Comprehensive Guide to Clone Movements Found in Rolex Reps

[dogwood]

I did read the guide. I also looked at the pictures. I just asked to get a better ID than I could manage.

I’m sort of new to this so, is asking a question when you are unsure not an appropriate thing to do?

I guess I’ll just keep my noob questions to myself then so I can remain hindered by my limited abilities and brain.

Sorry to have bothered the community.

No.

Asking questions is perfect fine. In fact it’s encouraged.

The reason I poked fun at harry4444 was because he asked two questions both of which had answers that would have been easy to find in the original post; AND (importantly) both of his questions were asked in a way that implied he hadn’t bothered to look for the answer himself.

Harry4444 first asked what the movement in the new ARF gmt was. No problem. Not everyone knows what to look for and be sure they’re made the correct identification even with the annotated images in the guide.

But harry4444’s follow up question was a terse (and grammatically incomplete): “This movement accept gen parts or a Timebomb movement?”

Nothing rubs me worse than answering a noob’s question only to get a reply that doesn’t offer any thanks, and demands (with poor grammar) to be further spoon-fed.

If harry4444 had instead replied with: “thanks for the help IDing that movement, I’m new to this hobby, so can use all the help I can get; I’ve read the relevant section of the guide, but I’m not 100% sure if the sh3235 v2 is reliable and if it will accept X, Y, and Z gen parts”, then my response would have been quite different.

The community at RWI has almost limitless patience and support for new members who are trying (and failing at first) to figure things out. But the community can be borderline hostile to new members who repeatedly ask questions without demonstrating that they’ve tried (and failed) to find the answer on their own.

The golden ticket to this community (as far as I can tell) is to show that you’ve put in a little bit of effort before you ask a question.

Here’s an example:

User SpoonyMcFeedMe asks: “who makes the best sub?”

Vs.

User ReaderMcSearchBar asks: “hey I’ve been researching subs, and I’ve seen that VSF has the best movement, ARF has a great bracelet, and Clean doesn’t have a floating ‘m’ on the dial, and RAF have the 2824 movement which doesn’t have an instant date change but is priced a lot lower. I’m looking for something that won’t break the bank and I got to bed early so I’ll never be awake to see the slow date change… so I’m leading RAF. Of the four options I’ve researched is there anything I’m missing before I pull the trigger on the RAF?”

See the difference? SpooneyMcFeedMe is gonna get roasted, whereas ReaderMcSearchBar is probably gonna get ratioed with upvotes.

 

[harry4444]

No.

Asking questions is perfect fine. In fact it’s encouraged.

The reason I poked fun at harry4444 was because he asked two questions both of which had answers that would have been easy to find in the original post; AND (importantly) both of his questions were asked in a way that implied he hadn’t bothered to look for the answer himself.

Harry4444 first asked what the movement in the new ARF gmt was. No problem. Not everyone knows what to look for and be sure they’re made the correct identification even with the annotated images in the guide.

But harry4444’s follow up question was a terse (and grammatically incomplete): “This movement accept gen parts or a Timebomb movement?”

Nothing rubs me worse than answering a noob’s question only to get a reply that doesn’t offer any thanks, and demands (with poor grammar) to be further spoon-fed.

If harry4444 had instead replied with: “thanks for the help IDing that movement, I’m new to this hobby, so can use all the help I can get; I’ve read the relevant section of the guide, but I’m not 100% sure if the sh3235 v2 is reliable and if it will accept X, Y, and Z gen parts”, then my response would have been quite different.

The community at RWI has almost limitless patience and support for new members who are trying (and failing at first) to figure things out. But the community can be borderline hostile to new members who repeatedly ask questions without demonstrating that they’ve tried (and failed) to find the answer on their own.

The golden ticket to this community (as far as I can tell) is to show that you’ve put in a little bit of effort before you ask a question.

Here’s an example:

User SpoonyMcFeedMe asks: “who makes the best sub?”

Vs.

User ReaderMcSearchBar asks: “hey I’ve been researching subs, and I’ve seen that VSF has the best movement, ARF has a great bracelet, and Clean doesn’t have a floating ‘m’ on the dial, and RAF have the 2824 movement which doesn’t have an instant date change but is priced a lot lower. I’m looking for something that won’t break the bank and I got to bed early so I’ll never be awake to see the slow date change… so I’m leading RAF. Of the four options I’ve researched is there anything I’m missing before I pull the trigger on the RAF?”

See the difference? SpooneyMcFeedMe is gonna get roasted, whereas ReaderMcSearchBar is probably gonna get ratioed with upvotes.

