Compare ARF 116710LN with the VRF 116710LN

[mega12]

Be careful with installing gen hands on VR movement. According to occb2 this can cause scratches on your dial and you probably need new pinions.

 

[Tobel]

Thanks! I'll be using the VRF case + movement and ARF bracelet. But not sure yet, I bought the parts in an impulse so might as well list them for sale here and build a 5513 haha!

Lol ok well, let's see.

 

[markiemark]

Be careful with installing gen hands on VR movement. According to occb2 this can cause scratches on your dial and you probably need new pinions.

F**** it! Anyone interested in the parts, checkout the sales area on saturday lol! In the meantime I'll contact the boss to renew my supporter status...

 

[Rawbe]

F**** it! Anyone interested in the parts, checkout the sales area on saturday lol! In the meantime I'll contact the boss to renew my supporter status...

RepC Wants your hand set! Let dibs go to him!

 

[stufuse]

There is a set for sale for 750 euro, but I paid a little less. Someone mentioned 350 euro in a list if he would build one. Not sure if he can actually get them for that price, but that would be a really really good price if so...

Yea 350 Is a little hopefull in Europe


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[wNe]

@occb2

So should we go now with the ARF?
Im a Little bit confused now, because everyone said go with the VRF, because better case and better movement, but seems there are problems with the hands.

Might be better to go full ARF then (case, movement) other parts are gen ofc

Maybe it’s possible to get the part number for the 3186 gear?

 

[m5smg2]

occb2 What is it you find better about the VRF case? Aside from not using movement screws, how is it better than the ARF case? Thanks

 

[occb2]

occb2 What is it you find better about the VRF case? Aside from not using movement screws, how is it better than the ARF case? Thanks

They are both good. I just like the fact that the watch is very much interior like a real rolex case. Lots of watches I have built, movement tabs get loose or bend and when you wind them the movement and dial move. I am not saying that the ARF is a bad case. In fact I my plan on building another watch with the super lum dial. I just need hands. I need to make the Sh3186 a little stronger. The hour spring is a little weak. Also the movement is dirty. Needs a cleaning. The VRF is not as dirty but dry as heck. The SH it seems that the makers used the same oil for everything. So it needs a good cleaning.

 

[mari115]

They are both good. I just like the fact that the watch is very much interior like a real rolex case. Lots of watches I have built, movement tabs get loose or bend and when you wind them the movement and dial move. I am not saying that the ARF is a bad case. In fact I my plan on building another watch with the super lum dial. I just need hands. I need to make the Sh3186 a little stronger. The hour spring is a little weak. Also the movement is dirty. Needs a cleaning. The VRF is not as dirty but dry as heck. The SH it seems that the makers used the same oil for everything. So it needs a good cleaning.

i see, thank you.

Do you know if the VR3185 will fit ARF's case using the tabs and vice versa using the screws?

 

[occb2]

@occb2

So should we go now with the ARF?
Im a Little bit confused now, because everyone said go with the VRF, because better case and better movement, but seems there are problems with the hands.

Might be better to go full ARF then (case, movement) other parts are gen ofc

Maybe it’s possible to get the part number for the 3186 gear?

I think the choice is personal.

I live the more closer to rolex. So the VRF case and the VRF dial are amazing. The VRF moment I think used a hour wheel and pinion that is smaller than rolex. I have spoken to a buddy and he is going to measure. I might take the watch I built back apart and just measure. I just need to order the real rolex part. That would explain what happen.

There are goods and bads in both watches. Me, I think the dial of the VRF kicks ass. Hands, not so much. The ARF dial is good but not as close as the VRF. Really VRF nailed the dial. I think they nailed the case. I need to putz around with the movement because in both the ARF and the VRF my date is misaligned. It is a little too low. So I think I need a real date spring.

No I do know I have been getting the VRF and ARF confused when typing. I am sorry. The whole RF thing is killing me. So lets call them by just the first initial. I was doing that with Mike today and it solved so many issues.

First. Both the A and V movement's are good. That is all up to you on which you choose. I have built this watch 2 days ago and keeping amazing time. I used the A movement in this build for 2 reasons. 1) I didnt ever get a chance to test it. I tore the watch apart the day I got it. 2) which dial flush, real hour hands scratched my dial. (No a spacer would not have worked. In fact it would had lifted the dial higher. I think the real dial has a cut out for the movement around the back of the dial and the fakes do not so they fit flush and the real dial sank a little, maybe. Just guessing.)

I personally like the A bracelet. Again 2 reasons. 1)it is marked as a 78200 while the V is marked as a sub 97200. Second I have handled a lot of real ceramic bracelets and the A just feels a lot more Rolex like. Finish is nice also.

Cases. They are both nice. I will be testing the A case. I just wanted to use the V.

Crystal. They both suck. So I opted to use a brand new Rolex CAR GMT crystal. The V crystal ring was too large. Just slid over the gasket. So I opted to use the A. The A got stuck in my chuck and I ended up crushing it. I have a real one on order. So until then I used the V crystal ring and crystal gasket on the real crystal. Sealed like a champ. Water proof.

Bezel. The V is not Rolex spec. It is solid with 3 holes for the bezel spring. Also the insert is glued in. While the A is rolex spec. Looks identical to a Rolex even the gaps in the inside of the bezel. Lastly the real insert presses into the A bezel by compression and no glue is needed. So what I did was use the A bezel assembly. I used a real hydrel ring. Only thing is that I had to minus the spacer. When I tried to press the bezel on the watch it would not stay. The hydrel ring was not making contact with the real crystal. So I removed the metal spacer and it sat flush and works perfectly.

