How have you ruined them?
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The 1016: The Under Appreciated Thread
- Thread starter ebzen02
- Start date
Spares readily available here;
I've messed up the keyless works on both from pushing the crown release too hard. can't learn from my own mistakes apparently
Umm, the keyless in the 2824 is definitely the Archille's heel. And particularly with clone movements as manufacturing and assembly are just not quite good enough to set everything up correctly.
My usual MO is to replace the Setting lever Jumper and strip and re-assemble carefully checking for burrs (also very common on clones) on any of the components.
As says @369mafia
NH38 or NH35 for date
Raffles carries hands for those and the movements should fit a 2824 case
It’s time for you to learn how to reset those
You had written them off anyway, so you don’t lose anything…and when you finally succeed, it’s one of the proudest moments in life (I kid you not)
And if you are anywhere near as old as me, get out the +3 reading glasses as they really help.It’s time for you to learn how to reset those
You had written them off anyway, so you don’t lose anything…and when you finally succeed, it’s one of the proudest moments in life (I kid you not)
the important thing is the screwdriver to press the crown release system...don't use the tips of the pliers, the system is designed to be used only by the screwdriver so as not to do any damage I'll show you how many cheap broken 2824 I have on my tableIt’s time for you to learn how to reset those
You had written them off anyway, so you don’t lose anything…and when you finally succeed, it’s one of the proudest moments in life (I kid you not)
? and in any case I confirm that resetting the keyless system, if you learn it, is one of the most satisfying things you can do - not very difficult, but a great pain in the ass
for reference:
Yes impact stamps is place the stamp and hammer once, not easy at all to get it nicely aligned, its an art form in itself
Chassis numbers for oldtimer cars are impact stamped, for example. Hence my experience with them *cough*
Maybe and just maybe, I could get a large stamp made with the arch and letters aligned consequently. So one impact would stamp the whole Rolex S A arched text, for example. But I'm not sure if that's possible for the factory, and it would not be the exact same way Rolex did it originally, I think they used a separate stamp for each letter given the inconsistency in placement/stamp sometimes.
I have a friend who used to do a lot of pantograph engraving as well as impact stamping and first, he would put a strip of thin transparent 'Scotch tape' over where he wanted the stamped numbers, same as when using a pantograph engraver. Next, he would very, very lightly stamp the first number on the tape to make sure it was where he wanted it. The last move was to whack! the punch with only as much force as needed to make the indention. After the indention has been made in the part, it is easy to re-stamp the number if it needs to be deeper.
The next number would be made the same way using the tape to align and space the next number with a very light impact that basically only marks the tape.
If number punches can be found with the correct size and font, it would not be too hard to make a guide for the stamps.
I have some number punches more or less the correct size but the stems are square and it would be a hassle to turn them down in a lathe to make them round (to fit into a staking tool) because the steel is hardened. Besides that, they are too wide to mount together as/is to make a set of Rlx type numbers.
Otoh, maybe the stems could be ground thin enough (keeping them square) to be fastened together to make a four digit stamp. Never tried it but another friend has a high tech laser welder and he could weld them together if I ever got them thinned down.
The problem is he runs and hides when he sees me walk into his shop.
After the number punches are found and a stamping method is developed, the next problem will be stamping the numbers with enough force to make a good indention but not dimple the outside of the case back. Having back supported on a hard, flat surface will help a lot.
Stamping and stomping ain't the same thing...
Raffles Brown Tropical Dial review.
Installed to a raffles case with 1016l bezel and T21
The lume was a bright yellow so I dulled it down with some acrylic white paint that I tinted with ochre to give it a lighter tone. Most tropical dials you see. have white or lightly toasted lume. the print is crisp and relatively accurate for a mk4 gilt dial.
sadly I dont have his first tropical dial on hand to do a comparison so I have to snag his pics.
copper red tropical
darker brown tropical dial
The hands are not a perfect match to the dial lume as I just swapped the dial in the watch and they were close enough.
