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Clean 126500 Daytona review

AG91

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instead I know that Steve from TheOne Watch had some final links specifically for these adaptations, go to his website and then contact him via WhatsApp. the final connections were gmf brand if I remember correctly...
 

Reaps

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instead I know that Steve from TheOne Watch had some final links specifically for these adaptations, go to his website and then contact him via WhatsApp. the final connections were gmf brand if I remember correctly...
Bud we're talking about 126500 Daytona not 116500... 116500 yes but not 126500...
 
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m5smg2

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The 519 end links from gold model will not fit the 500 steel case as the link tips are fitted under the bezel and also secured by spring bars.

There is the smarty end links option that gen owners use, but I don’t think anyone case tried them yet on the 12 steel case, but they do have a return policy I believe..
 
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aHero

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The 519 end links from gold model will not fit the 500 steel case as the link tips are fitted under the bezel and also secured by spring bars.

There is the smarty end links option that gen owners use, but I don’t think anyone case tried them yet on the 12 steel case, but they do have a return policy I believe..
The smarty endinks are absolute shit. The QM or GM (not sure what the first letter is lol) are the best and only $45.

Not sure if they’ll fit the 12 Daytonas though but I bet they would.
 

aHero

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I've read hundred of post , but I'm still confused on it. Somebody says 7750 is a shit , but cheap, while 4130 isn't bad but I don 't think it worth the price
You're asking this question in the Clean 126500 thread, which uses a 4131.

It is almost universally agreed that 7750 is shit. The slim 7750 is...okay. The SA/DD4130 is king for the 11 series, but again...this is a thread for the Clean 12 Daytona...

I've literally never read a post from someone saying the 4130 isn't worth it. At least not from a reputable member lol.
 

Frankierider

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You're asking this question in the Clean 126500 thread, which uses a 4131.

It is almost universally agreed that 7750 is shit. The slim 7750 is...okay. The SA/DD4130 is king for the 11 series, but again...this is a thread for the Clean 12 Daytona...

I've literally never read a post from someone saying the 4130 isn't worth it. At least not from a reputable member lol.
thanks so much buddy. I will take care of your suggestions and I'm planning to study and to modify it soon ... when $ comes into !!
 

Therion666

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4130 and 4131 are the best movements I've ever experienced in a replica watch. And there were hundreds. The 7750 doesn't come even close in any aspect..

4130s have amazing accuracy, insane power reserve and are normally very silent or can be silenced. Even thinking about that fat ass 7750 Daytona in 2024 is beyond my wildest imagination.
 

cheeseroyale

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4130 and 4131 are the best movements I've ever experienced in a replica watch. And there were hundreds. The 7750 doesn't come even close in any aspect..

4130s have amazing accuracy, insane power reserve and are normally very silent or can be silenced. Even thinking about that fat ass 7750 Daytona in 2024 is beyond my wildest imagination.
I think quality vs value I would take the 4130 over the 4131. I have the 4131 and kinda wish i had the 4130. First few days, it was extremely accurate, like 0 to +3 sec/day. However, a week later it is now -8 to -15 sec/day unless flip the watch face down in which it will get -7 to -3. Power reserve appears great. I have tried wearing it more often to get it winding, even try manually winding it, but I can never get it back to the (+) range. I guess it already needs service?

I also read that the 4130 rotor is more quiet than the 4131.
 

aHero

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I think quality vs value I would take the 4130 over the 4131. I have the 4131 and kinda wish i had the 4130. First few days, it was extremely accurate, like 0 to +3 sec/day. However, a week later it is now -8 to -15 sec/day unless flip the watch face down in which it will get -7 to -3. Power reserve appears great. I have tried wearing it more often to get it winding, even try manually winding it, but I can never get it back to the (+) range. I guess it already needs service?

I also read that the 4130 rotor is more quiet than the 4131.
When I read service I think a full service of the movement. I think you just need to regulate it.
 
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cheeseroyale

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When I read service I think a full service of the movement. I think you just need to regulate it.
Sorry, yea, that's what I mean. Wish i knew a place i can take them to in Houston. I know people for my gens, but I know them too well that i don't want them to know I have reps!
 
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Reaps

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I think quality vs value I would take the 4130 over the 4131. I have the 4131 and kinda wish i had the 4130. First few days, it was extremely accurate, like 0 to +3 sec/day. However, a week later it is now -8 to -15 sec/day unless flip the watch face down in which it will get -7 to -3. Power reserve appears great. I have tried wearing it more often to get it winding, even try manually winding it, but I can never get it back to the (+) range. I guess it already needs service?

I also read that the 4130 rotor is more quiet than the 4131.
Looking for COSC accuracy across 6 positions on a replica will always disappoint you it's a matter of luck
 

AG91

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7/3/22
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guys, sorry for my question... at the presentation of the new clean 126500 in the photos the numbers on the bezel seem too engraved and hollowed out, now that many users have received them and uploaded photos to the forum I no longer noticed this difference and I haven't heard from anyone since complain about it... makes me think clean immediately updated the bezel? Could someone elaborate on this? I would like to ask @CTime and @Nikz19 who has a gen bezel to compare it with if possible. thank you very much for the attention
 

chrisat

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The engraving is not very deep, so what you see as a difference in this magnified photos is actually just a fraction of a fraction of a millimeter. And if you compare different photos, they would have been taken with different cameras, mostly with smartphones, and such fine detail is handled differently by sensor types and jpeg engines.

I think you haven't seen any complaints, because you wouldn't see it with the naked eye. Maybe you would recognise the slightest difference if you put gen and rep next to each other and looked closely. But isolated, the rep bezel is absolutely fine.
 
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chrisat

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Just wanted to add, that also the focal length of the lens plays a role. Close up with what is called a 1x camera on smartphones, and which is actually sort of wide angle, exaggerates these fine differences, while using a zoom, which helps to reduce reflections in real life conditions, makes such fine differences less obvious. It's the same phenomena that makes watches appear overly large compared to the wrist on wrist shots that were taken with small focal lengths.
 
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Karbon74

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I think quality vs value I would take the 4130 over the 4131. I have the 4131 and kinda wish i had the 4130. First few days, it was extremely accurate, like 0 to +3 sec/day. However, a week later it is now -8 to -15 sec/day unless flip the watch face down in which it will get -7 to -3. Power reserve appears great. I have tried wearing it more often to get it winding, even try manually winding it, but I can never get it back to the (+) range. I guess it already needs service?

I also read that the 4130 rotor is more quiet than the 4131.

Set it directly at +10 to +15
It will drift towards zero and stay there
 

Space Man

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To be honest, I don't care about Gen like crystal.. When I compare my new clean 126500 panda and my BTF panda, the clarity difference so obvious.. I prefer the btf look of crystal even it's not closed to gen
I agree with you, I’m after clarity in a crystal.

I am looking forward to your report on your 126500 with Deep Crystal vs. stock Clean crystal.

It will be interesting to see the difference side by side, and read your thoughts on the difference / your preference.
 
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