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BP Seadweller.. Best SD available Period

replicamania

Active Member
14/10/13
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Hello guys , iam interested to buy bpsd with asian eta. Which is the correct movement? some dealers write in their description for asian 2824-2 and some others for 2836. Iam comfused.What is important to pay attention for a good watch? (Apart from hands color,pearl,date).

Thanks
 

iixxboredumxxii

Active Member
31/5/12
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just to let you guys know what you will be up against if you inadvertently buy a BP SD with a 2824 movement in it and wish to change out the hands.

SteveJones here on this forum recently purchased a BP SD off a TD. Steve kindly sent his watch to me for the addition of TC dial and hands, crown and tube along with a TC bracelet.

A nice easy build you may think!. On receipt of Steve's watch, first thing I noticed was how far back from the dial the DWO was, way too far away, makes the DWO look sunken in the dial and not very gen like at all, in fact a dead giveaway?

I've built the odd one of these and have never seen one this far back, lets get this open and take a look!. Ok back off, movement out, lets get the hands off first. Wow not seen these fitted on a SD before, look at the length of those pinion tubes!!
hands_zpsknj90v7b.jpg

This is getting interesting, lets whip the dial off and see what's going on under here?
dialback_zpsx9dhokhd.jpg

Strange??, extremely thick dial spacer and what are that washer stuck on the back of the dial around the pinion hole?.

Well here's the explanation for all that mechanical tinkering:-
As most of you are aware the BP SD case is dimensionally built to accept the 2836 movement. This puts the stem height 2.25mm from the dial seat to the centre of the stem. On a 2824 this same dimension is 1.8mm, making the difference between the two 0.46mm.

The extra thick dial spacer makes up this dimensional difference by pushing the 2824 stem position towards the back of the case by 0.46mm. This in turn keeps the 2824 stem in alignment with the case pendant tube (crown) The washer glued to the back of the dial in the pinion hole keeps pressure on the hour wheel friction spring to keep the hour wheel in contact with is mating gears.

Great you may think, that's where I want it!,but what about the pinion stack height?. If you look at the first picture of the hands, this has been negotiated by fitting tube extensions to the hands. Still looking good apart from the fact that neither Clark nor TC hands have these fitted, so were stuck with this until we look at different options.

Here's a picture of the movement, dial spacer and dial showing the positional height of the as fitted #2 pinions over the dial
2824H_zpsfpmbkrpc.jpg

And shows clearly why the hand tube extensions are needed.

Ok, let rectify that by fitting the famous #4 pinion set you may think?, well unfortunately not!. #4 pinion set would increase the length of the hour wheel by 0.5m which may well be enough to allow for correct hand stack height, which in turn would allow us to use optional hands such as Tc's or Carks. However we still have the sunken DWO problem as clearly shown in this photograph
before you ask, this dial I use for DWO alignment and is not the one being fitted!!.
dwogap_zpswuqdzktt.jpg


Ok that said, how can we get the DWO up to the back of the dial with little gap. Well we can use a 2836 date wheel instead of the stock 2824 date wheel. This would put us approximately 0.2mm further towards the dial and close the gap down. IMO not close enough but we could also add a couple of layers of double sided tape or even a custom metal DWO spacer 0.35mm thick.

The obvious answer is to get the BP SD with a 2836 movement in it and save all the messing should we want to upgrade the hands, heres how a 2836 stack height looks
2836Hg_zpsdop3zvic.jpg

Whichever way you look at this its still a lot of cost and work to get this to accept alternative hands, I suggest its far cheaper to ensure you get a 2836 movement in you BP SD.

Hope this helps some of you when you come to purchase!



I have came across this myself with the tubed hands, my option will be to relume the hands themselves but my date is not that sunken in. I've seen this on two watches from BP with the 2824 movement the other being a yachtmaster.

