2671 movement, or whether I should shorten the length of the 2671 GMF (for larger 28mm watch) parts that I ordered. My gen ones just about fit in height but I wonder if the Gmf ones will have slightly taller posts since the Gmf whole watch uses a date wheel overlay, just as I am in this watch, and both need room for hand clearance when installed.

Hoping to have a complete watch to show you all in a week’s time from now.
Wow, you're off to a great start. Love those Buckley dials.
 

McDuck888

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@dpd3672 I'm so grateful you'd made such an informative, fantastic thread. I never imagined i could put together such a small watch for ladies.
 

dpd3672

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@dpd3672 I'm so grateful you'd made such an informative, fantastic thread. I never imagined i could put together such a small watch for ladies.
Happy to see such participation, and very thankful to those who have contributed, since I'm learning every bit as much as I've shared.

Honestly, these smaller watches are an amazing bargain, compared to Frankens of the bigger watches. How else can we cobble together an "all gen but the movement" Franken for ballpark of $200?!?

I've got cases for $100, dials for $10, and bracelets for $50 (although average is quite a bit higher). Add hands and a movement, and these are cheaper than most reps.
 
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Sunry

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@Sunry What are you going to use instead of the Deep crystal idea (because deep don't make a 31mm crystal) please? I hope you get a gorgeous crystal because it really makes the watch.

Also with your waterproofing plans are you going to get it with new gaskets to become above 5 bar or waterproofing? - The standard 3 bar is pretty useless that some people call 'waterproof', rainproof really.
Ummm great questions :unsure:

I have to ask the modder lol. I wasnt aware deep didnt come in 31mm. Thanks for watching out! I also want to get what I paid for haha. :)
 

McDuck888

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Today I removed the gen datewheel I had wanted to use an an overlay and put the whole thing together nicely as another test run. It leaves me with cartier's font numbers in the datewheel, which looks very similar to stardard ETA datewheel font - not what I fancied. I wish I could get that datewheel overlay to work but at the moment there isn't enough room behind the dial. It lifts everything up so tall that I wouldn't be able to apply the hands with a DWO. I plan to adapt my movement holder a little to see if I can better accommodate a DWO , and possibly buy riyi's dwo 2671 dwo because it might be physically thinner (being all paper) than my gen overlay with metal backing is.

I found riyi's two tone jubilee bracelet, 13mm, for a 26mm watch comes with endlinks which are actually much too small for a 26mm case lug width. He told me his factory makes them accurately at 13mm but this is not what I received. So I'm hunting for a nice bracelet too.
 

McDuck888

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Ah, I just noticed riyi's overlay also has a metal back plate. So I shall persist in trying to make the one I have work beautifully. This is such a tricky little project for me.
 

dpd3672

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Ah, I just noticed riyi's overlay also has a metal back plate. So I shall persist in trying to make the one I have work beautifully. This is such a tricky little project for me.
I tried photocopying a gen date wheel onto vinyl "paper" but didn't get far with it. It's an option to consider, however.
 
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