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BP Released whole line of DG3804 CHS GMTs - cheap!

Hinclimincli

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Do you like plot twists mate? I'll give you one, not from BP but also from the same dealer...

4_15_2161.jpg


And BOOOM!

4_15_2165.jpg
 

RiffRalf

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Funny thing, when BP put the new DG3804s on the 1675s they turned them into ICHS reps.

The one you linked is a 1675 which always had the GMT hand on the bottom. So 2836 1675s (and 6542s) are CHS for that model. However as you said, the rep has independent GMT hand when the gen did not. Also the 1675s did not have white gold hour surrounds like mine. First batch of the first 5 digit model 16750 had the same 1675 matte dial, then all 5 digit models got the white gold hour surrounds.

All DG3804s will have independent GMT hand. Nembo doesn't call them DG3804s but 23j. He always says independent GMT hand though. So your 1675 will actually be ICHS AND independent GMT hand. Double whammy haha!

This 2836 6542 is CHS, but has independent GMT hand. Plenty of twists and turns in the GMT world! There was a member here once actually looking for a way to disable the independence of the GMT hand on his 1675 rep. It can be done, but you can just set it that way too and not change it. D'oh.

The one I ordered from Nembo has the GMT hand on the bottom so is CHS for the 1675. And as you state I can of course use it as a proper 1675 by just using the bezel for tracking a different timezone. It so happens taht the timezones Iam tracking day to day from the US, New Zealand and Netherlands, are exactly 12 hours apart ...

The one I linked at PF has the hour hand on the bottom, CHS for the 16710, and this one has the hour hand independently operating from as far as I understand it
@hinchliminchli has been travellng across the Atlantic and setting his hour hand back and forth on his as mentioned in his post above-and quoted in mine a few posts up
If I get the one I linked with a Coke bezel it will be almost like your Coke gen, drilled lug holes which I totally dig, just not the gold hour surrounds ... and nobody is going to offer me $10k for it LOL
 
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KJ2020

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The one I ordered from Nembo has the GMT hand on the bottom so is CHS for the 1675. And as you state I can of course use it as a proper 1675 by just using the bezel for tracking a different timezone. It so happens taht the timezones Iam tracking day to day from the US, New Zealand and Netherlands, are exactly 12 hours apart ...

The one I linked at PF has the hour hand on the bottom, CHS for the 16710, and this one has the hour hand independently operating from as far as I understand it
@hinchliminchli has been travellng across the Atlantic and setting his hour hand back and forth on his as mentioned in his post above-and quoted in mine a few posts up
If I get the one I linked with a Coke bezel it will be almost like your Coke gen, drilled lug holes which I totally dig, just not the gold hour surrounds ... and nobody is going to offer me $10k for it LOL

Yes, I see now that one from Nembo has the old "non-CHS" (but CHS for 1675s) DG3804 movement in it. I almost grabbed that one but I'm currently working on 3 or 4 others and just couldn't do it. That's a really nice watch.

But that one and the one from PF are both 1675s not 16710s so aside from the dial being matte and the elongated triangle and no white gold surrounds, it's never going to be mistaken for a 16710. The CGs are different, and the biggest thing is it's a plexi crystal which is humongous by comparison to the sapphire.

AIQSc.jpg
 

WatchGuy>IT

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Hi guys I read all the 25 pages but i'm a bit confused.
Which version of the two tone root beer is better buing for quality/price?


thanks to everyone in advcance.
 

RiffRalf

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Hi guys I read all the 25 pages but i'm a bit confused.
Which version of the two tone root beer is better buing for quality/price?


thanks to everyone in advcance.

This is the one I ordered, CHS, low beat DG3804 movement, new release, unknown quantity, Hinclimincli has been beating his up and it seems to keep on ticking as per his message just above. Worth a try IMO.

This is the same watch with the well known 2638 ETA conversion with the ICHS. This will in all likelihood be the most reliable .... but it has the ICHS. Tried and trusted and your go-to if you don't want to take a chance on the DG3804 movement.

This is the same watch with the CHS "timebomb" movement. Buy at your own risk and handle with utmost care.

There is a GMF version also with the 2638 ETA movement -I own the GMF BLNR which has been running perfectly- and one with the "timebomb" CHS - I will not touch any of these. These are slightly higher end reps as these both have the 904L steel which is important should you want to try and dissolve your watch in harsh chemical solutions.
 
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KJ2020

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Nicely summarized riffraff

If you want to save a little money, pick from the first two BPs, they are worth having.

