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BP Seadweller.. Best SD available Period

Rudy40

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Exactly what I was getting at in an earlier post. Even the hands were good on the BP hands I got.

I agree the last SWISS version I bought from Sead ... Had great Lume and the dial and hands match nicely .. The text on the dial was clear and crisp! The biggest problem I have had with the stock dials was crooked marker either at six or nine! Not all of them but a few of them!
Either way the stock dial can be used with confidence! Like stated before the build I got now isn't necessary! But personal preference! It makes me happy![emoji1]


Sent from my Rolex thinking brain!
 

Thrasher

Legendary Member
15/4/14
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I bought a swiss BP EXP 2 from Lucy once, she told me it was cheap because the movement was old rebuilt swiss, I think I wasted so much money on that watch then finally had VAC put a new swiss movement in. I will only buy Asian movements from China then if it takes a crap I can get any number of people to put a new ETA in for me.
 

Thrasher

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Damn I was looking at Genuines on the Bay and it is amazing the work and lack of work people including dealers put into photography. Some have full on great pictures the enlarge and cover every dimension of the watch, then others give you one Shitty picture and expect you to pony up $5500 when the next watch down or up the list is presented in the most professional and detailed manner.
 

ae86x420

Active Member
17/1/11
301
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18
The BPSD should still have a hibeat 2813 at 28800 not 21600 correct? My qc shows 21600 and just didn't appear to be an actual BPSD so I rejected it. 2nd time this has happened to me with a bpsd.
 

Thrasher

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I have been very specific that I want A2836 or A2824. If I get a crap movement I know Sead did his best and I will just have a new eta put in
 

ae86x420

Active Member
17/1/11
301
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I had a bpsd with 2813 hibeat from sead in the past and it was perfect. Recently I ordered 1 from another td and it turned out to not be a bpsd. Now this 2nd one I tried again has the same issues. I don't know if they're trying to send me some other sd or if the bpsd has gone down hill. Anyone know if the 2813 hibeat no longer exists or am I not even getting a bpsd?
 

Pierre Sec

Getting To Know The Place
29/10/12
66
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Here is my BP. With tc dial and hands. The issue i have, it that the dial seems tilted.

6 and 9 markers look good
12 and date window are off centre.

Any suggestions?
Bend the dial feet near the dw?
Remove that feet and stick the dial to the movement?

Thanks guys!
81d4ef0f5d5fcf874280a0651c555a30.jpg
 

Pierre Sec

Getting To Know The Place
29/10/12
66
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Thanks!

That made me conclude the dial is tilted to the left. Together with the date that seems correct, but the window a bit too high
 

Ephry73

I'm Pretty Popular
10/6/11
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I miss mine dearly. Wish I could get another one for the summer. AP diver is nice, but just not a 16600.
 

Thrasher

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I think Sead has finally found one that meets his standards...Jeeeez the guy is picky, I don't think I will ever use another dealer!!!!
 
D

d4m.test

Guest
I think Sead has finally found one that meets his standards...Jeeeez the guy is picky, I don't think I will ever use another dealer!!!!

+1, he does a great job and the few days it may take don´t matter - the result counts:)
 

ado213

Renowned Member
27/4/12
714
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UK
just to let you guys know what you will be up against if you inadvertently buy a BP SD with a 2824 movement in it and wish to change out the hands.

SteveJones here on this forum recently purchased a BP SD off a TD. Steve kindly sent his watch to me for the addition of TC dial and hands, crown and tube along with a TC bracelet.

A nice easy build you may think!. On receipt of Steve's watch, first thing I noticed was how far back from the dial the DWO was, way too far away, makes the DWO look sunken in the dial and not very gen like at all, in fact a dead giveaway?

I've built the odd one of these and have never seen one this far back, lets get this open and take a look!. Ok back off, movement out, lets get the hands off first. Wow not seen these fitted on a SD before, look at the length of those pinion tubes!!
hands_zpsknj90v7b.jpg

This is getting interesting, lets whip the dial off and see what's going on under here?
dialback_zpsx9dhokhd.jpg

Strange??, extremely thick dial spacer and what are that washer stuck on the back of the dial around the pinion hole?.

