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BP Released whole line of DG3804 CHS GMTs - cheap!

KJ2020

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Guys who have gotten these already please take a look at this video. The jumping hour hand is not going to the hour markers but is sloppy all over the dial. Then, when crown position 3 is selected, the hour hand is no longer synched with the minute hand. the hour hand is already past the markers before the minute hand gets to 12 o'clock.

When I notified the TD of these defects, here was his response:

"This movement is modified from cheap asian 2813 movement, same for all. Things like this happen due to the larger gap between gears. This is manufacture/design flaw of this modified movement. "

My takeaway from the statement is that I should accept the watch and deal with the movement's flaws.

Let me know what you think. Are the ones you guys got doing this or are they working like they should?

Video is here. If it asks for a password, it's CHS

https://vimeo.com/383028504

Hinclimincli
RiffRalf
 
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ssouthall6

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I knew there would be a catch somewhere :(


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Hinclimincli

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Guys who have gotten these already please take a look at this video. The jumping hour hand is not going to the hour markers but is sloppy all over the dial. Then, when crown position 3 is selected, the hour hand is no longer synched with the minute hand. the hour hand is already past the markers before the minute hand gets to 12 o'clock.

When I notified the TD of these defects, here was his response:

"This movement is modified from cheap asian 2813 movement, same for all. Things like this happen due to the larger gap between gears. This is manufacture/design flaw of this modified movement. "

My takeaway from the statement is that I should accept the watch and deal with the movement's flaws.

Let me know what you think. Are the ones you guys got doing this or are they working like they should?

Video is here. If it asks for a password, it's CHS

https://vimeo.com/383028504

Hinclimincli
RiffRalf

This is very interesting. Mine does something similar in terms that it doesn’t fully click when jumping hour, and indeed you can notice that there’s some play between moving the hour hand forwards or backwards. However, it stays on the hour market correctly. The one on the video might have skipped some tooth on the gears while moving the hour hand on position two, and then stayed slightly ahead when the gears engage back on position three. Quite annoying as probably you will have to try to disengage them and skip some tooth backwards. Not something you want to play with in such a flimsy calibre indeed.

I still think it’s a great option. Just think about it. It’s not particularly worse than the new “true” 3186 clones and it’s certainly better than the old 2836 CHS. And at half the price. On all these three options you still have the chance to transplant an ICHS movement and carry on. So you’re in pretty much in the same position, but with +$200 in your pocket.
 

KJ2020

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Here's a video of the other one. This one jumps cleanly, just not to the right place. With the minute hand at 12 o'clock, the hour hand should jump exactly to the hour markers. And when done, now the minute and hour hands are out of sync.

https://vimeo.com/383065305

Password is CHS
 
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tdx18

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Interesting, will look into it once mine arrives as well.

Here's approved QC:
 

KJ2020

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This is very interesting. Mine does something similar in terms that it doesn’t fully click when jumping hour, and indeed you can notice that there’s some play between moving the hour hand forwards or backwards. However, it stays on the hour marker correctly. The one on the video might have skipped some tooth on the gears while moving the hour hand on position two, and then stayed slightly ahead when the gears engage back on position three. Quite annoying as probably you will have to try to disengage them and skip some tooth backwards. Not something you want to play with in such a flimsy calibre indeed.

I still think it’s a great option. Just think about it. It’s not particularly worse than the new “true” 3186 clones and it’s certainly better than the old 2836 CHS. And at half the price. On all these three options you still have the chance to transplant an ICHS movement and carry on. So you’re in pretty much in the same position, but with +$200 in your pocket.

Yeah, I always had transplanting another movement in at the back of my mind. If you just order a caseset from a TD, $250 is the going rate. So i get a free dial in this deal. It's just disappointing to have to accept a watch with such a flawed movement, and to have no willingness or offer whatsoever from the TD to even try to get a better one.

Thanks for your comments bro.
 
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Jammydodger79

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Have dropped a msg to a TD asking for a price for the CHS version of the DG3804 movement.
Will share with the thread if/when I get it.

Can find plenty of the ICHS version available on the bay, but what I am having trouble finding is a good set of ICHS Explorer 2 hands.
Any pointers on where to pick those up would be appreciated.
 

