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BP Released whole line of DG3804 CHS GMTs - cheap!

RiffRalf

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<clink> :drinks_cheers:
Went with the the same but with the DG3804 CHS.
you're right about the full gold ones.
I kinda dig the full gold 50th birthday one with the green dial myself. But they are a bit harder to pull off.
 

Hinclimincli

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Just chiming in. This fella has been to Buenos Aires, Bogota and Mexico City in the last month, all back and forth from Europe and I have been changing the hour hand several times just to test it in normal conditions. Still working and no signs of anything going wrong:
 

thrillofhunt

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The biggest issue with the pepsi is the bezel insert. The font is wrong, the "dots" are too big compared to gen.

I didnt realise it but my brother who owns the gen and looks at it everyday, immediately pointed out to me when I showed him a picture of my watch. He said "everything looks good but the bezel looks wierd"

I have ordered an aftermarket one to see if it is better. If not, will order a gen but I'm not sure if it will fit, anyone has any ideas?
 

Hinclimincli

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The biggest issue with the pepsi is the bezel insert. The font is wrong, the "dots" are too big compared to gen.

I didnt realise it but my brother who owns the gen and looks at it everyday, immediately pointed out to me when I showed him a picture of my watch. He said "everything looks good but the bezel looks wierd"

I have ordered an aftermarket one to see if it is better. If not, will order a gen but I'm not sure if it will fit, anyone has any ideas?

Yep, but it's a $239 watch. I'm most certainly not spending money in a genuine insert.
 

KJ2020

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Every BP I've had or worked on has a smaller outer diameter size than gen. BP is 37.4mm, gen is ~37.65mm. Inserts can be sanded down but not on a gen.

Aftermarket aluminum inserts come both ways plus a few more. The 4 digit ones are also 37.4mm outer but smaller inner too. So you have to be careful what you buy if you go that route.
 
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Hinclimincli

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That's good to hear having just paid for my TT CHNR

Nice!

Needless to say, the hour hand has been jumping BACK and forth, several times, contrary to what is recommended on the 2836 CHS movements. Still going fine (loses around 10s a day, but it's been like that since day one).
 

RiffRalf

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Nice!

Needless to say, the hour hand has been jumping BACK and forth, several times, contrary to what is recommended on the 2836 CHS movements. Still going fine (loses around 10s a day, but it's been like that since day one).

That's terrific, 10s a day, who cares. I grew up in a world with mechanical watches, we always set our watches to the "peep peep peep" of the radio hourly newscast signals whenever it was necessary and wherever a radio was playing.
I honestly think I may give all these expensive GMTIIs a miss and grab a couple more of these-if mine performs the same way.
 

Neon

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Here’s my BP 16710 CHS 3804. I’m happy with the bezel insert. The bezel is really hard to turn though. Also, the bracelet feels pretty cheap to me. But I know some have said that’s normal with the gen. Should the cyclops on a 16710 have AR?
 

stufuse

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Here’s my BP 16710 CHS 3804. I’m happy with the bezel insert. The bezel is really hard to turn though. Also, the bracelet feels pretty cheap to me. But I know some have said that’s normal with the gen. Should the cyclops on a 16710 have AR?

Shouldn’t have AR, the bracelet is hollow link and will feel light and feel flimsy, (if you’re used to ceramic subs) ,that said those bp bracelets are pretty cheap in feel. I swapped out the bracelet on my BPSD for a TC and the quality difference was very apparent


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

KJ2020

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Neon;n8372993[IMG type="full" said:
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191126/e33283556720110af5476a5f21bb4aa5.jpg[/IMG]
Here’s my BP 16710 CHS 3804. I’m happy with the bezel insert. The bezel is really hard to turn though. Also, the bracelet feels pretty cheap to me. But I know some have said that’s normal with the gen. Should the cyclops on a 16710 have AR?


The gen 16710 crystal has no AR at all. Rep crystals are hit or miss whether there's AR with little regard for authenticity. At best yours might have 1xAR on the cyclops. If you get near an overhead light you should be able to see 2 reflections on the cyclops. If one of them is a different color (blue, green, purple) you have 1xAR.

