I purchased a Sillan 16610 case from Alibaba.

[2841]

AFAIK the 16610ln never came from Rolex with an AR cyclops. I've read that the later 16610lv models (V & G serials) did come with factory AR cyclops.

That information is hard to come by - TRF is probably the best resource but has nothing other than what's stated above. If anyone knows more (or has a 2008 - 2009 16610ln with a factory AR cyclops) please chime in.

Thanks bud, appreciate the help, like you I have a hard time looking at the non AR crystals

 

[Freecastle]

@trash3939 how is the crown on these cases? Has the crowntube been countersunk properly so that the crown can screw in all the way into the case?

I have decided to get one of these cases for my Kermit build, so if someone in the EU decides to buy and meet the MOQ, please let me know.

 

[trash3939]

@trash3939 how is the crown on these cases? Has the crowntube been countersunk properly so that the crown can screw in all the way into the case?

I have decided to get one of these cases for my Kermit build, so if someone in the EU decides to buy and meet the MOQ, please let me know.

No, sir.
The tube holes in the sillan case are not countersunk.

Therefore, in rare cases, there is a gap between the crown and the tube.

 

[Freecastle]

No, sir.
The tube holes in the sillan case are not countersunk.

Therefore, in rare cases, there is a gap between the crown and the tube.

Have you ever asked for a QC before placing an order with Sillan? Is it just hit or miss? Because then I may just have to just live with the wide chamfers of the BP case.

I don’t feel like spending time and money on fixing one small problem, just to gain a new one. And a gap between the crown and the tube would anoy me a lot more.

 

[trash3939]

Have you ever asked for a QC before placing an order with Sillan? Is it just hit or miss? Because then I may just have to just live with the wide chamfers of the BP case.

I don’t feel like spending time and money on fixing one small problem, just to gain a new one. And a gap between the crown and the tube would anoy me a lot more.

I have never asked for QC when buying parts on Alibaba or AliExpress.

If you are concerned, talk to sillan before you buy.

This is a known issue.
It is not difficult to countersink a tube hole with the proper tooling.

 

[bcapa40]

just received my order of 2 today and they are really good even when compared to my two TC subs. I always prefer pre 2003 drilled lugs on my 16610's but I plan on doing a black dial two tone 16613 and for some reason, not having drilled lugs bothers me less on this model. Perhaps it's the blingy nature of the two tone 16613 varient befitting non drilled equally as well.

 

[Karbon74]

just received my order of 2 today and they are really good even when compared to my two TC subs. I always prefer pre 2003 drilled lugs on my 16610's but I plan on doing a black dial two tone 16613 and for some reason, not having drilled lugs bothers me less on this model. Perhaps it's the blingy nature of the two tone 16613 varient befitting non drilled equally as well.

Did you also buy their dial and hands? And bracelets

I am a bit concerned of such a large order with customs

 

[bcapa40]

I may end up doing a first few years 16800 with this case. Besides drilling the lugs, I need to bring the rehaut down a bit. The 16800 had a shallower rehaut due to the 3035 taller height movement than the 16610 with the 3135.

 

[bcapa40]

Did you also buy their dial and hands? And bracelets

I am a bit concerned of such a large order with customs

Have the gold hands and date wheel. Just need to source out a hollow center link two tone plated bracelet which is going to be a bit of a hunt for under $300. Most are solid centers which pegs a 10 on my OCD scale.

 

[bcapa40]

Forgot to add that I have a BP 16613 SA 3135 bluesy from Trusty Time. Not a fan of the BP factory case due to the non genuine wire bezel construction however the band is not to bad and has period correct hollow centers. I am also using a genuine Swiss Made balck dial for the 16613 build.

 

[Caboose]

Forgot to add that I have a BP 16613 SA 3135 bluesy from Trusty Time. Not a fan of the BP factory case due to the non genuine wire bezel construction however the band is not to bad and has period correct hollow centers. I am also using a genuine Swiss Made balck dial for the 16613 build.

My big gripe on the BP is the crystal and the rattly bracelet. That being said the bracelet is comfortable.

 

[bcapa40]

My big gripe on the BP is the crystal and the rattly bracelet. That being said the bracelet is comfortable.

Yes I agree. To be honest, I am now avoiding all reps that are not genuine construction. Wire on bezel is fine for a Bond Seamaster is fine bcause that's how a genuine is but not for a Rolex.

 

[Freecastle]

My big gripe on the BP is the crystal and the rattly bracelet. That being said the bracelet is comfortable.

I think the crystal is nice, to be honest.

The bracelet on the other hand - No!

I just got an ARF bracelet for my build and it’s indeed nicer than the BP bracelet. Less rattly too, and with the correct brushed sides.

 

[Caboose]

I think the crystal is nice, to be honest.

The bracelet on the other hand - No!

I just got an ARF bracelet for my build and it’s indeed nicer than the BP bracelet. Less rattly too, and with the correct brushed sides.

Where did you source the ARF bracelet from?

 

[Freecastle]

Where did you source the ARF bracelet from?

I got it in a m2m sale here on the Forums.

It’s very nice, but has sharp edges, that needs to be buffed out abit. Clasp is good. The bracelet has a nice weight to it, and less ratly than the BP. I guess a good cleaning after it has been buffed out, and some dry lube will make it perfect.

I haven’t tried a TC bracelet, but I kinda find it hard to believe that it’s that much better, especially since Gen 5 digit bracelets aren’t actually that nice.

 

[Caboose]

I got it in a m2m sale here on the Forums.

It’s very nice, but has sharp edges, that needs to be buffed out abit. Clasp is good. The bracelet has a nice weight to it, and less ratly than the BP. I guess a good cleaning after it has been buffed out, and some dry lube will make it perfect.

I haven’t tried a TC bracelet, but I kinda find it hard to believe that it’s that much better, especially since Gen 5 digit bracelets aren’t actually that nice.

As owner of a TC bracelet I can say it is sharper than the BP and I enjoy wearing the BP more. That being said, the TC looks better.

 

[Freecastle]

As owner of a TC bracelet I can say it is sharper than the BP and I enjoy wearing the BP more. That being said, the TC looks better.

For some reason the bracelet for the BP SD 16600 is much nicer than the BP Submariner bracelet, but that also has the wrong brushed sides.

So I had to polish my BP SD 16600 bracelet and change my BP Submariner bracelet to ARF for correct brushed sides, and less rattle.

I agree that the BP Submariner bracelet wears very nice. It feels great on the wrist.

Off the wrist, when you handle the watch it just feels too light and rattly.

I have inspected many Gen 5 and 4 digit Rolex’ and their bracelets are not very nice, so it probably just feels like a 20+ year old worn out Gen Rolex bracelet, and we have become used to the much nicer bracelets on newer watches.

I hope to swap my BP Kermit into a ARF/Sillan case with a Horlogear Insert that just arived, a new correct handset, and call it done.

 

[bcapa40]

Have the gold hands and date wheel. Just need to source out a hollow center link two tone plated bracelet which is going to be a bit of a hunt for under $300. Most are solid centers which pegs a 10 on my OCD scale.

Sorry, I think I forgot to answer the other part of you question. I bought four used gen 16613 dials from ebay over the past few years. Appear to be swap put due to crystal shatter. Two black to blue. One each Swiss Made superluminova the others tritium. Of course unless I drill the lugs, I will be using the swiss versions for these builds.