Pardon my ignorance, but how did you get from Pic 1 to Pic 2 without leaving paint on the dial? Does it just wipe away without staining/leaving a permanent mark anywhere but the markers?You have a Yuki dial there. Go easy or you'll ruin it. They are fragile (paint/ finish/ lacquer) to say the least.
Best advice - put it one side. Order a Raffles dial - in white - and get to work. Raffles dials are proper bomb-proof - you can make mistakes, rub it out, start again, etc.
They are the perfect canvas to begin your mastery of dial-ageing.
Start around Page 1 of the Thread where it gets down and dirty into dials.
Personally, this is my approach:
And somehow, after all the confusion - we got here:
Start at Page 1 or so:
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The 1016: The Under Appreciated Thread
- Thread starter ebzen02
- Start date
On a Raffles, the dial is bullet proof, on a yuki you need to be very very precise.
Also, I give you all a trick of mine that I discovered in experiments. Nail art brushes are absolutely perfect for dial jobs
Nail art brush makes a ton of sense. I tried using an oiler with acrylic paint (which I'd read somewhere here in the thread - maybe 369mafia?) and I wasn't skilled enough to get it where I wanted it.On a Raffles, the dial is bullet proof, on a yuki you need to be very very precise.
Also, I give you all a trick of mine that I discovered in experiments. Nail art brushes are absolutely perfect for dial jobs
Circling back to the Raffles dial - essentially, you don't need to worry about "painting within the lines" on the numbers/markers, so to speak? You can let it bleed over the edge and everything will wipe up?
The Raffles dial can be pebble-dashed and still have a good base underneath to retrace your steps and start again.
Karbon is giving me grief about my process because he stole his children's water colour pencils to do his dial so just ignore him.
Also, he steals his wife's makeup to do dial-ageing as well.
Though we've all done that.
Whatever it takes.
Yes. But only water color. Acrylic will stick.
But personally, i do micropainting, so it does not spill much
You have a Yuki dial there. Go easy or you'll ruin it. They are fragile (paint/ finish/ lacquer) to say the least.
A wrong move on the Yuki, it may be just the brush of a finger and the dial is ruined.
Very good advice.
Best advice - put it one side. Order a Raffles dial - in white - and get to work.
Very, very good advice.
I have scratched my share of dials, both replica and genuine over the years. My advice is to practice setting/aligning hands over and over using a low $$ dial until the mistakes go away.
Refinishing markers etc. is another story...one I am not familiar with (afraid to try it).
I generally use a tweezer type hand puller with a layer or two of 'Saran Wrap' (plastic wrap) or watch paper between the dial and hands.
Also good to practice resizing hands without damage to the hands. I use a round screw-down hand clamp with watch paper between the upper side of the hands and metal jaw to hold the hands without damage using small hand broaches on some hands (usually M hands) and small, fine, slightly tapered round files for larger hands.
For SS hands, usually a 'broach' made from a needle polished down in diameter a few mm up from the tip and 3 flats made on it with a smooth knife sharpening stone.
When I screw a SS hand up (hole too big), I squeeze the tube down slightly with the appropriate collet in an old 'WW' lathe by gently tightening the draw bar. I've got pretty good at this. Ha!
Also, I give you all a trick of mine that I discovered in experiments. Nail art brushes are absolutely perfect for dial jobs.
And somehow, after all the confusion - we got here:
Super fine job on the markers/numbers!
Just stop working and watch this 1016 video on loop for the rest of the day.
I looked at it for about one minute, then I remembered when a 1016 was about $300 new at the local AD in the early 1970s and very good used examples were still 'only' $1500 or so in the late 1980s.
Examples: The first 1675 I bought used was $375 (1997) and the last one (2007) was $825. Look at 'em now.
Btw...I looked at a nos Yuki '1016' dial from 10 or 12 years back in my parts and compared it with one of Raffles' latest '1016' dials and there is really not much difference (to me anyway). So...I would go with a Raffles dial.
As for using a very good genuine used original or service dial on one of these projects...someone will always 'call you out' so a replica dial is just fine with me. Years ago no one paid attention to a 1016, 5512, 1655 etc. but now all the watchnuts carry a 10X loupe and a bright flashlight.
My last '1016' project used a genuine Rlx 162xx case and it suits me fine. I never got around to cutting the groove in the back of the case by the case back though.
I can't find it anyway...
Hand vise: eBay item number 203241808394 Priced too high imho, can be found for $25+/- at watch shows, yard sales etc.
Cheapo substitute: eBay item number 365017420676 Probably work just fine, I ordered one to try.
Tweezer type hand puller: eBay item number: 146010372642 Mine is a Vigor brand, probably 30+ years old. Just about have to use plastic wrap or paper to protect the dial though and the jaws have to be sharp and smooth.
Typos are free.
A wrong move on the Yuki, it may be just the brush of a finger and the dial is ruined.
Very good advice.
Best advice - put it one side. Order a Raffles dial - in white - and get to work.
Very, very good advice.
I have scratched my share of dials, both replica and genuine over the years. My advice is to practice setting/aligning hands over and over using a low $$ dial until the mistakes go away.
