I am not an approved vendor here. Just sharing my works!
You can contact Oascom, NYWatchservice, and others on this forum.
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PsychoTee's Repair & Servicing Journey
- Thread starter PsychoTee16
- Start date
I am not an approved vendor here. Just sharing my works!
You can contact Oascom, NYWatchservice, and others on this forum.
- 19/1/16
- 4,408
- 5,060
- 113
if i might suggest store those separately :
Noted my man! Ill put them in the second level to avoid scratching. Or put them in one of the plastic containers I have.
Morning everyone (At least here in the USA)!
Some more pictures from yesterday evening's festivities. I really need to get a nice LED light for my workspace...lighting is a bit lacking at night! Anyway, on to the pictures, and again I'm trying to share more pics of oiling locations. Any comments are welcome!
Mainspring installed in the barrel. I like to use 8213 on the barrel wall, and two small dabs of 9504 on the spring before I close her up.
Next up is installing the barrel, barrel bridge, and winding bridge.
After those items, I like to install all the going-train and it's bridge. I also apply Epilame the seconds wheel and escape wheel. Make sure the going-train wheels are free and moving correctly before tightening this bridge down.
Next up is the remaining of the winding and click system. Also make sure you ensure the sliding gear is moving back and forth freely whel you engage the stem for winding. If it is properly greases, there should be no issues.
That's it for today. We should finish up this 3185 this evening, then on to testing it for a couple of days. Stay tuned!
Some more pictures from yesterday evening's festivities. I really need to get a nice LED light for my workspace...lighting is a bit lacking at night! Anyway, on to the pictures, and again I'm trying to share more pics of oiling locations. Any comments are welcome!
Mainspring installed in the barrel. I like to use 8213 on the barrel wall, and two small dabs of 9504 on the spring before I close her up.
Next up is installing the barrel, barrel bridge, and winding bridge.
After those items, I like to install all the going-train and it's bridge. I also apply Epilame the seconds wheel and escape wheel. Make sure the going-train wheels are free and moving correctly before tightening this bridge down.
Next up is the remaining of the winding and click system. Also make sure you ensure the sliding gear is moving back and forth freely whel you engage the stem for winding. If it is properly greases, there should be no issues.
That's it for today. We should finish up this 3185 this evening, then on to testing it for a couple of days. Stay tuned!
Last edited:
- 19/1/16
- 4,408
- 5,060
- 113
Morning everyone (At least here in the USA)!
Some more pictures from yesterday evening's festivities. I really need to get a nice LED light for my workspace...lighting is a bit lacking at night! Anyway, on to the pictures, and again I'm trying to share more pics of oiling locations. Any comments are welcome!
Mainspring installed in the barrel. I like to use 8213 on the barrel wall, and two small dabs of 9504 on the spring before I close her up.
Next up is installing the barrel, barrel bridge, and winding bridge.
After those items, I like to install all the going-train and it's bridge. I also apply Epilame the seconds wheel and escape wheel. Make sure the going-train wheels are free and moving correctly before tightening this bridge down.
Next up is the remaining of the winding and click system. Also make sure you ensure the sliding gear is moving back and forth freely whel you engage the stem for winding. If it is properly greases, there should be no issues.
That's it for today. We should finish up this 3185 this evening, then on to testing it for a couple of days. Stay tuned!
Some oiling locationions and quantity are incorrect
For example:
You doing nice progress just pay attention to manual
Some oiling locationions and quantity are incorrect
For example:
You doing nice progress just pay attention to manual
Thanks a bunch man. Yah the second wheel is my fault. I was posting that this morning and was looking at the manual too quick. I do indeed oil at the base of the seconds wheel with HP1300 (With the small Red Oiler)...my mistake!
You see anything that sticks out on quantity specifically?
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Evening All!
Next installment is finishing up this 3185. Pretty much all that is left is installing the pallets, balance, calendar and GMT functions, and the auto module after I case it all back up.
I think like everybody, I use 9415 on the pallets. The left one gets it this time. I tried to get a good picture... I like to oil the pallet before I install it, and I am careful not to bump it on anything during install.
Pallet fork and Bridge in.
Balance on and ticking! I use a Bergeon 1A Auto Oiler for the Cap Jewels (9010 Oil). It has been a game changer for me!
Next up is the dial side works. This particular watch was having issues with the GMT module, so I disassembled and reoriented the spring and clicks. Works like a charm now! Plus the clone module doesn't allow for proper oiling...
Now on to the autoworks. I Epilame the reverser wheels, not going to show that again however.
Rotor oiled and Installed.
And that is a good looking watch!!
We will adjust the timing tomorrow a bit once it has some time to run. But numbers look solid thus far.
Next installment is finishing up this 3185. Pretty much all that is left is installing the pallets, balance, calendar and GMT functions, and the auto module after I case it all back up.
I think like everybody, I use 9415 on the pallets. The left one gets it this time. I tried to get a good picture... I like to oil the pallet before I install it, and I am careful not to bump it on anything during install.
Pallet fork and Bridge in.