KJ2020

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Have dropped a msg to a TD asking for a price for the CHS version of the DG3804 movement.
Will share with the thread if/when I get it.

Can find plenty of the ICHS version available on the bay, but what I am having trouble finding is a good set of ICHS Explorer 2 hands.
Any pointers on where to pick those up would be appreciated.

mrsullivan bought a replacement DG3804 CHS from a TD. It was about $90 IIRC. Personally I'm not going to fool with these movements any more at all if I can't fix these two.

I have fixed several ETA 2824 CHS timebomb movements to include restoring the quickset date feature. Have a look here if interested, my posts are toward the end of the thread maybe starting around page 7. I am looking into a way to mass produce the IDW support arm that is the key to making this repair viable. Right now I have to make each one by hand.

https://forum.replica-watch.info/fo.../304335-why-the-chs-gmt-movements-are-failing

Even a plain Jane GMT DG2813 ICHS with the extra GMT gear (non-Independent GMT hand, quickest date) movement would suffice for the two gold GMTs I am getting. They will need a new set of hands too because of the reverse order hand stack. Those movements are about $25, hands $18. It's just annoying to have to agree to buying defective movements but maybe I can apply a similar fix to them that I used on the 2824 CHS. I could even swap one of those movements in although getting hands for them is a problem too as they are unlike any other hands hole sizes.

Regarding your 216570 ICHS hands, I've looked extensively for those also. I think your only hope is from a TD. Or buying a cheap one like from DHGate and swapping in the whole movement and hands.
 

mrsullivan

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mrsullivan bought a replacement DG3804 CHS from a TD. It was about $90 IIRC. Personally I'm not going to fool with these movements any more at all if I can't fix these two.

I can only agree. The fact that TDs are selling a modified "exclusive", hardly repairable and somehow unpredictable movement for 90$ is a bit beyond a good price/reliability ratio IMO.
Don't misunderstand me, these watches are nice in many ways, but the potential problems with the movement won't easily be solved and if one need to change it, 90$ is more than twice the price usually seen for these basic movements when ICHS.

In my case I switch my 16710 to ICHS with new 15$ handset until a better option is on the market.

Envoyé de mon ELE-L29 en utilisant Tapatalk
 
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Jammydodger79

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mrsullivan and KJ2020

Thanks for the input.
Currently I'm hoping my CHS Explorer 2 is only suffering from debris or a mainspring issue.
It still adjusts fine, just doesn't run. Just gotta wait until my new opener shows up.

Should it be a dead movement, I'm leaning towards swapping in a2836-2.
Have seen a couple of handsets on the Bay, but nothing that's Explorer 2 friendly.

KJ2020's thread and info on the swap is a godsend.
The whole community here really does do a great job of supporting us Noobs!

​​​​​​​Thanks!
 

ssouthall6

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mrsullivan bought a replacement DG3804 CHS from a TD. It was about $90 IIRC. Personally I'm not going to fool with these movements any more at all if I can't fix these two.

I have fixed several ETA 2824 CHS timebomb movements to include restoring the quickset date feature. Have a look here if interested, my posts are toward the end of the thread maybe starting around page 7. I am looking into a way to mass produce the IDW support arm that is the key to making this repair viable. Right now I have to make each one by hand.

https://forum.replica-watch.info/fo.../304335-why-the-chs-gmt-movements-are-failing

Even a plain Jane GMT DG2813 ICHS with the extra GMT gear (non-Independent GMT hand, quickest date) movement would suffice for the two gold GMTs I am getting. They will need a new set of hands too because of the reverse order hand stack. Those movements are about $25, hands $18. It's just annoying to have to agree to buying defective movements but maybe I can apply a similar fix to them that I used on the 2824 CHS. I could even swap one of those movements in although getting hands for them is a problem too as they are unlike any other hands hole sizes.

Regarding your 216570 ICHS hands, I've looked extensively for those also. I think your only hope is from a TD. Or buying a cheap one like from DHGate and swapping in the whole movement and hands.

Ah...that old chestnut. I bought a $268 donor watch just for a caseback. Tomrep didn't bother picking it up from the parcel shop and now it's disappeared into the abyss and I'm left with an ugly daytona with no caseback and no other usable parts.

