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New Ebay 1:1 16710 Case Review

KJ2020

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So I got one of the new super 1:1 16710 Ebay cases.

Link to case: Ebay 16710 case

Overall I was blown away at how beautifully this was made - the lines are crisp, the polishing is superb, the brushing is great. I could go on and on.

Let’s take a look at it next to my gen and see how it stacks up. Nearly everything I point out will be pretty negligible to most of us. The newest of these gen models is now 15 years old so there will be wear and polishing, etc. that will make gen samples have some variability in shape and appearance. My gen is a 1990 L serial that has never been polished (original owner).

All pics of my gen are the ones with the bezel on.

zColE5.jpg


zCoEHo.jpg


zCowP3.jpg


zCoPyt.jpg


Comments from the pics above - the lug shape is beautiful. They are just a tad long as you will see in subsequent pics but not an issue cosmetically and as I understand it the intent was to leave a little extra for re-brushing if desired. The CG’s from an end-on view show a straight out extension on top rather than dropping down to a curve sooner like the gen but this detail would be overlooked by most. There is less bottom curve to the mid-case than the gen, and it is slightly taller in height than the gen.

The CGs are skinnier than my gen. I actually like this look, I have long thought the gen 16170 CGs look too chunky for its diminutive crown, especially from a top view. The 16610 Sub has way skinner CGs than the 16710 and a much larger crown. Go figure. Keep in mind too that 16710 lug holes cases were phased out in 2003 so what you'd make with this case is a rep of a gen at least 19 years old and going back to 33 years old. Many of these would have been polished, reducing the CG thickness.

The lug holes sit a little lower than the gen (more on this later), and also note that the Ebay case does not have any chamfers cut, which I understand was left to the customers to do how they wanted. It’s very easy to do, just wrap some sandpaper around a springbar pry tool tip and grind the angle down however wide you want.

In the next pic you can see some measurement comparisons.

zCoutD.jpg


The caseback is nice, and appears to be the same size as gen.

zCoNyJ.jpg


The VR3186 slid right in, the case cutout is smooth, and movement screws work like gen. Stem hole is centered.

zCoQrp.jpg


zCorSi.jpg


Dial sits nicely against the rehaut (yes I know it’s a 6-digit dial).

zCoseY.jpg


The rehaut is nicely finished, I did note that is a tad taller than gen. This is quite easily corrected if one is so inclined. Turn the case upside down and then a few minutes of light sanding on a piece of 400 - 600, then 800 - 1000 grit paper on a flat bench will take it down nicely. This will not affect how the crystal gasket sits or the crystal height. Some TC cases were like this, many people are not bothered by it.

zCokmn.jpg


zCoT42.jpg


zEzOnb.jpg


Here you can see the slight difference in lug lengths. This is not usually noticeable with a bracelet link in its normal position.

zplPvI.jpg


So next I tried installing some bracelets. But before I show pics of that, let me mention again that the lug holes are a tad low. I measured them to be about 0.2mm low (from case underside to mid hole).

Ebay case

zCqK0X.jpg


Gen case with Ebay distance carried over

zpExCJ.jpg


Gen case

zpESck.jpg


So obviously this is going to mean that end links are going to sit lower and there will be more recess. We all like recess but first let’s look at how little recess unpolished and in good condition gen 16710’s usually have.

Here are 4 actual gens with different configurations (pics from my fave gen window shopping site SwissWatchExpo)

zpNgbF.jpg


My gen (unpolished, end link untouched - not bent)

zpltaK.jpg


So here are some pics with some rep bracelets I tried on the Ebay case

zpldOX.jpg


zplC64.jpg


My gen bracelet end link fit the Ebay case better though you can see how it drops down at the back. This is actually a nice look IMO and would be totally acceptable. The little gap at the case is hidden by the bezel.

zplkki.jpg


Another pic of both cases with the same gen folded end link

zplPvI.jpg


Here are a couple other pics of a folded link installed

Left is gen folded link, right is gen SEL

zpRjQ2.jpg


This pic credit to @Johnny Depp

zCoC3F.jpg


So the point here is that you may have to try a few different bracelets to get the fit you want, and that using a gen end link appears to offer the best result. Folded links can be bent (opened or closed) a little to improve their appearance. In all cases you should expect the end link to sit lower than it would on a gen case due to the lug holes being lower.

