-
Tired of adverts on RWI? - Subscribe by clicking HERE and PMing Trailboss for instructions and they will magically go away!
Comprehensive Guide to Clone Movements Found in Rolex Reps
- Thread starter dogwood
- Start date
This is absolutely amazing! Thank you for all the time and effort you put into this. Extremely informative and helped considerably!
Ciko1984
Getting To Know The Place
- 11/1/24
- 21
- 1
- 3
Hi friend!
I have a vs3235 too, what I would like to buy a vs 3135..
Is it good reliable movement ?
I would like to choose this because is cheap to replace and you find a lot of spare parts. So the only difference if is power reserve I would not be a problem ?
Did you find issues in this mov ? Thank yo
Ciko1984
Getting To Know The Place
- 11/1/24
- 21
- 1
- 3
My apologies if this has been asked and answered:
Is there a proper way to set and/or wind the DD4130 and/or VS3235 movements? I’ve heard something about only winding a certain amount of times or only changing the date and/or winding when both hands are pointed down to the 6:30 position to increase the longevity of the true clone movements. I’ve also heard to change the date slowly. Are there any special things I need to know?
Is there a proper way to set and/or wind the DD4130 and/or VS3235 movements? I’ve heard something about only winding a certain amount of times or only changing the date and/or winding when both hands are pointed down to the 6:30 position to increase the longevity of the true clone movements. I’ve also heard to change the date slowly. Are there any special things I need to know?
I’ve never heard of holding the watch in a certain position when winding it. Thinking about the keyless and winding works of both of those movements, there’s nothing that can move due to gravity, so you could wind the watch on a roller coaster and it would be just fine.
In terms of setting the time & date, on the dd4130 there’s nothing to think about, just pull the crown and set the time clockwise or counter clockwise.
On the vs3235 (and vr3235 and gen 3235) there are two important things to keep in mind.
1) You should always set the time clockwise if you need to go past midnight. So the time is 10pm, and your watch is set to 2am you should advance it 20 hours rather than reversing it 4 hours. But if the time is 3pm and your watch is set to 7pm you can reverse is 4 hours. But because there’s no AM/PM indicator on the dial, you’re better off to always just set the time forwards. If you set the time backwards past midnight you are forcing the roller jewel on the date finger cam up a steep slope. The jewel will roll over that slope but it requires a lot of force which all needs to be transmitted through the tiny teeth of the setting works gears and the sliding pinion. The alloys used for these parts on reps isn’t as strong as the alloys used on gen parts, so there’s a risk (albeit small) of stripping teeth from the wheels. For this reason I only ever set the time forwards.
2) Never use the date quick correction when the watch is displaying a time between 10pm and 3am. During these hours there’s a risk of breaking the date finger if you use the date quick correct.
Awesome resource! I commend you for your time & effort. So am I correct in thinking that the only’tell’ between a Gen 3135 and a VS3135 is that the rep will have two levers off the balance and the Gen will only have one? Thanks.Yes, to the naked eye the balance is the easy way to tell gen 3135 from vs3135. But under magnification it’s possible to see a difference in the surface finish of the parts.
Fantastic write up. If purchasing a 41mm Sub with the VS3235 movement. Does it still need to be disassembled, cleaned and regreased?
The vs3235 is an excellent movement. If your QC pics showed a healthy amplitude (>250 with lift angle set to 55 degrees), then you probably don’t need to get it serviced right away. But you’ll probably want to get it serviced within a couple of years and then every 5-10 years after that — every 5 years if it’s a daily watch, 10 years if it’s a drawer queen.
Hi Dogwood,
Have been enjoying your post’s immensely! I have a VS on its way and have just received QC, I have made a post in the General forum with regards to amplitude before I saw this post… the timegrapher has been set at 59 degrees which I believe for some reason VS factory say that this is how it should be tested?. Is that just to achieve higher amp values? So at 55 degrees it is sitting at about 256 amplitude… so you think this is acceptable? Hope so as the rest of it looks incredible
There is some debate about what the correct lift angle is for the vs3235. I tend to use 55 degrees when I'm using my time grapher. Although I've seen others use 58 degrees. And you are correct that increasing the lift angle setting on a time grapher will result in a calculated value for amplitude which is higher.
