NOOB V3 116500LN announced! Whats new?

[Wolfrlx]

Yess.. No problem... Truetime 168... Lucy...

 

[massy]

Yess.. No problem... Truetime 168... Lucy...

Thanks

 

[Yellobird]

Yellobird - Yes, typo on my part. 1 and 2 are too close together and I fat fingered. 2.2mm gasket is what I used. I know it's indicated as 2.3, but mic'd with a caliper, the gasket is really 2.2 and change.

Thanks for the response, you got me confused for a moment. The gasket is a very important thing on this rep, I cannot stand the milky edge that makes the rehaut seem double as tall as it really is. Did you face any issues doing the job? I assume press was needed to press it all together?

On a side note - how are your zenith 16520 frankens? Was always a huge fan of your builds back in the rwg days!

 

[haggle_]

It only cost 12400 but yeah some people are just ignoring this major fact. I'd be interested in seeing someone paying 1/10th of a Ferrari clone and expecting it to look, sound and function as the real one

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Well if 9/10 of the price were due to the brand you should be able to expect that. Any why otherwse be in a forum that discusses even the smallest flaws.

 

[stufuse]

Never seen any TD or Noob factory confirming that 2.2 is released just V2 and V3...
In my oppinion there are just quality differences in their batches... or why are there differently v3 dials out there now?
v3.2 and v3.3 maybe?

This happens a lot , it was coined 2.2 here, as far as I know the factory didn’t announce it, probably (as you say) a batch variant or supplier change. See the same thing with ARF subs and DJ41and the date-wheels . Someone see a good one in pics (just a better printed one) and just assumes it’s been updated, that misinformation soon spreads and then it becomes fact.

Often version numbers or updates don’t align here and with TDs or the factory.

as far as the factory are concerned anything assembled now with the new bezel is v3 (fat sub dial dials or not) This is why When someone tells a TD “that’s not a v3” they’ll say it the latest as thats what they’ve just picked up from the factory.


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[Trickz]

This happens a lot , it was coined 2.2 here, as far as I know the factory didn’t announce it, probably (as you say) a batch variant or supplier change. See the same thing with ARF subs and DJ41and the date-wheels . Someone see a good one in pics (just a better printed one) and just assumes it’s been updated, that misinformation soon spreads and then it becomes fact.

Often version numbers or updates don’t align here and with TDs or the factory.

as far as the factory are concerned anything assembled now with the new bezel is v3 (fat sub dial dials or not) This is why When someone tells a TD “that’s not a v3” they’ll say it the latest as thats what they’ve just picked up from the factory.


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This is what I thought.
Finally I got my v3 and I am very happy with it. Dial/ bezel quality is really fine, maybe bezel swap to cf but only if its fading in a couple of weeks...
The only thing I don't like is the green lumen, but I can live with that.

 

[ubi]

Yellobird - The job to swap gaskets is not terribly difficult. Easy task, especially if changing the bezel for CF! But I agree 100% whole heartedly; it's a must do to get rid of that visible gasket edge!

The El Primeros are well and good; I no longer have them, but I know where they are The Noob 116500 is a good daily driver replacement for them though. I admit that for a long while, I did miss them... But not so much now

 

[2841]

Yellobird - The job to swap gaskets is not terribly difficult. Easy task, especially if changing the bezel for CF! But I agree 100% whole heartedly; it's a must do to get rid of that visible gasket edge!

The El Primeros are well and good; I no longer have them, but I know where they are The Noob 116500 is a good daily driver replacement for them though. I admit that for a long while, I did miss them... But not so much now

Where did you buy a new gasket Ubi?

 

[massy]

This happens a lot , it was coined 2.2 here, as far as I know the factory didn’t announce it, probably (as you say) a batch variant or supplier change. See the same thing with ARF subs and DJ41and the date-wheels . Someone see a good one in pics (just a better printed one) and just assumes it’s been updated, that misinformation soon spreads and then it becomes fact.

Often version numbers or updates don’t align here and with TDs or the factory.

as far as the factory are concerned anything assembled now with the new bezel is v3 (fat sub dial dials or not) This is why When someone tells a TD “that’s not a v3” they’ll say it the latest as thats what they’ve just picked up from the factory.


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this is what happened to me, i wanted to buy a daytona noob v3 when they sent me the photos the dials were fat, the answer was this is the latest version just retired from the factory. how do I go about having a daytona with correct dials ?

 

[stufuse]

this is what happened to me, i wanted to buy a daytona noob v3 when they sent me the photos the dials were fat, the answer was this is the latest version just retired from the factory. how do I go about having a daytona with correct dials ?

You don’t really, you can keep rejecting a perfectly good watch and the TD won’t want to sell to You any more. Like i said, to a TD this is the latest version so referencing versions that were coined here is pointless.

