The only thing that might explain it is that he has officially issued pad print casts from the Brands
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The 1016: The Under Appreciated Thread
- Thread starter ebzen02
- Start date
Does anyone here know about the technical side of ETA 2824-2 clones?
I've had a bit of a shocker...
Got a lovely HKPT PT5006 (2824-2) straight from the manufacturer, only to realise it's two hands, not three.
Presumably, because it's an ETA clone, to convert it to three hands would simply mean changing ETA 227 and 242 (Fourth Wheel; Cannon Pinion).
Anyone knowledgable know if this is correct?
I've had a bit of a shocker...
Got a lovely HKPT PT5006 (2824-2) straight from the manufacturer, only to realise it's two hands, not three.
Presumably, because it's an ETA clone, to convert it to three hands would simply mean changing ETA 227 and 242 (Fourth Wheel; Cannon Pinion).
Anyone knowledgable know if this is correct?
I would get another ETA and swap the keyless.
Also agree. It’s too much work for little gain.
Better use the PT into a build without seconds hand
Better use the PT into a build without seconds hand
LHOOQ
I'm Pretty Popular
- 4/4/09
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Nothing missing--you're correct! I don't know if there's a better aftermarket supplier of ETA Submariner hands these days. But back then, this was the best way of sourcing a handset that matched the dimensions and the convexity of the Rolex Sub's. Cheaper than cannibalizing a good 16610 rep, at least.
Update - I botched the PT5006 / 2824-2 lol.
Was going so well, then the third wheel broke.
I meant I was hoping he had a source for cheap hands that looked genuine. And then he wrote "gen Tudor Sub hands." Not exactly cheap in my eyes.
LHOOQ and I went down the same rabbit hole about the same time. Looks like we both stayed down in the rabbit hole. Ha!
We are forum friends from way back.
My first '1016' was completed in January 2008, a list of the parts:
Genuine 162XX case with lug holes drilled and ST sapphire bezel cut to accept a 25-22 crystal. Everything else was left as it came.
Genuine tritium 1016 dial, genuine trit hands from a previous project.
Freshly c/o 1570 hack movement.
Genuine oyster bracelet from an earlier DJ.
Wore it for a while and removed the 1570 in December 2010.
Put a JMB '1016' together later with ETA 2824 main plates and 2846 escapement for a 21,600 beat rate. The replica dial came from 'Stilty' on RWGcc (got 3 of them, they are pretty good). My JMB cases were made for a 2824 and a 2836/46 was too thick so I needed a 'combo' movement.
Wore it a few times and sold the cases to an RWGcc member (had 2 cases).
Stuck the 2824/2846 combo movement etc. in the Rlx 162XX '1016' case a few years ago and still wear it now and then.
Note: I bought some of these 'lug hole' cases about 25 years ago when traders were having the 3135 movements converted to D-D and putting them in aftmkt 18K cases. I modified one 162XX case to accept a Rlx 3035, traded one in on a Rlx 1003 (now a 34mm 'explorer' with 1560), and still have 3 originals plus the one I wear and the modified case.
The 'like new' cases were around $135 to $150 each back then, now they go for $1K and up in ratty condition.
If I stick another '1016' together it will be:
A 'like new' 162XX case with same type of bezel/crystal etc. as the one I wear.
Freshly c/o 1570 hack.
Note: I'll probably use a date movement and remove the date works but leave the slightly taller canon pinion and hour wheel to give a little more space between the dial and H hand. Only difference between date and no date 15xx is date movements have the letter 'D' at the front of the serial number plus taller CP/H wheel and date works. Btw, you see a lot of no date 1016 etc. for sale with 'D' (date) movements claiming to be 'all original'.
NOS 'tritinova' 1016 dial with quality aftmkt hands.
WSO hoods with folded oyster bracelet from Mary.
Why use the 162XX case? Because everything fits and they are water resistant. These cases are WR to 100M with a high quality 25-22 crystal and properly fitting bezel etc...99M deeper than I'll ever need. They are also pretty close to the 1016 profile, at least close enough for me. A 160XX case is also good for these projects but they will not accept a no date 1520/30/60/70, they will accept a 1570/75 date movement with the date works removed and the date wheel spacer left on, or an ETA 2836/2846. The 162XX cases are also a hair thinner and have an O ring case back gasket where the 160XX cases have a flat gasket. The case necks are exactly the same diameter.