With most 5 digit less expensive reps you will have to work on the bracelet. Some sanding, particularly on the clasp sharp edges, some brushing and polishing. An ultrasonic bath is always my first and last step. So much dirt and grime ends up in the cleaner tray it's scary. Might try WD-40 or baby oil too.

Ultrasonic bath is the best thing for the bezel also but that requires taking the movement out. If no ultrasonic, running it under hot water while rotating it will free up most of the dirt and grime. Obviously also with the movement out.

You got the good dial! Maybe BP has exhausted stock of the frogfoot coronet dials. Either that or you got a leftover old stock dial. Either way it's a good one, so congrats. The frogfoot coronet dials were never used on GMTs, the only gen that ever had them was the DSSD MK1 dial. And the fist couple of versions of the 1655 Steve McQueen Explorer II. Those coronets were truly hideous IMO. Look at the MK 2 and 3, ewww.

Thrasher

A515k.jpg
 
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Neon

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Shouldn’t have AR, the bracelet is hollow link and will feel light and feel flimsy, (if you’re used to ceramic subs) ,that said those bp bracelets are pretty cheap in feel. I swapped out the bracelet on my BPSD for a TC and the quality difference was very apparent


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The gen 16710 crystal has no AR at all. Rep crystals are hit or miss whether there's AR with little regard for authenticity. At best yours might have 1xAR on the cyclops. If you get near an overhead light you should be able to see 2 reflections on the cyclops. If one of them is a different color (blue, green, purple) you have 1xAR.

With most 5 digit less expensive reps you will have to work on the bracelet. Some sanding, particularly on the clasp sharp edges, some brushing and polishing. An ultrasonic bath is always my first and last step. So much dirt and grime ends up in the cleaner tray it's scary. Might try WD-40 or baby oil too.

Ultrasonic bath is the best thing for the bezel also but that requires taking the movement out. If no ultrasonic, running it under hot water while rotating it will free up most of the dirt and grime. Obviously also with the movement out.

You got the good dial! Maybe BP has exhausted stock of the frogfoot coronet dials. Either that or you got a leftover old stock dial. Either way it's a good one, so congrats. The frogfoot coronet dials were never used on GMTs, the only gen that ever had them was the DSSD MK1 dial. And the fist couple of versions of the 1655 Steve McQueen Explorer II. Those coronets were truly hideous IMO. Look at the MK 2 and 3, ewww.

A515k.jpg

Most of my Rolex bracelets are recent gens, so this BP one feeling cheap might just be me not being used to the bracelets from 10-20 years ago. They made the 16710 till 2008 right? I think this should be solid end links, no?

I always wash/scrub and baby oil my rep bracelets. Forgot about ultrasonic though! So will do that right away. I never do the case though because I’m not comfortable taking movements out. Never sanded, but will try that if any part is sharp. I have a solid feeling rep bracelet from a Milgauss. Should that fit?

Looks to me like the cyclops has zero AR coating. Fine with me if that’s correct for a 16710. Just wasn’t sure, and thought maybe I needed a new crystal if that were true.

Are there any simple fixes to make the bezel turn easier? Just feels so tight!

Didn’t even know there were good and bad dials, but glad it’s a good one! I will search frogfoot so I can see the difference. I saw people were having a hard time getting the non-engraved rehaut so glad I don’t have to do that mod.

Last question, with this 3804/2813, any special way I should be setting the time/date/gmt? I see instructions for the timebomb movements, but is this one safe to just set normally/anytime?
 

Hinclimincli

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Here’s my BP 16710 CHS 3804. I’m happy with the bezel insert. The bezel is really hard to turn though. Also, the bracelet feels pretty cheap to me. But I know some have said that’s normal with the gen. Should the cyclops on a 16710 have AR?

Congratulations mate, very nice piece indeed! That's the exact same model I have and I love it. Might not even buy a ceramic, either BP lite or the more expensive (and untested too) ARF/VRF, as I'm very happy with mine.

Although my winder has two slots and only makes sense to have the GMTs with CHS there. So technically I'm down one.
​​
 
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RiffRalf

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..... I will search frogfoot so I can see the difference. I saw people were having a hard time getting the non-engraved rehaut so glad I don’t have to do that mod.
Last question, with this 3804/2813, any special way I should be setting the time/date/gmt? I see instructions for the timebomb movements, but is this one safe to just set normally/anytime?

