The 1016: The Under Appreciated Thread

[dpd3672]

Not QUITE a 1016 question, but since the Explorer experts are all present here, I have a question.

I'm having a hard time finding information that I trust on this, but I figured I'd ask the experts. I've got an old case set from a gen Air King 5500 (34mm), and thinking about building up a watch with an Explorer dial and hands. Rolex made a 5500 Explorer for a time, and I always liked the size of the 34mm case for daily, casual wear.

I would probably go with an ETA clone movement and rep dial and hands (possibly my first DIY gilt dial, depending on how they come out, but maybe just a Raffles or comparable to start).

I know on the Raffles site, they use a 27mm dial for their 34mm cases, and a 28.5mm dial for their 36mm cases. Rolex dials for 36mm watches are 26mm, IIRC, do they use a smaller dial in the 34mm cases, or are all of their 34mm/36mm dials the same size?

IE, can I use a Raffles 28.5mm Explorer dial in a gen 34mm case? It seems like worst case scenario, I'd just have to machine ~1mm around the perimeter of the Raffles dial, but maybe I'm missing something here...

 

[316lad]

Not QUITE a 1016 question, but since the Explorer experts are all present here, I have a question.

I'm having a hard time finding information that I trust on this, but I figured I'd ask the experts. I've got an old case set from a gen Air King 5500 (34mm), and thinking about building up a watch with an Explorer dial and hands. Rolex made a 5500 Explorer for a time, and I always liked the size of the 34mm case for daily, casual wear.

I would probably go with an ETA clone movement and rep dial and hands (possibly my first DIY gilt dial, depending on how they come out, but maybe just a Raffles or comparable to start).

I know on the Raffles site, they use a 27mm dial for their 34mm cases, and a 28.5mm dial for their 36mm cases. Rolex dials for 36mm watches are 26mm, IIRC, do they use a smaller dial in the 34mm cases, or are all of their 34mm/36mm dials the same size?

IE, can I use a Raffles 28.5mm Explorer dial in a gen 34mm case? It seems like worst case scenario, I'd just have to machine ~1mm around the perimeter of the Raffles dial, but maybe I'm missing something here...

I will definitely defer to people on this Thread far more expert than I - but I would say this; Ken at Raffles Dials can and does answer questions and he knows his cases, dials, etc.

Meanwhile, there's guys on here who absolutely know what's what on this - I am a comparative Noob when it comes to all things Explorer and if there's one thing I have learned here on this Thread - the Devil's in the detail.

 

[316lad]

I have finally pretty much finished polishing - 60 year old tool watch with lots of damage.
Movement going im tommorrow. I am rediculously excited.

 

[Karbon74]

This is why I love those vintage builds
I can mess up and then say "it's a feature by design"

 

[369mafia]

Not QUITE a 1016 question, but since the Explorer experts are all present here, I have a question.

I'm having a hard time finding information that I trust on this, but I figured I'd ask the experts. I've got an old case set from a gen Air King 5500 (34mm), and thinking about building up a watch with an Explorer dial and hands. Rolex made a 5500 Explorer for a time, and I always liked the size of the 34mm case for daily, casual wear.

I would probably go with an ETA clone movement and rep dial and hands (possibly my first DIY gilt dial, depending on how they come out, but maybe just a Raffles or comparable to start).

I know on the Raffles site, they use a 27mm dial for their 34mm cases, and a 28.5mm dial for their 36mm cases. Rolex dials for 36mm watches are 26mm, IIRC, do they use a smaller dial in the 34mm cases, or are all of their 34mm/36mm dials the same size?

IE, can I use a Raffles 28.5mm Explorer dial in a gen 34mm case? It seems like worst case scenario, I'd just have to machine ~1mm around the perimeter of the Raffles dial, but maybe I'm missing something here...

