New Ebay 1:1 16710 Case Review

[bowtiefanatc]

Yeah I think I have determined ST to be the route to go. I need to order some stuff to finish the build anyways. I’m excited for this one.

I need to get a new bezel and insert for my BP SD, I don’t think WSO is going to be a good option. So I’ll go with ST as well. I wish they still sold cases, but at least there are other options out there.

 

[sfbatman787]

Need some expert advice here.

Here are all the parts I'll be using for my build



As you can see, besides the midcase, everything else will be gen, including a brand-new gen 3185 movement.

Question for experts like @KJ2020, am I missing anything? Hearing about waterproofing issues but is that still applicable with gen parts?

Also found out that there is a v2 case, which is on its way to me, so I will be using that. Apparently it has shorter rehaut and better pin holes placement.

 

[KJ2020]

Need some expert advice here.

Here are all the parts I'll be using for my build



As you can see, besides the midcase, everything else will be gen, including a brand-new gen 3185 movement.

Question for experts like @KJ2020, am I missing anything? Hearing about waterproofing issues but is that still applicable with gen parts?

Also found out that there is a v2 case, which is on its way to me, so I will be using that. Apparently it has shorter rehaut and better pin holes placement.

I'm not seeing the caseback or retaining ring gaskets bro, there's discussion about those on the previous page.

New Ebay 1:1 16710 Case Review

You will find A-series and P-series so 2000 / 2001 models very transitional. You can find A Series with hollow endlinks and SEL Same as P Series. So it may depend if it is a late 2000 or early 2001 And for GEN you have to consider - they started not with all bracelets Reference to same day from...

forum.replica-watch.info

I can't say firsthand about WP with all gen parts, it wouldn't necessarily be a given with any aftermarket mid case I think, but you can't give yourself any better chance. Im confident it can be accomplished with some glue, also discussed on the previous page.

Looking forward to seeing the V2 case, great that you will get it in time for your project.

 

[sfbatman787]

I'm not seeing the caseback or retaining ring gaskets bro, there's discussion about those on the previous page.

New Ebay 1:1 16710 Case Review

You will find A-series and P-series so 2000 / 2001 models very transitional. You can find A Series with hollow endlinks and SEL Same as P Series. So it may depend if it is a late 2000 or early 2001 And for GEN you have to consider - they started not with all bracelets Reference to same day from...

forum.replica-watch.info

I can't say firsthand about WP with all gen parts, it wouldn't necessarily be a given with any aftermarket mid case I think, but you can't give yourself any better chance. Im confident it can be accomplished with some glue, also discussed on the previous page.

Looking forward to seeing the V2 case, great that you will get it in time for your project.

Using a gen spec clear caseback. It's mounted on the case, just not visible.

Do you have a pic or part number for the retainer ring gasket?

 

[KJ2020]

Using a gen spec clear caseback. It's mounted on the case, just not visible.

Do you have a pic or part number for the retainer ring gasket?

A ST part that will work is shown on the previous page. I think I have a pic of the gen part, I'll post it later.

New Ebay 1:1 16710 Case Review

You will find A-series and P-series so 2000 / 2001 models very transitional. You can find A Series with hollow endlinks and SEL Same as P Series. So it may depend if it is a late 2000 or early 2001 And for GEN you have to consider - they started not with all bracelets Reference to same day from...

forum.replica-watch.info

 

[KJ2020]

Using a gen spec clear caseback. It's mounted on the case, just not visible.

Do you have a pic or part number for the retainer ring gasket?

Gen part number is 29-337-8. Pretty hard to find single ones, you may just want to use the ST one.

I was able to piece it together with some old pics and knowing that Rolex uses dimensions in their part numbers. 33.7mm is the diameter, which I guessed when buying the ST part.

https://www.watchmaterial.com/rolex-original-bezel-gasket-29-337-8-10-pieces/

 

[KJ2020]

ST actually lists the gen part number correctly but calls it a caseback gasket

 

[Buzz355]

Has anyone tried gold plating the case & bezel? Was thinking of doing a 16718 with leather strap

 

[KJ2020]

Has anyone tried gold plating the case & bezel? Was thinking of doing a 16718 with leather strap

@Oascom gold plated a WSO bezel for my 16713 - it looks fabulous. There is no reason the case and caseback can't be plated same as any SS piece.

