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The 1016: The Under Appreciated Thread
- Thread starter ebzen02
- Start date
We have to see pictures - that's the rules in the 1016 brotherhood.note for myself: no delicate work in the sunday afternoon after I fried my arms at the gym in the morning. Zero fine muscular control
This JKF dial is driving me crazy. 
You know the feeling when you have something good already but it's not exactly how you want it?
I probably need to relume the thing.
Need to order some NoctiL some time.
I am ordering the Raffles 26mm 5517.
You know the feeling when you have something good already but it's not exactly how you want it?
I probably need to relume the thing.
Need to order some NoctiL some time.
I am ordering the Raffles 26mm 5517.
I'm alright thanks.
Karbon - you're right about delicate work after rough work. I was clearing leaves and on ladders up trees much of this morning and this afternoon have managed to knacker up a Seiko movement for exactly the same reason.
I felt that way a bit about my recent changes to my 6610 dial I think I may have gone to far but after sleeping on it. it looks like a proper 70 year old watch now. best thing to do is to stop and sit with it for a few hours or days and then determine how you feel about it. I built my 6610 in April. however I am finally finished with it in Feb.This JKF dial is driving me crazy.
You know the feeling when you have something good already but it's not exactly how you want it?
I probably need to relume the thing.
Need to order some NoctiL some time.
I am ordering the Raffles 26mm 5517.
I find that using oilers and diluted water based paints are the easiest to work with and the most forgiving
I think I need indeed to do like you. Assemble the watch and see how the thing blends together.
You just reminded me of my 5513. I hated that bezel insert at first and ultimately, this is what gives its charm to me.
Re: Trusty Time '1016 with blind lugs:
"Just this is a deal breaker already.
Drilling bare lugs is a major hassle."
For sure.
I have a miniature milling machine and have not had good luck drilling blind lugs. I start the holes with a 'ball end' mill bit (they do not walk as bad) but it is still a HUGE hassle. Besides that, getting the holes centered in the lugs is another problem.
JMB on the other hand, was very good at it.
"I would love to learn how to do a full service.
Still far away from my skill level. Handling the jewels terrify me."
Some things that can cause BIG trouble when working on mechanical watch movements:
1...Losing/flipping parts. It took me all afternoon to find a flipped mainspring barrel arbor a while back.
2...Breaking delicate pivots etc. Balance staffs and pallet arbors for example.
3...Tangled/bent hairsprings. I HATE hairsprings with a Purple Passion.
4...A hundred and one other things.
5...Worst of all -- NO PARTS!
Tips:
1...Keep ALL the parts to each watch together in one can or box. Do not separate them.
2...Take pictures of calendar assemblies etc. before taking them apart if you are not familiar with the movement.
Example: vintage A. Schild day and date movements (QS date, slow set day of the week), a real hassle, hope you never see one.
3...Get a large glass dome to cover the parts when taking a break. I use an old cake server top that is about 10 inches across and 5 inches high with a knob made on top. Also have a few smaller domes (three inches across, one and a half inches tall), made out of clear glass bowls with cabinet knobs glued on top for autowind assemblies etc.
Movement cleaning info:
www.watchrepairtalk.com
"Just this is a deal breaker already.
Drilling bare lugs is a major hassle."
For sure.
I have a miniature milling machine and have not had good luck drilling blind lugs. I start the holes with a 'ball end' mill bit (they do not walk as bad) but it is still a HUGE hassle. Besides that, getting the holes centered in the lugs is another problem.
JMB on the other hand, was very good at it.
"I would love to learn how to do a full service.
Still far away from my skill level. Handling the jewels terrify me."
Some things that can cause BIG trouble when working on mechanical watch movements:
1...Losing/flipping parts. It took me all afternoon to find a flipped mainspring barrel arbor a while back.
2...Breaking delicate pivots etc. Balance staffs and pallet arbors for example.
3...Tangled/bent hairsprings. I HATE hairsprings with a Purple Passion.
4...A hundred and one other things.
5...Worst of all -- NO PARTS!
Tips:
1...Keep ALL the parts to each watch together in one can or box. Do not separate them.
2...Take pictures of calendar assemblies etc. before taking them apart if you are not familiar with the movement.
Example: vintage A. Schild day and date movements (QS date, slow set day of the week), a real hassle, hope you never see one.
3...Get a large glass dome to cover the parts when taking a break. I use an old cake server top that is about 10 inches across and 5 inches high with a knob made on top. Also have a few smaller domes (three inches across, one and a half inches tall), made out of clear glass bowls with cabinet knobs glued on top for autowind assemblies etc.
Movement cleaning info:
Cleaning / De-Greasing Techniques - including cleaning products
Discussing cleaning and de-greasing of watch movements including products used
www.watchrepairtalk.com
For blind lugs, I did it once.
Freehand with a 0.8mm (as long as it is smaller than the existing hole) from the inside until I pierce through, just a bit to get the spot for the purchase
Then, back to the drill press with 1.0mm to recenter the hole, and then usual.
But it's not a pleasant job.
Freehand with a 0.8mm (as long as it is smaller than the existing hole) from the inside until I pierce through, just a bit to get the spot for the purchase
Then, back to the drill press with 1.0mm to recenter the hole, and then usual.
But it's not a pleasant job.
Last edited:
Good! Aim high, then if you fall a little short, it's still pretty great!
"Sunday Night Kitchen Shot Club"
Sorry - movement out for Regulating following Service and bezel and T21 both off for further work...but it is a 1016....and that is tarragon and mustard potato puree....
Enjoy!
Sorry - movement out for Regulating following Service and bezel and T21 both off for further work...but it is a 1016....and that is tarragon and mustard potato puree....
Enjoy!
I'm iron deficient, so this should be perfect."Sunday Night Kitchen Shot Club"
Sorry - movement out for Regulating following Service and bezel and T21 both off for further work...but it is a 1016....and that is tarragon and mustard potato puree....
Enjoy!
I'm sorry, having over a 36mm Explorer in this thread is a bannable offense.
It does look really, really good.
Too big for my littel ballerina wrist though.
They do a 36mm right?
I'm struggling not to buy this;
Explorer 124270 36mm 904L Steel KRF 1:1 Best Edition Black Dial on SS Bracelet A2824 - InTimeWatch
Explorer 124270 36mm 904L Steel KRF 1:1 Best Edition Black Dial on SS Bracelet A2824
www.intime06.co
Cancel that;It does look really, really good.
Too big for my littel ballerina wrist though.
They do a 36mm right?
I'm struggling not to buy this;
Explorer 124270 36mm 904L Steel KRF 1:1 Best Edition Black Dial on SS Bracelet A2824 - InTimeWatch
Explorer 124270 36mm 904L Steel KRF 1:1 Best Edition Black Dial on SS Bracelet A2824
This;
Explorer 124270 36mm 904L Steel Clean 1:1 Best Edition Black Dial on SS Bracelet VR3230 - InTimeWatch
Explorer 124270 36mm 904L Steel Clean 1:1 Best Edition Black Dial on SS Bracelet VR3230
www.intime06.co