You could try and machine 1"" from the diameter of a dial but you will be getting quite close to the lume plots , etc Yuki offers the best selection of 5500 explorer dials to date. Mochacha has a few as well

Explorer dial

Explorer dial

www.yukiwatch.com

Have you considered a 6429 commando?
I heard through the grapevine that Raffles is working on a commando dial (with the help of yours truly)

This is mine with a raffles case set and Yuki dial (when they offered them )

 

[dpd3672]

You could try and machine 1"" from the diameter of a dial but you will be getting quite close to the lume plots , etc Yuki offers the best selection of 5500 explorer dials to date. Mochacha has a few as well

Explorer dial

Explorer dial

www.yukiwatch.com

Have you considered a 6429 commando?
I heard through the grapevine that Raffles is working on a commando dial (with the help of yours truly)

This is mine with a raffles case set and Yuki dial (when they offered them )

Thanks, some other options to look into.

 

[pullthat92]

Can anyone give me the link to the t21 crystal seller? Old links don't work

 

[369mafia]

Can anyone give me the link to the t21 crystal seller? Old links don't work

Crystal Ref. # 25-21 Tropic 21 For Rolex "CLARK" crystals | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Crystal Ref. # 25-21 Tropic 21 For Rolex "CLARK" crystals at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!

www.ebay.ca

 

[dpd3672]

Why, oh why, can’t the Chinese make a 15xx clone movement?

 

[pullthat92]

Crystal Ref. # 25-21 Tropic 21 For Rolex "CLARK" crystals | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Crystal Ref. # 25-21 Tropic 21 For Rolex "CLARK" crystals at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!

www.ebay.ca

Thanks!

 

[pullthat92]

Here is the first build plan I came up with after reading most of this thread:

T21 crystal 40$
WSO bezel 44$
Yuki dial 100$
Raffles case 49$
Raffles hands 15$ or Yuki hands 18$
Eta clone 50$

~~Total 301USD
+ the cost of carving the rug at a local watch shop.
Please let me know if this combination has any compatibility issues or if there is a better way.

..I wish all the parts could be magically assembled

 

[1675lover]

 

[316lad]

Here is the first build plan I came up with after reading most of this thread:

T21 crystal 40$
WSO bezel 44$
Yuki dial 100$
Raffles case 49$
Raffles hands 15$ or Yuki hands 18$
Eta clone 50$

~~Total 301USD
+ the cost of carving the rug at a local watch shop.
Please let me know if this combination has any compatibility issues or if there is a better way.

..I wish all the parts could be magically assembled

Plenty of members in the M2M area who will assemble this for you.

Supporting Vendors

forum.replica-watch.info

As for the lug-carving I'd ask a couple of people I've met on this thread if they'd be prepared to do it.

 

[pullthat92]

Plenty of members in the M2M area who will assemble this for you.

Supporting Vendors

forum.replica-watch.info

As for the lug-carving I'd ask a couple of people I've met on this thread if they'd be prepared to do it.

Assembling service? That's interesting. However I don't even live in the United States and considering that my spending would go too high, I'm trying to assemble myself like the other members of this thread.

 

[316lad]

Assembling service? That's interesting. However I don't even live in the United States and considering that my spending would go too high, I'm trying to assemble myself like the other members of this thread.

I'm glad to hear it. That is the point of these watches - that you make, re-shape and assemble something that you have made. Something you can be proud of.

 

[phatkat]

Pullthat92, interested in how things go. Looking to start a similar first build after lurking for a while.

I am a little apprehensive about having a branded dial. Are there any recommendations for high quality dials without branding?

 

[Karbon74]

Pullthat92, interested in how things go. Looking to start a similar first build after lurking for a while.

I am a little apprehensive about having a branded dial. Are there any recommendations for high quality dials without branding?

hi, the branded dial is a bit the whole point, with the work in cases to get them to look like an original

If you don't go that way, I would suggest to get a Pagani PD1751, and age it.

else you can get unbranded dials at helenarou

 

[automatico]

Making/reshaping smooth bezels:

"A lathe would make it a breeze."