Refinishing markers etc. is another story...one I am not familiar with (afraid to try it).
I generally use a tweezer type hand puller with a layer or two of 'Saran Wrap' (plastic wrap) or watch paper between the dial and hands.
Also good to practice resizing hands without damage to the hands. I use a round screw-down hand clamp with watch paper between the upper side of the hands and metal jaw to hold the hands without damage using small hand broaches on some hands (usually M hands) and small, fine, slightly tapered round files for larger hands.
For SS hands, usually a 'broach' made from a needle polished down in diameter a few mm up from the tip and 3 flats made on it with a smooth knife sharpening stone.
When I screw a SS hand up (hole too big), I squeeze the tube down slightly with the appropriate collet in an old 'WW' lathe by gently tightening the draw bar. I've got pretty good at this. Ha!
Also, I give you all a trick of mine that I discovered in experiments. Nail art brushes are absolutely perfect for dial jobs.
And somehow, after all the confusion - we got here:
Super fine job on the markers/numbers!
Just stop working and watch this 1016 video on loop for the rest of the day.
I looked at it for about one minute, then I remembered when a 1016 was about $300 new at the local AD in the early 1970s and very good used examples were still 'only' $1500 or so in the late 1980s.
Examples: The first 1675 I bought used was $375 (1997) and the last one (2007) was $825. Look at 'em now.
Btw...I looked at a nos Yuki '1016' dial from 10 or 12 years back in my parts and compared it with one of Raffles' latest '1016' dials and there is really not much difference (to me anyway). So...I would go with a Raffles dial.
As for using a very good genuine used original or service dial on one of these projects...someone will always 'call you out' so a replica dial is just fine with me. Years ago no one paid attention to a 1016, 5512, 1655 etc. but now all the watchnuts carry a 10X loupe and a bright flashlight.
My last '1016' project used a genuine Rlx 162xx case and it suits me fine. I never got around to cutting the groove in the back of the case by the case back though.
I can't find it anyway...
Hand vise: eBay item number 203241808394 Priced too high imho, can be found for $25+/- at watch shows, yard sales etc.
Cheapo substitute: eBay item number 365017420676 Probably work just fine, I ordered one to try.
Tweezer type hand puller: eBay item number: 146010372642 Mine is a Vigor brand, probably 30+ years old. Just about have to use plastic wrap or paper to protect the dial though and the jaws have to be sharp and smooth.
Typos are free.
Guys,
I am having an issue on a watch,
For some reason the stem is coming out of the movement
I haven’t opened it yet, but I am curious to hear you on why this could happen? Maybe a bad quality stem? Or a part on the keyless?
This is a 5513 build I made last year which worked perfectly until recently
I am having an issue on a watch,
For some reason the stem is coming out of the movement
I haven’t opened it yet, but I am curious to hear you on why this could happen? Maybe a bad quality stem? Or a part on the keyless?
This is a 5513 build I made last year which worked perfectly until recently
I am going to say probably a combination of factors.
possibly loose tolerances on the stem/ parts
the detent part in the keyless may be sticking and it is not going back into position in the groove on the stem to hold it in place.
EDIt on and for future use. this thread is for 1016 only. go find a 5513 thread to cry about your problems. we have enough problems here without you cross posting
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A rebuilding of the keyless works should fix it - You know you enjoy that particular task so much anyway -
Check the Setting Lever Spring is fully engaged on the Yoke - it can slip off - releasing pressure on the Stem Removal Pin.
Me . . . put a sapphire crystal . . .on a 1016 . . . at my age . . . with my reputation . . . SACRILEGE!!! I hear you cry.
(A tempoary measure whilst awaiting yet another T21 - after another botched attempt to re-shape one resulted in the enevitable shatter.)
(A tempoary measure whilst awaiting yet another T21 - after another botched attempt to re-shape one resulted in the enevitable shatter.)
Have you (or anyone) tried a GS PA464-64C? Over on the sister forum, automatico stated that it is the same height as gen:
https://rwg.cc/topic/119926-looking-for-a-1016-case/?do=findComment&comment=862441
Also, besides the Truedome D22 (which is expensive), there is also one from Lobtime for $70:
https://lobtime.com/shop/ols/products/1016crystal
Besides general feedback on these options, I am curious if anyone knows whether any of these 3 might fit a Raffles or Vietnam case.
Umm, interesting. I shall check those out. I know about the Truedome D22.
Our problem remains the Raffles rehout height and even though it can be reduced on the lathe the T21 internal Outer Dia is such that the reduction would render the rehaut height just far too shallow. You press the bezel - you squash the T21 against the outer lip of the rehaut - it's not in contact with the flat of the case. It's an interesting problem to solve; Reduce rehaut height - yes, it looks more gen - but you can't reduce it to only the Inner height of the T21 or it looks way too shallow.
What Sherlock Holmes would have desribed as "A two-pipe problem".
Makes sense, thanks for the explanation! (Love the Sherlock Holmes reference; he definitely would have been a 1016 man.)
For anyone looking for a GS PA464-64C, they are available at Startime (forgot to post a link):
https://www.startimesupply.com/merc...Code=PA464-64C&Category_Code=1G-ByBrand-GS_PA