I'd think any mild abrasive would work. My grandfather used to use toothpaste on new gadgets to smooth out the inner workings. Fishing reels, stuff like that.
You just have to make sure you clean it off well when you're done.
-
Tired of adverts on RWI? - Subscribe by clicking HERE and PMing Trailboss for instructions and they will magically go away!
The 1016: The Under Appreciated Thread
- Thread starter ebzen02
- Start date
You just have to make sure you clean it off well when you're done.
Yes, you can use the current 6mm pendant tube and crown or drill and tap the case for the older 6mm crown with the larger pendant tube.
Having a damn hard time removing the crown tube from the 5517 project I'm working on (Raffles case). Jamming a round and/or square file in the hole isn't gripping enough, might have to use heat to break the epoxy/glue/loctite they used. Also working on a 5513 and 1680 at the same time, so was hoping to kind of "assembly line" the process, but stalled waiting for some of the parts to arrive.
Another project that's in the early stages is modifying a 2824 clone movement to take a gen Rolex dial without removing the feet. I THINK that it's possible to drill holes through the main plate of the movement that correspond to the dial feet and secure it that way, although I'm not certain...yet. I don't think my skills are up to moving the clamps, but just clearing the feet should be enough to keep the dial from rotating, and the case clamps should squeeze the dial between the movement and case, so it won't move in that direction. It's a work in progress. Just have to see if there's a clear path through the movement without interfering with any moving parts.
I broke the crystal removing the stupid wire/spring bezel, but that's just an excuse to upgrade. It's possible it was broken when it arrived, the damage was where it meets the case, hidden by the bezel assembly, but was planning on Clark's regardless.
Also looking, as a long-term project, into gathering multiple different versions of popular watches, and posting a comparison photos of each. I know it's been done before, but a lot of the threads are old, hard to find, or have photos that are broken links, or compare watches that have "evolved" since the original posts. Probably will do an Explorer and Sub to start, maybe a 1016 and 5500 Explorer, since I have the cases in gen and rep already, and maybe a 1680 or 5513 Sub, since I have those as well. Probably will do Raffles, Cartel, and Gen, maybe BP, TC, and generic AliX cases, and dials from Gen, Cartel, Raffles, Mochacha, Yuki, and DIY gilt dials to see what the differences are. It should help with case shaping and seeing which versions are easiest to do which mods on.
Again, this is a LONG term project, so hopefully will get started with what's available and add to it as I accumulate data. Not sure if it will be as popular as the newer comparisons, but we vintage junkies are a small, but passionate, group, lol.
It is indeed removeable. I used a broaching file inserted in to it. It was held by superglue I think but gave readily with a bit of force.
When I was ready to re-fit I used a dab on Thread Lock to secure it in place so my Crown did up roughly pointing upwards but that's not really necessary.
- 16/10/23
- 187
- 124
- 43
Oh yeah, it's exciting to come back to this thread after wandering around in 1603.
Did Raffles glue the tube? But isn't it a screw type? Why would they do that?
Did Raffles glue the tube? But isn't it a screw type? Why would they do that?
- 16/10/23
- 187
- 124
- 43
So, there's no real need to use thread lock, right? And there's no issue with aligning the crown?
It's interesting that Raffles designed it to be the same as the gen tube. Also do you use the Athaya 24-600 for the crown?
The first time the pendant tube unscrews as you are unscrewing the crown and you discover the wee bastard thing has locked tightly into your new genuine Rolex crown will leave you in no doubt whatsoever that blue locktite was invented by God.
But only use purple locktite on the winding stem/crown.
But only use purple locktite on the winding stem/crown.
- 16/10/23
- 187
- 124
- 43
Thanks. So I can connect the 2824 winding stem and gen crown with locktite.. Then how can I melt the locktite? Is there a solution for melting it?
Usually heat does it. Either use a cigarette lighter or touch a soldering iron to the parts directly. It doesn't need to get glowing red hot, and make sure there's nothing that will be hurt by the heat (ie, remove the gasket/seal/o-rings).
And remember - when you're cutting the stem to length always go a little too long and not too short - you can always nip off a bit more but you can't put it back! Mark up your cut with a felt tip pen on the thread.
File/ rub on sandpaper, the cut end smooth so it doesn't "eat" the internal thread of the crown when you screw it in.
the cut long and sand tuition has cost me 2 stems and one crown before I figured it out myself
Action_Jensen
Known Member
- 20/4/21
- 161
- 252
- 63
Yeah it is detatchable... unfortunately i have not extractet aone once without destroying it. Yes it can be replaced with a gen one but it is some work. You have to redrill and retab the original to 3mm finthread and then any 24 600 crown and tube will fit. For me the one from athaya works really well.
Action_Jensen
Known Member
- 20/4/21
- 161
- 252
- 63
Soo... i have maybe the same problem right now... my endlinks always "fall out" like in the picture... theese are some old 445bs from raffles ... you think i can bend/ file them down for a tight fit? what do i have to look out for? rattling is no problem but the fall out to the front ;/ or should i just get some 280 aftermarkets?But worth it as there is absolutely no movement in the end links or springbars.
The ebay flap sanding wheels I referenced in my earlier post were excellent for fitting the endlinks and kept a constant curve on the surfaces I removed metal from.
I am going for old and well used.
Gosh! there's a nice 1016 "rattle" and then there's that!Soo... i have maybe the same problem right now... my endlinks always "fall out" like in the picture... theese are some old 445bs from raffles ... you think i can bend/ file them down for a tight fit? what do i have to look out for? rattling is no problem but the fall out to the front ;/ or should i just get some 280 aftermarkets?
It looks like the internal tubes have become unwelded from the inside of the link - that happned to one of mine - I wouldn't say there's an awful lot you can do with that, but as ever, I will defer to greater Rlx Vintage minds than mine to solve.
Action_Jensen
Known Member
- 20/4/21
- 161
- 252
- 63
The tubes on the inside do not fit due to 2mm spring bars. I looked at pictures online and could not find any gen ones that had tubes on the inside so i assumed they were holding through some other means. But that actually might be the problem. One tube came loose so i broke the other one of.. i thought the Els fit just trough form
the research goes on
bronzefish
Do not accept unsolicited offers
- 7/1/14
- 9
- 11
- 3
That is what's done it there. There's not really anything you can do unless you have a tiny TIG welder to put those tubes back on!The tubes on the inside do not fit due to 2mm spring bars. I looked at pictures online and could not find any gen ones that had tubes on the inside so i assumed they were holding through some other means. But that actually might be the problem. One tube came loose so i broke the other one of.. i thought the Els fit just trough form
I'd ditch those end links and get new.
that weird. Now I am convinced that those bracelets are meant to wear loose. Which suits me fine as I like them looseSoo... i have maybe the same problem right now... my endlinks always "fall out" like in the picture... theese are some old 445bs from raffles ... you think i can bend/ file them down for a tight fit? what do i have to look out for? rattling is no problem but the fall out to the front ;/ or should i just get some 280 aftermarkets?
These are what I will be picking up next, as they seem heavier. The same mob also offer a heavier bracelet/clasp connection.
But holy crap...$44 US postage!
Ebay seller WSO
But holy crap...$44 US postage!
Ebay seller WSO