You just have to put a VR/NOOB watch next to an ARF in daylight. noob/ VR is grainier cream colour lume. ARF flatter, smooth and brilliant white.
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Compare ARF 116710LN with the VRF 116710LN
- Thread starter occb2
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You just have to put a VR/NOOB watch next to an ARF in daylight. noob/ VR is grainier cream colour lume. ARF flatter, smooth and brilliant white.
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Mh ok thanks guys. I do have one of those Hulk BP dials. It took me now 3 months to get this white lume dots to more gen like cream color dots matching with my gen hands. It’s still not perfect because after 2 relumes it still looks ugly in daylight. Now I will replace indexes completely by VRF ones. but those BP Hulk dials were known for its white dots. So basically I know what you are talking about but thought, that the difference is not that visible on regular ARF and VRF comparisons. Yes, maybe slightly different, but hopefully not that obvious and noticeable. However, good to know and thanks.
Im going full franken, so only case and movement matters to me. What would be the best choice, ARF or VR?
ARF bracelet is sold separately anyways, so does not influence the options...
ARF bracelet is sold separately anyways, so does not influence the options...
wNe
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Get them Next to each other IRL the ARF is significantly whiter, I think you’ll have to relume the parts to make them Match.
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The answer is here in the thread
I have been wearing the VR all week. I tore apart the ARF. Both movements are running amazing. The ARF has a dirty movement so it will need service. The VR is dry as heck. So I will be servicing it too. Never the less I like the VR case. I like the ARF band. Bezel ARF has it. Dial VR has it. I would get a real crystal no matter what. They are both bad. The VR has a better date wheel although I would throw a real date wheel in it also. I have not taken apart the VR. Mine came with the bezel not properly aligned to 12/24 hours. Only thing wrong with it. I do think it is a little thicker but I believe it is the crystal. I will know more when I strip the VR down. Mike (Misikped) did a great tear down of the VR in his review.
mari115
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I have built quite a few 2836 based cased GMT's using 3186 or modified 3135 yuki's in it and have never had stem issues. we are talking fractions of a millimetre in the difference and the Mag isnt off at all. again we are talking fractions of a mil in the difference, if one can tell the difference in mag vs the variances of a gen mag then they have better eyes than most humans on the planet.
- 12/3/18
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Interesting and good to know. Maybe you could share how you've been successful with it. Fitting a gen 3186 with flush dial into a Noob 2836 case has created too much upward stem pressure for some folks. Have any pics?
wNe
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There is no way that that movement is stable. This is what I am talking about. Look at the gap of the movement around the case. Also where is the stem? In that position you will be able to take a direct top shot and see what we are talking about with the pressure on the stem.
What I did and a few others is fill in those gaps between the case and movements with shaved down crystal gaskets. So the movement would be stable.
Dan showed me a pic of a beauty that he built. That might be it actually don't remember. He was having the same stem issues that we were all having.
Never the less. That is a thing of the past. We now have 2 cases that fit a real or fake 3185/86 so the point is not worth discussing anymore. Hope TD's sell cases. For all who have made their noob ones. Or if the noob ones are running and running well that is great. Also I heard in this thread of a movement ring that someone machined. I would love to see it. Haven't seen one yet. I'm sure it isn't so hard but Still haven't seen one.
Or is that brass color a ring? Is that the rear of the dial?
- 10/6/14
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Ok. So I spent a few hours taking apart the VRF and trying to combine the two to make what I think is a better 116710LN. I ran into a lot of issues.
So I like the VRF case. I stripped it apart down to the case only. The crystal is the same size as a real CAR. The gasket is NUTS. Way to thick.
Ok so here is what I learned. The ARF bezel is Rolex spec. The VRF is not The ARF is insert is pressed in and the VRF is glued. The VRF crystal ring sucks for a real crystal. ARF fit with a real gasket. I used the VRF case also used the VRF SH3186. There are issues with it. But want to run it to see how it behaves. Been running the VRF for a week.
A real date wheel fits both movements fine. One thing I did find it the hands press badly on the VRF. The hour hand made contact with my dial and scratched it. I will live. On the SH fit perfectly.
So right now I used the following.
VRF 126710 case. LOL.
ARF 97200 bracelet.
ARF SH3186 movement with real date wheel.
Real CAR crystal
Real Hour and min and GMT hand. Bent the seconds hand so used the ARF seconds hand
Used the ARF bezel and new hydrel ring. I snapped in a real 116710LN insert. I did have to remove the metal spacer so the bezel fit perfectly.
I used a real 704 crown. Works a lot better than the VRF one that takes about 5 turns to lock the crown. Now its about 3 turns.
I pressure checked and passed with flying colors.
I need to get a new dial and hands. The scratches will tick me off never the less it will be fine for now.
More eye candy.
So I like the VRF case. I stripped it apart down to the case only. The crystal is the same size as a real CAR. The gasket is NUTS. Way to thick.
Ok so here is what I learned. The ARF bezel is Rolex spec. The VRF is not The ARF is insert is pressed in and the VRF is glued. The VRF crystal ring sucks for a real crystal. ARF fit with a real gasket. I used the VRF case also used the VRF SH3186. There are issues with it. But want to run it to see how it behaves. Been running the VRF for a week.
A real date wheel fits both movements fine. One thing I did find it the hands press badly on the VRF. The hour hand made contact with my dial and scratched it. I will live. On the SH fit perfectly.
So right now I used the following.
VRF 126710 case. LOL.
ARF 97200 bracelet.
ARF SH3186 movement with real date wheel.
Real CAR crystal
Real Hour and min and GMT hand. Bent the seconds hand so used the ARF seconds hand
Used the ARF bezel and new hydrel ring. I snapped in a real 116710LN insert. I did have to remove the metal spacer so the bezel fit perfectly.
I used a real 704 crown. Works a lot better than the VRF one that takes about 5 turns to lock the crown. Now its about 3 turns.
I pressure checked and passed with flying colors.
I need to get a new dial and hands. The scratches will tick me off never the less it will be fine for now.
More eye candy.
- 10/6/14
- 14,018
- 4,053
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Finished watch.
Here is the freaking crappy crystal ring. Way to small!
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