I would not worry about a calculated amplitude of 256 degrees with a lift angle setting of 55 degrees. The ideal is usually around 270 degrees. But the movement will likely still keep very good time between 220 and 310 degrees. The hairsprings use in reps are as linear as those found on gen balances (here I mean "Linear" in the sense of the restoring torque of the spring increases *linearly* with rotational displacement of the balance wheel), but they are generally linear enough that a rep balance will still keep good time through a reasonable range of amplitudes.
Question about the SA4130 on Daytona I recently purchased new. It is a 116509 (replica of white gold with blue dial). Attached are photos of the movement, I took the back off to ensure it was the correct movement. Here’s the issue:
After winding and setting the watch, when screwing down the crown, it changes the time (from time to time, no pun intended). Also as it’s tightening down, I can also feel it wind a little more. The additional winding doesn’t bother me but it’s certainly a pain to set the time and then have to unscrew the crown and redo it. Is this common or is there something that can be done to fix it?
After winding and setting the watch, when screwing down the crown, it changes the time (from time to time, no pun intended). Also as it’s tightening down, I can also feel it wind a little more. The additional winding doesn’t bother me but it’s certainly a pain to set the time and then have to unscrew the crown and redo it. Is this common or is there something that can be done to fix it?
The movement in your Daytona is a Dandong 4130. This is an excellent (the best) Daytona movement.Question about the SA4130 on Daytona I recently purchased new. It is a 116509 (replica of white gold with blue dial). Attached are photos of the movement, I took the back off to ensure it was the correct movement. Here’s the issue:
After winding and setting the watch, when screwing down the crown, it changes the time (from time to time, no pun intended). Also as it’s tightening down, I can also feel it wind a little more. The additional winding doesn’t bother me but it’s certainly a pain to set the time and then have to unscrew the crown and redo it. Is this common or is there something that can be done to fix it?
The issue you’re describing is related to the keyless works not snapping back into winding mode before you screw down the crown. This could be because the stem was cut a fraction of a mm too short, or perhaps the spring in your crown pusher is not quite stiff enough. Regardless, try making sure you fully push the crown in so that you’re in the winding position *before* you try to screw the crown down.
Forgot to mention, it also feels gritty when I’m screwing it down, this is the only 4130 I have but the VS3235 I have screws down very smoothlyQuestion about the SA4130 on Daytona I recently purchased new. It is a 116509 (replica of white gold with blue dial). Attached are photos of the movement, I took the back off to ensure it was the correct movement. Here’s the issue:
After winding and setting the watch, when screwing down the crown, it changes the time (from time to time, no pun intended). Also as it’s tightening down, I can also feel it wind a little more. The additional winding doesn’t bother me but it’s certainly a pain to set the time and then have to unscrew the crown and redo it. Is this common or is there something that can be done to fix it?
The gritty feeling when threading on the crown could be from grit in the threads. Remove the crown (press the release in the winding position). Then use a foam (not cotton) swap to clean the threads both on the crown tube and inside the crown. Then apply a little bit of o-ring lubricant to the o-rings in the tube and the one in the crown.
- 25/9/22
- 6,309
- 17,389
- 113
I forgot to say but have you seen this weird skeletonized 4130?
It's been used in some replicas, it's claimed to be a 4130 but some parts are 7750... any thoughts @dogwood ?
forum.replica-watch.info
It's been used in some replicas, it's claimed to be a 4130 but some parts are 7750... any thoughts @dogwood ?
New 4130 Movement, different from SA4130, in new skeleton daytona.
There is a new 4130 movement, the shock and wheels are different. But it looks good in this modified skeleton daytona.
forum.replica-watch.info