BP Factory Rolex 16710 GMT Full Review VS Gen

[Thrasher]

I'm reading this for the Third time and going to take notes on what will fit and what won't and why , If EVERYONE looks into the BP SEA DWELLER threads they will see what's possible when you have $$$ to spend on gen parts/Gen spec parts and a Brillant machinist and watch smith like ado213 Adrian on your side.

BP SEA DWELLER THREADS:
https://forum.replica-watch.info/forum/rolex-tudor-replicas/181322-bp-sd-with-generic-xtal
https://forum.replica-watch.info/fo...139871-bp-seadweller-best-sd-available-period

Thank You KJ2020

Standby buddy I think I will be searching for a BP 16710 and LF 16710 V1 or in the worst case V2. I'm pretty sure Adrian can make a whole new rehaut.

KJ2020 I did notice your Bezel insert is much nicer than the Pepsi insert on the intime watch This and the Dial really catch my eye

 

[barth]

Hello gents,

Just received a 16710 from Nembo.

As shared previously in this thread, I agree it is a good option at a competitive price.

However it obviously has some flaws, and I’m debating whether I should start a project or just enjoy it for what it is.

Upgrades I would contemplate:
- Reshape the case and especially the lugs (which are pretty far from gen)
- change the case back which artificially adds thickness as seen in OP
- change the crown which is not very good, engraving wise
- change the insert (maybe) as Colors and fonts a little off in my opinion
- change movement to high beat, as it should be for this model (I don’t mind ICHS or crown height)

I wouldn’t touch the dial, as I think this one is ok (especially the coronet that looks pretty good and a major reason I jumped on this sample); I wouldn’t change the crystal either except maybe realign cyclops.

What do you guys think ?

A few pics for good measure

 

[Neon]

Hello gents,

Just received a 16710 from Nembo.

As shared previously in this thread, I agree it is a good option at a competitive price.

However it obviously has some flaws, and I’m debating whether I should start a project or just enjoy it for what it is.

Upgrades I would contemplate:
- Reshape the case and especially the lugs (which are pretty far from gen)
- change the case back which artificially adds thickness as seen in OP
- change the crown which is not very good, engraving wise
- change the insert (maybe) as Colors and fonts a little off in my opinion
- change movement to high beat, as it should be for this model (I don’t mind ICHS or crown height)

I wouldn’t touch the dial, as I think this one is ok (especially the coronet that looks pretty good and a major reason I jumped on this sample); I wouldn’t change the crystal either except maybe realign cyclops.

What do you guys think ?

A few pics for good measure

Looks good and the same as the piece I just got. (Pics in the BP CHS GMT thread.) I’m not as picky as you, so don’t think it needs that giant project, but if you have the skills, why not?

Did your cyclops need alignment? Mine is dead on I think.

How does your bezel turn? Mine is so stiff. Hope it loosens up.

 

[KJ2020]

Hello gents,

Just received a 16710 from Nembo.

As shared previously in this thread, I agree it is a good option at a competitive price.

However it obviously has some flaws, and I’m debating whether I should start a project or just enjoy it for what it is.

Upgrades I would contemplate:
- Reshape the case and especially the lugs (which are pretty far from gen)
- change the case back which artificially adds thickness as seen in OP
- change the crown which is not very good, engraving wise
- change the insert (maybe) as Colors and fonts a little off in my opinion
- change movement to high beat, as it should be for this model (I don’t mind ICHS or crown height)

Slimmer caseback is a must IMO
Remember the insert is not gen spec, so pay attention if you buy another one. Many vendors are wrong when they advertise what models their inserts fit. BP inserts are actually pretty good, a great many aftermarket ones mess up the 2's, to the point of looking worse overall.

BP insert 30.6mm/37.4mm
Gen, many aftermarket 30.6mm/37.65mm

You can find aftermarket inserts 30.7/37.5, AM Vostok's fit nearly perfectly (no sanding) for example.

Other Asian inserts are 37.4 OD. Many EU vendors resell these on ebay.uk and ebay.it etc.at about a 2x or more upcharge. Also check ali express, plenty of options.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Aluminium-...hash=item5207f3fa6f:m:mf7uebo8OQjuIHtMcB1FL_A

Most 5 digit aftermarket inserts will be too large OD and require sanding which may eat into the markers depending on their position.

Yuki, raffles, tiger concepts also good places to look. I probably have 30 inserts currently not in a bezel, lol.

 

[domsdaddy123]

KJ2020 ..I know im late to this thread party, just wanted to say you are one of the finest reviewers of all time.

Unbelieveably good review. As god as it gets. K woud pay good money to read your reviews.

Huge thank you and WOW!