Well here's the explanation for all that mechanical tinkering:-
As most of you are aware the BP SD case is dimensionally built to accept the 2836 movement. This puts the stem height 2.25mm from the dial seat to the centre of the stem. On a 2824 this same dimension is 1.8mm, making the difference between the two 0.46mm.

The extra thick dial spacer makes up this dimensional difference by pushing the 2824 stem position towards the back of the case by 0.46mm. This in turn keeps the 2824 stem in alignment with the case pendant tube (crown) The washer glued to the back of the dial in the pinion hole keeps pressure on the hour wheel friction spring to keep the hour wheel in contact with is mating gears.

Great you may think, that's where I want it!,but what about the pinion stack height?. If you look at the first picture of the hands, this has been negotiated by fitting tube extensions to the hands. Still looking good apart from the fact that neither Clark nor TC hands have these fitted, so were stuck with this until we look at different options.

Here's a picture of the movement, dial spacer and dial showing the positional height of the as fitted #2 pinions over the dial
2824H_zpsfpmbkrpc.jpg

And shows clearly why the hand tube extensions are needed.

Ok, let rectify that by fitting the famous #4 pinion set you may think?, well unfortunately not!. #4 pinion set would increase the length of the hour wheel by 0.5m which may well be enough to allow for correct hand stack height, which in turn would allow us to use optional hands such as Tc's or Carks. However we still have the sunken DWO problem as clearly shown in this photograph
before you ask, this dial I use for DWO alignment and is not the one being fitted!!.
dwogap_zpswuqdzktt.jpg


Ok that said, how can we get the DWO up to the back of the dial with little gap. Well we can use a 2836 date wheel instead of the stock 2824 date wheel. This would put us approximately 0.2mm further towards the dial and close the gap down. IMO not close enough but we could also add a couple of layers of double sided tape or even a custom metal DWO spacer 0.35mm thick.

The obvious answer is to get the BP SD with a 2836 movement in it and save all the messing should we want to upgrade the hands, heres how a 2836 stack height looks
2836Hg_zpsdop3zvic.jpg

Whichever way you look at this its still a lot of cost and work to get this to accept alternative hands, I suggest its far cheaper to ensure you get a 2836 movement in you BP SD.

Hope this helps some of you when you come to purchase!
 

Thrasher

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Good God well I'm going to cross my fingers and hope for a A2836, I have driven Sead mad with questions about this watch and my simple solution would be genuine ETA 2836. I think the guy is so busy he only talks to me once a day.... Yes that's how good he is while you all wait a week to hear from your TD mine keeps in touch.

rep points to the above for a great piece of info A++++
 

Rudy40

Banned member, the goat does not approve
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I have had several PMs asking about lug holes and the years the T SWISS dial transition to SWISS made ... So I'll post a little post here for reference!....Like most watches of the period, Rolex used tritium paint for their dial-markings and hands. Eventually they made the move to [Super-]LumiNova - just as all other companies did - to avoid the potential dangers inherit to radioactive materials like Radium and its successor Tritium. The 16600 was one of the models that went through the change. Up to roughly 1997~98, they had tritium dials, marked by the industry-standard SWISS-T < 25 just below the 6 o'clock marker. In 1998, Rolex made the transition to [Super-]LumiNova by changing the dial lettering from SWISS-T<25 to SWISS. Not long after (late '99 or early 2000) they changed the label to Swiss Made for reasons beyond my knowledge. Other companies use L Swiss L or even L Swiss made L but all these variations refer to modern [Super-]LumiNova-painted dials/hands (and of course the fact that the watches are manufactured in Switzerland). After reviewing the various Sea Dwellers available, I decided on a [Super-]LumiNova dial and lug-holes (the SD "loosing" its lug-holes with the F-serial 2004 model).


Sent from my Rolex thinking brain!
 

Thrasher

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Thanks Rudy, Great info. Now I can look at all this and see where I'm at. BP SD and B FF NR soon to be on way, Paid last night. Been talking to Tagfan about moding the Sea Dweller.