First impressions?
the dial is beautiful . I prefer the color more than his first reddish tropical dial . this one looks closer to my ideal of a fully tropical dial. The color in my pics does not do it justice and looks kinda flat and muddy and a bit reddish. I would prefer a bit less red in the brown colour and a touch more yellow and blue.
It looks good but to me it still is missing something.... I may try and give it a coat of gloss clear coat to see if that helps the colors pop a bit more. I also feel like I want to add some aging to the dial surface with some air brush paints like I have done in the past to show the degradation of the black finish and the golden tones appearing from beneath.
Anyway I wanted to share these pics of phase one before
a few gen examples that will inspire the next steps.
In order for the dial to become tropical it needs to be exposed to UV (among other factors) for an extended period of time , This does not happen if it is sitting in a drawer or vault. The lume darkens when it kept in the dark for a period of time and that is generally the opposite of a tropical dial. Although it has been know that a dial turns tropical and then the watch is retired to a drawer where the lume starts to change. a lot can happen in 50+ years.
as always feedback welcome.
Installed to a raffles case with 1016l bezel and T21
The lume was a bright yellow so I dulled it down with some acrylic white paint that I tinted with ochre to give it a lighter tone. Most tropical dials you see. have white or lightly toasted lume. the print is crisp and relatively accurate for a mk4 gilt dial.
sadly I dont have his first tropical dial on hand to do a comparison so I have to snag his pics.
copper red tropical
darker brown tropical dial
The hands are not a perfect match to the dial lume as I just swapped the dial in the watch and they were close enough.
First impressions?
the dial is beautiful . I prefer the color more than his first reddish tropical dial . this one looks closer to my ideal of a fully tropical dial. The color in my pics does not do it justice and looks kinda flat and muddy and a bit reddish. I would prefer a bit less red in the brown colour and a touch more yellow and blue.
It looks good but to me it still is missing something.... I may try and give it a coat of gloss clear coat to see if that helps the colors pop a bit more. I also feel like I want to add some aging to the dial surface with some air brush paints like I have done in the past to show the degradation of the black finish and the golden tones appearing from beneath.
Anyway I wanted to share these pics of phase one before
a few gen examples that will inspire the next steps.
In order for the dial to become tropical it needs to be exposed to UV (among other factors) for an extended period of time , This does not happen if it is sitting in a drawer or vault. The lume darkens when it kept in the dark for a period of time and that is generally the opposite of a tropical dial. Although it has been know that a dial turns tropical and then the watch is retired to a drawer where the lume starts to change. a lot can happen in 50+ years.
as always feedback welcome.
Thanks for the link. I have always pulled the stem out to the winding position on the ETA before removing it, and had my heart in my mouth as I pressed the crown release. So far I've been lucky and avoided disaster. However, after reading similar comments earlier in this thread, I tried an NH38 and it is a dream - I wouldn't go back to the ETA clone. The stem removal is very simple and it fits the Raffles case with no spacer required. It also doesn't have the ghost position if you don't have a date window, and runs just as it arrived at +4 seconds a day.the important thing is the screwdriver to press the crown release system...don't use the tips of the pliers, the system is designed to be used only by the screwdriver so as not to do any damage I'll show you how many cheap broken 2824 I have on my table
and in any case I confirm that resetting the keyless system, if you learn it, is one of the most satisfying things you can do - not very difficult, but a great pain in the ass
for reference:
I think the nh38 is a slightly slower beat movement too, so closer to gen....
@1016 lover has outdone himself
Watch case has accumulated quite the miles...
China -> Belgium -> USA (@newest dude on the forum) -> Belgium (and in the future -> Italy -> Belgium)
Wow, quite a journey - wish i was accompanying it.
@1016 lover has outdone himself
Watch case has accumulated quite the miles...
China -> Belgium -> USA (@newest dude on the forum) -> Belgium (and in the future -> Italy -> Belgium)
Looks outstanding.