Explorer I 214270 39mm ARF vs. BP vs. others?

[Tobel]

Hi! Picked up my watch today and realized it was going 2h 15 min too fast. This is outrageous. Haven't been in a brutal "hit" or absorbed any shock, haven't dropped it at all. What the actual fuck. How do I proceed from here? Do i contact my dealer or do I replace it on my own? What the fuck...

The 1st thing you have to do is chill. I understand that you're disappointed, but remember that you bought a replica manufactured in a chinese factory that arrived to your place through whatever postal service in a small box. So it's very likely that something happened in transit. There is nothing outrageous, this is the rule of the game, that kind of shit happens. Now reach out to your TD to explain the issue and try to negotiate a solution. Usually they will suggest that you send it back or they will contribute a small fee so that you can get the movement serviced. Good luck

 

[mrln]

First try to demagnetise it. Maybe that's all it takes.

 

[Skoglund]

Hi,

Pure overreaction from my side. The watch had been laying on the table for a longer time than the power-reserve was manage to handle. I'm very sorry if I made anyone not pull the trigger because of this post, it wasn't well made and made in pure anger and anxiousness. Once again sorry.

What I do know for a fact is that the 6+s/d that it was from the QC videos and from my first week or two with the watch is not holding up. Fully wound up it's now at +20s/d. Haven't as previously mentioned been exposed to any sort of shock. Although I've been wearing it while (...) with my gf. But that shouldn't affect it to that degree(?) I've heard the rotor make a few noises but other than that not much at all.

I've actually thought a bit about exchanging the movement inside the watch to a real ETA 2824. or any other movement suitable for the watch.

Anyone with experience on exchanging movement or any person to recommend for me sending it to?

 

[Silver Fox Mulder]

BP still best out of the box, dont waste your money on 904.

 

[Rippin6Gears]

BP still best out of the box, dont waste your money on 904.

BP has a 904 model by the way… so in simpler terms stick with the 316

 

[museguy]

BP 316L gen Swiss ETA, this one will likely never leave my collection

Dear KJ2020,

Beautiful watch !

Is the case for the 3132 and the 2836 the same ? Or are there two different BP cases, one for the 3132 and one for the 2836 ?

I am thinking to order the BP 3132 and if I have issues in the future I can change to the 2836.

Thank you !

 

[KJ2020]

Dear KJ2020,

Beautiful watch !

Is the case for the 3132 and the 2836 the same ? Or are there two different BP cases, one for the 3132 and one for the 2836 ?

I am thinking to order the BP 3132 and if I have issues in the future I can change to the 2836.

Thank you !

Bro the BP 3132 version is likely just an SA3135 (standard BP) with the fake 3132 engraving. SA3135 is the least desirable of all rep 3135 movements. The "3132" likely still has a crown position 2 and you can can probably change an invisible date. Also they don't sync the hands with the date change so you would hear a date change click at some random time of the day. I have a BP OP39 that exhibits these exact characteristics.

The "2836" BP 214270's are in actuality 2824's - this mislabeling occurs frequently in the rep world. My gen movement is a 2824, it was a 1:1 swap. This is actually a good thing, the stem height and crown positions on a 2824 and a 313x are very close so those movements can usually be swapped around but be aware that hands hole sizes are different and would not be interchangeable. The 2836 has a much greater stem height so the tube, crown and stem sit a lot lower and a 313x is not going to fit in the same case as a 2836 1:1.

TBH, I would buy this one and let the A2824 run til it dies then put in a gen Swiss if you still love the watch. I have several reps going on 3 years with BP ETA clone movements still running strong and never been serviced. ETA clone movements are a very strong point of BP reps IME, clone BP 313x movements are the weakest link.

https://trustytime.io/index.php?main...ducts_id=18286

 

[KJ2020]

SEL recess and bracelet fit on my sample are among the best I've had on any rep - this is OOTB.

 

[museguy]

Bro the BP 3132 version is likely just an SA3135 (standard BP) with the fake 3132 engraving. SA3135 is the least desirable of all rep 3135 movements. The "3132" likely still has a crown position 2 and you can can probably change an invisible date. Also they don't sync the hands with the date change so you would hear a date change click at some random time of the day. I have a BP OP39 that exhibits these exact characteristics.