 

[barth]

Looks good and the same as the piece I just got. (Pics in the BP CHS GMT thread.) I’m not as picky as you, so don’t think it needs that giant project, but if you have the skills, why not?

Did your cyclops need alignment? Mine is dead on I think.

How does your bezel turn? Mine is so stiff. Hope it loosens up.

I think the cyclops are slightly crooked but really not too bad.

As for the bezel, mine is the contrary: almost a little loose !

In any case: enjoy your new watch

 

[barth]

Slimmer caseback is a must IMO
Remember the insert is not gen spec, so pay attention if you buy another one. Many vendors are wrong when they advertise what models their inserts fit. BP inserts are actually pretty good, a great many aftermarket ones mess up the 2's, to the point of looking worse overall.

BP insert 30.6mm/37.4mm
Gen, many aftermarket 30.6mm/37.65mm

You can find aftermarket inserts 30.7/37.5, AM Vostok's fit nearly perfectly (no sanding) for example.

Other Asian inserts are 37.4 OD. Many EU vendors resell these on ebay.uk and ebay.it etc.at about a 2x or more upcharge. Also check ali express, plenty of options.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Aluminium-...hash=item5207f3fa6f:m:mf7uebo8OQjuIHtMcB1FL_A

Most 5 digit aftermarket inserts will be too large OD and require sanding which may eat into the markers depending on their position.

Yuki, raffles, tiger concepts also good places to look. I probably have 30 inserts currently not in a bezel, lol.

Thanks a lot for the answer, and the great review & thread.

Do you know where to get the slimmer caseback please ?

Also I wonder if the rehaut needs shaving or not. Maybe a tiny bit, but not sure the gains will be worth it.

I think I will park the insert subject for now as it’s not so bad either. Thank you for the information.

 

[Neon]

Slimmer caseback is a must IMO

How did they mess this up? Just reusing a case back from another watch?

Do you think this is noticeable on the wrist?

 

[KJ2020]

How did they mess this up? Just reusing a case back from another watch?

Do you think this is noticeable on the wrist?

Who knows bro, you would think it would cost less to procure a thinner one. But even the newest samples still have it so maybe BP gets a special price from a certain supplier. It's not only thicker, but also has an extra stairstep profile that sits outside the case instead of recessing into it like on the gen. The worst part is the movement doesn't need it, there's just empty space in there!

As far as noticeable, it uneccesarily makes the watch sit up off your wrist at a ridiculous height compared to gen. I couldn't stand it. It may not bother everyone though.

Before

After

Compare

 

[Neon]

As far as noticeable, it uneccesarily makes the watch sit up off your wrist at a ridiculous height compared to gen. I couldn't stand it. It may not bother everyone though.

I was worried about it before I ordered, didn’t care when I got it, but now looks awful now that you bring it up! Not the end of the world. If I want a replacement, can a TD source one? And if so, which rep’s caseback should I ask for? Or is some non rep aftermarket one better?

 

[KJ2020]

I was worried about it before I ordered, didn’t care when I got it, but now looks awful now that you bring it up! Not the end of the world. If I want a replacement, can a TD source one? And if so, which rep’s caseback should I ask for? Or is some non rep aftermarket one better?

A TD will not source a caseback for you, and the gen does not fit. So aftermarket gen casebacks which are very easy to source are off the table.

I have found two suitable replacements. One came from a DHGate 5 digit Yachti, the other from a 4 digit Sub. The 5513 Sub caseback is not authentic to model but that is if no consequence to me, it's skinny mini and shiny heinie lol.

Another member Hinclimincli swapped one in from a Tiger Concepts case IIRC.

 

[Hinclimincli]

A TD will not source a caseback for you, and the gen does not fit.

Another member Hinclimincli swapped one in from a Tiger Concepts case IIRC.

Both statements are correct, yes. I tried with my Ginault caseback, which I think it's 100% gen spec, and didn't fit. But used the one from a Tiger Concept GMT and works perfectly. Pretty cheap too.

barth I had to realign bezel insert and cyclops as they were both a bit crooked. I also took the opportunity to change the tube and crown to a Raffles set I had as the original one was quite difficult to screw in.

Still, I really like this CHS lite version. As I mentioned in the other thread, I've been flying back and forth the Atlantic with it and changed times many times , clockwise and counterclockwise, and still works perfectly.

 

[Neon]

A TD will not source a caseback for you, and the gen does not fit. So aftermarket gen casebacks which are very easy to source are off the table.

I have found two suitable replacements. One came from a DHGate 5 digit Yachti, the other from a 4 digit Sub. The 5513 Sub caseback is not authentic to model but that is if no consequence to me, it's skinny mini and shiny heinie lol.

Another member Hinclimincli swapped one in from a Tiger Concepts case IIRC.

