The 1016: The Under Appreciated Thread

[316lad]

Been dying to do this forever. It was more of a pain in the ass than I anticipated, but it works!



(it's a watch dial feet soldering machine)

Fine for blanks yet to be done but I'd be frightened about heat damage on a completed dial.
I like the epoxy-resin method - done correctly it's as strong as soldering method. You do end up with a flat base piece but it can be all but filed away when the epoxy has set.

Interested to see your results as well as I'm always looking at way to improve processes.

 

[Karbon74]

Fine for blanks yet to be done but I'd be frightened about heat damage on a completed dial.
I like the epoxy-resin method - done correctly it's as strong as soldering method. You do end up with a flat base piece but it can be all but filed away when the epoxy has set.

Interested to see your results as well as I'm always looking at way to improve processes.

you mean that you glue the circular base on the back of the dial? would you have some pics of the process?

 

[1675lover]

there are plenty of videos out there

skip to the 37minute mark

 

[316lad]

you mean that you glue the circular base on the back of the dial? would you have some pics of the process?

That's right. I use West System 105 - once that's stuff has set it ain't moving!
No pics but these are feet I bought.
You can see it's not ideal if clearance between base and dial is critical.

 

[316lad]

Ah, yes. He's got a miller for the dial feet bases. That would improve matters immeasurably if not give a few moments of stress - particularly with gen or rare!

 

[Karbon74]

I saw a video of a guy using this.
He also had some sort of tool to shave a circular sink to fit the base into the dial

 

[1016 lover]

Bought mine on Ali

https://a.aliexpress.com/_EHENFJ7

 

[dpd3672]

Fine for blanks yet to be done but I'd be frightened about heat damage on a completed dial.
I like the epoxy-resin method - done correctly it's as strong as soldering method. You do end up with a flat base piece but it can be all but filed away when the epoxy has set.

Interested to see your results as well as I'm always looking at way to improve processes.

IT doesn't really generate that much heat. I use low temp solder, which melts at about 140-180 degrees C. The heat is concentrated at the point where the dial foot (brass wire) meets the dial, and I stop it as soon as the solder melts. In practice, the first few attempts have gone ok. Going to test it for real with some of the dials I made to see what happens.

 

[316lad]

IT doesn't really generate that much heat. I use low temp solder, which melts at about 140-180 degrees C. The heat is concentrated at the point where the dial foot (brass wire) meets the dial, and I stop it as soon as the solder melts. In practice, the first few attempts have gone ok. Going to test it for real with some of the dials I made to see what happens.

Great. Sounds good. Will definitely switch to this method. Lovely looking piece of machinery too.

 

[316lad]

Bought mine on Ali

https://a.aliexpress.com/_EHENFJ7

A good copy of the Horotec one - which probably costs about $300 - and does exactly the same thing completely but just has Horotec written on it.

 

[dpd3672]

A good copy of the Horotec one - which probably costs about $300 - and does exactly the same thing completely but just has Horotec written on it.

This was ~$50, give or take. It would probably be much less if I had used stuff I had around the house, but I bought everything from Amazon because I didn't want to go on a scavenger hunt in my house, lol.

All you really need, at the bare minimum, is some kind of housing (even a cigar box would do), some wire (speaker wire would work), a source of power (some use doorbell transformers, I used a DC adapter) and some of the hardware to secure everything (some screws and one of those cheap, Chinese "third hands) worked for me). I can put together a parts list of what I used, but there's a LOT of room for interpretation.

 

[dpd3672]

I think I have my dial process mostly dialed in, too. Now it’s just a matter of printing a dozen or so and choosing the best to use in a watch. I was struggling to get the detail on the extremely small, thin font on the Everest dial, but I’m almost there (and if you look closely at the gen photo, it looks like Rolex struggled with the same thing, lol). Going to try luming a couple of these and see how they turn out.

Then it’s on the the bold, red “Everest” text, which I think I’m going to have to pad print…so a whole new learning curve, lol.

Original:



And the latest batch:

 

[Karbon74]

I have a crucial question...
when does the shop open?



my Railmaster dial is not going to make itself !

 

[dpd3672]

I have a crucial question...
when does the shop open?



my Railmaster dial is not going to make itself !

Give me a few days, I'll print up some "rough drafts" and see what needs improving.

 

[dpd3672]

I have a crucial question...
when does the shop open?



my Railmaster dial is not going to make itself !

If you have some really good art, please post it or send it in a PM. I've got these, but neither one is terribly high res, and the better the source material, the better the finished product. These look very pixelated if you zoom in on them.

 

[Karbon74]

I died a little inside...

 

[1675lover]

is there a new rule to sales?
was trying to post in the m2m forum but i dont see any new thread button.

 

[Karbon74]

is there a new rule to sales?
was trying to post in the m2m forum but i dont see any new thread button.

you need to be Certified

 

[316lad]

I died a little inside...

You'll kill us all.

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[Karbon74]

I am buying a viet bracelet witb 80 endlinks
this fits the Raffles case, yes?