Balance on and ticking! I use a Bergeon 1A Auto Oiler for the Cap Jewels (9010 Oil). It has been a game changer for me!
Next up is the dial side works. This particular watch was having issues with the GMT module, so I disassembled and reoriented the spring and clicks. Works like a charm now! Plus the clone module doesn't allow for proper oiling...
Now on to the autoworks. I Epilame the reverser wheels, not going to show that again however.
Rotor oiled and Installed.
And that is a good looking watch!!
We will adjust the timing tomorrow a bit once it has some time to run. But numbers look solid thus far.
Hey All!
The next watch up was a similar GMT module, however this one had the "Clone 3186" movement, I believe from SH. I'll just show some pictures from the dial side, and the remainder is the same as the previous watch!
You'll notice below, this dial side is slightly different. The GMT function is different than what we are used to seeing. Instead of having one centrally located module, Rolex decided to add even more complexity!
After you get the remainder of the calendar works on, you can install the date indicator seating plate. From here we will install the remainder of the GMT functions.
Hour click and jumping wheel installed. This can be a bit tricky...make sure your using pegwood to hold the click in place when installing, as it will fly away on you! All of these parts get 9504 in some way shape or form.
Last but not least, the remainder of the GMT functions. This includes both intermediate wheels, hour corrector wheel, and the date platform bridge. The silver gears are definitely lower quality. I believe these are the two gears that break the most often on these 3186 movement. The kind of remind me of the gear in the DG2813....just not that great!
On to casing up and testing!
The next watch up was a similar GMT module, however this one had the "Clone 3186" movement, I believe from SH. I'll just show some pictures from the dial side, and the remainder is the same as the previous watch!
You'll notice below, this dial side is slightly different. The GMT function is different than what we are used to seeing. Instead of having one centrally located module, Rolex decided to add even more complexity!
After you get the remainder of the calendar works on, you can install the date indicator seating plate. From here we will install the remainder of the GMT functions.
Hour click and jumping wheel installed. This can be a bit tricky...make sure your using pegwood to hold the click in place when installing, as it will fly away on you! All of these parts get 9504 in some way shape or form.
Last but not least, the remainder of the GMT functions. This includes both intermediate wheels, hour corrector wheel, and the date platform bridge. The silver gears are definitely lower quality. I believe these are the two gears that break the most often on these 3186 movement. The kind of remind me of the gear in the DG2813....just not that great!
On to casing up and testing!
Good Morning All!
Watch tested out well yesterday, and is continuing to run this morning testing the power reserve. Final numbers below! And I promise this isnt the same watch as previously shown....just so happens I have two GMTs back-to-back.
I have a VS3135 next up on the bench. Will share some photos of that here shortly!
Watch tested out well yesterday, and is continuing to run this morning testing the power reserve. Final numbers below! And I promise this isnt the same watch as previously shown....just so happens I have two GMTs back-to-back.
I have a VS3135 next up on the bench. Will share some photos of that here shortly!
Little Teaser for the next movement coming up. VS3135! Stay tuned for more service pictures.
Logixa
I'm Pretty Popular
making good work buddy, keep it up
Thanks man! Much appreciated. Any comments are welcome if you see something funky!
Good Morning All!
Making progress on the next watch...VS3135. Below I show a bit more detail on the keyless works and oiling locations.
Nice clean movement!
Again I Epilame the entire Keyless Works. This is not required per the manual, but I think it is good practice.
Stem, Winding Pinion, and Sliding Pinion oiled up! I didn't point to the locations, you can easily see them in the picture. Using 9504, of course.
Both wheel and stem inserted into the movement plate. I then oil the sliding pinion again in preparation for it's yoke.
Yoke installed.
Setting Lever greased and ready to install.
Setting Lever Yoke, Lever, and Spring for Lever installed.
At this point I install the spring for the Yoke. I find it easier installing it at this point, rather than installing it when I install the sliding pinion yoke. I do not want this thing to spring into orbit!
Keyless complete!
Next up I like to install the minute pinion and it's bridge.
Next up will be the winding bridge and its components, then further on with the movement. I won't show too much of the oiling locations, as they will be the same as the previously detailed 3185 I worked on. Will still show a bunch of pics!
And as always, any comments are welcome!!
Making progress on the next watch...VS3135. Below I show a bit more detail on the keyless works and oiling locations.
Nice clean movement!
Again I Epilame the entire Keyless Works. This is not required per the manual, but I think it is good practice.
Stem, Winding Pinion, and Sliding Pinion oiled up! I didn't point to the locations, you can easily see them in the picture. Using 9504, of course.
Both wheel and stem inserted into the movement plate. I then oil the sliding pinion again in preparation for it's yoke.
Yoke installed.
Setting Lever greased and ready to install.
Setting Lever Yoke, Lever, and Spring for Lever installed.
At this point I install the spring for the Yoke. I find it easier installing it at this point, rather than installing it when I install the sliding pinion yoke. I do not want this thing to spring into orbit!
Keyless complete!
Next up I like to install the minute pinion and it's bridge.