It also depends on your relationship with your dealer. I asked mine to look out for a thin subdial black ceramic after seeing the the fat subdials we’re back. I said if they found one I’d buy it right away. A couple weeks later they found two amongst the latest batches, it’s just luck! I took one and I got the other for my friend.




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[Mark1937]

this is what happened to me, i wanted to buy a daytona noob v3 when they sent me the photos the dials were fat, the answer was this is the latest version just retired from the factory. how do I go about having a daytona with correct dials ?

put in an arf dial ))

also because the batch Noob with the thin dials has the Daytona writing too orange and the o of RoLEX unwatchable.

 

[massy]

You don’t really, you can keep rejecting a perfectly good watch and the TD won’t want to sell to You any more. Like i said, to a TD this is the latest version so referencing versions that were coined here is pointless.

It also depends on your relationship with your dealer. I asked mine to look out for a thin subdial black ceramic after seeing the the fat subdials we’re back. I said if they found one I’d buy it right away. A couple weeks later they found two amongst the latest batches, it’s just luck! I took one and I got the other for my friend.




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There is a possibility that noob will produce non-fat standard dials in the future ?

put in an arf dial ))

also because the batch Noob with the thin dials has the Daytona writing too orange and the o of RoLEX unwatchable.

Where I can found it ?

 

[dmnk]

Do you have blue or green lumen?
My v3 (white dial) arrived too, very nice watch but dial and hands has green lumen.
At QP's my TD sent me before the watch had blue lumen.
So i took some pictures without flashlight after charging the lumen and at these pics the lumen is blue again.
But only at the pictures, in real its green.
I'm not colour-blind or something, just curious...

Mine is blue as it should be. Seems like I actually got really lucky with mine, slim subdials and no big flaws.

 

[igorce]

Will there be a Noob V3 116515 or 116519?

Regards

 

[xxBlack]

So I wanted to send my ARF and Noob to my watchsmith for franken. Unfortunately DHL lost the package and I‘ll get nothing from the insurance(they dont assure watches) so now I have to make a decision

still going for a noob but with the Risk of fat subdials (Franken is now too expensive and no way I‘ll send it again)

or just going with an ARF and less „good“ movement. Maybe just changing the caseback.

what do you trink? I‘m still pissed and sd but I have to make a decision...

 

[xxBlack]

Deleted because of double Post sorry

 

[ashu2289]

So I wanted to send my ARF and Noob to my watchsmith for franken. Unfortunately DHL lost the package and I‘ll get nothing from the insurance(they dont assure watches) so now I have to make a decision

still going for a noob but with the Risk of fat subdials (Franken is now too expensive and no way I‘ll send it again)

or just going with an ARF and less „good“ movement. Maybe just changing the caseback.

what do you trink? I‘m still pissed and sd but I have to make a decision...

So sorry to hear about your loss mate...thats quite a loss
If you're really not a chronograph using guy. I would say go for ARF as that would be economical atm and later after few months if you feel the itch for 4130, you can buy Noob and then go for your initial project or buy a Noob with ARF dial here M2M....
thats what I would have done. And trust me I've ARF as well as Noob and definitely knowing Noob has 4130 is the only thing it has positive over ARF. Otherwise ARF isa great great watch aesthetically above Noob in everyway, ARF 116500 is a a very Gen like rep ootb.

 

[xxBlack]

So sorry to hear about your loss mate...thats quite a loss
If you're really not a chronograph using guy. I would say go for ARF as that would be economical atm and later after few months if you feel the itch for 4130, you can buy Noob and then go for your initial project or buy a Noob with ARF dial here M2M....
thats what I would have done. And trust me I've ARF as well as Noob and definitely knowing Noob has 4130 is the only thing it has positive over ARF. Otherwise ARF isa great great watch aesthetically above Noob in everyway, ARF 116500 is a a very Gen like rep ootb.

The thick caseback doesn‘t bother you? Unfortunately I didnt try the watch. I got it put it in the package and sent it away . I just know the dial and bracelet feels better

 

[ashu2289]

The thick caseback doesn‘t bother you? Unfortunately I didnt try the watch. I got it put it in the package and sent it away . I just know the dial and bracelet feels better

Honestly mate, the ARF caseback didn't bother me on wrist. And I have Gen SS as well as Gen TT Daytona too....and the ARF caseback didn't bother me on wrist.
Although I have already removed the deco plate on my ARF and had an ETA rotor installed, but didn't care to change the caseback. No doubt if you compare side by side with Gen or Noob you can see the slight protruding caseback on ARF but on wrist not much of a difference as its not that thick that can make the watch top heavy, so ARF wears well for me.
Hope this helps

 

[ashu2289]

The thick caseback doesn‘t bother you? Unfortunately I didnt try the watch. I got it put it in the package and sent it away . I just know the dial and bracelet feels better

In addition, case shape, crystal height and gasket, rehaut, bezel, dial markers are all better on ARF as compared to Noob, in fact in my opinion these things are best in ARF you can get in Daytona rep.