Hoping to finish one of the ones in the queue tonight...maybe some of the 5500 Explorers with the 34mm cases.
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The 1016: The Under Appreciated Thread
- Thread starter ebzen02
- Start date
In the queue for the weekend is a full revision of a NH38 - which I have not done before - so it's going to be a good weekend - perhaps with some bad language floating up from the bench now and again.
Some days I suspect that sailors and dockworkers could learn a few new words from any serious watch builder.
I come from a long line of sailors so I know how to swear so that will make it doubly worse.
In the mean time - being unhappy about "letting water" during today's testing of the 1016 I have completely dismantled the 2824-2.
So that will add to the variety of the bad language . . .actually, TBF, the build is really good.
I just found out that there's a Cartel 1016. Emailed Trusty to see if it's available with a 2813, as it would be neat for comparison purposes (Marv has told me no 2813 Cartel watches for the last 6 months...sigh).
ROLEXP1012B - Exp 1 Ref. 1016 Orig SS/SS Black Swiss 2836 [ROLEXP1012B] - $328.00 : Trusty Time Watch, Your Trusty Watch Shop
Trusty Time Watch ROLEXP1012B - Exp 1 Ref. 1016 Orig SS/SS Black Swiss 2836 [ROLEXP1012B] - MOVEMENT: Swiss ETA 2836-2 Automatic (Also available in Asia 2813 21J Automatic or Asia ETA 2836-2 25J Automatic) CASE DIAMETER: 37mm THICKNESS: 13mm DIAL COLOR: Black Matte Dial with Numerals & Sticks...
trustytime888.io
ROLEXP1012C - Exp 1 Ref. 1016 Orig Patina SS/SS Black Swiss 2836 [ROLEXP1012C] - $328.00 : Trusty Time Watch, Your Trusty Watch Shop
Trusty Time Watch ROLEXP1012C - Exp 1 Ref. 1016 Orig Patina SS/SS Black Swiss 2836 [ROLEXP1012C] - MOVEMENT: Swiss ETA 2836-2 Automatic (Also available in Asia 2813 21J Automatic or Asia ETA 2836-2 25J Automatic) CASE DIAMETER: 37mm THICKNESS: 13mm DIAL COLOR: Black Matte Dial with Numerals &...
trustytime888.io
I would love to learn how to do a full service.
Still far away from my skill level. Handling the jewels terrify me
Honestly Karbon, based on what I’ve seen of your work here you’re well up to the challenge. And remember the jewels are probably the strongest elements of the movement and you don’t really touch them apart from to clean them out with Pegwood.
It’s just about being meticulous, I’m not having distractions.
This is what I started with this afternoon all cleaned and ready for reassembly and tonight it’s ticking merrily away and I will get it on the time for tomorrow.
thank brother.
I did try recently to replace a balance bridge on a Vostok...and I trashed it.
The main issue I have is that I don't have a set workbench. I do that in my home office desk, and I have to set up everything each time.
Next year I will probably move to a new place so I will set up better. I almost bought a new place a month ago, just because it was owned by an artist...and it had a fully blown manual workspace in the basement
My wife vetoed as the rzst of the house was not so great
I did try recently to replace a balance bridge on a Vostok...and I trashed it.
The main issue I have is that I don't have a set workbench. I do that in my home office desk, and I have to set up everything each time.
Next year I will probably move to a new place so I will set up better. I almost bought a new place a month ago, just because it was owned by an artist...and it had a fully blown manual workspace in the basement
My wife vetoed as the rzst of the house was not so great
You do need a dedicated little space - if only so that you can walk away from it for a while if it's giving you a headache and your concentration has frayed - and then come back to it with everything set up as it was before. But honestly - Dry to Dry service from disassembly to finished reassembly only takes an afternoon these days. The satisfaction of destroying and then rebuilding and getting good Timegrapher readings is a buzz.thank brother.
I did try recently to replace a balance bridge on a Vostok...and I trashed it.
The main issue I have is that I don't have a set workbench. I do that in my home office desk, and I have to set up everything each time.
Next year I will probably move to a new place so I will set up better. I almost bought a new place a month ago, just because it was owned by an artist...and it had a fully blown manual workspace in the basement
My wife vetoed as the rzst of the house was not so great
I learned on the Vostoks and Molnija pocket watches. They are terrfic starter platforms (apart from some of the bizarre shims they used when machines were wearing out and beyond calibration)
If you can strip one of those and put it back together in a day - then you can do anything else - apart from Chronographs - they're just plain difficult - especially when they're vintage as all parts have worn unevenly.
Dive in with a cheapo NH36 Seiko off Ebay for $30.
What have you got to lose?
One episode of Nekkid Watchmaker on You Tube convinced me that chronographs aren't worth the trouble and risk...too many moving parts, many of which are hard to source. I'm smart enough to leave some things to the experts, lol.
But while I'm still not a master watchmaker, I'm finding myself digging deeper and deeper into the basic, 3 hand manual or automatic movements.
I've torn them down and put them together, going farther each time, but have yet to completely disassemble, clean, and reassemble one. I'm halfway there...I have one completely stripped...but need a solid afternoon before I commit to putting it back together. Probably one with a bottle of bourbon, lol.
One nice thing about these Asian movements...you can buy 10 of them for $200 and have lots of reference pieces for if you get stuck, lol. I group it with the cost of tools to learn the craft.
Yep. Fully agree. I have a couple of old chronos in boxes and I like them to stay there!
On the subject of learning; The bonus is that when you spend some time pulling Asian and Russian movements to pieces and putting them back together when you do get your hands on Swiss stuff - you quickly realise it's a whole lot easier - simply because it's better metallurgy, production-standards and tolerances and, as a result; far easier to work on. In fact, a joy to woek on.
The Watchmaker never stops learning and I have much to learn . . .
I was chatting with Manodeoro on the same thing.
He started by doing simple mods, and now has delved into movement...and of course his spectacular dials
He started by doing simple mods, and now has delved into movement...and of course his spectacular dials
I started out on vintage movements. My first was a hand wound simple 3 hander AS movement from the pre ETA days I got from a Titus Mumbai Special on ebay for $15. Wouldn't have thought they put an old swiss workhorse in there.
Having a dedicated space is a must though if you're going the service route. I converted a spare bedroom into a little workshop.
It seems very daunting in the beginning but take a picture every time you remove something or have a video camera going and you'll get it back together no problem. You just have to go slow and be meticulous as @316lad said.
As for a good starting movement, the ST3600 is perfect. $25 and it's based on a pocket watch movement. Larger parts and no complications.
Having a dedicated space is a must though if you're going the service route. I converted a spare bedroom into a little workshop.
It seems very daunting in the beginning but take a picture every time you remove something or have a video camera going and you'll get it back together no problem. You just have to go slow and be meticulous as @316lad said.
As for a good starting movement, the ST3600 is perfect. $25 and it's based on a pocket watch movement. Larger parts and no complications.