Decal printed dial

[WatchN3RD]

Again, thanks to everyone for the feedback! My last dial transfer was a disappointment for sure, but I tossed it a case for motivation anyway. No date wheel, no sweep hand... just needed some an extra push to stay on track. The feedback is helpful there too. Gave me a few more ideas to try out and needed the reminder to keep heat/pressure higher up on the list with toner transfer. And finally, to remind myself that a shit lume job at the start, will stay as a shit lume all the way through.

Here's a picture for everyone's amusement, but I still think it's another success for finding out what doesn't work!

 

[chrome72]

Again, thanks to everyone for the feedback! My last dial transfer was a disappointment for sure, but I tossed it a case for motivation anyway. No date wheel, no sweep hand... just needed some an extra push to stay on track. The feedback is helpful there too. Gave me a few more ideas to try out and needed the reminder to keep heat/pressure higher up on the list with toner transfer. And finally, to remind myself that a shit lume job at the start, will stay as a shit lume all the way through.

Here's a picture for everyone's amusement, but I still think it's another success for finding out what doesn't work!

is this film free transfer?

 

[chrome72]

Semi related...whatever happened to the originator of this thread, Bart Cordel? He hasn't be on since 2022.

 

[janneau]

Haven't decided whether to do an albino or gilt dial for my budget 6542, so re-drew both. Would prefer the gilt, but the albino would be easier.

 

[janneau]

Cheapo Nh34 case turned up for the build. Need to put more of a bevelled angle on the bottom of the bezel ring. It was a 120 click uni bezel but I took the spring and pin out when I took it off to brass the ring.

38.5 wide
15 thick
47 tall

 

[WatchN3RD]

is this film free transfer?

Yes. Every once in a while, I can get about 95% of the toner to transfer with Sunnyscopa film free. I also tried another brand, but the heat required to melt the toner seemed to fuse the toner to the transfer film. It might be the specific toner I'm using, but I have the feeling I need a different transfer medium. Is yellow PCB transfer paper less sensitive to higher temps?

 

[chrome72]

Yes. Every once in a while, I can get about 95% of the toner to transfer with Sunnyscopa film free. I also tried another brand, but the heat required to melt the toner seemed to fuse the toner to the transfer film. It might be the specific toner I'm using, but I have the feeling I need a different transfer medium. Is yellow PCB transfer paper less sensitive to higher temps?

I bought a laser printer with 1200 x 1200 dpi thinking it would be the end all be all. I tried all my normal heat/pressure/time combos on my usual paper but found it would only transfer at like 280F but at that temp the toner started to instantly smudge. I tried the printer on the yellow paper and was able to successfully transfer at 220F. So I think the "glue" that is on the paper releases at a lot lower temp.

 

[WatchN3RD]

I bought a laser printer with 1200 x 1200 dpi thinking it would be the end all be all. I tried all my normal heat/pressure/time combos on my usual paper but found it would only transfer at like 280F but at that temp the toner started to instantly smudge. I tried the printer on the yellow paper and was able to successfully transfer at 220F. So I think the "glue" that is on the paper releases at a lot lower temp.

Thanks. That's definitely worth a try then! I definitely need an easier release. And hopefully a lower temperature won't cause additional issues. Is there any chance the yellow paper could still be more stable at higher temperatures too?
My only concern would be if the "glue" started to release before the toner reached its required temperature. In other words, if my toner theoretically needed to reach 280+ degrees, would the "glue" still retain its releasing properties at those higher temps? Yellow paper is on the way, so hopefully it's the silver bullet I'm looking for.

 

[chrome72]

Thanks. That's definitely worth a try then! I definitely need an easier release. And hopefully a lower temperature won't cause additional issues. Is there any chance the yellow paper could still be more stable at higher temperatures too?
My only concern would be if the "glue" started to release before the toner reached its required temperature. In other words, if my toner theoretically needed to reach 280+ degrees, would the "glue" still retain its releasing properties at those higher temps? Yellow paper is on the way, so hopefully it's the silver bullet I'm looking for.

As mentioned above, it took my toner 280F in my t shirt heat press to start to get sticky before it would release. That was on transparency film. When i used the same toner on yellow paper, it worked perfectly at 220F in my laminator. So in my experience, temperature differences won't matter. Worst comes to worse, you wasted $10 on yellow transfer paper!

On a similar line of thought, you might be able to find the SDS (Safety data sheet) for your specific toner. Most of the time, the SDS will list the temp at which the toner starts to melt. You can use that as a starting point and not have to do extra guess work.

 

[janneau]

New printer (Canon ts6351a) test print (still waiting on Nh34 blank dial so tried out on non-window dial blank with the gold vinyl wrap film on it)
6542 Gilt GMT 'underline

Just a test, but very pleased with the result

 

[janneau]

First attempt on the overlay.

 

[janneau]

Test print for the albino dial.

Came out pretty crisp, but probably going to go with the black gilt dial for the build

 

[chrome72]

Test print for the albino dial.

Came out pretty crisp, but probably going to go with the black gilt dial for the build

That’s awesome. Film free again?

 

[chrome72]

How are you guys hand polishing your lacquer? Tips, tricks?

I found out that a piece if aluminum sucks up heat from a dremel when using the dremel on brass. It prevents deformation of the brass. Curious if anyone is polishing the glossy finish with a dremel and compound.

 

[janneau]

How are you guys hand polishing your lacquer? Tips, tricks?

I found out that a piece if aluminum sucks up heat from a dremel when using the dremel on brass. It prevents deformation of the brass. Curious if anyone is polishing the glossy finish with a dremel and compound.

I use Rustoleum gloss lacquer and wet sanded with 3000 grit.

I thought the top text was too bold compared to the original so re-done it for the second attempt

 

[chrome72]

I use Rustoleum gloss lacquer and wet sanded with 3000 grit.

I thought the top text was too bold compared to the original so re-done it for the second attempt

Are you just doing 3000 and calling it a day?

Also what paint are you using for the white? I have a lacquer paint that is temperamental when exposed to heat

 

[janneau]

Are you just doing 3000 and calling it a day?

Also what paint are you using for the white? I have a lacquer paint that is temperamental when exposed to heat

I'm just using regular waterslide film over Loop rattlecan white, not the heat method.

 

[janneau]

The re-done/cleaned up albino

 

[janneau]

Increased the chapter ring size so it's nearer the rehaut, reduced boldness some more and played around with the kerning



Trying to get as near to this orig as poss:



Think thats as good as I'll get it

 

[WatchN3RD]

@chrome72
I've always stayed away from trying to polish paint or clear coat with a dremel. Some speed is okay, but dremels are high RPM and will easily burn through the paint. You can try watering down your polish, but I would recommend using something like a dremel polishing bit in an electric screwdriver (or a even the screwdriver with a mini foam polishing pad). It's difficult to polish something so small, even a little snag on the edge can burn right through. It happens with industrial 2k paints, and lacquer or acrylic is nowhere near as hard and is more sensitive to heat. In my experience, a buffing wheel is usually safer than a dremel, depending on the polishing compound.