NEW! 1675 GMT case set offering from Raffles.

[Danza1813]

Alright, so the two Sternkreuz 302.450 arrived.
CousinsUK Code C8496 and C64019.
They have a nice bevel but none of them work.
I ordered the normal and the more expensive pressed version.
Supposedly identical dimensions, in reality completely different.
The normal version C8496 is bigger on the inside and the outside so it does not fit. (the reason why Danza1813s must have cracked) It sits very tight over the rehaut so i did not dare try and press it down all the way. A CAC insert (supposedly gen dimensions) will not fit over this crystal ass well because the outer diameter of the crystal is too wide.
Cyclops is in the wrong position.
The pressed version C64019 is smaller on both sides and does fit the case and bezel inlay. The dimensions here are similar to clarks. Cyclops here is in the wrong position too, only that this one is even more towards the center of the crystal. so the cyclops is in two different and wrong positions on those two 302.450 which adds even more to the confusion.
So the schematics of those crystals on cousinsuk simply are completely wrong and both are wrong for a gen spec dial...
Damn and blast

This is disheartening news. Is the 300.158 cyclops soo far out it’s unusable as the profile on the case is great and fits the bezel assembly nicely. I believe it’s possible to sand the cyclops off and go for a t18 look?

 

[Danza1813]

Ok so I answered my own question.

I just filed off the crystal from my broken 302 as a test run. Filed and sanded with increasing grit until it was ready for a cape cod and a buff with the dremel. Not a bad option especially if you’re not a cyclops fan. I personally like some of the older 1675s with t18 crystal.

 

[deadaglev]

the cyclops is off on all the Sternkreuz i tried so far unfortunately.
Yes you could just sand them off but the tropical crystals on gens back then were rounded, not beveled.

 

[Danza1813]

I used an original ETA 2836 with a higher seconds pinion so I had to shorten the seconds hand. I took all the parts needed for the GMT transformation from a broken 6460. Otherwise with an HZ6460 movement you have to use a seconds hand with a very long tube otherwise it won't fit well

What movement ring did you use?

 

[EnryDJ36]

What movement ring did you use?

The original of Ralles case

 

[EnryDJ36]

Raffles case

 

[baldman]

The glass is glued to the case, of course, if you do not use glue can also be fully stuck. The tooth ring is divided into two layers, the inner ring is fixed on the glass through the rubber ring, and the outer ring is fixed by the inner ring. The aluminum alloy bezel needs to be polished to reduce the outside diameter and then the double-sided adhesive is glued to the tooth ring

 

[choate]

NH34 movement holder/dial spacer.






Also messed with the bevel on the Clark's crystal, with ok results.

Never been a fan of jubilee bracelets personally but it don't hate it on this. It's got the gen flippy-floppy endlinks with the shockingly bad fit, anyone know which jubilee endlinks fit? Raffles are never going to be good even with reshaping because they are too short.

 

[choate]

the cyclops is off on all the Sternkreuz i tried so far unfortunately.
Yes you could just sand them off but the tropical crystals on gens back then were rounded, not beveled.

thanks for the info. ill' try gs brand and let you all know how they are.

 

[deadaglev]

NH34 movement holder/dial spacer.






Also messed with the bevel on the Clark's crystal, with ok results.

Never been a fan of jubilee bracelets personally but it don't hate it on this. It's got the gen flippy-floppy endlinks with the shockingly bad fit, anyone know which jubilee endlinks fit? Raffles are never going to be good even with reshaping because they are too short.

That case looks very nicely done. How did you do the crystal?
I actually use raffles 445b endlinks on my jubilee.
After removing the tubes for the spring bars completely and some dial dots to hold the endlinks in place, they fit ok. If there is a better option, i would like to know too.

 

[EnryDJ36]

That case looks very nicely done. How did you do the crystal?
I actually use raffles 445b endlinks on my jubilee.
After removing the tubes for the spring bars completely and some dial dots to hold the endlinks in place, they fit ok. If there is a better option, i would like to know too.