The "2836" BP 214270's are in actuality 2824's - this mislabeling occurs frequently in the rep world. My gen movement is a 2824, it was a 1:1 swap. This is actually a good thing, the stem height and crown positions on a 2824 and a 313x are very close so those movements can usually be swapped around but be aware that hands hole sizes are different and would not be interchangeable. The 2836 has a much greater stem height so the tube, crown and stem sit a lot lower and a 313x is not going to fit in the same case as a 2836 1:1.

TBH, I would buy this one and let the A2824 run til it dies then put in a gen Swiss if you still love the watch. I have several reps going on 3 years with BP ETA clone movements still running strong and never been serviced. ETA clone movements are a very strong point of BP reps IME, clone BP 313x movements are the weakest link.

https://trustytime.io/index.php?main...ducts_id=18286

Dear KJ2020

Thank you for the information and thank you for the encouragement.

Today is my birthday and just ordered the BP Explorer I as a birthday gift to myself.

Cheers

 

[snowman9000]

Bro the BP 3132 version is likely just an SA3135 (standard BP) with the fake 3132 engraving. SA3135 is the least desirable of all rep 3135 movements. The "3132" likely still has a crown position 2 and you can can probably change an invisible date. Also they don't sync the hands with the date change so you would hear a date change click at some random time of the day. I have a BP OP39 that exhibits these exact characteristics.

The "2836" BP 214270's are in actuality 2824's - this mislabeling occurs frequently in the rep world. My gen movement is a 2824, it was a 1:1 swap. This is actually a good thing, the stem height and crown positions on a 2824 and a 313x are very close so those movements can usually be swapped around but be aware that hands hole sizes are different and would not be interchangeable. The 2836 has a much greater stem height so the tube, crown and stem sit a lot lower and a 313x is not going to fit in the same case as a 2836 1:1.

TBH, I would buy this one and let the A2824 run til it dies then put in a gen Swiss if you still love the watch. I have several reps going on 3 years with BP ETA clone movements still running strong and never been serviced. ETA clone movements are a very strong point of BP reps IME, clone BP 313x movements are the weakest link.

https://trustytime.io/index.php?main...ducts_id=18286

really great info! I Thanks!

 

[Snil]

Just accepted QC on this "316" Explorer. Not a big fan about the SEL gaps or the incorrect crown but eh, everything else looks good and I'm planning on putting it on an Oysterflex since I already have a VSF Sub.
https://imgur.com/gallery/HVzKhof

 

[KJ2020]

Just accepted QC on this "316" Explorer. Not a big fan about the SEL gaps or the incorrect crown but eh, everything else looks good and I'm planning on putting it on an Oysterflex since I already have a VSF Sub.
https://imgur.com/gallery/HVzKhof

Those aren't SEL gaps bro, what you are seeing is SEL recess. It's good!

 

[Snil]

Those aren't SEL gaps bro, what you are seeing is SEL recess. It's good!

Top left and bottom right looked kinda loose towards the case but you might be right! I'm very happy regardless

 

[Snil]

Hi,

Pure overreaction from my side. The watch had been laying on the table for a longer time than the power-reserve was manage to handle. I'm very sorry if I made anyone not pull the trigger because of this post, it wasn't well made and made in pure anger and anxiousness. Once again sorry.

What I do know for a fact is that the 6+s/d that it was from the QC videos and from my first week or two with the watch is not holding up. Fully wound up it's now at +20s/d. Haven't as previously mentioned been exposed to any sort of shock. Although I've been wearing it while (...) with my gf. But that shouldn't affect it to that degree(?) I've heard the rotor make a few noises but other than that not much at all.

I've actually thought a bit about exchanging the movement inside the watch to a real ETA 2824. or any other movement suitable for the watch.

Anyone with experience on exchanging movement or any person to recommend for me sending it to?