One last point about the lug holes - I was never able to get gen or Everest 2.0mm shoulderless springbars to expand fully in the holes with an end link installed. They would fit and expand with no end link but not when the end link was in place. The tips go in the hole enough to anchor the end link, but it isn’t expanding out into the hole. This has been confirmed by JD, so for now a 1.8mm springbar needs to be used. Everest and Startime both sell 1.8mm shoulderless springbars. Alternately the tip on a 2.0mm bar could likely be shaved a little and it would pop home.

zCoBLb.jpg


zplXjc.jpg


zplpAj.jpg


zpl8J8.jpg


I did install a gen-spec crystal and gasket with no issues but I don’t have a spare gen-spec retaining ring on hand so I have to leave my review there for now.

In summary this is an absolutely beautiful case that is a great base for a Franken. I hope I’ve pointed out some things that will help you understand its pros and minor cons so you can work around them to make that prized addition to your collection.

Update:

I'm still waiting on some parts for mine but I wanted to mention something I found while test fitting some pieces together.

The factory brushing doesn't go up quite close enough to the outer rehaut to be covered by the bezel. This means narrow unbrushed strips will be visible outside of the bezel circumference. This is more pronounced on a 16570, as that bezel is only 39mm while the GMT bezel is 40mm OD.

zXYveW.jpg


zXYXyY.jpg


z7pavE.jpg


It's a easy fix - wrap some 320 - 400 grit paper over a sanding stick or similar and blend the areas together. Finish with some Scotch brite or other brushing pad.

z7l0dR.jpg


z7lJaK.gif


z7lbJ8.jpg


z7lSOL.jpg


z7pUAt.jpg


zXYkck.jpg


Then you can cut some chamfers.

z7pW82.jpg


zXY4mo.jpg


Thanks for looking!
 
Last edited:

majwilliams0308

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I bought this case and will be speccing out a nice build for it. Is this just the standard 25-295 crystal? What gasket height?
 
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Endo

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Thanks for the excellent review. This has come at the right time as a 16710 build has been on my radar. I’m assuming this can be used for a 16570 too?
 
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KJ2020

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I bought this case and will be speccing out a nice build for it. Is this just the standard 25-295 crystal? What gasket height?
This is correct as posted above

25-295-C2 with 2.7mm gasket

However take note that the original gen 16710 crystal is 2.0mm thick and it's gasket has a deeper notch for the crystal to sit in.

The gen 6 digit crystal is 1.8mm thick but it sits at the same height from the case because the gasket notch is more shallow.

So if buying a gen-spec old style (no AR) crystal, you should also use a gen-spec old style 2.7mm gasket, not a newer one or the crystal will sit too high and date mag will be too large.

If it was me I would use 6 digit gen or aftermarket crystal with AR (or AR cyclops) and gasket.

6 digit AR cyclops - B25-295-CAR-C1
6 digit AR underside - B25-7035-1-C1

I disliked my gen non- AR crystal for decades and swapped it out for a gen 6 digit AR cyclops one.

15842815194820.jpg


zCyMvb.jpg


zC1zGS.jpg


zC1jCW.jpg


Here are the two gen gaskets shown together - old gen part on left, you can see the deeper crystal seat notch.

zC1LyK.jpg
 
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mandipan

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This is correct as posted above

25-295-C2 with 2.7mm gasket

However take note that the original gen 16710 crystal is 2.0mm thick and it's gasket has a deeper notch for the crystal to sit in.

The gen 6 digit crystal is 1.8mm thick but it sits at the same height from the case because the gasket notch is more shallow.

So if buying a gen-spec old style (no AR) crystal, you should also use a gen-spec old style 2.7mm gasket, not a newer one or the crystal will sit too high and date mag will be too large.

If it was me I would use 6 digit gen or aftermarket crystal with AR (or AR cyclops) and gasket.