The dials that KJ2020 shows in his link show a kind of flat footed Rolex crown at the MK2 and MK3 explorer dial, when compared to the more elongated crowns of the other ones. My guess is that is what known as the "frog foot." One of those things that once you see it cannot be unseen anymore even if you never noticed it yourself in the first place.

Hinclimincli has been travelling back and forth with his and he has been moving the hour hand around back and forth and the watch keeps going. So that is encouraging.

I have a TT CHNR on order with the DG3804 CHS movement. I also ordered Nemboscorner latest offering of a 1675 with the -for that watch- CHS with the GMT hand the lowest. Drilled lug holes, clinky bracelet, for that vintage vibe! - you need a repgeek log in to see it.

KJ2020 how did your gen Coke end up with a - AFAIK- GMT 1 dial?
 

lfarcos

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Here’s my BP 16710 CHS 3804. I’m happy with the bezel insert. The bezel is really hard to turn though. Also, the bracelet feels pretty cheap to me. But I know some have said that’s normal with the gen. Should the cyclops on a 16710 have AR?

Congrats!

Could you attach the TD link please?

Your unit looks amazing!
 

KJ2020

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KJ2020 how did your gen Coke end up with a - AFAIK- GMT 1 dial?

That's the way it came bro. It's a first year model (1989) and the 16700 had just come out too. Mine has the 3185 movement though, as you can see by the independent GMT hand. It also has a 93250 bracelet and clasp, which was made for the Sub. So it got a mix of parts. It had a defective lume minute hand on delivery so I sent it to Rolex RSC NY and I thought they would have put the GMT II dial on it but they didn't. I just let it go then and never got it changed. So it's a bit of a unicorn I suppose, though I've seen a few others like it.
 
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RiffRalf

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That's the way it came bro. It's a first year model (1989) and the 16700 had just come out too. Mine has the 3185 movement though, as you can see by the independent GMT hand. It also has a 93250 bracelet and clasp, which was made for the Sub. So it got a mix of parts. It had a defective lume minute hand on delivery so I sent it to Rolex RSC NY and I thought they would have put the GMT II dial on it but they didn't. I just let it go then and never got it changed. So it's a bit of a unicorn I suppose, though I've seen a few others like it.

That's great, that really should make it more desirable, and worth quite a bit more on the market I would imagine. Rare transitional models often are prized much higher than the more common ones, similar to the classic car world

Does that make this one with the new DG3804 an early GMTII rep as well? It has the hour hand on the bottom, independent hour hand, but the GMT1 dial like yours. If fact I think if they put a Coke bezel insert on it it would be a dead ringer for yours ....

The one I ordered from Nembo has the DG3804 with the GMT hand on the bottom so it is correct hand stack for a 1675 butt it has an indepedent GMT hand AFAIK
 
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KJ2020

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That's great, that really should make it more desirable, and worth quite a bit more on the market I would imagine. Rare transitional models often are prized much higher than the more common ones, similar to the classic car world

Does that make this one with the new DG3804 an early GMTII rep as well? It has the hour hand on the bottom, independent hour hand, but the GMT1 dial like yours. If fact I think if they put a Coke bezel insert on it it would be a dead ringer for yours ....

The one I ordered from Nembo has the DG3804 with the GMT hand on the bottom so it is correct hand stack for a 1675 butt it has an indepedent GMT hand AFAIK

Funny thing, when BP put the new DG3804s on the 1675s they turned them into ICHS reps.

The one you linked is a 1675 which always had the GMT hand on the bottom. So 2836 1675s (and 6542s) are CHS for that model. However as you said, the rep has independent GMT hand when the gen did not. Also the 1675s did not have white gold hour surrounds like mine. First batch of the first 5 digit model 16750 had the same 1675 matte dial, then all 5 digit models got the white gold hour surrounds.

All DG3804s will have independent GMT hand. Nembo doesn't call them DG3804s but 23j. He always says independent GMT hand though. So your 1675 will actually be ICHS AND independent GMT hand. Double whammy haha!

This 2836 6542 is CHS, but has independent GMT hand. Plenty of twists and turns in the GMT world! There was a member here once actually looking for a way to disable the independence of the GMT hand on his 1675 rep. It can be done, but you can just set it that way too and not change it. D'oh.

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