New Ebay 1:1 16710 Case Review

I might also suggest pressing it on without the click spring. This way you can see if your bezel and retaining ring from two different suppliers are compatible. If it still won’t turn, try without the washer. If it works, then try with the spring. This is good advice. @Michaelarena89 If your...

forum.replica-watch.info

 

[pompompurin]

Rafflestime sub hands are the best eta hands that are accessible and purchasable. But they are still far from gen.

In my opinion, gen hands is the way to go. There are no compromise.

Or maybe this set will do the job. They look good, but the price is getting closer to the price of gen hands:

16710 for sale | eBay

Find great deals on eBay for 16710. Shop with confidence.

www.ebay.co.uk

 

[vcelkama]

So I got one of the new super 1:1 16710 Ebay cases.

Link to case: Ebay 16710 case

Overall I was blown away at how beautifully this was made - the lines are crisp, the polishing is superb, the brushing is great. I could go on and on.

Let’s take a look at it next to my gen and see how it stacks up. Nearly everything I point out will be pretty negligible to most of us. The newest of these gen models is now 15 years old so there will be wear and polishing, etc. that will make gen samples have some variability in shape and appearance. My gen is a 1990 L serial that has never been polished (original owner).

All pics of my gen are the ones with the bezel on.

Comments from the pics above - the lug shape is beautiful. They are just a tad long as you will see in subsequent pics but not an issue cosmetically and as I understand it the intent was to leave a little extra for re-brushing if desired. The CG’s from an end-on view show a straight out extension on top rather than dropping down to a curve sooner like the gen but this detail would be overlooked by most. There is less bottom curve to the mid-case than the gen, and it is slightly taller in height than the gen.

The CGs are skinnier than my gen. I actually like this look, I have long thought the gen 16170 CGs look too chunky for its diminutive crown, especially from a top view. The 16610 Sub has way skinner CGs than the 16710 and a much larger crown. Go figure. Keep in mind too that 16710 lug holes cases were phased out in 2003 so what you'd make with this case is a rep of a gen at least 19 years old and going back to 33 years old. Many of these would have been polished, reducing the CG thickness.

The lug holes sit a little lower than the gen (more on this later), and also note that the Ebay case does not have any chamfers cut, which I understand was left to the customers to do how they wanted. It’s very easy to do, just wrap some sandpaper around a springbar pry tool tip and grind the angle down however wide you want.

In the next pic you can see some measurement comparisons.

The caseback is nice, and appears to be the same size as gen.

The VR3186 slid right in, the case cutout is smooth, and movement screws work like gen. Stem hole is centered.

Dial sits nicely against the rehaut (yes I know it’s a 6-digit dial).

The rehaut is nicely finished, I did note that is a tad taller than gen. This is quite easily corrected if one is so inclined. Turn the case upside down and then a few minutes of light sanding on a piece of 400 - 600, then 800 - 1000 grit paper on a flat bench will take it down nicely. This will not affect how the crystal gasket sits or the crystal height. Some TC cases were like this, many people are not bothered by it.

Here you can see the slight difference in lug lengths. This is not usually noticeable with a bracelet link in its normal position.

So next I tried installing some bracelets. But before I show pics of that, let me mention again that the lug holes are a tad low. I measured them to be about 0.2mm low (from case underside to mid hole).

Ebay case

Gen case with Ebay distance carried over

Gen case

So obviously this is going to mean that end links are going to sit lower and there will be more recess. We all like recess but first let’s look at how little recess unpolished and in good condition gen 16710’s usually have.

Here are 4 actual gens with different configurations (pics from my fave gen window shopping site SwissWatchExpo)

My gen (unpolished, end link untouched - not bent)

So here are some pics with some rep bracelets I tried on the Ebay case

My gen bracelet end link fit the Ebay case better though you can see how it drops down at the back. This is actually a nice look IMO and would be totally acceptable. The little gap at the case is hidden by the bezel.

Another pic of both cases with the same gen folded end link

Here are a couple other pics of a folded link installed

Left is gen folded link, right is gen SEL

This pic credit to @Johnny Depp

So the point here is that you may have to try a few different bracelets to get the fit you want, and that using a gen end link appears to offer the best result. Folded links can be bent (opened or closed) a little to improve their appearance. In all cases you should expect the end link to sit lower than it would on a gen case due to the lug holes being lower.

One last point about the lug holes - I was never able to get gen or Everest 2.0mm shoulderless springbars to expand fully in the holes with an end link installed. They would fit and expand with no end link but not when the end link was in place. The tips go in the hole enough to anchor the end link, but it isn’t expanding out into the hole. This has been confirmed by JD, so for now a 1.8mm springbar needs to be used. Everest and Startime both sell 1.8mm shoulderless springbars. Alternately the tip on a 2.0mm bar could likely be shaved a little and it would pop home.