Why would you replace the movement at this point? The time grapher isn't something to think too much about, it's just to see that nothing crazy is wrong with the movement and that it is actually working.
20s a day is perfectly fine and within tolerance for a genuine ETA movement.
Take a step back and relax.

 

[museguy]

Bro the BP 3132 version is likely just an SA3135 (standard BP) with the fake 3132 engravings. SA3135 is the least desirable of all rep 3135 movements. The "3132" likely still has a crown position 2, and you can probably change an invisible date. Also, they don't sync the hands with the date change so that you would hear a date change click at some random time of the day. I have a BP OP39 that exhibits these exact characteristics.

The "2836" BP 214270's are in actuality 2824's - this mislabeling frequently occurs in the rep world. My gen movement is 2824; it was a 1:1 swap. This is actually a good thing; the stem height and crown positions on a 2824 and a 313x are very close, so those movements can usually be swapped around but be aware that hands hole sizes are different and would not be interchangeable. The 2836 has a much greater stem height, so the tube, crown, and stem sit a lot lower, and a 313x is not going to fit in the same case as a 2836 1:1.

TBH, I would buy this one and let the A2824 run till it dies, then put in a gen Swiss if you still love the watch. I have several reps going on 3 years with BP ETA clone movements still running strong and never been serviced. ETA clone movements are a very strong point of BP reps IME; clone BP 313x movements are the weakest link.

https://trustytime.io/index.php?main...ducts_id=18286

Dear KJ2020

How are you? I am excited to receive my BP 214270 Explorer I with the Asian 2824 movement!

I hope that you do not mind if I ask a couple of questions.

Please confirm my understanding:

1. The Rolex 214270 Explorer uses the caliber 3132 movement
2. The BP 214270 uses an "SH3132" or the Asian 2824
3. There is not a clone of a 3132 movement, only the 3135 with the date wheel removed and the engravings changed.
4. The BP 214270 case with the 2824 and SH3132 are slightly different because of the difference in the stem heights of the movements.
5. The Rolex 116610 uses the 3135, and the Rolex 126610 uses the 3235
6. The ETA 2824-2 is a movement with date; the ETA 2820 is a lower beat ETA 2824 without date (can find in Swatch watches)
7. You can install the VS3135 in the BP 214270 SH3132, but you need to remove the date wheel so it does not rub on the back of the dial

My question;
When you install the ETA 2824-2 in a BP 214270 A2824, do you remove the date wheel ?
With the ETA 2824-2 installed in the BP 214270, can you feel the date change ?


Thank you for your patience with my questions. For me, the fun part of replicas is learning about the movements and the difference between the watches.


Cheers

 

[KJ2020]

Please confirm my understanding:

1. The Rolex 214270 Explorer uses the caliber 3132 movement
2. The BP 214270 uses an "SH3132" or the Asian 2824
3. There is not a clone of a 3132 movement, only the 3135 with the date wheel removed and the engravings changed.
4. The BP 214270 case with the 2824 and SH3132 are slightly different because of the difference in the stem heights of the movements.
5. The Rolex 116610 uses the 3135, and the Rolex 126610 uses the 3235
6. The ETA 2824-2 is a movement with date; the ETA 2820 is a lower beat ETA 2824 without date (can find in Swatch watches)
7. You can install the VS3135 in the BP 214270 SH3132, but you need to remove the date wheel so it does not rub on the back of the dial

My question;
When you install the ETA 2824-2 in a BP 214270 A2824, do you remove the date wheel ?

With the ETA 2824-2 installed in the BP 214270, can you feel the date change?
Cheers

1. Yes. The new 36mm 124270 has been upgraded to the 3230 though
2. I would call the BP an SA3132 (really an SA3135). ARF uses SH's
3. There is very little difference between 3132 and 3135 except for calendar parts. ARF makes an SH3132, but IDK if they have removed the calendar parts. Also there is (supposed to be) one less crown position on a 3130/2. There are some clone 3130s.
4. 313x and 2824 stem positions are very close and BP may use the same case for both. It's the 2836s that have a greater stem height difference.
5. Yes
6. The 2820 is low beat no date

https://www.watch-wiki.net/index.php..._2800_calibres

7.you should be able to install any 313x into the BP 3132 214270. You don't have to remove the DW, it sits below the dial spacer rim and will not touch the dial backside, same as if there was a dial window.

