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BP Seadweller.. Best SD available Period

benjji

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thanks Q5.,
do you think BP is better ? the case and dial look the same, nice pearl..
 

set2374

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thanks Q5.,
do you think BP is better ? the case and dial look the same, nice pearl..

First off, our discussion regarding the differences between the noob (SSD) and BPSD is purely academic. Noob hasn't made the SSD for a while now, so the only way to get one is if you happen to find it in a m2m sale (and I haven't seen one come up in a while). If you're buying new, BP is your only option. Second, the current BP version is a fantastic option. It an excellent OTB rep, that you can easily wear and go without any mods and have a great looking watch that 99.999999% of the people would think was the real deal. To be fair and perfectly honest, every "flaw" on this watch is nothing more than a nit pick. This is a genuine super rep bargain by any standard!!!

I had a mechanical issue with my watch, which is the only reason I am upgrading the movement. While it's being upgraded and serviced, I figured I would touch up a few minor details like putting in the correct H4 canon pinion. This is hardly a must, but since the watch is being serviced, it's only going to cost me an extra $30 in parts. The BP dial and hands are just fine. When I was trying to work on the watch myself (3am and not really being careful or smart), I nicked the dial and scruffed the paint near the Sea Dweller print. I decided to go with my A-grade watchsmith who is more expensive than my usual watchsmith, but he's better when it comes to the fine details. Since he is touch up my nick, he is going to go over all of the print so it's uniform. This will also give make the print rise a bit higher off the dial, which is more gen like. I wouldn't bother with this, but for the fact that damaged the dial and this was a much less expensive option ($40), than getting a TC dial, which would need to be shaved (or require that the case be shaved. The BP hands are also fine out of the box, but I bent the seconds hand a smidge, so he is going to refinish all of the hands so they are perfectly straight and without any rough edges (which they have, but isn't very noticeable). I am skipping a relume because the factory lume is already good and I don't see the yellow/green tint in daylight that other's mentioned at all.
In short, if I didn't have issues with the movement that triggered a late night OCD moment, I would have just put on a TC bracelet and called it a day.

As a side note, the watchsmith I am using for this watch worked for Rolex in their NYC service center for more than 10 years and then worked for Wempe for 5 years after that, before going out on his own. He now restores vintage watches. He doesn't work on reps, but I sent him $2,500 in work in July that led to my uncle buying a vintage Heuer Autavia that he had restored for another $4,200, so he sort of owed me one. Despite the fact that our conversation started out with him telling me that reps are all shit and I should just buy another rep if I insist on owning one (he really didn't want to work on my watch), now that the watch is almost done he admitted to me on the phone that it looks beautiful and is one of the best looking rolex copies he's seen (although I doubt he's ever seen anything from phong, wm9, TC etc). :D:
 

Turbo350z

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First off, our discussion regarding the differences between the noob (SSD) and BPSD is purely academic. Noob hasn't made the SSD for a while now, so the only way to get one is if you happen to find it in a m2m sale (and I haven't seen one come up in a while). If you're buying new, BP is your only option. Second, the current BP version is a fantastic option. It an excellent OTB rep, that you can easily wear and go without any mods and have a great looking watch that 99.999999% of the people would think was the real deal. To be fair and perfectly honest, every "flaw" on this watch is nothing more than a nit pick. This is a genuine super rep bargain by any standard!!!

I had a mechanical issue with my watch, which is the only reason I am upgrading the movement. While it's being upgraded and serviced, I figured I would touch up a few minor details like putting in the correct H4 canon pinion. This is hardly a must, but since the watch is being serviced, it's only going to cost me an extra $30 in parts. The BP dial and hands are just fine. When I was trying to work on the watch myself (3am and not really being careful or smart), I nicked the dial and scruffed the paint near the Sea Dweller print. I decided to go with my A-grade watchsmith who is more expensive than my usual watchsmith, but he's better when it comes to the fine details. Since he is touch up my nick, he is going to go over all of the print so it's uniform. This will also give make the print rise a bit higher off the dial, which is more gen like. I wouldn't bother with this, but for the fact that damaged the dial and this was a much less expensive option ($40), than getting a TC dial, which would need to be shaved (or require that the case be shaved. The BP hands are also fine out of the box, but I bent the seconds hand a smidge, so he is going to refinish all of the hands so they are perfectly straight and without any rough edges (which they have, but isn't very noticeable). I am skipping a relume because the factory lume is already good and I don't see the yellow/green tint in daylight that other's mentioned at all.
In short, if I didn't have issues with the movement that triggered a late night OCD moment, I would have just put on a TC bracelet and called it a day.

