Here a ''custom'' made one. I see there is some wiggle room / space between the links which would prevent them from touching and chipping eachother:
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Is the APS bracelet tight to the feeling or loose like in the video? At 03:56 he starts showing the bracelet.
Agreed. Better decisions have been made by my Ex.Pin and hammer sounds like a bad idea with ceramic.
The loosen steel plate above the winding rotor is used to secure the movement inside the case, so the movement will sit properly in the case and not moving / swinging around.Re: ceramic issues, have had mine for about a week and love it. No cracks of any kind in the bracelet or case.
Movement though has been an issue. Yesterday noticed the rotor wasn’t turning, looked under magnification and one of the movement tabs seems to have broken off and blocked the rotor. I opened it up and removed the piece and closed the watch. This morning was not winding again ao I opened it again and found one of the screws loose and pinned between the rotor and the movement plate, so I had to remove that also. Also I mentioned this in another post, but the rear screws were basically loose on 5/8 spots.
Another thing I have noticed is that the start/stop button has a different feel or action than the 4 o’clock split button.
Anyone else notice this?
Pic of movement tab:
Yes you’re correct regarding your statement. Thank you A.Just watched the video and I don't think this is a custom version. I think they are just saying the APSF version uses a CNC parts (it's not clear which part that they are referring to whether it be the movement or the case or both), not a custom CNC case that differs from an off the shelf version.
Thanks! Will doThe loosen steel plate above the winding rotor is used to secure the movement inside the case, so the movement will sit properly in the case and not moving / swinging around.
You need to screw it back, otherwise the movement will move around.
I prefer the APSF green...
Bezel grain is in the wrong direction. Should be a simple fix.
Unscrew bezel, let the dust set inside, then rotate bezel counter clock and rescrew?Bezel grain is in the wrong direction. Should be a simple fix.
If ur place is dusty then no, but unscrew the back screws, rotate it and then rescrew.Unscrew bezel, let the dust set inside, then rotate bezel counter clock and rescrew?
I’m not sure I’m seeing either of those from the pics provided. The subdials physically can’t be placed more “far more on the outside” because the clone movement by itself would limit where you could put the subdials. Plus the rep subdials looks pretty much the same relative to the placement of the hour index markers and surrounding tapisserie.Also it looks like the subdials on the gen are placed "far" more on the outside in comparison to APSF (gap between sudial and squares);
and also the squares of the gen Tapisserie are bigger = less spacing between squares.
I completely agree with this. Regarding the color, it’s close enough for me. I don’t expect the color to be 100% the same. I’ll say looking at those pictures, that it’s 95%. Which for me is good enough, when I’m paying 1.4% of the price.I’m not sure I’m seeing either of those from the pics provided. The subdials physically can’t be placed more “far more on the outside” because the clone movement by itself would limit where you could put the subdials. Plus the rep subdials looks pretty much the same relative to the placement of the hour index markers and surrounding tapisserie.
As for the tapisserie square size, likewise they look pretty similar. If you use the rectangular “Audemars Piguet” cutout toward the top of the dial, there are exactly 10 tapisserie squares running along the bottom of the rectangle in both gen and rep. That would be difficult to replicate of the squares or distances between the squares were very different.
Now, the tapisserie is not a perfect 1:1, and perhaps some of the visual differences and light refraction can be explained by the gen having more of a “pyramid” aspect (i.e., the sides of the squares have more slope and rise slightly higher from the base of the dial). But I really don’t think this would be visible without some strong magnification, and even then you’d have to have a gen side-by-side to compare.
As with everything else with this rep (movement, dial, hands, screws, bracelet profile, polishing, etc) — good enough unless under a microscope next to a gen.