My solution already used on Oyster bracelets is to work the part indicated by the arrow to reduce the distance between the interest of the spring bars and the case with line and a cylinder of the same diameter as the case covered with abrasive paper. Finally, the tubes for the bars are reinforced with laser welding. The fitment is perfect and they don't move at all.
In the photo the arrow indicates the entire curvature to be smoothed.

 

[Danza1813]

the cyclops is off on all the Sternkreuz i tried so far unfortunately.
Yes you could just sand them off but the tropical crystals on gens back then were rounded, not beveled.

So just for clarity as to where we stand! What’s the current best option for a crystal (other than gen!) I’m thinking best cyclops placement and magnification in the first instance, bevelled edge second?

 

[EnryDJ36]

To prevent the terminals from coming out of the profile of the case, they can also be shaped laterally from the inside with small iron rods and using pliers to make them perfectly follow the curvature of the lugs. Afterwards, even if they are marked during work, they will be sanded and satin-finished with an abrasive sponge. For the bracelets I use Bergeon 5444/A.

 

[choate]

My solution already used on Oyster bracelets is to work the part indicated by the arrow to reduce the distance between the interest of the spring bars and the case with line and a cylinder of the same diameter as the case covered with abrasive paper. Finally, the tubes for the bars are reinforced with laser welding. The fitment is perfect and they don't move at all.
In the photo the arrow indicates the entire curvature to be smoot

Looks nice!

 

[Singapore9]

Has anyone tried the Kuared bezel sets?

Blueberry: https://www.ebay.com/itm/305529014968

Pepsi: https://www.ebay.com/itm/305421344626

 

[EnryDJ36]

Has anyone tried the Kuared bezel sets?

Blueberry: https://www.ebay.com/itm/305529014968

Pepsi: https://www.ebay.com/itm/305421344626

So nice but expensive

 

[EnryDJ36]

The Blueberry from the photos it almost looks like Gen like (see numbers 20 and 22 which follow the curvature correctly). Pepsi, on the other hand, seems too flat to me, still talking about the base of the insert numbers.
Bezel ring, crystal retaining ring and Wassermann seem ok, we need to see that they are of the correct size

 

[Danza1813]

The Blueberry from the photos it almost looks like Gen like (see numbers 20 and 22 which follow the curvature correctly). Pepsi, on the other hand, seems too flat to me, still talking about the base of the insert numbers.
Bezel ring, crystal retaining ring and Wassermann seem ok, we need to see that they are of the correct size

Mine is from kuared_watch. Fits perfect on a sterkreuz 300 crystal.

 

[freebalkany]

Quick question regarding the bezel, does anyone know where I could fine a gold plated bezel?
I'd like to build a 1675/3 at some point. I know WSO has a solid gold bezel, but that's outside of my budget

 

[WatchN3RD]

NH34 movement holder/dial spacer.






Also messed with the bevel on the Clark's crystal, with ok results.

Never been a fan of jubilee bracelets personally but it don't hate it on this. It's got the gen flippy-floppy endlinks with the shockingly bad fit, anyone know which jubilee endlinks fit? Raffles are never going to be good even with reshaping because they are too short.

"I managed to machine a movement holder, which screws to the movement with two 1mm drilled and tapped holes get the dial feet holes in, plus machine the NH date wheel, move and machine the crown and counter bore"

Again, amazing. So did you drill new holes in the movement, or enlarge holes already there? The pictures are great help, but I'm confused about where the movement holder tabs attach with the screw."

As for the Jubilee end links, supposedly 50 end links are correct. Not easy to find, and the aftermarket ones on eBay show a picture of links for an oyster band. 550 end links should also work, but might not fit 2mm spring bars. I haven't tried either yet, but have been researching; I just bought a folded/rolled jubilee exactly like yours.