May i ask what are the differences between TC SD bracelet and this rep bracelet (weight ? ...) ?Is there any review of them ?
I do not know if i buy it or not....
I do not know if i buy it or not....
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BP Seadweller.. Best SD available Period
- Thread starter ebzen02
- Start date
ahh no get confused now Q5 !! :raji:
stay focused and answer me .. after you get confused .. :thumbsup:
" I read in your posts that you had gen sd dial. can i know the difference between gen and TC/BP dial .. I heard genuine is darker than rep dial.
the rep dial is more polished but less dark than gen.
wath do you think..you confirm ? "
Benjii, FYI the geb SD never had an LEC or engraved rehaut. Why are you looking for a less accurate watch?
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yes Set i know gen SD have not engraved rehault. but i thought Rolex put the LEC in all models after 2002 ... or am I wrong? :facepalm:
This is wrong. The SD never had an LEC and it was produced until 2008.
Guys, llike R2D4 and Q5? have been involved with this hobby for a LONG time and have seen lots of different watches. You should always form your own opinion, but if you're looking for an accurate replication, you should seriously take their advice into consideration. If a missing LEC were a "flaw" on this watch, you would have seen some discussion about it earlier in this thread. The consensus is that the BPSD, while not perfect, is the best OTB rep of a Rolex that you can get get today, short of maybe buying a TC (and even that's debatable). To the extent people are modding this watch at all, it's to bring it from 95% accurate to 98-99% accurate. Considering the relatively low price of this watch, it's a terrific value. Anyway, do as you please.
Set you say right. I came into this world few month ago .. I started from null. But you also have to understand that I've read many posts including some dating back and i read many of you have praised the old SSD, right?!
too Q5? (which for me is great expert and he always kind for all my doubts) he also had SSD with Lec .. if you experts speak well about SSD andSSD has LEC at 6, then it's natural that i think the lec corresponds to the real SD.
I could not think the Factory are so foolish to put LEC where it should not ..
these my words just to justify my wrong belief
too Q5? (which for me is great expert and he always kind for all my doubts) he also had SSD with Lec .. if you experts speak well about SSD andSSD has LEC at 6, then it's natural that i think the lec corresponds to the real SD.
I could not think the Factory are so foolish to put LEC where it should not ..
these my words just to justify my wrong belief
Benjii, you're over thinking this one. It's good to read all of the old reviews, but remember they are "old" reviews. This is a rapidly changing industry and many watches that were amazing reps a few years ago are not amazing by current standards. The old SSD was a first rate rep in its day, but it had many flaws that would be unacceptable to avid hobbiests by today's standards. The movements on these BP's are nothing special (actually rather crappy), but for the case, bezel, bezel insert and crystal are right up there with WM9 and TC in quality for much less than the price of those reps.
P.S.
My BPSD is completed and ready to be picked up!
In addition to the DW issue, my WD just told me that it failed to make 5 bars on the waterproofing test. Although it wasn't visible (at least to me), the gasket around the crystal was pinched. While he was at it, he talked me into having the watch refinished. I thought the finish on the watch and case looked great, but he told me has actual rolex polishing wheels that will give a finer satin/brushed grain to the watch. Some of this might be BS, but since he agreed to reset the crystal and refinish the case and bracelet for an extra $50.00, I said what the f--k, go for it! I have lost track on all the little extra's he did, so now I am wondering how much is all this going to end up costing meNote to anyone considering modding, if you think a project is going to cost $____ dollars, you better add an extra 50% at least to your budget or you may find yourself in a bad situation. Once work begins, you will find that parts don't fit the way you thought or something unexpected breaks etc. What I thought was just going to be a simple movement service and swap turned into something all together different.
I'm not alone on this so when everyone starts screaming, not only do I have hands on experience with these movements, there's also several others that do movement work as well that agree with me,,,,
The a2824 is not the movement that is the a2836. Not as dependable. Not as reliable. Not designed as well.
Switch to the a2836-2 at every opportunity, it will serve you better.
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The a2824 is not the movement that is the a2836. Not as dependable. Not as reliable. Not designed as well.
Switch to the a2836-2 at every opportunity, it will serve you better.
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A2836-2
I second this!
There is a lot of difference between these two movement's!!
And the A2836-2 is much more solid built,,,in the DWO assembly,,bridges,,etc!
I second this!
There is a lot of difference between these two movement's!!
And the A2836-2 is much more solid built,,,in the DWO assembly,,bridges,,etc!