Typos are free.
We are forum friends from way back.
My first '1016' was completed in January 2008, a list of the parts:
Genuine 162XX case with lug holes drilled and ST sapphire bezel cut to accept a 25-22 crystal. Everything else was left as it came.
Genuine tritium 1016 dial, genuine trit hands from a previous project.
Freshly c/o 1570 hack movement.
Genuine oyster bracelet from an earlier DJ.
Wore it for a while and removed the 1570 in December 2010.
Put a JMB '1016' together later with ETA 2824 main plates and 2846 escapement for a 21,600 beat rate. The replica dial came from 'Stilty' on RWGcc (got 3 of them, they are pretty good). My JMB cases were made for a 2824 and a 2836/46 was too thick so I needed a 'combo' movement.
Wore it a few times and sold the cases to an RWGcc member (had 2 cases).
Stuck the 2824/2846 combo movement etc. in the Rlx 162XX '1016' case a few years ago and still wear it now and then.
Note: I bought some of these 'lug hole' cases about 25 years ago when traders were having the 3135 movements converted to D-D and putting them in aftmkt 18K cases. I modified one 162XX case to accept a Rlx 3035, traded one in on a Rlx 1003 (now a 34mm 'explorer' with 1560), and still have 3 originals plus the one I wear and the modified case.
The 'like new' cases were around $135 to $150 each back then, now they go for $1K and up in ratty condition.
If I stick another '1016' together it will be:
A 'like new' 162XX case with same type of bezel/crystal etc. as the one I wear.
Freshly c/o 1570 hack.
Note: I'll probably use a date movement and remove the date works but leave the slightly taller canon pinion and hour wheel to give a little more space between the dial and H hand. Only difference between date and no date 15xx is date movements have the letter 'D' at the front of the serial number plus taller CP/H wheel and date works. Btw, you see a lot of no date 1016 etc. for sale with 'D' (date) movements claiming to be 'all original'.
NOS 'tritinova' 1016 dial with quality aftmkt hands.
WSO hoods with folded oyster bracelet from Mary.
Why use the 162XX case? Because everything fits and they are water resistant. These cases are WR to 100M with a high quality 25-22 crystal and properly fitting bezel etc...99M deeper than I'll ever need. They are also pretty close to the 1016 profile, at least close enough for me. A 160XX case is also good for these projects but they will not accept a no date 1520/30/60/70, they will accept a 1570/75 date movement with the date works removed and the date wheel spacer left on, or an ETA 2836/2846. The 162XX cases are also a hair thinner and have an O ring case back gasket where the 160XX cases have a flat gasket. The case necks are exactly the same diameter.
Typos are free.
Guys,
Dunno if you have the same experience
I have several instances of 0 messages accounts asking me for reservations
Smells super fishy
Dunno if you have the same experience
I have several instances of 0 messages accounts asking me for reservations
Smells super fishy
Have gotten those as well. I just don't sell to them.
Please report this stuff. This kind of reports end up in a ban a lot of the times and make up for a high percentage of the scammers we catch.
I sometimes can't tell the difference between scammers and simply new members who want Moonswatches, but I guess that's the job of RWI staff to figure out.
Very nice thread here from @NCRich
Thread '1950's Watch Build Tutorial - Milgauss and 6204'
https://forum.replica-watch.info/threads/1950s-watch-build-tutorial-milgauss-and-6204.7698352/
I liked the tape on dial for lume
Thread '1950's Watch Build Tutorial - Milgauss and 6204'
https://forum.replica-watch.info/threads/1950s-watch-build-tutorial-milgauss-and-6204.7698352/
I liked the tape on dial for lume
@316lad
14060M mod taking shape
Correct case diameter
Correct bezel, correct insert, correct crystal
Reshaped lugs (too much
) Drilled 1.3mm holes
Now I need to glue on the crystal and fit
Who's experienced with the coffee dial patina method?
Just did a dry and wet run with a raffles 6610 and, whilst the patina on the numbers is great, the dial itself has some no-so-great marks on its face.
Any idea how I can remove these?
Rodico?
Or does one just go with it?
Just did a dry and wet run with a raffles 6610 and, whilst the patina on the numbers is great, the dial itself has some no-so-great marks on its face.
Any idea how I can remove these?
Rodico?
Or does one just go with it?