As a side note, the watchsmith I am using for this watch worked for Rolex in their NYC service center for more than 10 years and then worked for Wempe for 5 years after that, before going out on his own. He now restores vintage watches. He doesn't work on reps, but I sent him $2,500 in work in July that led to my uncle buying a vintage Heuer Autavia that he had restored for another $4,200, so he sort of owed me one. Despite the fact that our conversation started out with him telling me that reps are all shit and I should just buy another rep if I insist on owning one (he really didn't want to work on my watch), now that the watch is almost done he admitted to me on the phone that it looks beautiful and is one of the best looking rolex copies he's seen (although I doubt he's ever seen anything from phong, wm9, TC etc). :D:

Sounds like your going to have one hell of a watch when it's all done. Can't wait to see pics!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 2
 

benjji

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Thanks Set,
if I understand you correctly, it isnot a problem the flat print on the dial. however there is method to raise the characters: shaved dial around the writing..
 

set2374

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Argggg....I still don't have the watch back. There is some issue now with the DW not turning over. The WS now how to sort this out. Another week of waiting. I also haven't bought a new watch since the beginning of August, I am going into withdrawal.

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2
 

R2D4

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15/4/07
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Argggg....I still don't have the watch back. There is some issue now with the DW not turning over. The WS now how to sort this out. Another week of waiting. I also haven't bought a new watch since the beginning of August, I am going into withdrawal.

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2

But another BP and have your guru put a thicker spacer in. :)

Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk 4
 

set2374

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Thanks R2. I am not putting any more money into this project, so the guru is going to have to figure this one out. I am paying $180 for the service on the movement, plus parts etc. I would normally pay $100.00 for this work, but I am using a sellita that came out of a Bell & Ross, so its Sellita's top grade and I want it to function to w/n cosc standards. I definitely did not expect to have DW issues.

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2
 

john117

Known Member
25/5/12
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frame of date font is wrong, looks really fake watch!

I would love this super ssd BP with LEC at 6 o'clock. I saw this from TD to another site. it has lec at 6. but I do not know if it is the super SD from BP that we treat in this topic

http://www.kuvarsit.com/index.php?dispatch=products.view&product_id=30101

untitled_zpsa920e77d.png
 

benjji

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yes thank's Jhon117...

i understand.. our BPSD is better! with tc hands - bracelet it's very close to gen! i keep my SD ! only my doubt is the dial.. but i wonder too.. however it is a replica! patience ;)
 

Turbo350z

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yes thank's Jhon117...

i understand.. our BPSD is better! with tc hands - bracelet it's very close to gen! i keep my SD ! only my doubt is the dial.. but i wonder too.. however it is a replica! patience ;)

Benjji,

What factory is yours from? Would like to see some actual pics of the watch. It looks good. Great pearl.


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benjji

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Q5,
excuse again for my disturbance .. I read in older posts that you had gen sd dial. I would like to know if there is much difference between gen and TC/BP dial .. I heard genuine has black color darker than rep dial.
the rep black is more polished but less dark than gen.
wath do you think..you confirm ?

thanks and sorry
 

benjji

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Benjji,

What factory is yours from? Would like to see some actual pics of the watch. It looks good. Great pearl.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 2


Yes Turbo, the pearl is great.. like BPSD. this is by TW factory ( ?)

I found it because I was looking for an SD with lec at 6.. but I read that in Sd the crown is not perfect done , it's very white and very visible ... it can give suspects if it is not done well ..

so I decided better to stick with BP

this is the link

http://www.kuvarsit.com/index.php?dispatch=products.view&product_id=30101
 

benjji

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Yes Turbo, the pearl is great.. like BPSD. this is by TW factory ( ?)

i think the hours markers seem like noob old SD (these have broad ), and the teeth of the bezel are more pointed than BP. insert seems the same as BP..

do you tink ?