• Tired of adverts on RWI? - Subscribe by clicking HERE and PMing Trailboss for instructions and they will magically go away!

Comprehensive Guide to Clone Movements Found in Rolex Reps

Levko

Just looking
3/10/23
2
0
1
Is the automatic barrel bridge of the sh4131 interchangeable with the one from the 4130?
 

dogwood

I'm Pretty Popular
Patron
Section Moderator
Certified
7/9/21
2,210
4,498
113
Canada
Is the automatic barrel bridge of the sh4131 interchangeable with the one from the 4130?
At this point I haven’t seen anybody who has performed this swap. It’s possible since the known differences of the SH4130/4131 from the gen are in the escapement — escape wheel, pallet fork, and balance. The automatic works on the 413x sits on top of the chronograph bridge and barrel bridge. So it’s possible that the changes in the escapement are isolated enough that they won’t affect the fit of a gen automatic bridge. But as I mentioned in the main article, the dd4131 is probably a better starting movement for any franken 12-series Daytona build.
 

Service

I'm New. Unknown to this website.
2/9/24
53
31
18
Thanks for this thread Dogwood. It's been excellent in assisting me with which factories I should select for my Rolex replicas.
 
  • Like
Reactions: dogwood

Cubatobaco

Horological Specimen
Supporter
Certified
24/6/24
336
351
63
VA
I just acquired a Clean GMT II case with a (basically brand new) jubilee band. This will be my first attempt at a build. I am looking at a DD3285 from Aliexpress, but is there anywhere else I should look? Also, can gen parts be easily swapped on this movement (bridges and things)?

I'l be needing a crown/stem, bezel with all the rings, insert, etc, and a dial. Any help would be appreciated. Sorry if tis isn't the right place to ask.
 
  • Like
Reactions: juancarlospapito

xZeroCoolx

Known Member
Patron
Certified
22/10/22
181
227
43
US
I just acquired a Clean GMT II case with a (basically brand new) jubilee band. This will be my first attempt at a build. I am looking at a DD3285 from Aliexpress, but is there anywhere else I should look? Also, can gen parts be easily swapped on this movement (bridges and things)?

I'l be needing a crown/stem, bezel with all the rings, insert, etc, and a dial. Any help would be appreciated. Sorry if tis isn't the right place to ask.
You aren't getting a DD3285 from Aliexpress or anywhere else for that matter. They very infrequently come up for sale and are difficult to get and you will pay for it.

Most likely cheaper to just buy the watch 😅
 

Cubatobaco

Horological Specimen
Supporter
Certified
24/6/24
336
351
63
VA
You aren't getting a DD3285 from Aliexpress or anywhere else for that matter. They very infrequently come up for sale and are difficult to get and you will pay for it.

Most likely cheaper to just buy the watch 😅
Thanks for the heads up...and for laughing.
 

GellyCool4

Do not accept unsolicited offers
18/5/23
7
2
3
USA
I believe the latest version of the SH3285 has the same arms (beat and regulator) on the bridge that we used to differentiate between it and the DD3285. The guide might be due for an update.

This is probably true for the DD/SH3235 as well.

Also, what are your latest thoughts on the DD4131? I’m eager to see it disassembled.
What "guide" is everyone talking about in this thread? I am a little new here and still trying to get accustomed to this platform / design.
 

dogwood

I'm Pretty Popular
Patron
Section Moderator
Certified
7/9/21
2,210
4,498
113
Canada
What "guide" is everyone talking about in this thread? I am a little new here and still trying to get accustomed to this platform / design.
See the first post in this thread. You’ll know it when you see it.
 

SS72

I'm Pretty Popular
Supporter
Certified
27/9/12
2,905
9,887
113
Australia
The gritty feeling when threading on the crown could be from grit in the threads. Remove the crown (press the release in the winding position). Then use a foam (not cotton) swap to clean the threads both on the crown tube and inside the crown. Then apply a little bit of o-ring lubricant to the o-rings in the tube and the one in the crown.
Did this yesterday with my Clean 124060. It was very rough, gritty, and the crown wouldn't even do that obvious spring/pop out when unscrewed to the winding position. The crown spring was so full of crap . . .

Removed it from the movement (VR3230 and had it in the time setting position prior to removal), thoroughly cleaned both threads with waxed dental floss, put a tiny dab of o-ring lube on the tube thread and gaskets, and popped the stem back in.

Lovely and smooth, and no resistance whatsoever. This is by far one of the easiest, best DIY improvements.

Thank you.
 

Cubatobaco

Horological Specimen
Supporter
Certified
24/6/24
336
351
63
VA
Did this yesterday with my Clean 124060. It was very rough, gritty, and the crown wouldn't even do that obvious spring/pop out when unscrewed to the winding position. The crown spring was so full of crap . . .

Removed it from the movement (VR3230 and had it in the time setting position prior to removal), thoroughly cleaned both threads with waxed dental floss, put a tiny dab of o-ring lube on the tube thread and gaskets, and popped the stem back in.

Lovely and smooth, and no resistance whatsoever. This is by far one of the easiest, best DIY improvements.

Thank you.
I have found just removing the stem and reinserting, does a lot. My Daytona moves flawlessly, as well as my GMT. Need to purchase some blue grease, but so far so good.
 

SS72

I'm Pretty Popular
Supporter
Certified
27/9/12
2,905
9,887
113
Australia
I have found just removing the stem and reinserting, does a lot. My Daytona moves flawlessly, as well as my GMT. Need to purchase some blue grease, but so far so good.
Not with mine. Should've taken a photo of all the crap compacted in the threads, especially down near the crown o-ring.

Glad your solution was easy. I'll try it first with my next one.