So now the watch is done. It was a test. So I am not 100% happy with it. I have tons of parts which I plan to mess around with to make the perfect one. But now I need a new dial, which I have but it is not Chroma but super lum. I spoke to someone today who has real super lum hands so I will try to get it and build the A case.

My time right now sucks. Between a new job and my mother having massive issues with her health I lack a lot of time to play with watches. I hope this explains a lot. I really need to take the build I did apart so I can compare the cases and I promise I will. I think I will still end up with the V case.

One last thing. Remember in the start of this thread I thought the crystal was thicker on the V? Well it isn't. The V crystal is the same thickness and size of the real rolex crystal. So I think it was the bezel assembly. I think the V is not Rolex spec where the A is. I do have a watch here that is a customers that has a full real bezel assembly and I thought of buying one. I am not going to take his watch apart to measure. I will wait until I get one in hand and then I will see.

 

[occb2]

i see, thank you.

Do you know if the VR3185 will fit ARF's case using the tabs and vice versa using the screws?

Yes. They both fit each others case. For the V to fit the A case you would use the tabs. For the A to fit the V case you will just use the movement screws.

 

[Repwatchlover]

Great thread. Love seeing the ARF v2 getting analyzed, instead of the usual “it’s just the same as the v1”.

 

[m5smg2]

Great thread. Love seeing the ARF v2 getting analyzed, instead of the usual “it’s just the same as the v1”.

Except the AR GMT is a V1. New model. It just launched

 

[Repwatchlover]

m5smg2 how’d they do on the color of the bezel?

 

[m5smg2]

m5smg2 how’d they do on the color of the bezel?

I think very well. It’s black ceramic so pretty standard. The question should be on the bezel engravings?

 

[Rawbe]

Repwatchlover Are you getting this thread mixed up with the 116610LN (Ceramic Submariner)? This is for the GMT MASTER II mate.

 

[Repwatchlover]

Rawbe yup. Total newb

 

[mari115]

Yes. They both fit each others case. For the V to fit the A case you would use the tabs. For the A to fit the V case you will just use the movement screws.

amazing, thank you for your answer, i think i'll do that!

 

[mari115]

I think the choice is personal.

I live the more closer to rolex. So the VRF case and the VRF dial are amazing. The VRF moment I think used a hour wheel and pinion that is smaller than rolex. I have spoken to a buddy and he is going to measure. I might take the watch I built back apart and just measure. I just need to order the real rolex part. That would explain what happen.

There are goods and bads in both watches. Me, I think the dial of the VRF kicks ass. Hands, not so much. The ARF dial is good but not as close as the VRF. Really VRF nailed the dial. I think they nailed the case. I need to putz around with the movement because in both the ARF and the VRF my date is misaligned. It is a little too low. So I think I need a real date spring.

No I do know I have been getting the VRF and ARF confused when typing. I am sorry. The whole RF thing is killing me. So lets call them by just the first initial. I was doing that with Mike today and it solved so many issues.

First. Both the A and V movement's are good. That is all up to you on which you choose. I have built this watch 2 days ago and keeping amazing time. I used the A movement in this build for 2 reasons. 1) I didnt ever get a chance to test it. I tore the watch apart the day I got it. 2) which dial flush, real hour hands scratched my dial. (No a spacer would not have worked. In fact it would had lifted the dial higher. I think the real dial has a cut out for the movement around the back of the dial and the fakes do not so they fit flush and the real dial sank a little, maybe. Just guessing.)

I personally like the A bracelet. Again 2 reasons. 1)it is marked as a 78200 while the V is marked as a sub 97200. Second I have handled a lot of real ceramic bracelets and the A just feels a lot more Rolex like. Finish is nice also.

Cases. They are both nice. I will be testing the A case. I just wanted to use the V.

Crystal. They both suck. So I opted to use a brand new Rolex CAR GMT crystal. The V crystal ring was too large. Just slid over the gasket. So I opted to use the A. The A got stuck in my chuck and I ended up crushing it. I have a real one on order. So until then I used the V crystal ring and crystal gasket on the real crystal. Sealed like a champ. Water proof.

Bezel. The V is not Rolex spec. It is solid with 3 holes for the bezel spring. Also the insert is glued in. While the A is rolex spec. Looks identical to a Rolex even the gaps in the inside of the bezel. Lastly the real insert presses into the A bezel by compression and no glue is needed. So what I did was use the A bezel assembly. I used a real hydrel ring. Only thing is that I had to minus the spacer. When I tried to press the bezel on the watch it would not stay. The hydrel ring was not making contact with the real crystal. So I removed the metal spacer and it sat flush and works perfectly.

So now the watch is done. It was a test. So I am not 100% happy with it. I have tons of parts which I plan to mess around with to make the perfect one. But now I need a new dial, which I have but it is not Chroma but super lum. I spoke to someone today who has real super lum hands so I will try to get it and build the A case.

My time right now sucks. Between a new job and my mother having massive issues with her health I lack a lot of time to play with watches. I hope this explains a lot. I really need to take the build I did apart so I can compare the cases and I promise I will. I think I will still end up with the V case.

One last thing. Remember in the start of this thread I thought the crystal was thicker on the V? Well it isn't. The V crystal is the same thickness and size of the real rolex crystal. So I think it was the bezel assembly. I think the V is not Rolex spec where the A is. I do have a watch here that is a customers that has a full real bezel assembly and I thought of buying one. I am not going to take his watch apart to measure. I will wait until I get one in hand and then I will see.

i see, very interesting.

I hope your mother feels better soon.

 

[mega12]

Thanks Rob for updating and all the best for your mother

I think I might go with.... I don’t know honestly