6 digit AR cyclops - B25-295-CAR-C1
6 digit AR underside - B25-7035-1-C1

I disliked my gen non- AR crystal for decades and swapped it out for a gen 6 digit AR cyclops one.

15842815194820.jpg


zCyMvb.jpg


zC1zGS.jpg


zC1jCW.jpg


Here are the two gen gaskets shown together - old gen part on left, you can see the deeper crystal seat notch.

zC1LyK.jpg
problem is finding a gen old no LEC no AR 2.0mm. I already bought a couple sold as GEN on C24 and turned out they weren't...

I'd stick to Clark for my 16700 and 16570 builds, so far it was impossible to me finding a GEN of that era (could be NOS or USED) for a reasonable price.

And I'm speaking of being period correct, of course. One can always use AR'ed or even LEC with S of RSC in the coronet at 6 if wanted.
 

KJ2020

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@KJ2020 pal are you sure 5 digits gen 25-295-C2 is 2.00mm? I always knew/tought it was 1.8mm (same as 6 digits).

maybe @Sub007 or @tripdog can chime in?
Yes bro I just took mine out last month. It's possible a change occurred at some point, Rolex isn't very transparent this way.

The gen gasket that came off it would have swallowed a 1.8mm crystal in the deeper crystal notch.

Maybe mine was a 25-295-C1 for example.
 
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KJ2020

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And of course to be period correct it should have a non- AR crystal. But after 32 years I couldn't take it anymore, haha. I put a glidelock clasp on it too, years ago.

New crystal
16654963965490.jpg


Original crystal
20200224-105737.jpg
 
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Sub007

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Very Nice :), GMT 5 x should be 1.8 if I´m not mistaken. But indeed crystals were interchangedly used and when brought in for service Rolex will put an AR crystal in
 
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mandipan

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And of course to be period correct it should have a non- AR crystal. But after 32 years I couldn't take it anymore, haha. I put a glidelock clasp on it too.

New crystal
16654963965490.jpg


Original crystal
20200224-105737.jpg
well that's one you don't see very often! purists/period correct OCDs will be quite pissed off :D
 

KJ2020

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Here's the old crystal and gasket, the storage sleeve was anonoted on removal. The new gen B25-295-CAR-C1 plus gasket also totalled exactly 3.95mm, due to the shallower gasket notch.

zCnnFE.jpg


zCn9p2.jpg


You can see the thickness difference in both the top and bottom steps

zCn1at.jpg


Ofc I keep the old parts :cool:
 

rockdaytona

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With this case, can we canibalize a BP 16710 and drop components in?
Maybe the Clark Crystal like KJ recommended and a gen insert?
 

KJ2020

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With this case, can we canibalize a BP 16710 and drop components in?
Maybe the Clark Crystal like KJ recommended and a gen insert?
BP recently started making 16710s with the SA3186, so that whole movement/dial/hands could possibly be dropped right in. Maybe the crown and tube can be scavenged too.

The SA movement is not great though so might as well swap it to a VR beforehand.


The only 2836 BP thing worth using that could be made compatible is the dial. It would need to be shaved a little to fit. Not a big deal and there appears to be room outside of the minute tics to remove the material.

zCrTi5.jpg


zCrCVp.jpg
 

mmaggi

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And of course to be period correct it should have a non- AR crystal. But after 32 years I couldn't take it anymore, haha. I put a glidelock clasp on it too, years ago.

New crystal
16654963965490.jpg


Original crystal
20200224-105737.jpg
Where did you get the glide lock clasp? Or did you purchase a new bracelet with the glide lock clasp? I was thinking of buying a non-gen jubilee with a glide lock for my gen 16710 Pepsi. Any suggestions? Thanks in advance.
 

sfbatman787

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I bought this case and am awaiting delivery. The only thing that concerns me now about the case is the shape of the CGs, but I guess it can be overlooked, but the recessed endlinks, due to the lower positioning of the holes, are hard to overlook.

I wish I had known about JD's initiatives with the maker beforehand, so I could have waited until the case had been further improved.
 
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