Next up will be the winding bridge and its components, then further on with the movement. I won't show too much of the oiling locations, as they will be the same as the previously detailed 3185 I worked on. Will still show a bunch of pics!
And as always, any comments are welcome!!
Good Morning All!
Making progress on the next watch...VS3135. Below I show a bit more detail on the keyless works and oiling locations.
Nice clean movement!
Again I Epilame the entire Keyless Works. This is not required per the manual, but I think it is good practice.
Stem, Winding Pinion, and Sliding Pinion oiled up! I didn't point to the locations, you can easily see them in the picture. Using 9504, of course.
Both wheel and stem inserted into the movement plate. I then oil the sliding pinion again in preparation for it's yoke.
Yoke installed.
Setting Lever greased and ready to install.
Setting Lever Yoke, Lever, and Spring for Lever installed.
At this point I install the spring for the Yoke. I find it easier installing it at this point, rather than installing it when I install the sliding pinion yoke. I do not want this thing to spring into orbit!
Keyless complete!
Next up I like to install the minute pinion and it's bridge.
Next up will be the winding bridge and its components, then further on with the movement. I won't show too much of the oiling locations, as they will be the same as the previously detailed 3185 I worked on. Will still show a bunch of pics!
And as always, any comments are welcome!!
You’re doing great mate, but unless I can’t see them did you remove the jewels from the balance wheel and escapement wheel? Those are critical points which require flawless cleaning.
Keep up the hard work
You’re doing great mate, but unless I can’t see them did you remove the jewels from the balance wheel and escapement wheel? Those are critical points which require flawless cleaning.
Keep up the hard work
Hey man!
Yes indeed I took them out…after it all goes through the cleaner.
Let the jewel soak in some one dip, inspected, reinstalled, then used my black automatic oiler to oil those.
I have some more pics coming soon. But it is hard to show using an automatic oiler hah!
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Morning Everyone!
Finished up the VS3135 over the weekend. Sharing some pics below, but I wont call out anything specifically since this is the same as the previously shown movement. I do want to comment on the Escape Wheel cap jewels. These are removed and cleaned in one-dip, then I use my black automatic oiler to oil them once back in place. I do this for all the cap jewels, except the top balance jewel. That is oiled manually and shown below.
Finished up the VS3135 over the weekend. Sharing some pics below, but I wont call out anything specifically since this is the same as the previously shown movement. I do want to comment on the Escape Wheel cap jewels. These are removed and cleaned in one-dip, then I use my black automatic oiler to oil them once back in place. I do this for all the cap jewels, except the top balance jewel. That is oiled manually and shown below.
Next up is a A2836-2.
The keyless is again treated with Epilame. I use a combo of 9504 and HP1300 per the manual here, but I may switch to 9504. I feel that may stay in place and hold up better in the long term....any thoughts on that??
Keyless complete.
Barrel and Intermediate Wheel mounted.
The keyless is again treated with Epilame. I use a combo of 9504 and HP1300 per the manual here, but I may switch to 9504. I feel that may stay in place and hold up better in the long term....any thoughts on that??
Keyless complete.
Barrel and Intermediate Wheel mounted.
Last edited:
- 13/3/16
- 1,289
- 2,007
- 113
So I use the Oiler on the Dial side jewel, but not the Rotor side jewel. I find it difficult to steady the cap jewel on my bench, and use the oiler at the same time....IE it springs into orbit if i slip. I prefer to to oil that one manually.
Probably just need to practice holding the jewel with a pair of tweezers while using the auto oiler....
Logixa
I'm Pretty Popular
Drop the 9504 and take the 9501. I had 9504 and it's a piece of shit grease that needs to be stirred every time. 9501 is in my opinion much better and stays better.
For Rolex movements, use hp1000.
I personally only user kluber p125 on barrel walls as a breaking grease, on all type of barrels. It has so far given me the best results always on all kinds of steel types. When I don't change the whole mainspring, I clean it with a piece of watchmaker tissue soaked in alcohol by running it along the length while holding it with a tweezer. Then I wind it up and apply a couple of drops of hp1300 onto the spring while it's in the barrel. So far the best results.
Every watchmaker has his own methods.
Recently bought these movement holders from ali for eta movements. It's much much better than that green plastic thing for eta 28xx movements and it turns.
https://m.nl.aliexpress.com/item/40...249684638a89d8b327f4600bal.jpg_640x640Q90.jpg
For Rolex movements, use hp1000.
I personally only user kluber p125 on barrel walls as a breaking grease, on all type of barrels. It has so far given me the best results always on all kinds of steel types. When I don't change the whole mainspring, I clean it with a piece of watchmaker tissue soaked in alcohol by running it along the length while holding it with a tweezer. Then I wind it up and apply a couple of drops of hp1300 onto the spring while it's in the barrel. So far the best results.
Every watchmaker has his own methods.
Recently bought these movement holders from ali for eta movements. It's much much better than that green plastic thing for eta 28xx movements and it turns.
https://m.nl.aliexpress.com/item/40...249684638a89d8b327f4600bal.jpg_640x640Q90.jpg