Any correct size movement with calendar parts can be installed in a watch with a dial has has no date window. In a quiet setting you can hear a date flip that you can't see. Feeling it is possible too, though it's faint. I removed all the calendar parts in mine, and you can replace or modify one of the keyless parts (the combined setting lever jumper) so there is no quickset date crown position.

 

[museguy]

1. Yes. The new 36mm 124270 has been upgraded to the 3230 though
2. I would call the BP an SA3132 (really an SA3135). ARF uses SH's
3. There is very little difference between 3132 and 3135 except for calendar parts. ARF makes an SH3132, but IDK if they have removed the calendar parts. Also there is (supposed to be) one less crown position on a 3130/2. There are some clone 3130s.
4. 313x and 2824 stem positions are very close and BP may use the same case for both. It's the 2836s that have a greater stem height difference.
5. Yes
6. The 2820 is low beat no date

https://www.watch-wiki.net/index.php..._2800_calibres

7.you should be able to install any 313x into the BP 3132 214270. You don't have to remove the DW, it sits below the dial spacer rim and will not touch the dial backside, same as if there was a dial window.

Any correct size movement with calendar parts can be installed in a watch with a dial has no date window. In a quiet setting you can hear a date flip that you can't see. Feeling it is possible too, though it's faint. I removed all the calendar parts in mine, and you can replace or modify one of the keyless parts (the combined setting lever jumper) so there is no quickset date crown position.

Dear KJ2020,

Thank you for sharing your knowledge and experience, very much appreciated !

For me understanding the differences between the movements is fascinating and what makes the replica hobby so interesting.

I was not aware the BP 214270 uses a modified SA3135 (engraved with 3132), while the ARF uses an SH3132. I had to look up the 3130 as I was unaware of the movement. I also had to look up the 2836 (day / date) as I was unaware of the movement.

Your guidance is very much appreciated, thank you !

Cheers.

 

[KJ2020]

Dear KJ2020,

Thank you for sharing your knowledge and experience, very much appreciated !

For me understanding the differences between the movements is fascinating and what makes the replica hobby so interesting.

I was not aware the BP 214270 uses a modified SA3135 (engraved with 3132), while the ARF uses an SH3132. I had to look up the 3130 as I was unaware of the movement. I also had to look up the 2836 (day / date) as I was unaware of the movement.

Your guidance is very much appreciated, thank you !

Cheers.

It's entirely possible the ARF SH3132 is also an SH3135 just engraved with 3132. As I mentioned, IDK if ARF bothered to remove the calendar parts and the quickset date crown position. I chose the BP ETA partially for the simpler movement but also because SH movements commonly have autowind issues, leading to poor power reserve. It is not unusual to see members replace the autowind device or complete assembly (includes rotor) with gen parts. $250 ‐ $350 depending on source and condition.

Don't get me wrong, the ARF 214270 is a beautiful piece that many members cherish and a lot of us are willing to put extra money into reps we love. I tend to look for the simpler, less expensive ways to still achieve a decent quality result. Getting 95% toward gen costs a lot more than getting 90% there. That's a leap I usually won't take.

 

[museguy]

BP Explorer I, 904L steel, Asian 2824, bought from Andrew, $384 with shipping.

Dear KJ2020

Good morning! Thank you for your patience and guidance with the purchase of the BP Explorer I, a beautiful watch!

I have had the watch on the wrist for a few days now, and we are starting to bond.

​​​​​​​The BP bracelet is a little squeaky, need to give the bracelet a WD40 bath. The Asian 2824 keeps good time, although the movement feels like it has a little bit of "sand in the gears".

Thank you!

Cheers

 

[KJ2020]

Thank you!

Cheers

Very nice bro, looks like you got a good sample. Shame about the gritty winding, I have some BP ETA clones still running perfectly after several years. Maybe a gen ETA sooner than later, I wouldn't spend the money servicing it. Buy you can get some return on it selling the movement M2M.