Clean 126500 Daytona review

[SD92]

Disgusted at a TD being honest saying they cant get what they want i swear rep buyers are some of the most dramatic people ever

Sorry it's due to a bad translation as english is not my native language, in my own language this term is less dramatic What I meant is more in a sens of "discouraged". Anyways I bought plenty of Reps, from many TDs here without any issue
and I'm one of those people who know what they're buying and don't go whining publicly as soon as a problem appears (abour a rep) on the horizon.
Thank you for your understanding and sympathy.

 

[Jcap66]

I’m looking into buying a clean 126500 panda and I’ve been looking at other people’s qc pictures. Does the clean 126500 have a known common issue of a not centred dial?
Most of the watches I see in the latest qc pictures look like the pictures below, two different watches. The chronograph hand aren’t centred at 12 because the dial are shifted I guess?
Is this a common issue or am I just seeing things that doesn’t exist?

 

[SRBJKU]

I’m looking into buying a clean 126500 panda and I’ve been looking at other people’s qc pictures. Does the clean 126500 have a known common issue of a not centred dial?
Most of the watches I see in the latest qc pictures look like the pictures below, two different watches. The chronograph hand aren’t centred at 12 because the dial are shifted I guess?
Is this a common issue or am I just seeing things that doesn’t exist?

Look at some pictures of gen Daytona's. You will see that is how they are configured as well. The two upper dials are above the center line of the 3 o'clock, 9 o'clock and hour/ minute hands.

 

[Reaps]

I’m looking into buying a clean 126500 panda and I’ve been looking at other people’s qc pictures. Does the clean 126500 have a known common issue of a not centred dial?
Most of the watches I see in the latest qc pictures look like the pictures below, two different watches. The chronograph hand aren’t centred at 12 because the dial are shifted I guess?
Is this a common issue or am I just seeing things that doesn’t exist?

All mechanical chronographs will have some kind of slack and reset drift. They're not perfect after all. Even gens costing 10x the rep face issue. Both jmages are well within normal for chronograph.

 

[Jcap66]

Look at some pictures of gen Daytona's. You will see that is how they are configured as well. The two upper dials are above the center line of the 3 o'clock, 9 o'clock and hour/ minute hands.

All mechanical chronographs will have some kind of slack and reset drift. They're not perfect after all. Even gens costing 10x the rep face issue. Both jmages are well within normal for chronograph.

Ok that’s good to know that most of them look like this I just haven’t noticed it before but it’s also zoomed in x100…

 

[SmileySays]

Brother great review… hands down
I love the panda a lot also and have take it off the wrist just for testing the power reserve and once stoped i couldnt wait second longer to put it back on my wrist lol… you couldve just ad that the power reserve is impressive , mine strong 73 hours after a 5 days of wearing it

Hi! What factory is this?
Great looking watch!

 

[SmileySays]

Received my 126500 panda today, this thing is unbelievable. Opted to have the crystal swapped with deep, despite the fact that it may not have been necessary.

Overall I’m so impressed with the build quality, definitely the best OOTB rep I’ve had. Here’s some photos comparing to the my 116500 CF V3 with stock crystal

Hi!
Which one would you recommend to buy between them? I’m so close to buy one but not know which yet.. should I go for the “safer” more tested movement or with the new, more elegant look? Because it’s no size difference right? Kind regards!

 

[Pureblood]

Forgive me if I am in the wrong thread but I am going through QC right now on a new Clean 126500 black and have a couple questions maybe some of you eagle eye’d experts can help me with? I can’t tell if the SEL is off on this watch or if it’s just the plastic? Also a little concerned about the timegrapher results as it started at +-0seconds and .2ms BE but then jumped to -7 and .3ms BE? I have seen some posts elsewhere of guys receiving this model from clean dead on arrival over the past weeks so I am just a bit nervous. @Reaps after reading this whole thread I have seen you really know your stuff with these watches could I please have your expert opinion on this ? This appears to be the latest and most recent example from CF. Thank you guys so much in advance.

 

[jakehd]

Forgive me if I am in the wrong thread but I am going through QC right now on a new Clean 126500 black and have a couple questions maybe some of you eagle eye’d experts can help me with? I can’t tell if the SEL is off on this watch or if it’s just the plastic? Also a little concerned about the timegrapher results as it started at +-0seconds and .2ms BE but then jumped to -7 and .3ms BE? I have seen some posts elsewhere of guys receiving this model from clean dead on arrival over the past weeks so I am just a bit nervous. @Reaps after reading this whole thread I have seen you really know your stuff with these watches could I please have your expert opinion on this ? This appears to be the latest and most recent example from CF. Thank you guys so much in advance.

Sel look fine. Regarding your timegraph results, it is mainly to show that it's running and the amplitude is normal. The watch hasn't been wound long enough and sitting in that position long enough time to give it an accurate representation of how it will run. Even if it shows 0s/d doesn't translate to how it will wear in different positions throughout the day.

 

[Pureblood]

Sel look fine. Regarding your timegraph results, it is mainly to show that it's running and the amplitude is normal. The watch hasn't been wound long enough and sitting in that position long enough time to give it an accurate representation of how it will run. Even if it shows 0s/d doesn't translate to how it will wear in different positions throughout the day.