Do you ever get the feeling...just maybe fuck it and have a couple more gens :D


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Hinclimincli

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Ah...that old chestnut. I bought a $268 donor watch just for a caseback. Tomrep didn't bother picking it up from the parcel shop and now it's disappeared into the abyss and I'm left with an ugly daytona with no caseback and no other usable parts.

Do you ever get the feeling...just maybe fuck it and have a couple more gens :D


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yep. That's me every two years or so, haha. Then I look at a Tisell or Steinhart and think "god, this is ugly" and end up buying a Patek Calatrava from ZF or one of these BP GMTs. Been there, done that, ha.
 

shotgun

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235aa65b920d067fecace20733d993ef.plist
1df0849b4215d085ec6e900f0068dfd4.jpg


My modded 16710,correct slim caseback,now Watch is 12,4mm,reshape CG,change crown, lowered reahut,case and bracelet totaly reworked,my Custom insert,and This one have correct dial whit very nice crown at 12 and print!!!
Beautiful watch!
9acdae04dc64ecaa1528d9e762dbcdb8.plist
 

KJ2020

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Here is my DG3804 in action





Thanks for the video bro. I would be satisfied with one that worked that well. I did notice a couple things, which I'm sure you saw too.

1. It does not appear these movements will set a date backwards. I recently acquired a VR3185 (VRF) movement and these will set a date backwards with the jumping hour hand. Not a criticism, just an observation.

2. After you were done hour jumping, your hour and minute hands were out if sync. At ~2:05 in the video, you can see the hour hand is ahead of the hour markers until 10:00PM, then it catches up and then the hour hand lags behind starting at 11:00PM. At 12:30AM on the 13th the hour hand should be mid way between the 12 and the 1.

Some of this may be due to increased lag on the gears due to date change, but I'm interested in what your observations are in regular use after hour jumping and date changing. Are your hour and minute hands staying in sync for the most part?

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RiffRalf

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Thanks for the video bro. I would be satisfied with one that worked that well. I did notice a couple things, which I'm sure you saw too.

1. It does not appear these movements will set a date backwards. I recently acquired a VR3185 (VRF) movement and these will set a date backwards with the jumping hour hand. Not a criticism, just an observation.

2. After you were done hour jumping, your hour and minute hands were out if sync. At ~2:05 in the video, you can see the hour hand is ahead of the hour markers until 10:00PM, then it catches up and then the hour hand lags behind starting at 11:00PM. At 12:30AM on the 13th the hour hand should be mid way between the 12 and the 1.

Some of this may be due to increased lag on the gears due to date change, but I'm interested in what your observations are in regular use after hour jumping and date changing. Are your hour and minute hands staying in sync for the most part?

1. I did notice that, I actually mentioned it in my unveiling post.

2. I acrtually missed that, I had them line up OK at 1200h and 0600h a couple of times and it seemed in sync. I did notice that when moving the hour hand backward it does not jump as neatly and it just does not feel as good. And i did think it was a little out of synch after moving the hour hand backward. I will avoid moving the hour hand backward in the future.

On the wrist the hands are perfectly aligned.

AsI mentioned in my introductory post, I am not too fussed about this movement potentially conking out on me. The initial outlay is so modest that should it conk out I will simply buy a different one, perhaps like kennygconspiracy did one with the indestructible ICHS 2836 movement, or perhaps hold out for if or when ARF or VRF come out with a super clone CHNR. Or do a repair like mrsullivan, but at this time and place i lack the resources, in particular time, to build the necessary expertise. I never got beyond taking a movement out of a case and switching a dial and hands with my Vostoks from my prior Soviet/Russian watch collecting hobby.
I am just hoping that like Hinclimincli 's 16710 mine will hold up over time.
 
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KJ2020

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RiffRalf

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RiffRalf Thanks for your comments. Glad to see yours is holding up OK. I was able to switch my order to the BP ICHS watches for not a lot more (~$40 each), so I'm just going to do that. After two DGs with bad movements in QC, I've seen enough. These should be identical casesets and dials, just different movement and hands

https://www.intime05.co/rollie/3622-...let-a3186.html

https://www.intime05.co/rollie/3618-...let-a3186.html

Yeh I seem to remember that that was your initial intent anyway. the CHS lite movement powered ones seem to have gone up in price a little so it makes even more sense to get the ICHS. I kind of dig that green dialed 50th anniversary one myself ....
 
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