Oh gosh already 18 pages and I didn't follow...... . I'll get to it tonight
IS the insert from tiger concept a direct fit with thé raffle case?All parts have finally arrived to complete the raffles case build for my super budget amateur bluberry. Since all bluberry gmts are fake anyways, I thought why not build a real fake one!. Regardless, it has always been a great looking watch to me personally, especially the UAE ones.
Case is untouched from raffles because I don't know how to and lack of the tools & knowledge to shape the crown guards so I don't wanna risk fookin things up. Perhaps one fine day I'll give it a go. Here are the parts I used:
Insert from Tiger (not the best but it's the most affordable).
A2836 from my old 1675 Pepsi from BP.
Hour, minute and second hands are also from the same BP watch.
All red GMT hand from Rafflestime.
Jubilee bracelet from another broken DJ rep.
Case, arabic DWO, dial, jubilee endlinks from Rafflesdial.
Case was lightly aged by gently shaking it in a box of coins with the jubilee bracelet. Sanded off the cyclops because I never liked 'em.
Dial and hands were given the fauxtina treatment with my fav coffee.
Now I'm gonna wear this daily because I'm luvin' it!
The tube has run out of thread, I think. Need to see if you can run a die to the flange or countersink the case a bit.
Working on reshaping the case again, I managed to bring the surface the crown tube screws in further in, but I can't get the crown tube to screw in flush with the new surface, put up some resistance screwing it in and won't go any further. Does the hole for the crown tube need to be re-tapped?
If it needs a retapping whats the tap size for the stock raffles crown? 2.8? I don't know what the pitch is.
Excellent work on the crystal, surely you can do something better with those crown guards?!Hello all, long time lurker, first time commenter.
I got the raffles build 1675 and so far am loving it. I couldnt get over the cyclops misalignment and filed off the cyclops and sanded down the crystal to tide me over until a proper crystal has been tracked down.
I have many questions, i could not for the life of me fade this insert reliably or predictably with many methods, both draino, and bleach. The moment it did work it was sort of all over the place but couldnt be replicated.
Any advice i could get on how you aged your raffles insert would be a god send.
And if anyone else can find a properly aligned cyclops crystal please do share your source. My watch is itching for it!
Yes, the hole thread on the Raffles case is 2.8
Working on reshaping the case again, I managed to bring the surface the crown tube screws in further in, but I can't get the crown tube to screw in flush with the new surface, put up some resistance screwing it in and won't go any further. Does the hole for the crown tube need to be re-tapped?
If it needs a retapping whats the tap size for the stock raffles crown? 2.8? I don't know what the pitch is.
Working on reshaping the case again, I managed to bring the surface the crown tube screws in further in, but I can't get the crown tube to screw in flush with the new surface, put up some resistance screwing it in and won't go any further. Does the hole for the crown tube need to be re-tapped?
If it needs a retapping whats the tap size for the stock raffles crown? 2.8? I don't know what the pitch is.
Yes, the hole thread on the Raffles case is 2.8
Working on reshaping the case again, I managed to bring the surface the crown tube screws in further in, but I can't get the crown tube to screw in flush with the new surface, put up some resistance screwing it in and won't go any further. Does the hole for the crown tube need to be re-tapped?
If it needs a retapping whats the tap size for the stock raffles crown? 2.8? I don't know what the pitch is.
The problem is that you have filed the material between the crown tube and the case a little too much, now you have to re-thread. you must not bring the tube too close to the bezel because otherwise the crown, when fully screwed, will touch the bezel
Working on reshaping the case again, I managed to bring the surface the crown tube screws in further in, but I can't get the crown tube to screw in flush with the new surface, put up some resistance screwing it in and won't go any further. Does the hole for the crown tube need to be re-tapped?
If it needs a retapping whats the tap size for the stock raffles crown? 2.8? I don't know what the pitch is.
I bought two Asian 2836 (HZ6460) for my build, in the end I threw them both away and bought an original Eta 2836 modifying it into a GMT with parts from the other two. For me the Eta 2836 is the only alternative.Any idea where to get a good 2836, i Saw Alix store propose some clone, but they dont look a s good as a st2130 or a pt5000 for exemple...
Would like to build one 1675
Havmd you trouble with thé keyless work only or all thé mouvement IS shit?I bought two Asian 2836 (HZ6460) for my build, in the end I threw them both away and bought an original Eta 2836 modifying it into a GMT with parts from the other two. For me the Eta 2836 is the only alternative.
Have you find a good source for thé gen thing?Wouldn't an NH34 technically be the best choice for the 1675? It had a 19,800 VPH beat rate and the NH34 beats at 21,600. The regular a2836 GMT beats at 28,800. Plus the NH movements are practically bulletproof.
The NH is absolutely not a bad choice but if the case is designed for ETA 2836, why go through unnecessary trouble and have to modify it to make it fit? And in any case, the ETA 2836 is undoubtedly better in every respect than an NH34 or not?Wouldn't an NH34 technically be the best choice for the 1675? It had a 19,800 VPH beat rate and the NH34 beats at 21,600. The regular a2836 GMT beats at 28,800. Plus the NH movements are practically bulletproof.
Gen 1570/1575? No. Gen NH34? Yes.Have you find a good source for thé gen thing?
I had problems, some others didn't because I see that many use it, I only took the parts from the Asian movement that transform the movement into GMT, those seem well made and still work perfectly, for the rest I prefer to know more have an original Swiss movementHavmd you trouble with thé keyless work only or all thé mouvement IS shit?
So an ETA 2846 with the Asian GMT parts would probably be the logical choice then.The NH is absolutely not a bad choice but if the case is designed for ETA 2836, why go through unnecessary trouble and have to modify it to make it fit? And in any case, the ETA 2836 is undoubtedly better in every respect than an NH34 or not?
What's the problem with the fact that it beats at 28800 instead of 19800 like the 1575 GMT Rolex which is a barely perceptible difference? Then keep in mind that the ETA has a rapid date change like 1575, the NH does not
I prefer the 2836 with GMT modification for the characteristics I indicated before, date change, quality, etc. Then here the 2846 is unobtainable because it is little usedSo an ETA 2846 with the Asian GMT parts would probably be the logical choice then.