True. There is really not much of a way to cut round parts without a lathe. I've been using a Sherline 'MM' lathe (MM = metric hand wheels) for the past 25+ years and it has paid for itself a few times over. I had some bezel blanks made out of common 316L seamless steam tubing ($1 a pound scrap price) and cut the blanks down for odd size bezels, but for most projects I use Startime smooth 36mm sapphire crystal DJ bezels and reshape them. I use sapphire DJ bezels because they are taller and can be used for many projects. I also had some blanks made out of 904 seamless tubing (free!) but 316 is what I use almost all the time.
Also have a Sherline milling machine but do not use it nearly as often as the lathe. It is good for cutting reliefs in cases for crowns etc. but they are basically not necessary.

"I know on the Raffles site, they use a 27mm dial for their 34mm cases, and a 28.5mm dial for their 36mm cases. Rolex dials for 36mm watches are 26mm, IIRC, do they use a smaller dial in the 34mm cases, or are all of their 34mm/36mm dials the same size?"

All 36mm DJ dials are 27.9mm and 5500 AK dials are 26.9 to 27.0mm...so go with 27mm.

This thread has a 34mm 'explorer' made out of a Rolex 1003:

Rolex Wristies thread

rwg.cc

Have a 34mm 1002 with the same type of Yuki 'explorer' dial and it has a 1570 in it. They look exactly the same and the 1002/1003 cases are the same as a 5500 AK.

This thread has a pic of my last '1016' project and a '5513' with Seiko quartz movement:

Rolex Wristies thread

rwg.cc

(I was 'Jimmythree' when starting out on RWG in 2007 but changed it to the present name when a forum glitch killed my 'J3' ID. Went back to 'J3' for a while when I had computer problems)

 

[dpd3672]

Making/reshaping smooth bezels:

"A lathe would make it a breeze."

True. There is really not much of a way to cut round parts without a lathe. I've been using a Sherline 'MM' lathe (MM = metric hand wheels) for the past 25+ years and it has paid for itself a few times over. I had some bezel blanks made out of common 316L seamless steam tubing ($1 a pound scrap price) and cut the blanks down for odd size bezels, but for most projects I use Startime smooth 36mm sapphire crystal DJ bezels and reshape them. I use sapphire DJ bezels because they are taller and can be used for many projects. I also had some blanks made out of 904 seamless tubing (free!) but 316 is what I use almost all the time.
Also have a Sherline milling machine but do not use it nearly as often as the lathe. It is good for cutting reliefs in cases for crowns etc. but they are basically not necessary.

"I know on the Raffles site, they use a 27mm dial for their 34mm cases, and a 28.5mm dial for their 36mm cases. Rolex dials for 36mm watches are 26mm, IIRC, do they use a smaller dial in the 34mm cases, or are all of their 34mm/36mm dials the same size?"

All 36mm DJ dials are 27.9mm and 5500 AK dials are 26.9 to 27.0mm...so go with 27mm.

This thread has a 34mm 'explorer' made out of a Rolex 1003:

Rolex Wristies thread

rwg.cc

Have a 34mm 1002 with the same type of Yuki 'explorer' dial and it has a 1570 in it. They look exactly the same and the 1002/1003 cases are the same as a 5500 AK.

This thread has a pic of my last '1016' project and a '5513' with Seiko quartz movement:

Rolex Wristies thread

rwg.cc

(I was 'Jimmythree' when starting out on RWG in 2007 but changed it to the present name when a forum glitch killed my 'J3' ID. Went back to 'J3' for a while when I had computer problems)

Thank you

 

[phatkat]

hi, the branded dial is a bit the whole point, with the work in cases to get them to look like an original

If you don't go that way, I would suggest to get a Pagani PD1751, and age it.

else you can get unbranded dials at helenarou

A fair point, I will probably swap over the dial at some point or just get a raffles dial.

A+ response Karbon thank you!