Thank you, I really appreciate it. I think the dial and bezel and everything else look good and straight. The big chrono hand was 1 or 2 seconds to the left in many other pictures I saw and I’m happy this is properly aligned with no drift in the sundial hands. I read prior in this thread that clean upgraded their crystal but I can’t tell in this lighting. I’m just going to run with it.

I did the same thing when I bought my first and only rep, a VSF 114060, massively zoomed in dissecting it pixel by pixel, scouring the internet (mainly here) late into the early morning only to find when I actually put the watch on for the very first time it’s actually pretty small. The supposed flaws I was sweating weren’t perceptible to the naked eye, if they even existed to begin with lol! Hopefully that’s the case with the timegrapher. I’m sure it will be fine thanks again buddy.

 

[Reaps]

Thank you, I really appreciate it. I think the dial and bezel and everything else look good and straight. The big chrono hand was 1 or 2 seconds to the left in many other pictures I saw and I’m happy this is properly aligned with no drift in the sundial hands. I read prior in this thread that clean upgraded their crystal but I can’t tell in this lighting. I’m just going to run with it.

I did the same thing when I bought my first and only rep, a VSF 114060, massively zoomed in dissecting it pixel by pixel, scouring the internet (mainly here) late into the early morning only to find when I actually put the watch on for the very first time it’s actually pretty small. The supposed flaws I was sweating weren’t perceptible to the naked eye, if they even existed to begin with lol! Hopefully that’s the case with the timegrapher. I’m sure it will be fine thanks again buddy.

You'll be fine it's good. Timegrapher is fine too I never pay attention too much to the seconds. Amplitude more important.

I just recieved a watch that was 0s/day on timegrapher and after shipped to me it was 20s/day due to the rough nature of international shipping.

 

[Pureblood]

You'll be fine it's good. Timegrapher is fine too I never pay attention too much to the seconds. Amplitude more important.

I just recieved a watch that was 0s/day on timegrapher and after shipped to me it was 20s/day due to the rough nature of international shipping.

Thanks Reaps! Your posts were extremely informative and I am now able to tell the difference between SH4131 and DD4131 thanks to you!

Yes my Sub was at +-0 seconds a day at QC and now it runs about 15-20 seconds fast a day. I even bought a demagnetizater but no dice. I don’t mind it so much though because now I’m always slightly early and I just reset the time once a week or so when it gets too far off. That is my daily driver. The Daytona will just be for when I’m off and having fun, besides I don’t want to wear something so flashy at work.

The timegrapher pics concerned me the most because of this post I saw on Reddit. Sounds like such a nightmare! Hopefully it is just a one off freak thing and will not become a normal occurrence.

https://www.reddit.com/r/RepTime/comments/1jl9nri

 

[Reaps]

Thanks Reaps! Your posts were extremely informative and I am now able to tell the difference between SH4131 and DD4131 thanks to you!

Yes my Sub was at +-0 seconds a day at QC and now it runs about 15-20 seconds fast a day. I even bought a demagnetizater but no dice. I don’t mind it so much though because now I’m always slightly early and I just reset the time once a week or so when it gets too far off. That is my daily driver. The Daytona will just be for when I’m off and having fun, besides I don’t want to wear something so flashy at work.

The timegrapher pics concerned me the most because of this post I saw on Reddit. Sounds like such a nightmare! Hopefully it is just a one off freak thing and will not become a normal occurrence.

https://www.reddit.com/r/RepTime/comments/1jl9nri

The 4131s have been mostly reliable but this is just inherent to replica game. Broken watches or lemon movements are part of the things we accept.

Remeber 1 complaint is not indicative of the performance. Hundreds if not thousands of these watches have been sold. The only time people make noise or scary reddit posts is when it breaks. When things run smoothly noone posts about it lol

 

[Pureblood]

The 4131s have been mostly reliable but this is just inherent to replica game. Broken watches or lemon movements are part of the things we accept.

Remeber 1 complaint is not indicative of the performance. Hundreds if not thousands of these watches have been sold. The only time people make noise or scary reddit posts is when it breaks. When things run smoothly noone posts about it lol

Yeah that makes sense. Thanks again I’ll upload some pics in this thread for you guys when I get the new watch

 

[Thewatchwolf]

Just received my updated CF panda with new dial and the DD movement and I am in love. They knocked this one out of the park.

 

[Mark1937]

Just received my updated CF panda with new dial and the DD movement and I am in love. They knocked this one out of the park.

Pics!!!!

 

[Pureblood]

Received my Daytona yesterday and got it all sized up. I’m really surprised by how small and light it feels but I’ve been wearing the 114060 Submariner for the last couple years. It’s always kind of jarring going from enlarged pictures on the internet and close up wrist shots to having it in hand. I really like how it feels on the wrist and I can’t spot anything wrong with it. It’s only been one day but it is keeping perfect time so far, much more accurate than my Submariner.

Only downside so far is the squeaky bracelet but I’ve seen that happen on gen as well and am not concerned about it. I’m thinking about maybe getting a polished SS glidelock from another watch like an Oysterflex and replacing the clasp on the Daytona bracelet. I have definitely been spoiled by the customizable fit of glidelock lol.

I’ll upload some higher quality pictures with a better camera, this is just a quick one I snapped. Thanks again for everyone who contributed to this thread, it has been very helpful!