Right now there are at least 4 factories making 2824 clones of varying designs, at least two other factories in addition to NN and seagull. One of these factories is making a dirt cheap version, which I believe BP is using and a second unnamed company is making a stellar version that is almost a perfect copy of the sw200-2 (26 jewel with a few different design tweaks)-- this is the one TC is using. The price difference between the good new clone (~$90 wholesale) and dirt cheap one (~$60 wholesale) is considerable from a maker's point of view. At the moment, clone movements are in short supply at the moment, so makers are scrambling to get whatever stock of movements they can. There's a lot of pot luck out there. A my clones die, I am upgrading to Swiss if possible, but it may buy a spare clone from TC just in case.
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Set, I've spent allot of time working on these two movements over the last several weeks,,,,,I don't know who makes this one or that one nor do I know how much they cost,,,,,, this is what I do know.... They're both auto watch movements of similar size as are both a Lexus LS and a Chevrolet Impala both cars of similar size.... lol
What I've been looking at is the design of the two and they function basically the same but because of the smarter design of the 2836-2 it does everything better then the 2824—2 does..... simple things like the way the Date Wheels turn, on the 36 there's actually a bracket that rolls around on the 24hr wheel and snaps or puts the date wheel in it's place, where as on the same wheel the 2824 has a simple tooth that haphazardly drags and drops the DW in place.... And there's no need to buy Swiss as far as I can tell. I've swapped parts from Asian to Swiss and vice versa with absolutely no problems..... so the Asian, at least the ones I've worked on are just as good as the Swiss ,in fact, there's very little differences..... now I'm sure this isn't always the case..... but All of the Asian movements from Sead are fine..... I believe if TC would switch to the 2836-2 he wouldn't be having his troubles of late.....one more point to give you a real good idea of what I'm saying, I would definitely rather have a Asian 2836-2 then two Swiss ETA 2824-2.....unless I wanted them to sell of course.. lol
What I've been looking at is the design of the two and they function basically the same but because of the smarter design of the 2836-2 it does everything better then the 2824—2 does..... simple things like the way the Date Wheels turn, on the 36 there's actually a bracket that rolls around on the 24hr wheel and snaps or puts the date wheel in it's place, where as on the same wheel the 2824 has a simple tooth that haphazardly drags and drops the DW in place.... And there's no need to buy Swiss as far as I can tell. I've swapped parts from Asian to Swiss and vice versa with absolutely no problems..... so the Asian, at least the ones I've worked on are just as good as the Swiss ,in fact, there's very little differences..... now I'm sure this isn't always the case..... but All of the Asian movements from Sead are fine..... I believe if TC would switch to the 2836-2 he wouldn't be having his troubles of late.....one more point to give you a real good idea of what I'm saying, I would definitely rather have a Asian 2836-2 then two Swiss ETA 2824-2.....unless I wanted them to sell of course.. lol
Everything you're saying here makes sense, except for the last sentence (would definitely rather have a Asian 2836-2 then two Swiss ETA 2824-2)! A fresh ETA 2824/Sellita SW200 is hands down a better movement than a clone 2836. I guess what's frustrating is that the price in ETA/Sellita 2824/36 movements is getting out of hand and the clones are hit or miss.
In the near, I hope to see rep makers turn to the Miyota 9XXX series of movements for more of their reps. The 9xxx series is still pretty new to the market, but I think they are as good or better than anything ETA has that is even remotely close to the 9XXX series in price. My friend, who is a watchsmith (not the one I used for my Sea-Dweller build), is also Citizens AD and just got the new Citizen Grand Touring watch in stock. We put it on the timegrapher, and (OTB) it was +/-0 seconds a day (face up and down!!!) and had a 0 beat error. Synching it to a Citizens gps watch, it gained 2 seconds in 48 hours. So, you're talking about a gain of maybe 6 seconds a week?!?!?!? That's remarkable--and much better than the spec sheet indicated (specs for the movement provide for normal operating parameters of +/-20 seconds a day). The specs also indicate that the watch has a 40 hours power reserve. On a full wind, my friend's sample ran for just under 51 hours. Maybe this was a freakishly good example of the movement or Citizens is just being very conservative on its spec sheet. In an case, I would definitely pay a $50-75 premium for a a Miyota 9010 over any clone movement.
Now, back to the topic at hand!!! I picked up my BPSD yesterday and man is it nice!!! I'll skip the commentary and just post some pictures:
