ARF silently released new 16610LN's and 16610LV's

[m5smg2]

Could well be a RAF.

Maybe just my eyes but pearl looks to be higher than the normal ARF insert, has the pointier RAF / Sillan crown guards, common RAF tube gap. Plus how many TDs have confused the two factories?

And the wrong 20 on bezel

 

[vm4sx]

Which Trusted Dealer sold you this ARF?

It's from Lili of 1688Time

 

[vm4sx]

And the wrong 20 on bezel

I've opened the caseback and movement looked like VR3135, but bezel action is also weird IMO.

 

[vm4sx]

Movement:



Bezel action:

https://www.reddit.com/r/RepTime/s/w6vy2xyNbJ

 

[vm4sx]

 

[m5smg2]

@vm4sx the bezel action is not great on these but it can be improved with some attention to tension ring and better click spring. See previous pages on this thread for other members’ input.

Note that the vintage Subs is normal to have just a little gap to the case; yours is more noticeable. For the crown gap (assuming it’s screwed in fully, and the stem “O” ring has not shifted and caught on the thread) I believe a watchmaker can remove and refit the tube a couple of grooves to be closer to the case.

Likewise the 6:00 marker can be aligned by a watch smith or you can try yourself by again following members’ input here pages back. Hope this helps..

 

[Karbon74]

There are holes in the dial, and there are taps on the back of the hour maker. This is not complicated

Dont use glue, use Hypo Cement like I wrote above.

Caseback opener, a watch screwdriver, and a steady hand. If it doesn’t work out, send it to a watchmaker. Let’s not make this into a bigger ”operation“ then it is.

It’s not difficult indeed.

But the specific context of the poster is.
Glueing a marker, with the dial and hands in place, with no mvt holder, no tweezers, no loupe, no needle for precision glue, no hypocement, no Rodico, no screwdrivers, no air blower, no finger cots, no rubber ball….
And first time opening a mecanical watch

He probably does not even know where is the stem release

The guy should practice his ability to glue one grain of rice on a specific spot on a vinyl surface

If he can do that, absolutely

 

[vm4sx]

@vm4sx the bezel action is not great on these but it can be improved with some attention to tension ring and better click spring. See previous pages on this thread for other members’ input.

Note that the vintage Subs is normal to have just a little gap to the case; yours is more noticeable. For the crown gap (assuming it’s screwed in fully, and the stem “O” ring has not shifted and caught on the thread) I believe a watchmaker can remove and refit the tube a couple of grooves to be closer to the case.

Likewise the 6:00 marker can be aligned by a watch smith or you can try yourself by again following members’ input here pages back. Hope this helps..

What do you think about the O ring position?

 

[Reaps]

It's from Lili of 1688Time

That isn't a TD, that's a non TD. Nothing we can do for you. Again new members and redditors use the TD term for every dealer under the sun but the term TD refers to dealers backed by the forum and that moderators can step in to help.

 

[vm4sx]

That isn't a TD, that's a non TD. Nothing we can do for you. Again new members and redditors use the TD term for every dealer under the sun but the term TD refers to dealers backed by the forum and that moderators can step in to help.

I understand that. I never said she was a TD.

 

[Karbon74]

What do you think about the O ring position?

I feel this tube is super weird

 

[Reaps]

I understand that. I never said she was a TD.

Knowing Lili she wouldn't do anything for you anyways or take it back.

Your best bet is to find a watch maker or sell it at a loss and rebuy.

 

[m5smg2]

What do you think about the O ring position?

Not that one. There is another O ring inside the crown that seats against the tube tip..

But more likely it’s the tube position sticking out. Sorry

 

[VintageSubEnjoyer]

Not that one. There is another O ring inside the crown that seats against the tube tip..

Still needs to be countersunk in the case, you can see the taper on the tube towards the o-ring.

 

[vm4sx]

Knowing Lili she wouldn't do anything for you anyways or take it back.

Your best bet is to find a watch maker or sell it at a loss and rebuy.

I thank you for your advice and concern, but I don't have high expectations for her.

For me there is no problem in trying to solve this myself, that is the reason why I looked for this thread, I imagined that other people have gone through similar situations or knew how to solve it, since many here have a lot of knowledge about watchmaking.

Anyway, I contacted her to see if she can help me with anything, and I will also deal with the 1688Time mods if I find it necessary.

 

[vm4sx]

But more likely it’s the tube position sticking out. Sorry

Would that mean it is unsolvable by a watchmaker?

 

[m5smg2]

Would that mean it is unsolvable by a watchmaker?

Find an independent watchmaker. It can be reinstalled properly

 

[vm4sx]

I changed the angle the spring makes to touch the bezel several times and I found one that I liked.



But this position in which the spring is located seems different from the other 16610 arf that I have seen, what do you think?

 

[m5smg2]

I changed the angle the spring makes to touch the bezel several times and I found one that I liked.



But this position in which the spring is located seems different from the other 16610 arf that I have seen, what do you think?

Nice. The spring position can be located all around. It depends on the position the metal crystal ring was installed. Yours is 9:00, that’s ok.

 

[vm4sx]

Have any of you guys here tried to age the ARF 16610LN dial?

I was thinking to put it a bit in the oven, but I'm a little bit worried.