Both statements are correct, yes. I tried with my Ginault caseback, which I think it's 100% gen spec, and didn't fit. But used the one from a Tiger Concept GMT and works perfectly. Pretty cheap too.

barth I had to realign bezel insert and cyclops as they were both a bit crooked. I also took the opportunity to change the tube and crown to a Raffles set I had as the original one was quite difficult to screw in.

Still, I really like this CHS lite version. As I mentioned in the other thread, I've been flying back and forth the Atlantic with it and changed times many times , clockwise and counterclockwise, and still works perfectly.

Damn. So far not annoyed enough to buy a whole watch I don’t want just for it. Hopefully I’ll stop staring at how it sits on my wrist.

Although buying a watch for the caseback would be cheaper than buying a gen 16710 which I’m looking at now that I see how nice the rep is on the wrist.

 

[mnkoshka]

KJ2020 damn it! pretty annoying it doesn’t take gen caseback. I have a gen 16570 caseback which I can’t use now lol. So if there is extra space in the case I may also machine that step down on the back and re-machine the o-ring groove if it comprises the groove depth. Still yet to receive QC pics I can’t wait to try this project out

 

[barth]

Hey guys,

I don't think this has been discussed here yet: Yuki has a new 16710 dial/hands offering for 2836 movements, here: http://www.yukiwatch.net/GMT-Master-II-16710-ETA-dial-p148234110

According to KJ2020 's measurements (thanks !) size is fine and would fit the BP; according to the crown design and overall look, this would allow to replicate a early 2000's dial.

What do you think about it ? I'm planning to fit a new 2836 movement to mine, so I might swap them in at this time.

 

[mnkoshka]

Had some success machining this older 16710 case which originally had the wire retainer bezel, machined/ removed wire assembly, Machined the rehaut aperture and Faced that step off the back of the case, had to also machine a new o/ring groove. Now the case is the right width and takes gen assembly. Hopefully I can do this with the BP case also

 

[mrsullivan]

Hey guys,

I don't think this has been discussed here yet: Yuki has a new 16710 dial/hands offering for 2836 movements, here: http://www.yukiwatch.net/GMT-Master-II-16710-ETA-dial-p148234110

According to KJ2020 's measurements (thanks !) size is fine and would fit the BP; according to the crown design and overall look, this would allow to replicate a early 2000's dial.

What do you think about it ? I'm planning to fit a new 2836 movement to mine, so I might swap them in at this time.

Following

Envoyé de mon ELE-L29 en utilisant Tapatalk

 

[KJ2020]

Had some success machining this older 16710 case

Awesome work my friend. Lathe equipment and skills are so valuable and useful in this hobby. Metal sculpture magnifique!

 

[mnkoshka]

Awesome work my friend. Lathe equipment and skills are so valuable and useful in this hobby. Metal sculpture magnifique!

Thanks bro hopefully all the parts fit when I receive them lol I’ll post final results here also, fingers crossed

 

[KJ2020]

Hey guys,

I don't think this has been discussed here yet: Yuki has a new 16710 dial/hands offering for 2836 movements, here: http://www.yukiwatch.net/GMT-Master-...ial-p148234110

According to KJ2020 's measurements (thanks !) size is fine and would fit the BP; according to the crown design and overall look, this would allow to replicate a early 2000's dial.

What do you think about it ? I'm planning to fit a new 2836 movement to mine, so I might swap them in at this time.

I did mention this previously in the thread but worth revisiting. That Yuki dial is quite nice and I considered it but as with all Yuki's ETA dials the date window is in the ETA position, not the Rolex position.

Rolex date windows are 6.8mm from dial center to left edge of the window. ETA windows are 7.8mm. This is due to the movements' native position of the datewheel, which makes sense.

There is an extra step involved in making an ETA rep dial more gen-like, a datewheel overlay (DWO) must be sourced and added on to move the numbers 1mm left. Much of the time rep factories do this, other times on less expensive reps they do not. It isn't always a dealbreaker, many reps look damn nice even with a date window that isn't gen-spec. There is no DWO on these, so it is faster and cheaper to produce.

Here's a couple examples

It's not a tremendously obvious deviance, but ultimately I decided it wasn't worth $100 + for a dial that would move you another step AWAY from gen. You would also have to source and replace the crystal as the cyclops position would be wrong.

Once you know about this ETA window issue, it becomes easier to spot them. It's still difficult to tell a 1mm shift sometimes though, so I use the hour markers as a guide. If the window 'lines up" with an imaginary circle running through all the hour markers, it's an ETA window. Many vendors sell these, so be careful what you buy. Raffles doesn't call them ETA dials, he just says "with DWO". This doesn't mean you get a DWO with the dial either, lol.