I did install a gen-spec crystal and gasket with no issues but I don’t have a spare gen-spec retaining ring on hand so I have to leave my review there for now.

In summary this is an absolutely beautiful case that is a great base for a Franken. I hope I’ve pointed out some things that will help you understand its pros and minor cons so you can work around them to make that prized addition to your collection.

Update:

I'm still waiting on some parts for mine but I wanted to mention something I found while test fitting some pieces together.

The factory brushing doesn't go up quite close enough to the outer rehaut to be covered by the bezel. This means narrow unbrushed strips will be visible outside of the bezel circumference. This is more pronounced on a 16570, as that bezel is only 39mm while the GMT bezel is 40mm OD.

It's a easy fix - wrap some 320 - 400 grit paper over a sanding stick or similar and blend the areas together. Finish with some Scotch brite or other brushing pad.

Then you can cut some chamfers.

Thanks for looking!

Slightly offtopic - I just received a 16710 viet case (kuared) with custom serial engraving. While not having a gen watch available I measured the same dimensions as in this thread and what I see is:

- top CG width 1.8 mm
- bottom CG width 4.5 mm
- tip to tip 47.3 mm

Seems to be pretty close to the gen. Also the brushing of lugs looks good. Same for chamfers. The downside is that it uses a different thread for the tube (5330 would need to be glued there) but it seems that 6330 gen tube together with 604-0 will work fine (to be confirmed). Waiting for gen retaining ring so that I can check it with this viet case. So far the gen crystal with the gen gasket sits nicely in the rehaut.

Does anyone know the height of the rehaut for the gen?

 

[sfbatman787]

Just got the V2 case from Daniel in Germany and noticed two things right away. @KJ2020

The rehaut height looks way better than V1—it's much shorter now. And the crown guards are beefier compared to V1.

I think both of these changes were definitely needed.

As for the spring bar holes, it seems like Daniel moved them up a bit, but I couldn't measure it accurately. So, I'll leave it to you to judge.

V2 is on the right


V2 is on the top


V2 is on the top

 

[sfbatman787]

V2 case with brand new genuine 78350 bracelet

 

[vcelkama]

V2 case with brand new genuine 78350 bracelet

Any chance to measure the rehaut height for both versions please?

 

[sfbatman787]

Any chance to measure the rehaut height for both versions please?

Unfortunately I do not have the proper tool for that, but believe me it is noticeably shorter, and I believe more gen like.

 

[Singapore9]

Definite improvement there I would say! Looking forward to seeing a full build!

 

[KJ2020]

V2 case with brand new genuine 78350 bracelet

Definitely improved version. Agreed the rehaut is shorter and the CGs are beefier, both nice improvements. It doesn't look like the lug holes were moved up much if at all, maybe rather they were enlarged a little to better align them and allow for a 2.0mm springbar to be used and have a bracelet fit the case better.

The aft part of the SEL still sits too low IMO. While there are certainly some gen samples that show a noticeable recess, that's usually due to SEL or springbar wear and the portion of the inside of the lug that is visible should be close to consistent, not nearly so diverging.

This is the fit I was able to get on the V1 by using creative tape strips and 1.8mm springbars.

 

[KJ2020]

Some random actual gen pics to examine end link fit closely.

 

[KJ2020]

Pics of my gen. Lug holes are smaller and sit noticeably higher. Also a tad toward center case.

End link fit

 

[mp1mancini]

Try adding a bead of glue at the joint between the outside bottom of the crystal gasket and the case. You can use UV glue, GS Hypo or I've also used E6000 successfully. If using GS Hypo or E6000 you'll want to press the retaining ring into the wet glue bead as the hardened glue would create an obstruction. UV glue requires light exposure to cure so pressing the ring would have to wait.

I've used about a 2mm bead, making sure it covers the joint completely with a little border either side. if you use E6000, don't dispense right from the tube unless you puncture the seal with a pinhole. The nozzle opening is too large. Put a blob on some plastic and apply it with a small pointed tool. Or squeeze some into a syringe with a nice size nozzle. Pet med syringes are good for this.

Circling back to this topic. I got crystal ring washer (29-337-8) from ST, then cemented the gasket as described with E6000 and allowed to cure for 5 days. Reassembled and just did an initial waterproof test at 1 bar.

This time it streamed bubbles but they were the finest little bubbles i ever saw between bezel and crystal. There was no water intrusion. Could this be air from underside of crystal ring?