392mm = 15,4331" inch , I hope you sleep peacefully tonight392 mm ha un diametro superiore a un piede. È un orologio, non un pallone da basket.
ps:
what's missing is a 1680 and a 1665 thread
Working on a 1680 now, but hit a snag getting the bezel off on a Raffles case...damn crystals break, every time.what's missing is a 1680 and a 1665 thread
how are you breaking the crystal? remove insert with razor and fish out the octagon retaining wire and the bezel should come off...crystal should not be damaged in any way unless you diss it with the razor trying to get the insert off?Working on a 1680 now, but hit a snag getting the bezel off on a Raffles case...damn crystals break, every time.
I got the same problem on the Raffles 1016.how are you breaking the crystal? remove insert with razor and fish out the octagon retaining wire and the bezel should come off...crystal should not be damaged in any way unless you diss it with the razor trying to get the insert off?
I heatgunned the assembly on low and it broke free the crystal from the glue... not hot enough to damage the crystal, but if you've got a hair dryer, that might do it too.I got the same problem on the Raffles 1016.
Crystal is glued solid. When I wedge the knife, the whole bezel assembly pops out with the crystal
The first one broke trying to push it out of the slot from behind. I suspect it was either already broken or there was some kind of adhesive involved, but was planning on replacing it anyway, so didn't worry too much (5517 build). The next two were the same...stress cracks after pushing it out from behind (which required very little force, so I suspect they might have started that way). These were to be my 5513 and 1680 builds. So all three are stalled, although I have been working on the other aspects of the build as time allows...bezel and insert patina and case shaping.how are you breaking the crystal? remove insert with razor and fish out the octagon retaining wire and the bezel should come off...crystal should not be damaged in any way unless you diss it with the razor trying to get the insert off?
How much is Milk's case though? Because this is very inexpensive!When Milks case exists I see no reason to bother with this. Even if you reshape the crownguards to something acceptable looking the "wall" of material at the crown looks terrible. If you decide to tackle that too it'll require more than simple hand tools and at that point you might as well just start with a better case to begin with. Then when you start thinking about upgrading some parts you're SOL because chances are none of it is gen-spec.
Outside of his Explorer case and some hand sets I really dont see any of his offerings worth the time and effort tbh.
Agree.How much is Milk's case though? Because this is very inexpensive!
You can also convert an ETA 2879 which shares the calendar parts with the 2836, but is low beat. Stem height is the same and is a great option for low beat builds. I bought a couple for my subs and they work good after a service.i ordered a caseset too. Lets see anyone has an idea what movement options this case is able to accommodate? i have a DG3804 complete with everything ready in my BP Build, or a spare ETA 2846 wich would need a new handset and a GMT conversion.
My guess is the ETA option because of the stem height, but maybe someone has already had his hands on this set and tried?