Sorry just read this reply today as i forgot my password here at rwi to log.in
Thank you @dogwood I learn a lot from this thread Im going for a Clean gmt master because im more on movement reliablity rather than the exterior qualities

 

[dogwood]

Sorry just read this reply today as i forgot my password here at rwi to log.in
Thank you @dogwood I learn a lot from this thread Im going for a Clean gmt master because im more on movement reliablity rather than the exterior qualities

Congrats on an excellent choice — Clean GMTs with the superb dd3285 movement are (in my opinion) the way to go for GMTs at the moment.

 

[harry4444]

Congrats on an excellent choice — Clean GMTs with the superb dd3285 movement are (in my opinion) the way to go for GMTs at the moment.

Thank you Sir will post pics here once it arrive

 

[BlueSub]

Hello All,
I am a new member and so not sure which thread or who to approach with my questions, apologies if Im in the wrong thread, it would be appreciated if someone could point me in the right direction.
I recently purchased a replica Daytona 126500LN, with DD4131 movement. from Clean Factory and notice the chronograph second hand does not reset to the true 12 o'clock position but slightly to the left, see photo.
After several times start and stop and reset of the chronograph the second hand consistently resets to the exact same position.
Everything else with the watch is absolutely perfect and I am very impressed with the quality of manufacturing and finish.
I contacted Clean about this and they wrote back "Our watches are hand made same as genuine, there is little difference is in the normal range. If you feel not satisfied, could you please take it to the jewelry to ask how much to adjust it and let me know, I will try to feedback to my manager to pay the fee for you"
As I feel there is risk to return the watch to China (and get it back again), and as advised by RWI, I think I should first try to deal with this issue in the USA (I am in Seattle).
I recognise some people will see this issue as relatively unimportant but I would like to investigate if the issue can be corrected.
As I am not a watchmaker, my questions are;
1. Is this issue normal for original and or replicas and to be accepted? I do not thing Rolex would ship out a watch with this misalignment.
2. Can and how could this be fixed? It would seem to me the issue is the chronograph second hand has been assembled slightly out of position by Clean and they did not QC that very well. I dont think it is a matter of replacing a faulty movement, as the chronograph second hand consistently resets to the same position, but of removing and repositioning the hand.
3. Who could fix this? Which watchmaker in the US could do it? I can imagine the watch has to be taken apart to get to the hands. This seems a complicated job but can it be done? I see a list of TDs but not of competent watchmakers. Perhaps there is a trusted RWI member who would be interested in the job for a fee?

Any thoughts, advice and information would be greatly appreciated.

Sincerely,
BlueSub

 

[geoffdragon]

@BlueSub
I am sure there post on here but I can't find it right now...so this will have to do.

https://www.reddit.com/r/RepTime/comments/1gi7r8j

 

[BlueSub]

Wow, that's brilliant info Geoff, thank you very much, I will check that out.
Any recommendations for a watchmaker in the USA who could make that adjustment?

 

[chrisat]

I don't think your Clean Factory 126500 comes with a DD4131

 

[dogwood]

I don't think your Clean Factory 126500 comes with a DD4131

You are correct. The 12-series Daytonas from
clean come with the SH4131 movement.

@geoffdragon thanks for linking to my post on Reddit about how to use the eccentric screw on the hammer to adjust the reset position of the chronograph seconds hand. I should caution, it’s somewhat risky to DIY the hammer is an extremely delicate part.

@BlueSub I’m in Vancouver BC. If you’re ever up north of 49, I can do the adjustment for you.

 

[intellects]

I know VS3130 is supposed to be the best true clone no date but since it’s not available for sale on its own, is the VR3130 good enough or is it better to just switch to an ETA-based build?

 

[dogwood]

I know VS3130 is supposed to be the best true clone no date but since it’s not available for sale on its own, is the VR3130 good enough or is it better to just switch to an ETA-based build?

If you’re building from scratch, get a vs3135 and use dial side gen parts to convert it to a 3130 if you want the best. But if you want the best out of the box, then the best (and only) option is the vr3130.

 

[intellects]

If you’re building from scratch, get a vs3135 and use dial side gen parts to convert it to a 3130 if you want the best. But if you want the best out of the box, then the best (and only) option is the vr3130.