CHS DG3804 (correct hand stack, cheaper movement and not easily repaired)

ICHS 2836 (Incorrect hand stack, better movement and easily repaired)

The hand stack issue is over emphasized IMO. Nobody will know or care. You can't get near a gen with any of these so don't sweat the small stuff.
 

WatchGuy>IT

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Nicely summarized riffraff

If you want to save a little money, pick from the first two BPs, they are worth having.

CHS DG3804 (correct hand stack, cheaper movement and not easily repaired)

ICHS 2836 (Incorrect hand stack, better movement and easily repaired)

The hand stack issue is over emphasized IMO. Nobody will know or care. You can't get near a gen with any of these so don't sweat the small stuff.

thanks guys. I dont give a f*** about hand stack. plus my local watchsmith can repair a 2836 if there are any issues. cheers!!
 
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KJ2020

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pecupecu

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Just bought my TT RB. My guy in china said its the V2. Do we have any infos about an update? I've been buying from him for years, and he never gave me wrong info before.
 

KJ2020

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Just bought my TT RB. My guy in china said its the V2. Do we have any infos about an update? I've been buying from him for years, and he never gave me wrong info before.

Which model and handstack? Post a link. He may mean the "CHS LITE" but I've never seen any of these referred to as a V2.
 
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KJ2020

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Did you get your hands on one yet? Curious toward your findings

I and kennygconspiracy are stll waiting for our QC from Li

I haven't bro, I have too many other irons in the fire. I have some plans for a couple though.

Have you seen this?

https://forum.replica-watch.info/fo...rs/8387133-bp-gmt-16710-power-reserve-problem

Real shame to have to replace a movement for a mainspring. But the movement REALLY is a bitch to put back together. I would replace the mainspring if it were mine but I have literally taken 3 hours to get a plain DG2813 train bridge back on and working right. There are 5 pinions on those to line up and insert into jewels on the bridge and none of them sit up straight to do it, what a nightmare!
 

RiffRalf

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I haven't bro, I have too many other irons in the fire. I have some plans for a couple though.

Have you seen this?

https://forum.replica-watch.info/for...eserve-problem

Real shame to have to replace a movement for a mainspring. But the movement REALLY is a bitch to put back together. I would replace the mainspring if it were mine but I have literally taken 3 hours to get a plain DG2813 train bridge back on and working right. There are 5 pinions on those to line up and insert into jewels on the bridge and none of them sit up straight to do it, what a nightmare!

Yeh I saw that thread initially just never saved it.
Your observations are duly noted.
I would just replace the movement if I were OP on that thread. That I can do .... just about
 
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KJ2020

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Ok, so I ordered both 6542s from PC - the Albino Pepsi 2836, and the black dial with pink/red GMT letters, Pepsi and 2836. The wait begins...

The albino is a Coke not Pepsi, unfortunately. But I had actually thought about buying both, switching the inserts and flipping the black dial/pink text with Coke at a discount. Or maybe it would look rad that way too.
 

mrsullivan

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I would just replace the movement if I were OP on that thread. That I can do .... just about

Well, that's the plan, as there is nothing much to do.
Regarding winding the watch as suggested a few posts behind, I tried a 150 winds on the watch, before my fingers started to melt! And still, it was not fully wind... and the movement stopped about 30 mn later again anyway.

I just ordered a new identical movement to the dealer, and I'm good for a movement swap.

Even though it's a pity this problem, it does not change the fact that this BP 16710 is the best rep of this model IMO.

Envoyé de mon ELE-L29 en utilisant Tapatalk
 
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RiffRalf

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..., I tried a 150 winds on the watch, before my fingers started to melt! And still, it was not fully wind... and the movement stopped about 30 mn later again anyway.

I just ordered a new identical movement to the dealer, and I'm good for a movement swap.
...
150 winds should have done it LOL! I think you mainspring must have snapped all the way at the beginning otherwise you would have felt rhe tension on the spring suddenly go away when winding and hear rhe spring relaxing itself. I have a couple of Russian Vostok watches with broken mainsprings and it is a very simple fix on those, unlike these as per @KJ2020
 
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muiramas

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Do you like plot twists mate? I'll give you one, not from BP but also from the same dealer...

4_15_2161.jpg


And BOOOM!

4_15_2165.jpg

The white one is lovely, but the datweheel looks terrible - really thin. (+ a real one is worth about $50k).

May get it as a project.
 

KJ2020

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The white one is lovely, but the datweheel looks terrible - really thin. (+ a real one is worth about $50k).

May get it as a project.

Don't forget they put a Coke insert on the albino. D'oh