08bef75d262c0148df5381929e027706.jpg


There seems to be variations of the 2824 style movements as well.
 

replicamania

Active Member
14/10/13
311
1
18
Thanks Rudy, Great info. Now I can look at all this and see where I'm at. BP SD and B FF NR soon to be on way, Paid last night. Been talking to Tagfan about moding the Sea Dweller.





Hello my friend again!!! I received qc pics...
Can you post the casback pic that received in your qc pics?

Mine :
IMG_0527_zpsuwucyz7i.jpg


are the smalls coronas correct...?
 

Thrasher

Legendary Member
15/4/14
13,212
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The Beach
This is the best picture I have of the rear end and if the 2824 appears I can just put it in a little zip lock and get a 2836, TC hands and Dial and be done with it, I can spread this project out over a couple months and not even notice the costs. I am a bit pissed that my wifes ancient Egyptian Dell XPS laptop has gone south so I may have to buy her a new one but again she only uses it for web browsing, word documents, email etc so I don't need to buy something from Alienware!

 

KBH

Mythical Poster
1/11/07
7,168
43
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are the smalls coronas correct...?

Here's my theory on that:

1. All the BPSD casebacks are the same, so what difference would it make. You can't change it.
2. In 3 months of wearing it all the black paint will be gone. And you'll hardly be able to see it.
3. Who's going to be looking at your case back?

And, most importantly:
4. If you don't know what correct is, does it really matter? Surely nobody else that you know now or will ever know in the future, will know any different.
 

replicamania

Active Member
14/10/13
311
1
18
Here's my theory on that:

1. All the BPSD casebacks are the same, so what difference would it make. You can't change it.
2. In 3 months of wearing it all the black paint will be gone. And you'll hardly be able to see it.
3. Who's going to be looking at your case back?

And, most importantly:
4. If you don't know what correct is, does it really matter? Surely nobody else that you know now or will ever know in the future, will know any different.

thanks my friend!!!:tongue::drinks_cheers:
 

replicamania

Active Member
14/10/13
311
1
18
Hello guys. One more question.
I read ado213 post about hands difference between A2824 and A2836.
My question... Is A2824 movement in bpsd case reliable as A2836?
Thanks
 

Thrasher

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I would say yes on reliability but if it causes some weird date window offset its toast, That being said I was told that most BP SDs are coming with the 2836. I do think I saw it advertised at intime with a 2824... Will see in a couple days mine should be here.

 

replicamania

Active Member
14/10/13
311
1
18
ok my friend Thrasher,so a2824 is reliable but the date depth is not gen like!!! Thankssssssss :callme::thumbup:
 

Thrasher

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replicamania

Active Member
14/10/13
311
1
18
Ok Thrasher thanks for your info!!!! :byebye::byebye: in any case your bpsd that you order from Sead you will receive it with a2836!!! Have a nice afternoon.
 

iixxboredumxxii

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31/5/12
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yodog

Yo
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Here is mine, freshly ordered by watchstation from BP.

Few things: It's got the greenish hands. This is the 2813 version but beats at 28800. Clasp is kinda wonky and clangs around... not sure if this is the improved clasp, bracelet. No matter to me, throwing it on a nato asap. Date wheel on mine is IMO perfectly centered.

Is the TC bracelet smooth? Improvement over stock BP?

g9K8Gfh.jpg

VST9cRn.jpg
 

Thrasher

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That looks pretty darn good to me considering it was under $200. Actually it looks good regardless of price.

the font on the insert looks kinda big?????
 

yodog

Yo
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Yeah the font looks a bit thick. Also - let's just say it was a LOT cheaper than $200. Guess I'll be buying a gen insert for this later on. This is a fun watch and dealer tested to 10ATM so I'm just going to beat it to death before swapping mods in!
 

Thrasher

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d4m.test

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My BP Seadweller bracelet on the right, like it as much as the TC one, only difference I see when inspecting them is that on TC the link connection is more professional; swapped the TC over to try out but than swapped it back to the original BP bracelet after wearing some time on a NATO. Crown looks smoother edged but could be the picture.
DSC_9717.jpg