Ive heard about the conversion to 3130, do you have any more instructions or tutorials on how to do it? I haven’t done any movement modding yet but willing to learn

 

[dogwood]

Ive heard about the conversion to 3130, do you have any more instructions or tutorials on how to do it? I haven’t done any movement modding yet but willing to learn

I haven’t done it myself, but I suspect you’d just need to remove the date works components from the dial side, and then swap in a gen setting lever jumper to remove the middle date correction position from the keyless works. But keep in mind I’m typing this on my phone from my bed where I’ve just woken up. So take my pre-caffeinated musings for what they are.

 

[Jnkay1]

Fantastic thread. Thank you!
You mention that there are two versions of the VR3235; one for the DJ and one for 41mm subs. On AliExpress, they all say they are for sub/ DJ. Is there a way that I can tell whether a given VR3235 will fit a 41mm sub?

 

[dogwood]

Fantastic thread. Thank you!
You mention that there are two versions of the VR3235; one for the DJ and one for 41mm subs. On AliExpress, they all say they are for sub/ DJ. Is there a way that I can tell whether a given VR3235 will fit a 41mm sub?

On AliExpress you'll almost always have to select the "Style" or "Color" of the VR3235 which will allow you to specify if it's for a sub or DJ. If you don't see this option listed you should contact the vendor and ask specifically for the one you are looking for. There are ways to tell if a VR3235 is for a DJ or for a sub by looking at the dial side (the DJ version has a top plate the extends outwards in four tabs to allow it to mesh properly with the wider DJ dial. But if you can't specify which version you want on the listing page on AliExpress, I would strongly suggest that you contact the vendor to specify, because you don't want to get the wrong version.

 

[Jnkay1]

On AliExpress you'll almost always have to select the "Style" or "Color" of the VR3235 which will allow you to specify if it's for a sub or DJ. If you don't see this option listed you should contact the vendor and ask specifically for the one you are looking for. There are ways to tell if a VR3235 is for a DJ or for a sub by looking at the dial side (the DJ version has a top plate the extends outwards in four tabs to allow it to mesh properly with the wider DJ dial. But if you can't specify which version you want on the listing page on AliExpress, I would strongly suggest that you contact the vendor to specify, because you don't want to get the wrong version.

Perfect. I see the difference and how to select. Thanks again.

 

[BlueSub]

I don't think your Clean Factory 126500 comes with a DD4131

If so then thats disappointing. That is what I was told by their rep Jerry. If the watch is taken apart to adjust the chronograph hand then I will ask for a photo of the movement and post it on RWI.

 

[BlueSub]

You are correct. The 12-series Daytonas from
clean come with the SH4131 movement.

@geoffdragon thanks for linking to my post on Reddit about how to use the eccentric screw on the hammer to adjust the reset position of the chronograph seconds hand. I should caution, it’s somewhat risky to DIY the hammer is an extremely delicate part.

@BlueSub I’m in Vancouver BC. If you’re ever up north of 49, I can do the adjustment for you.

dogwood, thank you for your kind offer to adjust the chrono hand, is it a lengthy process? Also if Im coming up to Van whats the best way to get in touch, perhaps send a message on RWI?
Ive also asked Jerry, the Clean rep, if he can send me a photo of the back of their 126500 showing the movement. I dont know if he will but if so I'll post it here. Im concerned he either made a "mistake" telling me the movement is DD4131 or has perhaps Clean just switched supplier to DD? Also in your opinion which factory makes the best 116500, is it Clean? I would check this myself but cant download the spreadsheet of best rep watches as Google has blocked my account, very annoying. Is it possible to get it from somewhere other than Google docs?

 

[BlueSub]

dogwood, thank you for your kind offer to adjust the chrono hand, is it a lengthy process? Also if Im coming up to Van whats the best way to get in touch, perhaps send a message on RWI?
Ive also asked Jerry, the Clean rep, if he can send me a photo of the back of their 126500 showing the movement. I dont know if he will but if so I'll post it here. Im concerned he either made a "mistake" telling me the movement is DD4131 or has perhaps Clean just switched supplier to DD? Also in your opinion which factory makes the best 116500, is it Clean? I would check this myself but cant download the spreadsheet of best rep watches as Google has blocked my account, very annoying. Is it possible to get it from somewhere other than Google docs?

This is the back of the 126500 from the Clean website, dont know if you can tell who made the movement from this photo?

 

[xZeroCoolx]

This is the back of the 126500 from the Clean website, dont know if you can tell who made the movement from this photo?

That's the older SH. And Clean doesn't just switch movements, BTF and VSF have exclusive use of the DD4131 right now. There are 20+ pages of valuable information in this thread alone and thousands more on the forum, I would spend a couple weeks, maybe even several doing research.