DIY Serial etching - Work in progress

[Karbon74]

For the mask the numbers portion would be the only thing that is printed. Everything else would just be transparent. The printed numbers would block the uv light and leave that portion to be washed away.

the wash would leave hardened film (from the transparent portion of the mask) around the area and the numbers would have nothing at all left behind so you would see the raw steel. The raw steel then gets etched and material is removed. Once you are done with that you use another chemical to remove the hardned photoresist and you are left with the steel case and the now etched numbers with depth.

thanks!
I think I got it now.
So the light actually hardens the exposed film, and the unexposed parts (lettering) melt away using washing soda. Correct?

 

[Karbon74]

this made it much clearer

 

[Horace_Derwent]

@Megahz1 : your work is brilliant!

Do you plan to etching also non vintage pieces?

 

[Megahz1]

@Horace_Derwent I do not think I will as most of the modern reps already have the "correct" serials.
I am planning on engraving a caseback for a Tudor 9411 that I am building. I have gathered everything from dial to ETA 2873, but I am missing the case. I will be ordering a JKF in the next weeks and post here the engravings.

 

[Singapore9]

Looking forward to seeing that! Sounds like a great build!

 

[dpd3672]

Another option for masking the areas you don't want to etch:

Using Acetone To Create Print Transfers

Looking for an easy way to print transfer a logo or image? Don’t have time to get transfer paper? Did you know you can use… regular paper? Turns out there’s a pretty awesome metho…

hackaday.com

 

[Karbon74]

do you think the ink transfered will be enough to block the electricity?

 

[dpd3672]

do you think the ink transfered will be enough to block the electricity?

Only one way to find out.

But my (limited) understanding is that electricity follows the path of least resistance, so really ANYTHING that looks like an obstacle is avoided. Could try it on some scrap metal, but I won't be able to in the near future.

 

[Karbon74]

i will try some time next year
i can't wear my 1016 on leather. I keep staring at those sterile parts between the lugs

 

[Megahz1]

So I finally etched the caseback for my latest Tudor build; here some pics!





Of course it still needs to be polished but I think it turned out great and I am pretty satisfied.

 

[Megahz1]

Adding it here also so it will not get lost in the 1016 thread...

 

[aphmars13]

Another thread that will keep me up at night.....

 

[Derau]

Amazing

 

[chrome72]

Adding it here also so it will not get lost in the 1016 thread...

How are you keeping the stencil portion against the uv film on the case when you apply the uv light?

 

[369mafia]

So I finally etched the caseback for my latest Tudor build; here some pics!





Of course it still needs to be polished but I think it turned out great and I am pretty satisfied.

want

 

[Megahz1]

How are you keeping the stencil portion against the uv film on the case when you apply the uv light?

Some scotch tape does the trick!

 

[joeyc]

Hi everyone,
I was bothered by the ugly serials that come with "cheap" cases (JKF, Raffles, etc...), but unfortunately I do not have access to a CNC nor to a pantograph engraver.
I know that there are members on the forum that do amazing serial engravings, but I prefer experimenting and doing this type of stuff by myself.
After having a look at this great article https://www.chrono-shop.net/en/blog/rolex-serial-numbers-find-your-rolex-production-date--n23 I decided to create my own design on Inkscape using images of period correct watches matching my builds (currently planning on doing this on 5513 and 1016 builds).
I am not yet ready to do this on an actual case, but for the moment I did some testing on a piece of SS. The process is done using PCB photosensitive film and saltwater etching and I think the results are pretty good considering how tiny the letters/numbers are.
Here some pics for you to judge!







Apart from the top portion of the letter "A" which should be flat, I think the results are good; remember that these are less than 20mm wide and look more consistent IRL.
Let me know what you think and if I should change something or if you see something wrong other than the letter "A", I am currently testing so your feedback is appreciated.
I will post progress and results as soon as I perfect the technique!

Very nice work!!!

 

[1016 lover]

Adding it here also so it will not get lost in the 1016 thread...

Nice case work, have you got other pictures if thé case

 

[Megahz1]

Nice case work, have you got other pictures if thé case

Finally my 2.7mm cobalt drill bit arrived and I retapped the case, now it accepts gen spec tubes & crowns and I installed the correct ones.
I also enlarged the inner diameter of the retaining ring so the crystal will fit without having to shave it down and having it crack after a while.
I am basically done with it other than rebrushing the lugs as I am not satisfied with how they are atm. I would also need suggestions as to what serial would be better for the yuki dial I posted on page #156 as I am a bit lost

Have a look in the 1016 thread, I posted some pics there!